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The Plains Theater

post #1 of 1535
Thread Starter 
After reading as much as I could on this forum over the past several years, I’m finally ready to post my own build thread (my 500th post seemed as good a time as any). On one hand this seems like a huge step forward because I’ve waited so long to start, but on the other it’s still going to be a long time before I even get to put up the first 2x4. So, fair warning, this is going to be very slow, particularly to begin with as we have to build the house before I can actually start on the theater. Fortunately, to some degree we’re designing the house around a space for the HT, and this is what we’ve got in mind:

1) I intend to use the pro layout service, but I want to get the orientation of the room with respect to the rest of basement hammered out before I have the room designed by the pros. I will need the scale drawings from the architect to make sure I give Dennis and company the correct dimensions of the space.
EDIT: My layout is finished. I'm very pleased with it as it was a sanity check for everything I "think I know". Interestingly, my models were within an inch or so of the layout Dennis provided. The big differences were screen size and obviously Dennis included the acoustic treatment plan.

2) The theater will be in the basement with no exterior windows.
3) We want to have at least an 18’ x 24’ x 9’ space, but I would like to go as much as 19’ x full width of the basement if I can (around 32’ not counting odd nooks).
EDIT: The room ended up being 18'-10" x 30'-3" x 9'. There is an odd section at the back that adds another 2' for a total length of 32'-9" for half of the room, and a beam that will lower the ceiling by 2".
4) Right now I’m planning to use DD+GG, but I haven’t decided on which method to use for decoupling the walls yet (Room-within-a-room if possible, clips and channel if not).
EDIT: After talking with Ted, I've decided on clips and channel for ceiling and walls with a joist mufflers to isolate the HVAC supply and crossover duct to the adjacent room.
5) We are planning to have two rows of seating with a bar at the back for overflow seating. We intend to use this primarily for movies and gaming, but we also enjoy football and would like to host football parties during the season.
6) I would like a 2.35:1 AT screen, and after reading Tony123’s thread, I’m thinking 14’ wide sounds pretty good.
EDIT: For now I'm planning for a 138" wide by 64" high screen. This should optimize 2.35 as well as 16:9 content for my room. I'll have bars for both, but they don't really bother me, and I can always add a DIY masking system later

EDIT: I don't like trying to pick the equipment before my room is done because the current tech changes so quickly. However, I've learned that I need to at least have an idea of what I'm going to use in order to locate things in the room. With that in mind here's a couple things I'm considering: 
7) I'm considering either a Panny AE7000 or Epson 6010 for a PJ. a 12' or 14' screen is really going to be pushing either of these, but PJ technology improves every year. I'd rather build my room for a larger screen and update my PJ than have to redesign my room once the PJ will support a larger screen. I like the Panny as it would allow a memory zoom for 2.35 content, but I believe the EPSON is a little brighter.
8) Speakers are going to be a bit of a challenge as they will need to be high efficiency. I'm thinking something DIY like 4 Pi's or possibly the new SEOS project might be a good way to go.
9) With a room this size, 7.x is a no-brainer. It may require multiple side surrounds due to the multiple rows. I'm not sold on the 9.x or 11.x just yet, but it shouldn't be too hard to retrofit in a room with soffits and columns.
10) For subs, I'm thinking 3 or 4 to help with room modes. I'd love to get some of the Danley DTS-10's, but I'm not willing to pay for the assembled units. If they do another kit, I may pick up a few. Otherwise, something like 4 F-20's might be a good option.
Here's a top down view of the basement and theater. Again, the theater is 18'-10" x 30-3" x 9'



Index: I thought I would start an index of posts that I've found helpful while researching my theater. For now, it's just HVAC related, but I hope to update it as I run across useful stuff. Also, a good deal of this is lifted directly from the Dark Knight Theater, so you should really check out that thread if you're interested in a more comprehensive list of information.

HVAC
1) Your HVAC contractor is concerned with volume. They will calculate room requirements as Cubic Feet per Minute (CFM). They will size the ducts according.

From a noise perspective, we are concerned with Feet Per Minute (FPM) or velocity. To keep your diffusors (registers) from creating a lot of air flow noise, you do not want more than 250 FPM through a slotted or bar type diffusor. Therefore, let the HVAC contractor size the system but you insist upon the velocity...which will mean larger ducts and larger diffusors.

From a capacity perspective, the HVAC contractor needs to look at the demand of the room to be on the same order as a kitchen (that's if you cannot calculate latent and sensible BTU requirements). For example, six people sitting in the room will require 3000 BTU's/hr. (exclusive of equipment, etc). - Dennis Erskine


And another similar recommending that you size your HVAC based on a kitchen - by Dennis Erskine


2) Returns are high mounted (ceiling) and to the rear of the room. Noise transmission in the returns should never exceed the noise from the supplies and the system must be designed this way. Supplies are in the front of the room, high mounted (ceiling) and not near the screen. Diffusors should be Lenticular, slotted or bar type (www.nailor.com) and located in such a manner as to avoid drafts directly into seating locations. We typically will use the soffit as a duct chase to avoid direct penetration of the drywall barrier.


CFM counts when determing the cooling requirements of the air handler; however, for noise criteria, FPM is critical and should not exceed 250 FPM. The noise created by various diffusors may require a lessor velocity. - Dennis Erskine


Here's another post pertaining to the maximum desired velocity of 250 feet per minute.
3) Equally useful, is to increase the size of the duct by one size, have your HVAC contractor balance the system so that the VELOCITY of the air at the registers is 250 feet per minute or less. (Don't let them get confused between VELOCITY (fpm) and volume (CFM)). In other words, you want them to deliver the required CFM but at an FPM of 250 or less. - Dennis Erskine
4) Nah...don't think so. You'll want two supplies (typically in the front of the room, high mounted) and two returns (high mounted) in the back of the room. You do not want air flow directly on any seating location. You do not want a velocity of more than 250 FPM through any vent (diffusor). You want the HVAC system to maintain a temperature of 70 degrees F with an outdoor temperature range of -30 to 100 degrees F and to maintain a relative humidity of not less than 25% nor greater than 50%. You want six air exhanges per hour and 15 CFM of fresh air per person. - Dennis Erskine

HVAC SIZING
1) This theater has a single 8" flex supply line and no returns. From the table below, this should provide approximately 160 cfm of cooled air. It will be slightly less as the total length is greater than 25'



2) 1 Ton of cooling is equivalent to 12,000 BTU/Hr
3) 1 Ton of cooling can supply approximately 400 cfm of cooled air. This is a general rule of thumb used for sizing HVAC and will vary.
4) Each person generates roughly 500 BTU/hr at rest
5) Not considering the bar area, the theater will seat 8 people. This will require 4000 BTU/hr of cooling (8people * 500BTU/hr/person). I am assuming that when the theater is full including the bar at the rear (10 or 11 people), we will likely be watching a sporting event like the super bowl and will have the door open anyway.
6) The required cfm of cooled air is approximately

400 cfm/(12000 BTU/hr) * 4000 BTU/hr = 134 cfm


7) This is less than the 160 cfm supplied by the 8" duct.
8) The rule of thumb is at least 6 air exchanges per hour. The room is roughly 19x31x9 = 5301 c.f. (closer to 5,000 c.f. once the riser and stage volumes are accounted for). So 5301 c.f * 6 exch/hr * 1 hr/60 min = 530 cfm
9) The 8" supply will provide approximately 160 cfm, this leaves 370 cfm that must be provided by dead vents.
10) Here is a link to the Panasonic FV-40NLF1 fan that moves ~ 400 cfm.

Acoustic Treatments
1) I've read on the boards that the RT60 needs to be between 0.35 and 0.4.

Seating Information

1) Below is the often referenced seating distance chart.


Speaker Locations
  1. Below is one of the many speaker layout guides. This is the Audyssey layout for 7.x/9.x/11.x. The Dolby recommendations for PLIIz are pretty similar for heights, so this seems reasonable for layout purposes.
  2. Audyssey recommends +- 10 degrees for their azimuth positioning shown in the above guide. My front columns look like they will be at about 67 degrees from the center seating position. so this will be perfect for the front row, but I'm ~40 degrees from the back row. I suppose you can't make them all a money seat.
  3. Audyssey also recommends putting the front heights slightly wider than the L/R and as high on the wall as possible. Obviously, 45 degrees will not be possible in my room.
  4. Wides are recommended before heights when considering a 9.x setup.
  5. Wides should be set at ear height.


Other Threads About The Plains Theater
  1. Return Duct In Riser- I've decided against this due to the length of the duct run. I'm planning for a short just muffler/dead vent for the return.
  2. Clips + Channel at Outside Corner
  3. Beam 2" Below Ceiling - Need Suggestions
  4. Door Location and Size Advice Thread
  5. Soffit Heigh Advice Needed
  6. Where Do I Locate My Conduit and Power Feed for My PJ?
  7. Questions About Drywall And Green Glue on Back of Subfloor - Also includes link to 1-1/8" screws that are needed.
  8. Custom Door Jamb Question - Use 3/4" Ply or a ripped 2x8 for trimmer when a wide jamb is used.
  9. Fire blocking decoupled walls - There is also some good information on fireblocking here as well.
  10. Attaching trim to decoupled walls - Short thread, essentially just use liquid nails and finish nails or brads into the DD
  11. Light Spacing - Thread discussing light spacing the theater. Some good info here for determining the layout.

Edited by J_P_A - 7/24/13 at 7:29pm
post #2 of 1535
Thread Starter 
Reserved for pics of current progress:
I will try to keep a picture of the current state of the theater on this post.

Drywall is up, and I've started on the soffit framing.



Also, here's the obligatory Sketchup model. I'm still undecided on the color scheme, but for now I like the idea of a simple faux wainscoting on the lower portion of the wall. I've had to forego the coffered ceiling due to lack of ceiling height on the riser






The Plains Theater - Rule Number One
Don't Buy Equipment Until You're Done!

At the outset of this, I realized my budget was going to be extremely tight. Primarily because I'm currently a graduate student at the moment, and the funds that I'm using for the theater were set aside back when I had a real job. My plan is to finish the room first, and then buy equipment with what's left. Even that's going to be tight, but I think I'd rather build the room right, and gradually add the equipment as I get the funds than have a room that's not built as well as I'd like.




What I'd do differently


I thought I would start a section on what I'd do differently if I knew then, what I know now.

1) I would consider options for a theater space other than in the basement. Yep, that's right! Our house ended up with a large, unfinished attic space above 1/2 of our house. This is where all the mechanicals went, but I've looked around in there, and it really would have a been a nice place for a theater. I realize it creates it's own set of issues, but I would have at least considered this option more thoroughly had I known. As it stands, we built a basement, just so we would have space for a theater.
2) Ten foot walls in the basement. I went with 9' walls because I thought that would be more than enough. However, I will have a 15-1/2" riser, which cuts down on the ceiling height quickly. A 10' or better ceiling height would be really nice!
3) I might consider different options for the theater entrance more carefully. At the time, I liked the idea of entering the theater at riser height, but it forced the riser to be at 15-1/2" when I might have liked it a little lower in order to keep a little more ceiling height.

Index
  1. Exhaust fan arrives. Followed by several posts discussing HVAC
  2. GG tips and application to subfloor DW.
  3. Joist muffler begins.
  4. Started installing clips on the ceiling
  5. Adding fire blocking around the top plate and starting clips on the wall
  6. Channel layout around supply duct penetration
  7. First sheet of drywall goes up.
  8. Plywood for PJ and backer boxes for receptacle and LV conduit. Also includes dead vents for HVAC supply and return.
  9. Relay and schematic used to operate my fan in my deadvent
  10. Drywall and fan install
  11. Door threshold Rev. 1
  12. Door threshold Rev. 2
  13. Soffit Framing begins. Also, Pic of the new A-lens
  14. Sketchup model of soffit. Also BIG's photo of the Utilitech can light I plan to use.
  15. Electrical layout
  16. Deadvent return revised to use a 90 degree register boot.
  17. Stage and riser begin. Slight revision and decking on the stage.
  18. Saga of the noisy fan begins. Includes measurements of the Panasonic Whisperline fan that was replaced by a Fantech.
  19. First hushbox model. A few revisions in subsequent posts.
  20. Here's a Sketchup program that will generate an optimzed cultist. A bit off-topic, but I'll likely be building a LOT of speaker boxes, so this should come in handy




..
Edited by J_P_A - 9/23/13 at 7:49pm
post #3 of 1535
JPA,

That's a great looking space to work with. I'm jealous, as we came in at around 16 x 19.5 feet after drywall. Can you dig out to 10' at least for the theater room? I'm very glad we did in my home, and now wish we just did the whole basement this way. For example, we walk in on a 12" riser, the ceiling was dropped around 8" as the floating joists had to run perpendicular to the overlying floor joists, and I have a 12" tall soffit around the room that hides all of my wiring, dedicated deadvent ductwork, and some bass trapping. Just like that I lost 2'8" height, so the soffit is only 7'4" above the floor as you walk in.

Since you're doing new construction, I'd go whole hog for soundproofing. The free walls against foundation will be normal framing, and the 2 shared walls with storage and the stairwell can be easily double-studded.

About that storage.... How do you plan to use that if there is a false wall with an AT screen? You'd have to either take the screen down or build an AT door panel to get there. You'd also need to use a sealed solidcore door there.

For the 2 entry doors, obviously you don't want french doors, and the inner door at least needs to be solid-core and sealed.

How do you plan to ventilate the room? I tried to walk my HVAC guys through the requirements that Dennis Erskine once posted:

"You'll want two supplies (typically in the front of the room, high mounted) and two returns (high mounted) in the back of the room. You do not want air flow directly on any seating location. You do not want a velocity of more than 250 FPM through any vent (diffusor). You want the HVAC system to maintain a temperature of 70 degrees F with an outdoor temperature range of -30 to 100 degrees F and to maintain a relative humidity of not less than 25% nor greater than 50%. You want six air exhanges per hour and 15 CFM of fresh air per person."

They said they could not satisfactorily meet these requirements, but could just tie in the duct "with some bends". No grasp of soundproofing and flanking despite several discussions. My solution was a dead vent for some air exchange, and a minisplit for additional cooling. This they could not screw up. Another HVAC issue, absolutely do not permit them to lazily drop any duct runs below the floor joists running over your room. You'll lose even more room height, and properly planned these should run in the joist cavities when needed.

Not that you're there yet, and the design guys will surely help you out, but make sure to include lots of lighting that is zone controllable. I have 8 cans, 6 sconces, and perimeter LED uplighting of the ceiling, as well as step lights. With the fabric walls and colors I chose, it is inviting but nowhere near a diffused daylight brightness. I think that if you underlight your room, it will see less use, particularly for social viewing of sports.

Good luck with your build!
post #4 of 1535
Looks like a nice setup for IB. Any plans to go this route?
post #5 of 1535
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by uscmatt99 View Post

......... Can you dig out to 10' at least for the theater room? I'm very glad we did in my home, and now wish we just did the whole basement this way......
I'm not sure, yet. It's one of the items on the "I'd like to have" list, but I don't know if it will make it into the budget. I think there are some other things that might take precedence like getting spray in foam insulation in the attic. We're going with 9' ceilings throughout the rest of the house as well. The good thing, is the builder has a pretty nice theater in his house, and he's already made it clear that he wants the basement floorplan finalized to make sure we route mechanicals out of the way.

Quote:
Originally Posted by uscmatt99 View Post
......Since you're doing new construction, I'd go whole hog for soundproofing......
I'm definitely planning to do as much as I can, since this is one area I can't go back and fix later!

Quote:
Originally Posted by uscmatt99 View Post
......About that storage.... How do you plan to use that if there is a false wall with an AT screen?........
This is one of the areas I'm hoping for some advice on. the only thing I can think of would be to build my screen so that it is easily removed, and place the door carefully so that I don't have to move speakers to get to the space.

Quote:
Originally Posted by uscmatt99 View Post
.....For the 2 entry doors, obviously you don't want french doors, and the inner door at least needs to be solid-core and sealed........
I'm actually a little conflicted on this. Since we intend to use this for social events like football parties, I'd like to be able to open the room up so that it's not so claustrophobic. My thought was that the communicating doorway would help with sound isolation despite the double doors. Any thoughts on how to achieve both goals?

Quote:
Originally Posted by uscmatt99 View Post
.......How do you plan to ventilate the room? ........
This is one of the reasons I want to get the plans done before we start building. I hope the pro layout service will also give some guidance here that I can pass on to the HVAC contractor. We'll see what happens, but I'm not ruling out a dead vent.

Quote:
Originally Posted by uscmatt99 View Post
....... Another HVAC issue, absolutely do not permit them to lazily drop any duct runs below the floor joists running over your room. You'll lose even more room height, and properly planned these should run in the joist cavities when needed.........
Here again I think our builder has a good grasp on what we're wanting and is making sure we have finished plans for the basement before we start building since we're not planning to finish the basement at the same time we build the house.

Quote:
Originally Posted by uscmatt99 View Post
.............Not that you're there yet, and the design guys will surely help you out, but make sure to include lots of lighting that is zone controllable........
Thanks for the tip. That's a good point, and I think it also gets back to the same issue with the doors in trying to make this a dual purpose space.
post #6 of 1535
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by vanice View Post
Looks like a nice setup for IB. Any plans to go this route?
I've thought about it, but I'm concerned about tuning the thing. Having never heard one in person, I'm not sure what to expect, and I don't just want loud. I would like for the bass in the room to be loud and refined. For the subs I've also considered something like the Danley DTS-10 as well.
post #7 of 1535
Thread Starter 
As promised. here's my first progress update (of sorts). Here's a picture of the lot with a superb representation of where the house is going to go . It's a big lot, and we have lots of options on where to put the house, but this particular spot gives us a walkout basement into the tree line, but also lets the front and back of the house be at grade as well. The lot slopes off at the tree line which you can't see well in the pictures.



The next bit of progress will be to have someone get a bush hog out there and cut down all the waste high weed and saplings!
post #8 of 1535
Thread Starter 
I flipped the theater around and moved the entrance. This gives better access to the storage area on the left, but I liked the entrance better in the first option. I'm also a little concerned about where we are going to route the mechanicals.

What do you guys think? I'm open to opinions/options/alternatives!



Edit: Sorry for the bad image quality. It doesn't look that bad before I upload it?
Edit 2: Fixed it. let it me know if the images are too big.
post #9 of 1535
Thread Starter 
No more takers, huh? How about a different approach. Does anyone have any suggestions about the layout of the entire basement? We want a bedroom, a bathroom, and the theater. The wall at the bottom is the only one with windows and a door, and the stairs would be difficult to move.

Any suggestions?
post #10 of 1535
I like the theater layout of the first option best - mostly because I think the sources and other electronics should be placed nearer the projector (behind the viewer), and I think that'll work out better in that orientation. I do think the place you put the door for access to storage in the second drawing is the better choice, and I don't see why you can't use that door location behind an AT screen. Also, I figure the best way to set up an AT screen is with a concealed walk-around - no door needed to get behind the screen, just walk between the front of the screen and the back of a column or short wall.

The other thing that comes to mind is how the HT electronics may integrate with other home systems. Will you want network access to you equipment? and where should that go? (this is another reason I would think the first orientation might work out best.)

I'm sure Dennis will see great opportunities here. I'm looking forward to it!

Fred
post #11 of 1535
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by HopefulFred View Post

I like the theater layout of the first option best - mostly because I think the sources and other electronics should be placed nearer the projector (behind the viewer), and I think that'll work out better in that orientation. I do think the place you put the door for access to storage in the second drawing is the better choice, and I don't see why you can't use that door location behind an AT screen. Also, I figure the best way to set up an AT screen is with a concealed walk-around - no door needed to get behind the screen, just walk between the front of the screen and the back of a column or short wall.

That's a really good idea! I put the door in the back wall in option 1 because I figured the false wall would need to attach to the side wall. Which would likely fall where the door is. But your solution would let me leave that door on the side. I could let the door open into the storage as well.

Quote:
Originally Posted by HopefulFred View Post

The other thing that comes to mind is how the HT electronics may integrate with other home systems. Will you want network access to you equipment? and where should that go? (this is another reason I would think the first orientation might work out best.)

I'm not sure I follow you here? I figured I would put some network jacks in the theater, but could also use wireless. The media closet would also be wired as well

Thanks again for the feedback!
post #12 of 1535
Quote:
Originally Posted by J_P_A View Post


The next bit of progress will be to have someone get a bush hog out there and cut down all the waste high weed and saplings!

use round up then bulldoze
post #13 of 1535
Thread Starter 
You're the second person to tell me must to have them use the dozer to skim the entire yard. That way it gets all of the sapling roots and stumps as well, and I think that's what we're planning to do. However, I'm still planning to bush hog it, but just so we can get a better idea of where things are and where to put the house on the lot. It's hard to see much out there right now, and I'd hate to pay the guy with the dozer to come out there twice.
post #14 of 1535
Oh, its a lawnmower of sorts - I thought you were searching for truffles.
post #15 of 1535
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Brad Horstkotte View Post

Oh, its a lawnmower of sorts - I thought you were searching for truffles.

That's funny! You got me thinking, though. Bush hog is one of those things I've heard most of my life, but never really stopped to make sure it's the correct word. Fortunately, it is. I would have felt like a real rube if it hadn't been.

As a bit of an update. We've got what we think are the final sketches. So hopefully we'll be going to CAD drawings soon!
post #16 of 1535
Didn't realize you had a build thread going! Good for you!

In looking at your layout and room dimensions, I didn't realize how similar in size our rooms were. You're 18" wider than I, but other than that, identical.

Looking forward to following along.
post #17 of 1535
Thread Starter 
Great to have you along, Tony! We got our first set of CAD drawings yesterday, and we actually gained a few more feet of length in the room. I'm hoping that will make it easier to access the storage area behind the screen.

We're planning to start construction around the first of next month, so I could really use everyone's input on the layout.
post #18 of 1535
How do you access the storage room now?

There's a reasonable chance that if you go with the Danleys, the ports will face into the front wall. If so, you'll need that air space we discussed. I would suggest a minimum of 28" behind the screen. That also opens up options for other subs, if you go a different route now or in the future.

Your room dimensions are fantastic! You are 18" wider than me, and my side isles could use that extra 9" per side. I'm okay with it, but yours will feel "generous".

I also really like how the stairs let you off at riser level for the theater!
post #19 of 1535
I'll be interested to see what you do with seating. I'm 1 foot shorter than you in length.

People made fun of me for reserving 22' x 30 space for HT... "what do you want to do, play hockey in there?", but I was surprised how restrictive it is. I just gave up on 2 rows + desk/bar and I'm starting to wonder if I can really do 2 rows without comprising both.
post #20 of 1535
JPA, I enjoyed the phone call! Always nice to meet good people! Best wishes as you break ground on the home.
post #21 of 1535
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by rabident View Post

I'll be interested to see what you do with seating. I'm 1 foot shorter than you in length.

People made fun of me for reserving 22' x 30 space for HT... "what do you want to do, play hockey in there?", but I was surprised how restrictive it is. I just gave up on 2 rows + desk/bar and I'm starting to wonder if I can really do 2 rows without comprising both.

I understand completely! The look on our architect's face when I told them I had to have at least 18'x28' (IIRC) for a theater was priceless. My builder get's it though. He's got a nice HT in his home, and he just asked, "what else are you going to do with a basement? You only need so many bedrooms, living spaces and bathrooms."

With regard to seating, have you looked at tony123's thread? He has a space that's nearly identical to what we have, and he has two rows with a bar at the back. I'm modeling quite a bit of my space after his.
post #22 of 1535
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by tony123 View Post

JPA, I enjoyed the phone call! Always nice to meet good people! Best wishes as you break ground on the home.

Tony,

I truly enjoyed the conversation as well. I haven't met anyone in my area with the HT affliction, so it's always nice to talk with someone that understands. Like I said, misery loves company

I also mentioned to my wife that I'd talked with you, and that you'd extended an invitation to visit your theater. All she asked was when I was planning to visit? I love my wife!

Thanks for the feedback on my layout as well. I think I would have preferred a rear entry into the theater similar to yours, but it wouldn't fit with the rest of the layout. However, I like the idea of the stairs stopping at riser height as well. There may be one more step-down from the landing, but it will be outside the theater.
post #23 of 1535
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by tony123 View Post

How do you access the storage room now?

There's a reasonable chance that if you go with the Danleys, the ports will face into the front wall. If so, you'll need that air space we discussed. I would suggest a minimum of 28" behind the screen. That also opens up options for other subs, if you go a different route now or in the future.

Almost forgot. Entry to the storage area is a problem I haven't worked out yet. I've considered using french cleats and just lifting the screen off the wall when I need to get back there, and I've also considered a piano hinge or something to swing the screen up. I'm not a huge fan of either option as I'd like to DIY a masking system at some point.

I'm open to suggestions!

I was guessing about 24" behind the screen wall, so it sounds like I need to bump that up to 28"-30". I'd rather have a little extra than not enough!
post #24 of 1535
Can you bring it out far enough to get a door there from the bedroom closet? Might not be able to get big storage items in there, but easier than moving the screen.

I will have to move my screen to access the sprinkler shutoff in the fall and spring.
post #25 of 1535
Thread Starter 
I think I would lose too much space by moving it the far forward. It's a good idea, though. I think my drawing may be a little off as well. I think the false wall and the wall dividing off the storage area will actually be a little further back. I didn't have enough dimensions to work from so I had to guess at it a bit.
post #26 of 1535
The 28" is working well for my room, but that's not to say your room doesn't respond differently. Also consider that you may limit options for your LCR depending on how much space you leave back there. Some mains are rear ported and quite deep.

What are the two spaces on the plan that aren't labelled at all? crawl space?

In my room I think there is an advantage to rear entering doors particularly because they can open up and allow viewing from the gameroom. Yours is layed out differently, and I like the rear/side entry you have drawn.

Your wife sounds like a smart woman! She's welcome too.
post #27 of 1535
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by tony123 View Post

The 28" is working well for my room, but that's not to say your room doesn't respond differently. Also consider that you may limit options for your LCR depending on how much space you leave back there. Some mains are rear ported and quite deep.

What are the two spaces on the plan that aren't labelled at all? crawl space?

In my room I think there is an advantage to rear entering doors particularly because they can open up and allow viewing from the gameroom. Yours is layed out differently, and I like the rear/side entry you have drawn.

Your wife sounds like a smart woman! She's welcome too.

Good points!

The unlabeled areas are under the garage and front porch, and I suspect will be un-excavated. That brings up a good point as to why they are shown on the basement layout, though. I wonder if this is just to show footings for those two spaces?

You will immediately go on my wife's "good friends" list for recognizing her intellectual superiority She's actually very supportive of this. She enjoys movies as much as I do, and she's really looking forward to having a dedicated room as well.
post #28 of 1535
You could sacrifice your walk-in-closet and make it a shower. Then put a door where the tub is.

Or move your screenwall back as far as possible without regard for the storage space. Then make what's left of the storage room into a mechanical room and put an exterior door on it. If you have gas water heater / heat, it's a little safer having them on an exterior wall so they can vent directly out. And it could be convenient for your AC coolant run if the heat exchangers are close by.

Also make sure your builder doesn't put a giant steal beam anywhere. They can eat 20" of ceiling height. I think the best is engineered trusses, you'll need to make sure they run the HVAC through the webbing in the trusses.
post #29 of 1535
Thread Starter 
rabident,

That's a good idea to add the entry to the storage area from another room. I'll have to look at how much space I will need to give up in the theater. I would guess about 4' at the front. I would also have a room with no closet, or at the minimum a small closet in the bathroom. I'll have to toy around with that a little more.

EDIT: I forgot to mention. The theater is completely below ground, so I can't add an exterior door. The only wall at grade is the wall with the bedroom and game room.
post #30 of 1535
Thread Starter 
I tried to do a scale drawing with the existing configuration. The idea is to have removable panels at each of the screen, that way I could access the door to the storage room. For anything too big to fit between the opening between the screen and door I could just take the screen down.

I may add a third riser to eliminate the one step down at the bottom of the stairs. It will depend on the ceiling height at the door entry.

What does everyone think?

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