Not quoting this time... wouldn't have enough room to reply
As I mentioned before, Sharpness was at 50 since that was the default setting, so I turned it down to 0 just to see what I thought. I didn't look at any particular area or color in the picture... just attempted to retain an overall view... and the picture was slightly blurry... very subtle but it was definitely there. Turned it back up to 50, and it was gone. I didn't have time to try other settings, but will later using the DVE test pattern. I suspect I'll end up somewhere in the middle.
I couldn't agree more about the issues of using others settings... it's a crap shoot... but it's easy to change settings and you may get lucky so I'm not saying not to... just realize even if it improves your set, the odds of those setting making your set look as good as the orignal poster are even slimmer. I really wish they did work on the same level because I hate seeing anyone, especially me, spend all that money on a display, and have to go through this.
What convinced me was the thread about Fluctuating Brightness in the Panny 2011 lineup. The Service Menu settings, which are custom set for your display at the factory, are stored inside the A-Board... and those settings include information about colors, etc. Problem is, the SM values are different even between identical displays. Since I had a Panny Service Tech in my area, he came over and "updated" my A-Board using a flash drive which does not overwrite the SM settings. But anyone else had their A-Board "replaced" by a Panny repairman who are not authorized to have the data on the flash drive. So a repairman was supposed to save your SM settings, exchange the A-Board, then restore your settings. Problem is the majority of them didn't do that, telling the customer it wasn't necessary... which was bunk. That thread showed owners how to save and restore the SM settings themselves. The point is, the odds of the SM settings in my TC-P60ST30 matching the SM settings even in another TC-P60ST30 are slim, so using someone else's User settings won't provide the same results.
I never wanted to have my set professionally calibrated due to the cost and the fact that they eventually need recalibrated as the display ages... so the money adds up. Plus... and I'm not even remotely knocking DNice, Chad and any others who have clearly proven themselves... I just don't have much confidence in having someone else do anything I can do myself. I can see having a professional calibration, which I think looks good at the time, but decide otherwise a couple weeks later. Then what? But at this point, doing a calibration with my i1D3 and the updated version of HCFR was the best move I've ever made with my display... just look at my before and after calibration graphs. Not only am I much happier with my display, but it cost less than one professional calibration, and I can recalibrate in the future without any additional cost... even if I buy another display. If you can't afford the i1D3, there are good meters out there for less money. And HCFR is not only free, but it supports lots of meters, and many more updates are planned.
Sorry if I sounded like I'm on a soap box... just trying to help, but I sort of get that way with things I really believe in.