Panasonic ST30 DIY Calibration and Settings Thread - Page 34

I take back my earlier comments about this set not being much better than my old set, it appears the panel is settling in, and thus the picture has improved significantly since I got it. brightness and colors have either improved or my eyes have adjusted.

i'm back to to using d-nice settings...
but in addition, I also like Cinema mode now

Contrast 85
Color 50
Brightness 50
Sharpness 40
tint 0

All enhancers turned off

P.S these are TVtweak settings with brightess bumped down 4 notches.

Ditto.

I have the P42ST30 and like Jimmy said the panel size has it own settings. I did the Dnice breakin and have tried all the different calibrations done and always go back to the Dnice settings for the 42 inch panel. I have my sharpness at +17 and the HDMI on photo. I think of the sharpness as a focus like on a camera. I would like for Dnice to do a calibration using HDMI photo and graphics and take the best from there.

I was wondering if anyone has picked up a PANNY 220/320 and would like to share their player's picture settings?

I just finished using the Disney Wow calibration. I was surprised how close these are to the Jimmy settings. My daughter is an artist and she helped me double check my settings.

Contrast: 83
Brightness: 70
Color: 53
Tint: -3
Sharpness: 35
Color temp:Normal
Enhancement: off
Pro settings: same as Dnice
Black Extension: +4
Gama: 2.2
Panel Brightness: Mid
Advanced: same as Dnice

It was bad enough my fame only lasted 10 seconds but no sooner do I go offline, I've been tossed to one side like a scrap of paper... forgotten... unwanted... alone. How embarrassing

Not sure what to say... don't know how my settings could result in a darker display, especially considering Color Temp is Normal, Panel Brightness is Mid, and HDMI is Graphics... even my Contrast and Brightness are high. Carey's more recent settings are basically the same as mine, so it has to be the color settings. That probably means the color settings in my Service Menu are completely different. DNice felt Blue needed to be increased but in my case Blue needed to be decreased. I said before, that's probably the one change that made the biggest improvement in my display... must have the opposite effect on others.

My next move is to try a calibration with HDMI set to Photos just to see how it compares. Maybe I can get another 10 seconds of fame... although I'm not sure I can handle another one of these downward spirals

To long to quote!

Laughing! Hey Cobra no crown but a good heart. No pain, no gain, no fame. I think you are right about the colors. I'm retiring my crown, it's on a shelf. I don't have the will to keep tweaking.

Yes, too funny cobra. Nice to see you have a sense of humor. Yes, Jimmy, your settings really was the key and has shown us the light and brought us out of the darkness (no pun intended, lol). Exhibit your crown on your mantle proudly, knowing you helped so many others! Bravo Zulu!

You talking about the blu ray player? I know I have the black level or brightness setting for lighter, no darker. Other than that, I don't have any picture settings activated other than 1080p/24 and all that stuff.

Cobra, switching to photo mode shouldn't do anything to your grayscale. If it does, I'd be curious to know what exactly it did. All switching to photo should do is increase the saturation of a couple of your primaries. You will see this on the CIE color triangle when you measure the primaries.

Sure you don't... I've heard that before. Trust me... if I post more settings you'll be here along with everyone else. Maybe not right away... you'll probably wait till the little lady goes out for the evening so she doesn't know... but you'll be back. Already wrote down all the settings, right? And why do that unless you intend to fool around behind her back

I watched AMC HD last night... premiere of The Killing... and the picture was terrible, overall darkness/dullness... lack of color in some faces with very light green blotches. Then during the commercials for Mad Men, the picture was much brighter, but their faces were too red. Tried watching a few minutes of Speed on AMC this morning... better but certain scenes were still dull... and you know there is a problem when the AMC HD logo on the screen is blurry. Don't think I ever noticed a problem watching The Walking Dead. I swear Xfinity has settings to increase/reduce the quality depending on the show and/or the time of day. I hate cable.

Obviously the problem has nothing to do with the display settings since most of the channels I watch look very good... and Blu-ray is excellent. I'll still tinker with the i1D3 since I just started, but will try and pay more attention to the color settings since they seem to affect more than just the color of what you're watching.

Will keep that in mind. Thanks.

I have experienced a wide variety of picture variences from Netflix. My boys and I like to watch Top Gear a lot, and an earlier season has the picture looking washed out and a new season will have the colors pushed.....so frustrating....

I wanted to ask you what you paid for your meter and how good were the directions? To this point I have only calibrated a few sets with DVE, but have considered purchasing a meter if it isn't too much. I fear ending up with a tool that I won't know how to use.

I too feel that I reached a good picture and I am tired of tweeking and just want to enjoy my set. However, there is that niggling thought in the back of my head that tells me to buy a meter and make it the best that it can be. I am afraid of the can of worms though....

Yep. Was talking about the player. There's some advanced picture settings and was wondering what people were using

Lurking for sure BUT, my word is my bond. The world is waiting for your next break through. I think you have room to work for finding a warmth somewhere between normal and warm1, a little more crispness ( maybe call it detail ). Some are already thinking the current settings are bright so I wouldn't go there. Just stay out of the dark. You might find the answer to tint that fits the majority. If you can do these things, that should be the end of it as you move to the 2013 models and beyond, wearing your crown.

I watched that show last night and even though the show is filmed to be dark, I thought the picture was excellent on my set. I think that show is a good show to test to make sure the contrast and brightness is set correctly. By the way, the guy running for mayor didn't do it...allegedly. My bet is on the billionaire.

i1Display Pro... aka i1Display 3... aka i1D3... all the same meter but the first name is what to search on Amazon... $250. If that's too expensive search this thread for meters others are using. HCFR Calibration software is free but you need to go to the new site where it's currently under development. And there are step by step instructions on calibrating grey scale on the Curt Palme website. Search this thread... maybe start with my previous posts... for more info. Good luck.

hahaha... you are so full of it

Actually, having the crown creates too much responsibility. No doubt I'll still make adjustments with... and without... the meter, since the grey scale calibration pretty much tossed what I've done before out the window. But once I reach a certain point, I'm going to stop. Actually, now that summer is here, other activities are becoming more of a priority.

Yes, please continue to lurk. I'll be posting in the next day or two some questions so I know the best way to continue.

I agree... which is what kept me from jumping to conclusions before I had more time to watch the show. Their faces bothered me more than anything... pale with light green blotches. Obviously I do need to go back and take another look at both contrast and brightness... especially contrast which remained at 100 because the calibration instructions implied I didn't need to lower the setting.

I think the best thing for me to do at this point is begin a new calibration, but this time lower contrast until it reaches a point where it begins to have a noticeable affect other measurements... supposedly around 80. Then continue with brightness and move on to RGB settings. I'd be curious how a different contrast setting would affect the brightness setting, and how both of those would affect the RGB settings. Since this will only be my second calibration, I don't have a feel yet on which settings affect other settings so I'm about to find out.

Re The Killing, I didn't watch S1 until two weeks ago when I took a day and watched all 12 episodes in a row using On Demand. I did that because I liked the fact that the end of S1 upset a lot of people. Besides, at that point I only had to wait a week for S2 to begin. Waiting for S3 of The Walking Dead is killing me.

Curious what cable service you have?

I'm curious Cobra are you using Window patterns or APL patterns for your calibration ? I'm still tweaking but gotta say DYI is a blast

To be honest, I'm not even sure what an APL pattern is or the difference between it and a Windows pattern or which one is better to use for that matter. That's one of the issues I was going to ask ask about, so I could use some help.

But to answer your question, I used the Windows patterns on the DVE HD Basics Blu-ray disc... followed the Curt Palme guide. I'm telling ya... when I say I've only done one calibration so far, that's all I've done. It's fun but finding the time is a problem this time of year.

The APL patterns are smaller which can help with ABL causing issues from my understanding. I am using the windows patterns off AVS709. I'm ahead of you in reps I've done about 5 cals on my set. Last one I finished at midnight last night lol Still evaluating and tweaking. I am having alot of fun learning tho.

One thing I did notice in your settings is the big adjustments you made for white balance. My first couple cals I had some pretty aggressive adjustments also, but I was also messing with Green which is a no no from what I understand. I was just wondering if your big adjustments had something to do with your contrast of 100 ? I havent had to make rgb adjustments that large. I am a noob just like you for sure.

I'm pretty satisfied with my latest one but am not sure about the gamma, I know that's why alot of folks were using the Black Extension adjustment. I'm trying to stay away from that because I heard it causing some bad things. I plan on analyzing my post cal stuff tonight to try to figure out what I can improve.

Another thing I just noticed. You are using normal I am using warm2, that may account for the variance in RGB settings.

That's good to hear My ST30 blows my PX80 out of the water.

I picked up a calman package with older meter for $229, that software is pretty user friendly imo. There is a learning curve but its isnt too steep.

Cobra, BTW I'm changing my handle to 66GTO389, anyway, here is what I did with my DYI effort. I use Avia by Ovations disc. I've used it with great success since by Pioneer Elite days. I started with four assumptions. One, that gremmy's calibration indicated that a BE of +4 gave him the best graph for gamma. I may be wrong and he can come on to correct (my bad) but that's what I thought so that's what I went with. Two, D-Nice's Pro settings were dead on. Three, that Graphics per gremmy, was the way to go and (4) normal color temp restored proper warmth. I had already used the Avia test for the TV's processor, red, green and blue, a couple times earlier, so I kept those settings. So, before I did any of the other calibrations, I started with those first four steps or assumptions first. Then I did the calibrations for Contrast, Brightness (gray scale), Saturation & Hue and Sharpness next, making changes only in these basic picture settings. Sharpness was the hardest to do as the test pattern showed no changes. It was not until later with an HD source did I settled on +40 because I detected, subjectively, a more detailed picture. I did not go back and touch BE or Pro. or the graphics or normal setting. Of course this is all by eyesight, even the processor test, so very subjective. When I was done, my TV looked better than it ever had. You know the rest of the coronation story. When you get the time to play again, it would be interesting if you started the same way with BE and D-Nice Pro's, Graphics and normal, then use your meter for the basic settings to see what you come up with. Can you use your meter that way? Maybe that's not how it works. People on here have forever been asking if a calibrator has / will go back and calibrate to these settings with a meter. Maybe you will be the first.

Chunon, did you mean AGC or BE, Black Extension, the +4?

Yeah my bad I meant BE sorry about that.

I guess I should have made the request in my post to Cobra, that any of you guys that have meters now. Can you / will you calibrate, in particular, to the BE and Graphics, should I say, controversy? Smile

I might be coaxed into doing that Cobra's meter is better than mine, just an FYI my wb did come out different than dnice's probably due to panel variation. I have the 55" probably some black level variance to based on size of panel.

And one other thing possibly, did you do his panel prep? My 42 is not going to be as bright as your 55, at least that is what I read. I'm not sure the color processing would be different though. But maybe that statement doesn't make since if the panels are brighter. I don't know.