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A call to all JVC users wishing to use the VIP 3D Theatre device - Page 6

post #151 of 188
6/14/11 at 2:08pm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zombie10k View Post

I had an RS40, RS50 and Acer 5360 on my 142" 16:9 2.8HP screen. the RS40 is brighter than the RS50, but as long as the projector is centered on the screen (about 6 inches above my eye level) the 3D output is quite pleasing overall (when the lamp is new)

It's dimmed 40% in about 300 hours but still fine on the 2.8HP. The Acer is putting out a measured 800 lumens in 3D mode and 1300 lumens with a rough D65 calibration which smokes the 40/50 with 3D mode lumens and this large screen.

The issue with the 5360 is that it's noticeable softer than the JVC's, especially on a screen this size. The 720P along with a cheap plastic lens doesn't help.

The Acer advantage is Brightness and zero ghosting from the DLP. The JVC advantage is much sharper image, better blacks and contrast, etc. The downside of the JVC is the quickly dimming lamp and ghosting is easily noticeable for me in some movies compared to the ghost free image of the Acer.

The ideal 3D setup for me would be the Sharp 17k for just 3D. 1080P and the ghost free images. Also the JVC needs a long warm-up time to watch 3D, at least 30 minutes before the ghosting is reduced. The Acer I can watch 3D the instant it's turned on.

plenty of pros / cons for each of these projectors.

My projector is currently about a foot over the viewing position on a shelf, and actually that is going to get better, once I revamp the HT room this Fall, I will ceiling mount it, and get a mount that lets me go as low as I want.

Also if your bulb dimmed that much in 300 hours, call JVC, and they should replace your bulb. They are not supposed to dim that much, JVC has been on top of it, even sending new bulbs when the projectors are past the warranty time. Not all the bulbs dim that much.
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post #152 of 188
6/14/11 at 2:43pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by plissken99 View Post

My projector is currently about a foot over the viewing position on a shelf, and actually that is going to get better, once I revamp the HT room this Fall, I will ceiling mount it, and get a mount that lets me go as low as I want.

Also if your bulb dimmed that much in 300 hours, call JVC, and they should replace your bulb. They are not supposed to dim that much, JVC has been on top of it, even sending new bulbs when the projectors are past the warranty time. Not all the bulbs dim that much.


My last RS1 bulb dimmed 40% in 200 hours but then was stable up to 1200 hours. Although down over 50% by then it still looked good but 3D was way to dim. So I am happy I am getting the Acer now for 3D. Keep my RS1 for 2D viewing. My first bulb was only down 18% at 350 hours. I hope my new bulb I just started using will be more like my first bulb. Once over 90 days old nothing you can do. I don't put 300 hours on a bulb in 90 days. Took me 1.5 years to put 1200 hours on my last bulb and usage goes in spirts. In the 3.5 years since I got my RS1 I only put 2300 hours max on it. I dont use it every day. Weekends a movie or two and maybe a couple times during the week.
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post #153 of 188
6/14/11 at 5:30pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ronomy View Post

My last RS1 bulb dimmed 40% in 200 hours but then was stable up to 1200 hours. Although down over 50% by then it still looked good but 3D was way to dim. So I am happy I am getting the Acer now for 3D. Keep my RS1 for 2D viewing. My first bulb was only down 18% at 350 hours. I hope my new bulb I just started using will be more like my first bulb. Once over 90 days old nothing you can do. I don't put 300 hours on a bulb in 90 days. Took me 1.5 years to put 1200 hours on my last bulb and usage goes in spirts. In the 3.5 years since I got my RS1 I only put 2300 hours max on it. I dont use it every day. Weekends a movie or two and maybe a couple times during the week.

Let us know how your add-on lens works. I thought about going this route, but the cost made me think I might as well look at the next price range in projectors.
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post #154 of 188
6/15/11 at 7:19pm
Well I have to say that the little Acer rocks even with 2D as far as sharpness with a 30 degree field of view. Bright! WOW! Even on eco bulb. Fan noise isn't an issue. Colors look over saturated but not real bad...balanced at least and I'm sure with 3D it will look great. There are adjustments to tame the colors.

I don't have my new longer HDMI cable yet so I can not try 3D yet. Should have that either tomorrow or Friday. When I get the lens I'll work on getting it up on the back wall.

So far I think this is going to work out great for me. It really throws a clean image when feed a bluray video plus it works with 1080p/24 and looks great.

Sure if I move my eyes quickly i can see a quick flash of rainbow but it rarely bothers me. I don't have to move my eyes much with a 30 degree field of view.

Ron
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post #155 of 188
6/16/11 at 7:47pm
Update on my 3D setup after giving up on JVC:

3D looks great on the Acer! No ghosting at all! Colors look great in 3D too. The light loss with the JVC due to the polarization issue doesn't exist with the DLP projector. You don't have to reduce duty cycle at all. Just a factory reset and I had to flip the polarity. Image is plenty bright! I can use eco mode and movie mode for the best image. You don't have to turn on NVIDIA 3D or DLP 3D so you have full control over the projector and its colors. Sweet!

I will probably lose some light output with the teleconverter to make it long throw but my screen will look brighter with a ceiling or back wall mount due to its angular reflective properties. It should look better projecting from the ceiling.

I'll post back when I get the lens and run some tests with it. A 3D ready projector is the way to go with the VIP Theatre. No ghosting and no flicker! Very realistic looking 3D! I am very happy I gave up on the mod to make the RS1 work.

Ron
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post #156 of 188
6/17/11 at 2:30pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ronomy View Post

Update on my 3D setup after giving up on JVC:

3D looks great on the Acer! No ghosting at all! Colors look great in 3D too. The light loss with the JVC due to the polarization issue doesn't exist with the DLP projector. You don't have to reduce duty cycle at all. Just a factory reset and I had to flip the polarity. Image is plenty bright! I can use eco mode and movie mode for the best image. You don't have to turn on NVIDIA 3D or DLP 3D so you have full control over the projector and its colors. Sweet!

I will probably lose some light output with the teleconverter to make it long throw but my screen will look brighter with a ceiling or back wall mount due to its angular reflective properties. It should look better projecting from the ceiling.

I'll post back when I get the lens and run some tests with it. A 3D ready projector is the way to go with the VIP Theatre. No ghosting and no flicker! Very realistic looking 3D! I am very happy I gave up on the mod to make the RS1 work.

Ron

Glad your happy with the Acer. I agree with your observations about a 3D ready pj being no hastle and the way to go. Even though the 60 hz route is frustrating it's a challenge to understand what variables the application is up against and trying to find a work around. Some people may think I have been critical of VIP which I'm not. It's difficult to design a piece of hardware that is backwards compatible. Understanding all the variables will make for better future iterations in their product.
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post #157 of 188
6/17/11 at 3:19pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by thebard View Post

Let us know how your add-on lens works. I thought about going this route, but the cost made me think I might as well look at the next price range in projectors.

I just got the lens. Oh my god this thing is big! It will look funny in front of the little Acer. I might even try it with my RS1. I might get a brighter image out of my RS1 using this thing. I can see why it has a $2280 price tag on the Navitar website. Wow!
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post #158 of 188
6/17/11 at 3:29pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ronomy View Post

I just got the lens. Oh my god this thing is big! It will look funny in front of the little Acer. I might even try it with my RS1. I might get a brighter image out of my RS1 using this thing. I can see why it has a $2280 price tag on the Navitar website. Wow!

(Drool....)

Pics please, once it's installed!
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post #159 of 188
6/17/11 at 4:18pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by thebard View Post

(Drool....)

Pics please, once it's installed!

Installing isn't going to be easy. I need to get the projector in the right spot so that the image is centered on my screen. Placing the lens in front of the projector lens changes the position of the image on the screen.

Not easy to do up high so I may need to remove my theater seats and figure it out down low. Then take measurements of the offset to the screen and flip it for the ceiling.

Next weeks work. Can't do it this weekend. Plus I may need to build a shelf so going to be a while before I have a picture. I did just power it up and tried the lens in front of the projector lens and it shrinks it 33% for sure. Looks like it will work great!

Ron
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post #160 of 188
6/17/11 at 8:13pm
Took some measurements tonight and found a nice omnimount shelf with black glass that is adjustable in 1 inch increments. I know about where it has to go and the shelf has the required depth. It should look good! plus with the adjustment I can get it just right. I can shift the image some with the lens and avoid keystone. Nice!

When I put the lens up against the projectors lens and look inside it looks like one lens.

I couldn't pay for shipping when I can get free amazon shipping so it will not arrive until later next week.

Ron
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post #161 of 188
6/24/11 at 7:43am
Quote:
Originally Posted by thebard View Post

Let us know how your add-on lens works. I thought about going this route, but the cost made me think I might as well look at the next price range in projectors.

I have the shelf installed and preliminary setup on the wall with the telephoto converter lens and the image looks great projecting from 21 feet away on to a 120 inch diagonal screen with the Acer H5360.

I still have to punch a hole in the wall for cabling and install a cable cover that comes with the shelf. I have an issue with a ceiling fan I have in the room so I had to drop the height of the projector and tilt it up which means I have keystone. Setting the digital keystone correction to "2" looks great. Have not noticed any ill effect from using it. No noticable loss in brightness or sharpness using the lens but my angular reflective screen is probably a tad brighter with the image coming from up near the ceiling so it probably helped offset any light loss. So far I am very happy with the results. Using ECO lamp and 3D is plenty bright and completely free of ghosting with movies so far. I don't have any 3D games yet and I still have to finish installing cables.

Again very happy I gave up on the JVC. Much brighter 3D image and blacks don't seem bad when watching 3D. No where near my JVC's blacks but I can live with this just because the image is so free of ghosting.

The image is less sharp when I move in close as it should be with 720p but I sit far enough back that its a non issue for me. Plus the VIP only outputs 720p anyway.

Now I just hope my DVDO Duo VP will pass 3D from my PS3 to the second HDMI output on the Duo to the Acer and I can have both the JVC and Acer connected to the Duo at the same time. I'll install the VIP Theater between the Duo and the Acer. The Duo is supposed to pass 3D with no processing. This would be ideal because I could still use the JVC for non 3D games and internet TV with the PS3 if I want.

Ron
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post #162 of 188
6/24/11 at 7:53pm
Thread Starter 
On the flip side of the coin, I just got the JVC RS40 today and hooked it all up, been absorbed for the last couple of hours. I know it's a fresh bulb, but thus far on my 147in HP screen the image is extremely bright. Too bright actually, the bulbs needs to dim/mellow a bit(same was true of the RS2 actually). At the moment natural picture mode is plenty bright for 3D! 3D mode is crazy bright, perhaps in a hundred hours or so it will become necissary. After selling my RS2 the upgrade cost a few hundred more than the VIP, but it is ever so sweet(considering the JVC projectors do true 1080p 3D)!

Hopefully the bulb thats in there won't have the dimming issue that some users report, but all reports indicate JVC customer support has been really good about that in any case. I tell ya comparing the same scenes in Resident Evil 4 on my set up(hi power) to the set up at a local HT shop, where they had it playing on a 96in Stewart Greyhawk, I am reminded how glad I am that I went the hi power route. It's waaay brighter than their set up.

I've got a lux meter on the way, so I'll keep track of the light output every hundred hours or so, fingers crossed.
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post #163 of 188
6/24/11 at 8:13pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by plissken99 View Post

On the flip side of the coin, I just got the JVC RS40 today and hooked it all up, been absorbed for the last couple of hours. I know it's a fresh bulb, but thus far on my 147in HP screen the image is extremely bright. Too bright actually, the bulbs needs to dim/mellow a bit(same was true of the RS2 actually). At the moment natural picture mode is plenty bright for 3D! 3D mode is crazy bright, perhaps in a hundred hours or so it will become necissary. After selling my RS2 the upgrade cost a few hundred more than the VIP, but it is ever so sweet(considering the JVC projectors do true 1080p 3D)!

Hopefully the bulb thats in there won't have the dimming issue that some users report, but all reports indicate JVC customer support has been really good about that in any case. I tell ya comparing the same scenes in Resident Evil 4 on my set up(hi power) to the set up at a local HT shop, where they had it playing on a 96in Stewart Greyhawk, I am reminded how glad I am that I went the hi power route. It's waaay brighter than their set up.

I've got a lux meter on the way, so I'll keep track of the light output every hundred hours or so, fingers crossed.

Good luck! RS40 wouldn't work in 3D long in my setup and not even sure the IR glasses would work with a 23 foot throw bouncing off my screen back another 16 feet. I like using the RF glasses. I would of had to change my screen to use the RF glasses with the JVC.

The HP screen is nice if you have the setup so you get max gain. Especially for a 147 inch screen!

Another guy posted his RS40 lost 40% lumens in 200 hours. My last bulb in my RS1 lost over 30% in 200 hours so I don't think its every bulb that drops quickly. You could luck out!

Does yours have to warm up before all ghosting disappears?

Ron
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post #164 of 188
6/24/11 at 8:24pm
Thread Starter 
Wow you've got a big room, it's about 13ft from the screen to me, and the projector is another 4ft behind me. I've got the projector centered on the screen, and the projector is a foot over my postion, so it's set for optimal gain.

As for the ghosting, not that I've noticed, but this is day one for me. I actually need the bulb to dim a little, bringing out too much digital noise in all but high quality blu rays. I LOVE the lens cover that automatically covers the lens on shut down, I'm completely geeking out over that lol.

And boy DTV 3D looks sad compared to Blu Ray, it's every badly compressed, still kinda neat though. And ESPN broascasts in 720p 3D, and the projector won't accept that resolution. Hopefully they'll improve it.

One problem it's introduced though... I have the Harmony One remote with X10 extenders to my equipment. Well when 3D mode is one, the emitter floods the room with IR, rendering the X10 reciever nearly useless... ah well been wanting to upgrade to an RF harmony remote... it never ends.
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post #165 of 188
6/24/11 at 8:27pm
Also how do you figure a few 100 dollars more than the VIP?

RS40 is at least your RS2 plus $1500 more...plus extra for emitter and glasses. The VIP is only $500 plus emitter and glasses that are cheaper than the JVC glasses.
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post #166 of 188
6/24/11 at 8:34pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by plissken99 View Post

Wow you've got a big room, it's about 13ft from the screen to me, and the projector is another 4ft behind me. I've got the projector centered on the screen, and the projector is a foot over my postion, so it's set for optimal gain.

As for the ghosting, not that I've noticed, but this is day one for me. I actually need the bulb to dim a little, bringing out too much digital noise in all but high quality blu rays. I LOVE the lens cover that automatically covers the lens on shut down, I'm completely geeking out over that lol.

And boy DTV 3D looks sad compared to Blu Ray, it's every badly compressed, still kinda neat though. And ESPN broascasts in 720p 3D, and the projector won't accept that resolution. Hopefully they'll improve it.

One problem it's introduced though... I have the Harmony One remote with X10 extenders to my equipment. Well when 3D mode is one, the emitter floods the room with IR, rendering the X10 reciever nearly useless... ah well been wanting to upgrade to an RF harmony remote... it never ends.

You know I thought about the IR emitter screwing up my IR blaster. I was happy when I found out VIP would offer RF glasses.

I am looking forward to how it works out for you. Someday I'll have it all in one and hopefully no glasses at all. Heck maybe 3D will die.

I am sure that RS40 looks amazing with 2D movies!

Oh by the way! Did you know VIP is helping JVC with that ESPN problem?
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post #167 of 188
6/24/11 at 8:55pm
Thread Starter 
Well I sold my RS2 for 2k, and got the rs40 for $3100 new and from an authorized dealer. So actually $600 more yeah. I got the jvc emitter at cost for $60 and the Xpand 103 glasses for $80 a piece. Considering the VIP is a non option for RS2 users, and you get 1080p 3D, it's a pretty good deal.
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post #168 of 188
6/25/11 at 5:58am
Quote:
Originally Posted by plissken99 View Post

Well I sold my RS2 for 2k, and got the rs40 for $3100 new and from an authorized dealer. So actually $600 more yeah. I got the jvc emitter at cost for $60 and the Xpand 103 glasses for $80 a piece. Considering the VIP is a non option for RS2 users, and you get 1080p 3D, it's a pretty good deal.

I didn't know you could get it so cheap! Wow!
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post #169 of 188
6/25/11 at 7:27am
Thread Starter 
Right time right place, it was an installer unloading a few of them at that price. Same thing happened on my Pioneer FPJ1, guy here on the forums knew a guy who was closing out his inventory, we each got one for $2600 when they were still going for 4k(and at the time I sold my RS1 for $2300)!
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post #170 of 188
6/25/11 at 7:57am
Quote:
Originally Posted by plissken99 View Post

Right time right place, it was an installer unloading a few of them at that price. Same thing happened on my Pioneer FPJ1, guy here on the forums knew a guy who was closing out his inventory, we each got one for $2600 when they were still going for 4k(and at the time I sold my RS1 for $2300)!

You did the right thing! VIP probably would not have worked with the RS2. I am still very happy with what I have. Plenty bright 3D image and my viewing distance is fine with 720p. I will not need a new bulb very often like I would with the JVC. In your case 13 feet away from a 720p image on a 147 inch screen probably would not look so hot.

I also would have needed a new screen.
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post #171 of 188
6/25/11 at 8:48am
Thread Starter 
Yeah from everything I've read, and indeed what I'm seeing, hi power was made for 3D. In fact even if you've already got a bright image, I can't recommend hi power enough. My room is a batcave, so I didn't necissarily need it, but the image is just incredible compared to anything else.
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post #172 of 188
6/25/11 at 8:59am
Quote:
Originally Posted by plissken99 View Post

Yeah from everything I've read, and indeed what I'm seeing, hi power was made for 3D. In fact even if you've already got a bright image, I can't recommend hi power enough. My room is a batcave, so I didn't necissarily need it, but the image is just incredible compared to anything else.

I would get about the same gain with the HP as I do with my Draper M2500 at 1.7 gain sitting down. I have a large sample of the HP screen. So other than eliminating the polarization I wouldn't gain anything. Actually I don't notice a whole lot of light loss with my screen in 3D which surprised me. Retaining polarization must have something to do with it. Huge difference in brightness with the Acer over my RS1 with a new bulb.
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post #173 of 188
6/26/11 at 9:37am
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ronomy View Post

I would get about the same gain with the HP as I do with my Draper M2500 at 1.7 gain sitting down. I have a large sample of the HP screen. So other than eliminating the polarization I wouldn't gain anything. Actually I don't notice a whole lot of light loss with my screen in 3D which surprised me. Retaining polarization must have something to do with it. Huge difference in brightness with the Acer over my RS1 with a new bulb.

If you ever decide down the road to go passive having a screen that maintains polarization is a good thing. Is your Draper white or Gray?
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post #174 of 188
6/26/11 at 11:03am
Quote:
Originally Posted by mkoss View Post

If you ever decide down the road to go passive having a screen that maintains polarization is a good thing. Is your Draper white or Gray?

It has a pearlescent color to it! It does a great job rejecting ambient light too! So pearl white. The Dalite HP screen looks very white next to it plus it has a wide viewing cone that is just about right in my theatre. You can walk around, stand up and down with not much brightness change. It's a newer formulation that doesn't have the streaks that earlier M2500's had. Quite happy with it!
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post #175 of 188
6/26/11 at 11:46am
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ronomy View Post

It has a pearlescent color to it! It does a great job rejecting ambient light too! So pearl white. The Dalite HP screen looks very white next to it plus it has a wide viewing cone that is just about right in my theatre. You can walk around, stand up and down with not much brightness change. It's a newer formulation that doesn't have the streaks that earlier M2500's had. Quite happy with it!

I had a chance to buy a High power one time but found it to directional for viewing to my liking otherwise it is a nice screen.
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post #176 of 188
6/26/11 at 12:39pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by mkoss View Post

I had a chance to buy a High power one time but found it to directional for viewing to my liking otherwise it is a nice screen.

I came to the same conclusion when I built my Theater. I have a big sample of the HP and I liked it but too directional. I would love a silverstar but I need a roll down screen so that didn't happen.
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post #177 of 188
7/4/11 at 7:42am
There may be a solution to the frame lock issue by a work around with an item called HDFury 2 by going in via component. I was a ble to solve my HD7100 3D issue by using this between my Displayer and the PJ. It's a HDMI to component/RGB converter. No loss of sync throughout the movie.
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post #178 of 188
7/4/11 at 10:23am
Quote:
Originally Posted by mkoss View Post

There may be a solution to the frame lock issue by a work around with an item called HDFury 2 by going in via component. I was a ble to solve my HD7100 3D issue by using this between my Displayer and the PJ. It's a HDMI to component/RGB converter. No loss of sync throughout the movie.

I probably will not try this because my screen doesn't work with the glasses/JVC polarization issue. Image is just too dim and I don't want to buy a new screen.

Good find though!
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post #179 of 188
7/4/11 at 10:33am
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ronomy View Post

I probably will not try this because my screen doesn't work with the glasses/JVC polarization issue. Image is just too dim and I don't want to buy a new screen.

Good find though!

The beauty of this device is that there is no loss of quality going in through the component input. It was made to convert for CRT projectors and other PJ's that don't have HDMI input. But because it can give full 1080P quality the HDMI police in US had it outlawed.
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post #180 of 188
7/15/11 at 11:34pm
mkoss,have you tried to go in RGBHV with the fury? I have a HD1 and a NEC XG that I use a hdfury1 with and would be interested in seeing if this would work.My fury one doesn't have the option to go component just VGA/RGBHV
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