Originally Posted by Mupi
Stop buying more. Biamping does not help much unless you use an external crossover. You dont need more than the Onkyo and Denon receivers that you already have.
BTW there is no such thing as "bright" or "warm" amp. Unless you buy an amp from BestBuy or Walmart, they are all neutral :-)
Stop wasting money on things that you really don't need.
I appreciate your input. I have seen quite a bit of this thought on other threads - that you can not tell the difference in amps unless you exceed their wattage limits. Trust me, I don't want to spend money unless it truly makes a difference, especially if it puts more heat in my room then what I already have.
This idea that amps driven within their limits will all sound the same (unless cheap) made me think back to my experiences where I thought I heard differences in electronics and in most cases there was never a straight A vs B comparison with only an Amp change. However, my recent experience with the UPA-1s help convince me you can hear a difference. I was expecting to have trouble telling any difference, but over time I did and it was not as good. Before making the decision to return them, I went back and forth a couple times between just the Onkyo and then with the external amps to be sure of what I was thinking. Note this was not AB switching as I had to unhook and reconfigure setups. I believe these differences in amps are often subtle and may not show up until you hear certain pasages or perhaps only after you have heard enough material for your brain to make a judgement. I have accidently recorded I-Tunes in 256 kbps vs Lossless and did not realize until a certain passage came on that I knew well and had some impact to my memory, I guess.
I would think with the correct setup you should be able to measure this impact. Start with a digital recording and play it through a very high end system (speakers, preamps, DACs) and record the output with a high end digital recorder. Then take this recording and play it back through the system and record it again. Do this several times and compare the final recording to original. There should be some difference. Now repeat this with a different amp in system with levels matched the best as possible. If final recordings match (except perhaps a slight change in overall level), then I would guess the amps are equivalent. Just a thought.