AVS › AVS Forum › Audio › Receivers, Amps, and Processors › The "OFFICIAL" Onkyo RC270, NR708,NR808, NR1008, NR5008, Integra 80.2 Failure Thread
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The "OFFICIAL" Onkyo RC270, NR708,NR808, NR1008, NR5008, Integra 80.2 Failure Thread - Page 50

post #1471 of 1574
11/5/12 at 2:02pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by WhiskeyJ View Post

The method I'm going to try is;
1) Remove the hard clear conformal coating with electronics cleaner.
2) Soak board in a Baking Soda/Distilled Water solution with gentle scrubbing.
3) Wash board in distilled water.
4) Clean board in Ultrasonic Cleaner with "Fresh" Baking Soda/Distilled Water solution.
5) Clean board in "Fresh" Distilled Water in the Ultrasonic Cleaner, Blow off excess, and let board dry thoroughly. Possibly in a low heat (125 F) oven
I really don't see how this can "damage" an unusable board. If this doesn't work' I think that I write this receiver off as JUNK.
My question for Calimark (or anyone else) is; Can you see anything wrong with attempting this method?
Also to remove the rear (Logic?) board, do you just undo the back panel "module" (rear 1/3 section) of the receiver? I remember seeing a photo of a TX-NR3007 (I think) with this module separated from the rest of the receiver.
Suggestions are welcome. Thanks Jack
Edit: I don't plan to use this procedure on the Display Board because of many mechanical switches and fluorescent display.
Also can anyone tell me or lead me in the direction of how to determine the "Build Date" from the Serial #? An old retired bar managers "Search Skills" seem to be somewhat lacking!

I cant comment on the cleaning procedure, but I have seen in the past on the MFG line, after solder, boards are washed in some water solution( dont know the composition). After the wash, it runs thru a timed heat cycle oefore being considered done.

For the removal (3008) I take off the entire back panel, and then a couple of screws(rear left side - when rear is facing your) to get to the 'cpu' board. I figured this out after taking apart a few times, so for a first timer, be careful.
Honestly- I'd doubt your display board has any issue- but my sample size is small to be certain.
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post #1472 of 1574
11/5/12 at 2:10pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Eldiablos View Post

I got my 5008 back from ABL. Here is what they listed:
2. The no audio with grayed out menu options is related to the HDMI board. This one manifests itself after 18 months. My guess is after time, the temperatures eventually cook the board most likely due to poor ventilation design (the onkyo running hot complaint).
I have my Onkyo with two high output 140mm fans on top of the Onkyo drawing hot air out from day one. I hope this helps others with any one of these issues.

That is very interesting- and opposite of the unrepaired unit I have. I'm hoping I see another of these 3008s for cheap to run further experiments.

BTW: Has any non -original owner been able to get any repair or parts for an 08 model?
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post #1473 of 1574
11/6/12 at 7:04am
Add me to the list of failures. My 80.2 pre/pro won't output any audio signal to my amp and my network will no longer see the unit over Ethernet. I think the HDMI board has gone bad, although video can still be seen.
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post #1474 of 1574
11/8/12 at 12:49pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dave Vaughn View Post

Add me to the list of failures. My 80.2 pre/pro won't output any audio signal to my amp and my network will no longer see the unit over Ethernet. I think the HDMI board has gone bad, although video can still be seen.

mine is doing the same thing Dave...tho at the moment mine takes 7 or 8 times switching the unit on and off to get sound. i'm sure it's a matter of time...
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post #1475 of 1574
11/8/12 at 3:25pm
Call Integra and send it in. Mine's heading off today...it's going to go out anytime now. Trust me frown.gif
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post #1476 of 1574
11/8/12 at 5:54pm
well, it seems you're prophetic...


no sound...zip, nada, none


pisses me off...the thing is, when it's working, the 80.2 sounds fantastic


i guess deep down, i've known this day was coming tho...
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post #1477 of 1574
11/8/12 at 9:11pm
I'm with you Luke. I packed mine up today and shipped it off. Hopefully I'll get it back in a relatively short amount of time.
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post #1478 of 1574
11/10/12 at 4:53am
Quote:
Originally Posted by lefthandluke View Post

mine is doing the same thing Dave...tho at the moment mine takes 7 or 8 times switching the unit on and off to get sound. i'm sure it's a matter of time...

It's going. If you are still under warranty, get going on a repair. Mine simply went from working one day to not working the next. No amount of power cycling would restore it. Well actually, the day befor it died, I was able to power cycle it. Worked in the first try and I didn't think too much about it. Then I discovered this forum. As they say, knowlege is power.

John
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post #1479 of 1574
11/10/12 at 4:55am
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dave Vaughn View Post

I'm with you Luke. I packed mine up today and shipped it off. Hopefully I'll get it back in a relatively short amount of time.

Dave, what was the time from purchase to failure?

John
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post #1480 of 1574
11/10/12 at 8:54am
Last night I was watching cable through my 2 month old Integra DTR 80.3 then all of a sudden the screen went green then black.

Now I get no picture on any HDMI input, sound seems to be working ok.

Are these these the same issues being reported in this thread by many?

If so you can add my name to the sad sack list...................
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post #1481 of 1574
11/10/12 at 9:08am
Quote:
Originally Posted by discodol View Post

Last night I was watching cable through my 2 month old Integra DTR 80.3 then all of a sudden the screen went green then black.
Now I get no picture on any HDMI input, sound seems to be working ok.
Are these these the same issues being reported in this thread by many?
If so you can add my name to the sad sack list...................

Try a different HDMI cable first. Also try a different source.
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post #1482 of 1574
11/10/12 at 9:09am
Quote:
Originally Posted by WhiskeyJ View Post

I've been reading this thread, on and off, since Nov. 2011. I saw some of the early solutions and decided to chance buying a TX-NR708 (Like New Open Box) from Amazon Warehouse Deals for $242.95, knowing that no warranty was involved.
After several months it started to turn on by itself, mode cycling, and so on.
Upon disassembly, I never saw anything remotely resembling a gooey or sticky conformal coating on either the display board or the other (Logic Board?) so I just cleaned the board connectors and replaced the 40 pin IDE cable.
Not wanting to waste my time replacing my "Trusty" TX-SR706 back in my system again, I left it plugged in on Standby. I made sure it wasn't even in the same room as my main system as not to get a stray IR turn-on signal. Within a day or so it had turned itself back on. The problem was not fixed and so its sat for the last 4 months.
Even though I'm certainly not any kind of electronics person, in looking at Calimark's board photos and recalling that others had suggested the problem was due to a poor job of washing and neutralizing the acids used during manufacture, it seems that Calimark's theory of shorting between the board layers (through the holes) is "Right on the Money".
I don't see any of the Green Copper Corrosion in mine, but still think the problem lies there.
The method I'm going to try is;
1) Remove the hard clear conformal coating with electronics cleaner.
2) Soak board in a Baking Soda/Distilled Water solution with gentle scrubbing.
3) Wash board in distilled water.
4) Clean board in Ultrasonic Cleaner with "Fresh" Baking Soda/Distilled Water solution.
5) Clean board in "Fresh" Distilled Water in the Ultrasonic Cleaner, Blow off excess, and let board dry thoroughly. Possibly in a low heat (125 F) oven
I really don't see how this can "damage" an unusable board. If this doesn't work' I think that I write this receiver off as JUNK.
My question for Calimark (or anyone else) is; Can you see anything wrong with attempting this method?
Also to remove the rear (Logic?) board, do you just undo the back panel "module" (rear 1/3 section) of the receiver? I remember seeing a photo of a TX-NR3007 (I think) with this module separated from the rest of the receiver.
Suggestions are welcome. Thanks Jack
Edit: I don't plan to use this procedure on the Display Board because of many mechanical switches and fluorescent display.
Also can anyone tell me or lead me in the direction of how to determine the "Build Date" from the Serial #? An old retired bar managers "Search Skills" seem to be somewhat lacking!

There is nothing wrong with attempting your method as long as you thoroughly dry the board before powering it up.

However I don't think cleaning the board is going to do anything. I used to build surface mount pcbs with pin though hole chips and what I am seeing in the pictures is nothing that is going to cause a failure.

If there is an electrical short cleaning will have no effect. Sure shorts do occur when flakes of solder bridge between two leads or lands but I don't see any flakes on the photos and they are not something that occur after a unit has been in the field.

I am afraid what we are seeing is component failure plain and simple.
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post #1483 of 1574
11/10/12 at 9:23am
Quote:
Originally Posted by Guzzi 1 View Post

Dave, what was the time from purchase to failure?
John

About 1.75 years. Funny thing is, this is my third 80.2. When I got my first one in November 2010, it refused to lock onto a HDMI signal and I sent it back. The next unit arrived in December 2010 and worked fine until February and then it started changing inputs and powering on randomly (sound familiar?). I contacted the product manager and let him know what was going on. He swore it had to be something in my system since getting two bad units was impossible. When I explained I'd had numerous other AVRs through my rack for reviews and this is the only pre/pro / AVR that was giving me issues, he begrudgingly send me a third unit which worked perfectly up until earlier this week. About a month after I sent my second unit in Onkyo/Integra issued the service bulletin on the affected units.
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post #1484 of 1574
11/10/12 at 10:21am
Quote:
Originally Posted by XStanleyX View Post

Try a different HDMI cable first. Also try a different source.

Thanks for the suggestion!

I called Integra and they walked me through a soft reset, unplug power cord for over 1 minute and voila, magic, the HDMI inputs started working again.

Thank goodness I don't have to go through the warranty process!!
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post #1485 of 1574
11/11/12 at 9:33am
Yet....
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post #1486 of 1574
11/11/12 at 12:33pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by haullin50 View Post

Yet....

yep...sad, but probably true
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post #1487 of 1574
11/14/12 at 10:25am
well...mine was shipped yesterday

gonna figure on 3-5 weeks before i get it back

time will pass a little quicker tho as my dealer gave me a loaner 80.2...outstanding
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post #1488 of 1574
11/16/12 at 11:11am
TX-NR708

Hello Barry,

After reviewing the hardware issues with your item we've determined that it is not repairable due to the high cost or unavailability of parts. Due to this, we've decided to simply reimburse you the remaining value of your warranty instead of attempting repair. Your item will not be returned to you.

We will be reimbursing you $599.99 in 2-3 business days via check.

If you have any questions or concerns, please reply to this email or call us at *** *** **** 6am-5pm PST M-F

Sincerely,
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post #1489 of 1574
11/16/12 at 6:12pm
Has anyone required a replacement HDMI board more than once?

If the answer is Yes, this doesn't bode well for us. If the answer is No, it still could simply be because no one's had a unit long enough for 2 boards to fry (seeing as how they apparently tend to fail around the 1.5 year mark on avr's that have only been out for ~2 years.


Max

P.S.
Also, for the folks who've had HDMI board failure, what were your unit's average temps with the way you had it set up? For folks reading this thread who haven't YET experienced the HDMI board problem, what are YOUR unit's operating temps and how do you have it set up (i.e. external cooling fans, bone stock fanless, 5" of space or more around the unit, or less etc)?

To check your unit's operating temps, on the front panel:
- Press and hold DISPLAY. While holding DISPLAY, press the STANDBY/POWER button. Release both and immediately press the TONE button. Temperature is displayed as T: 025 for 25 celsius unit internal temperatures.

After getting my 5008, I checked the temps with the avr powering 5 speakers (the fronts in Bridged mode). At the Audyssey calibrated THX Reference 0 from 10 feet away with 89db/w/m 8ohm fronts, center and rears at ambient room temps of about 74-75f, I could hit unit temps of 51-55c after 2 hours of watching a loud action movie with lots of explosions. Adding fans stopped the avr's temp from exceeding 47c. ***edited to add*** I've had external fans on the 5008 since the 2nd week and still suffered the HDMI board failure after about 16-18 months.

I then externally powered the mains and center and this dropped the unit temps by another 1-3c.

After getting my 5008 back from service the 2nd time 2-3 weeks ago (they installed the wrong HDMI board the first time, I assume from a 3008 since the rear USB port was missing. Had to send it back to get the right board), I got better fans. The unit's temps now hover around 25-26c at 70f ambient room temp with the speakers all externally powered.

I wonder if the HDMI board has had anything changed to ensure better longevity, or if it simply resets the MTBF clock another ~1.5 years? Unfortunately, I didn't test to see what temps the board was running at recently before it began failing. I wonder if there's any difference between the old board and new board and the old board in fine working condition vs the old board just prior to beginning to fail?
Edited by djbluemax1 - 11/17/12 at 6:26am
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post #1490 of 1574
11/16/12 at 7:37pm
Good points regarding temperature. My unit has a ton of airflow around it and shouldn't ever overheat.
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post #1491 of 1574
11/17/12 at 10:58am
I was running an Antec twin fan amp cooler since day one.. My receiver was never even warm to the touch. there are 5 inches either side of the unit and it is completely open in the back..

I don't know if I'm allowed to post a link but here it is..

http://www.amazon.com/Antec-Profile-Component-Theater-Products/dp/B000QJ4ZE2/ref=pd_sim_sbs_e_1
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post #1492 of 1574
11/17/12 at 11:15am
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dave Vaughn View Post

Good points regarding temperature. My unit has a ton of airflow around it and shouldn't ever overheat.

Quote:
Originally Posted by haullin50 View Post

I was running an Antec twin fan amp cooler since day one.. My receiver was never even warm to the touch. there are 5 inches either side of the unit and it is completely open in the back..
I don't know if I'm allowed to post a link but here it is..
http://www.amazon.com/Antec-Profile-Component-Theater-Products/dp/B000QJ4ZE2/ref=pd_sim_sbs_e_1
the failures are based on the coatings on the PCB's that were never removed properly by the sub contractor.
heat plays a role as the unit gets hot the coating migrates faster causing corrosion & that shorts outs the components on the PCBs . In any case a cooling fan just slows the migration of the coating , as it still is going to move into the connectors & components anyway . cleaning of the PCB actually spreads the coating into the chips causing corrosion there as well . all these units are ticking time bombs of failure , better to let them over heat now & then have then fixed than delay what is gonna happen any way I M H O
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post #1493 of 1574
11/17/12 at 12:39pm
I'm hoping Integra rules that my unit is dead and sends me their latest pre/pro in exchange smile.gif
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post #1494 of 1574
11/17/12 at 5:11pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Fastslappy View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by Dave Vaughn View Post

Good points regarding temperature. My unit has a ton of airflow around it and shouldn't ever overheat.

Quote:
Originally Posted by haullin50 View Post

I was running an Antec twin fan amp cooler since day one.. My receiver was never even warm to the touch. there are 5 inches either side of the unit and it is completely open in the back..
I don't know if I'm allowed to post a link but here it is..
http://www.amazon.com/Antec-Profile-Component-Theater-Products/dp/B000QJ4ZE2/ref=pd_sim_sbs_e_1
the failures are based on the coatings on the PCB's that were never removed properly by the sub contractor.
heat plays a role as the unit gets hot the coating migrates faster causing corrosion & that shorts outs the components on the PCBs . In any case a cooling fan just slows the migration of the coating , as it still is going to move into the connectors & components anyway . cleaning of the PCB actually spreads the coating into the chips causing corrosion there as well . all these units are ticking time bombs of failure , better to let them over heat now & then have then fixed than delay what is gonna happen any way I M H O
Actually, I think there are 2 separate issues. The issue you're talking about is remedied by replacing the IDE ribbon cable. The symptoms are mode cycling, turning on by itself, lack of response to controls etc.

The HDMI board problem on the other hand causes a loss of audio, grayed out menu options etc.


Max
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post #1495 of 1574
11/17/12 at 5:36pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by djbluemax1 View Post

Actually, I think there are 2 separate issues. The issue you're talking about is remedied by replacing the IDE ribbon cable. The symptoms are mode cycling, turning on by itself, lack of response to controls etc.
The HDMI board problem on the other hand causes a loss of audio, grayed out menu options etc.
Max
they are one in the same trust me . the cable problem shows up 1st & if that doesn't effect you then the coating seeping into the HDMI chips does it later
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post #1496 of 1574
11/24/12 at 6:46am
Has anyone heard of issues with the center channel not working / failing in the NR708?

For some, as yet unknown reason, I can't get audio in the center channel. I've spent a few hours reading posts in this thread and I've only found a few discussing center channel issues and none with the NR708. I bought mine new in Dec of 2010 from Amazon.

I reset the receiver to factory defaults, substituted a speaker that I know works, checked the center channel speaker wiring, checked and reset the hardware setup, tried various DVDs and updated the firmware. Still no center channel.

I'm a noob at this HT thing...is there something in setup I could be missing?

Thanks.

Bill
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post #1497 of 1574
11/24/12 at 9:37am
Try the internal test tone in the speaker setup menu. If you don't get sound from that...you've been bit by the Onkyo bug and it's time to send it in to service.
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post #1498 of 1574
11/27/12 at 3:10am
Got the call yesterday afternoon. They finished repairing my reciever, (5008). They were closing soon after I arrived there and were swamped with people bringing in all sorts of stuff, mostly TV's of all ages. Anyway, the guy said the HDMI board was replaced. He also said he had done about 8 of them that day. I did ask him a little about it and he said the cause is actually from a "dirty" HDMI signal usually from sources such as cable TV. I have Dish Network myself. (I don't know about that one. Maybe someone that knows this stuff could elaborate.) Anyway, he said every manufacturer has been bit by the HDMI bug and that he replaces gobbs of them for many makers. He also said that Onkyo and the others use proprietary boards and Onkyo makes them themselves. He also said that as a result of this "dirty" signal, it has caused the makers to design some kind of buffering or something into the boards to clean up the signal as it comes in So, the new boards are redesigned according to him. I have found out that these guys have been around a long time and has a good reputation for doing quality work, so I guess I have to defer to their knowlege. In any case, I have my reciever back and willl be getting it reconnected in the next few days. I am very happy to have it back! It was gone for a month.

John
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post #1499 of 1574
11/27/12 at 7:16am
So my blu-ray player was sending a "dirty signal"? That's the only thing that was hooked up via HDMI to my 807. My blu-ray player caused my 807 to fail? What a bunch of hog wash.
Edited by XStanleyX - 11/27/12 at 7:27am
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post #1500 of 1574
11/27/12 at 7:47am
Quote:
Originally Posted by Guzzi 1 View Post

Got the call yesterday afternoon. They finished repairing my reciever, (5008). They were closing soon after I arrived there and were swamped with people bringing in all sorts of stuff, mostly TV's of all ages. Anyway, the guy said the HDMI board was replaced. He also said he had done about 8 of them that day. I did ask him a little about it and he said the cause is actually from a "dirty" HDMI signal usually from sources such as cable TV. I have Dish Network myself. (I don't know about that one. Maybe someone that knows this stuff could elaborate.) Anyway, he said every manufacturer has been bit by the HDMI bug and that he replaces gobbs of them for many makers. He also said that Onkyo and the others use proprietary boards and Onkyo makes them themselves. He also said that as a result of this "dirty" signal, it has caused the makers to design some kind of buffering or something into the boards to clean up the signal as it comes in So, the new boards are redesigned according to him. I have found out that these guys have been around a long time and has a good reputation for doing quality work, so I guess I have to defer to their knowlege. In any case, I have my reciever back and willl be getting it reconnected in the next few days. I am very happy to have it back! It was gone for a month.
John

Highly doubtful from a engineering point of view.
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AVS › AVS Forum › Audio › Receivers, Amps, and Processors › The "OFFICIAL" Onkyo RC270, NR708,NR808, NR1008, NR5008, Integra 80.2 Failure Thread