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The Plains Theater - Page 12

post #331 of 1535
Quote:
Originally Posted by J_P_A View Post

I was just wondering if my server needed to be supported from the the back as well. It's pretty hefty, but most of the weight is at the front where all the drives are. There are no rear support brackets on it (at least none came with it), but I'd hate to find out the hard way that it needed to be supported.

If it does not have the rear rack rail ears or accommodations for side-mounted sliding ears, then the unit is probably designed to support its own weight with just the front ears like the overwhelming majority of equipment out there. So I wouldn't worry too much about it, but you could always do a quick double-check with the manufacturer.

I always use Leviton Quickport for some reason, but other manufacturers make similar binding posts. Here is a link to the one I always use: http://www.leviton.com/OA_HTML/Produ...minisite=10251
post #332 of 1535
Thread Starter 
After looking at your post, I found this guy over at Monoprice. Looks like it has everything I need and includes the binding posts like you linked to rather than just the banana jacks. This would be a much better solution!
post #333 of 1535
Quote:
Originally Posted by J_P_A View Post

After looking at your post, I found this guy over at Monoprice. Looks like it has everything I need and includes the binding posts like you linked to rather than just the banana jacks. This would be a much better solution!

Perfect. I like these types of plates when it puts everything together into a simple 2-gang unit. You'll be happier with the flexibility of these types of binding posts vs. banana jacks only.

Your masons finish the brick on your house? When does the rest of the exterior go up? The progress looks great - can't wait to see the pics of the spray foam.
post #334 of 1535
Quote:
Originally Posted by J_P_A View Post

I was just wondering if my server needed to be supported from the the back as well. It's pretty hefty, but most of the weight is at the front where all the drives are. There are no rear support brackets on it (at least none came with it), but I'd hate to find out the hard way that it needed to be supported.

You have the Norco 4020, right? Isn't that a 20 drive case (I have the 4220). Once fully loaded, it is indeed a beast. I ordered the Norco rails for rack mounting (which require rear connections, but frankly, I'm thinking I'm going to order a Middle Atlantic shelf (their SS4-23VTR) which supports 75 pounds evenly distributed and slides out. However, I do have a purpose-built rack with rear rails, so it's a bit easier to put in. Those Norcos are 40 pounds empty, so filled with drives and hardware. . .I don't think there's a strong enough screw to use on the front to keep that puppy in place.
post #335 of 1535
Quote:
Originally Posted by mike1812 View Post

You have the Norco 4020, right? Isn't that a 20 drive case (I have the 4220). Once fully loaded, it is indeed a beast. I ordered the Norco rails for rack mounting (which require rear connections, but frankly, I'm thinking I'm going to order a Middle Atlantic shelf (their SS4-23VTR) which supports 75 pounds evenly distributed and slides out. However, I do have a purpose-built rack with rear rails, so it's a bit easier to put in. Those Norcos are 40 pounds empty, so filled with drives and hardware. . .I don't think there's a strong enough screw to use on the front to keep that puppy in place.

OK, my curiosity got the best of me, so I took a stroll out to YouTube and found some NSFW nerd porn:



That thing is HUGE!!! Also seems to simulate the noise found on JFK's runway with everything running.
post #336 of 1535
Back to the solder, crimp, and compression type of fittings I have done the compression and solder type both F type and RCA connectors. Compression is far easier and faster than solder type. I have made all my cables and interconnects (except HDMI of course). I found it much easier and cost effective to buy raw cable in bulk and then terminate when I was ready to do so vs. ordering terminated cables trying to run them without damaging the connectors and guesstimating the length needed and what not. It is very easy to do as well and there are many DIY cable making threads and instructions all around AVS and the web.

If you are interested send me a PM and I'll point you in the right direction for tools, supplies connector suggestions etc.

Regards,

RTROSE
post #337 of 1535
Quote:
Originally Posted by J_P_A View Post

Ouch! I guess I gotta stop with all my ramblings

Maybe tomorrow!

I didn't mean in a negative way. Some threads come and go (like my build). Other threads spark interest and stick around long enough to get a 'last page' link.

I got footings today. When they start water proofing, I'll snap some pics for your review.
post #338 of 1535
Quote:
Originally Posted by rabident View Post

I didn't mean in a negative way. Some threads come and go (like my build). Other threads spark interest and stick around long enough to get a 'last page' link.

I got footings today. When they start water proofing, I'll snap some pics for your review.

Wait, you have a build thread? Seriously? I had no idea. You should put a link in your signature, will increase the traffic on your thread.

Regards,

RTROSE
post #339 of 1535
Thread Starter 
Ah yes, I remember the sounds of the Norco jet engine I swapped the fans, so she's a little quieter now. I still need a sign recommending the neighbors keep their small children and pets away, though. Afraid it might suck something in there!

It sounds like the consensus is to support the back. I don't think I need to do anything fancy, though. I'll probably just put a couple 2x's at the back, and run a brace across there for any equipment I need.


RT, I'll be sending a PM shortly! Thanks for the cabling advice!

Masons haven't finished yet. I think we're waiting on the last window in the back of the house. Apparently the wrong one came in, so they're supposed to be rushing delivery. I probably won't have any foam pictures for a while though. There's some data out there suggesting some of the chemicals off-gassed while the foam cures can cause an allergic reaction in some people. I don't think there's any point in tempting it. So I'll probably wait around a week or so before going back in the house after foam. But don't worry, I've got something to keep you guys interested. Post to follow shortly
post #340 of 1535
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by rabident View Post

I didn't mean in a negative way. Some threads come and go (like my build). Other threads spark interest and stick around long enough to get a 'last page' link.

I got footings today. When they start water proofing, I'll snap some pics for your review.

+1 to what RT said! Where's the link to the build thread?

I'm all for pictures of waterproofing. I like to think of myself as a legend in my own mind when it comes to waterproofing Bring on the photos!
post #341 of 1535
Thread Starter 
So I've been thinking about what I would do to spice up my ceiling a bit. What do you guys think of this?

I'm really looking for honest opinions here, too. So don't try to spare my feelings. I want to do something a little different, and I need to hide the beam hanging down about 2" at 135" back from screen wall. It would have been nice if it was at 1/3 the length or 1/2, but no, it's at an odd length. Anyway, I'm open to suggestions, but I was bored today when I should have been working and through this together. I still haven't decided on a color scheme, so don't let the red and black sway you, either.

post #342 of 1535
Looks pretty cool. Are you thinking of any can lights (the smaller ones) in the wood at all? You could do them at the intersections perhaps.
post #343 of 1535
Thread Starter 
I haven't thought much into the lighting plan, yet. But I had though of doing some rope lighting, or some LED lights similar to what Moggie used in his columns. I'd like for the wood sections to look like they're floating since they'll be relatively thin. I was planning to keep those sections at less than 6" thick due to the ceiling height at the back of the room.
post #344 of 1535
Interesting design. You might consider mirroring the pattern more exlicitly in the wood work on the columns. For example, have the columns have their tops be like the notched oval/circle you have on the ceiling.
post #345 of 1535
I like the ceiling. I agree with matching the style of the columns to the ceiling. The other suggestion I would have is connecting all the outside edges together with some sort of border or changing the soffit face to match the woodwork.
post #346 of 1535
Ok,

You want an honest opinion? Well.......hmmmmmmmmm it is just not working for me. I don't know if it is the render or what but it seems to look "heavy" or overbearing to me. Especially the "blocky" center parts.

I do agree with a couple of other things though. I would mirror something similar in the column design and to connect the open edges.

I do like that you went with a circular type of design vs. the normal square or angles that a lot do to the ceiling that part of the design is unique and me likey.

Regards,

RTROSE
post #347 of 1535
+1 to Stockmonkey's comment about the border around the soffit to match everything up a bit better BUT I am personally not crazy about the blending of traditional styles you have going on in the rest of the room and the ceiling style which has moorish / asian hints to it IMHO.

If I recall correctly, you had said that the LVL hangs down only 2" lower than the joists. I thought I had mentioned this once before, but if you are soundproofing the ceiling through decoupling, it would take almost no effort whatsoever to pack down the ceiling this 2" with decoupling clips, resilient channel, etc. so you would have a perfectly smooth and flat ceiling. Then you wouldn't have to make a design "fit" something you are trying to hide. Instead you could do what you would like to do for a ceiling detail.

Check these decoupling items out:
http://www.kineticsnoise.com/arch/wa...urces/wave.pdf

http://www.acousticalsolutions.com/r...FQKf7QodIk-wXg

If these clips with the resilient channels don't get you the full 2" height you need to clear the beam with your 5/8" DD + GG, you could always pack out the ceiling underneath the clips with some cheap 1x material or even 3/4 plywood strips ripped to length on a table saw .
post #348 of 1535
Thread Starter 
I appreciate the candid feedback. I haven't decided if I like it yet or not. There's something about the proportions that I'm definitely not digging (too heavy as RT mentioned), but that's probably a trial and error thing to fix.

As far as the different styles go, I'm completely oblivious to that sort of stuff, so comments are much needed. Are there any particular parts that jump out as being different. I like the idea of making the columns match the design cues on the ceiling. I'd overlooked that and was just focussing on the ceiling. I think if I find a ceiling design I like, I'll probably build the columns to match (or at least be similar).

Here it is again with the vertical parts of the soffit in the wood color.



I'm going to try to come up with several different ceiling plans, and hopefully pick the one we (yep, the whole group here) likes the best. This is the first iteration, so comments regarding the things you like and don't are much appreciated!
post #349 of 1535
Thread Starter 
TMcG, thanks for the soundproofing links. Any idea on how those compare to whisper clips. I can dig through the test data on the websites, but sometimes it's a bit tough to get apples to apples comparisons.

You make a good point about dropping the ceiling down below the beam. My only concern is I have a limited ceiling height on the riser at the back. It's about 7'-10" from the riser to the ceiling without floor coverings or soffits. So I'm trying to keep as much height there as possible. With that said, though, if it gets to be too much trouble, I may do what you're suggesting.

Keep the comments coming
post #350 of 1535
I like the ceiling, I guess it's also a question of getting the right mix of reflective and absorbing surfaces to get properly balanced acoustics from the room. Possibly the hardest task (and most underestimated aspect) of designing such a project IMO.
post #351 of 1535
I was going to ask if you had seen Swithey's theater/ceiling. But looks like his pictures are down.
post #352 of 1535
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by roadster-s View Post

I like the ceiling, I guess it's also a question of getting the right mix of reflective and absorbing surfaces to get properly balanced acoustics from the room. Possibly the hardest task (and most underestimated aspect) of designing such a project IMO.

+1. I'm not sure how the solid surfaces will affect my acoustic plan, but I'd like to have my design done, before I have the acoustic plan finished. That way they can tell me if I need to make any changes (e.g. open bottom on my soffits covered with fabric).

Quote:
Originally Posted by dc_pilgrim View Post

I was going to ask if you had seen Swithey's theater/ceiling. But looks like his pictures are down.

I have not seen it. I'll try to send a PM to see if I can get the pics.

Here's another slightly different version with everything slimmed down just a bit. It doesn't look a lot different, but it is a bit. I can always add some trim to the bottom of the middle sections to make them a little less massive.

EDIT: Added a before and after


Before:


After:


I'll have to dig around some more and see if I can come up with anymore designs.
post #353 of 1535
With the latest rendering you are headed in the right direction. It looks "lighter" now, but while it looks better, it is still not quite "there" yet.

While I don't think you have settled on colors yet for what it is worth, I do like the red and grey color scheme. Something to think about, especially since you don't have much to think about ATM.

Regards,

RTROSE
post #354 of 1535
Thread Starter 
Thanks for the vote on the colors. I've always liked the red/black and red/gray, but I'm trying to stay open minded. I'm sure I'll fiddle with the colors more when I get bored with ceilings

I think you're right, RT. There's still something a bit off with the proportions. I'll have to work on it a bit more.

In the mean time, I had another idea and figured I'd better get it down before I forgot it. I kinda hope you guys don't like this one because it'd be a royal pain to build! I thought I'd do something that goes a little more with the column design, but I think it's a bit much. Here goes anyway.

post #355 of 1535
What looks wrong in the previous renders IMHO is that you don't have a "beam" going around the perimeter, so there is an "open" side that terminates on the cove trim. Why not just a simple 9-pocket coffered ceiling to go with the traditional style of your columns? It would save you a ton of work!
post #356 of 1535
Thread Starter 
I may very well end up with the standard coffered ceiling. By the time I get to the ceiling, I may be so burned out that I just want to be finished. But now, while I'm still fresh and full of enthusiasm (my friends say I'm full of something that smells bad), I thought I'd like to do something a little different from everyone else. Something to really give my space a personality of its own.
post #357 of 1535
Quote:
Originally Posted by J_P_A View Post

Here it is again with the vertical parts of the soffit in the wood color.



The intersections of the "beams" have a lot of visual weight. If you intend those intersections to be focal points, you might want to consider adding medallions or something to break up the flat plane. On the other hand, if you intend the focal points to be the star fields in the open areas between the beams, then I think the visual weight of those beam intersections is working against you.

You might try modeling traditional square beams and adding the curves with separate trim pieces inset from the face of the beams. Maybe that would lighten up the intersections and still give you the unique look you're going for.

Personally, I don't care much for the notches. The big circles or curves are kind of cool, but I'm not digging those notches.

I don't know if it matters to you, but working with big curves like that means it will all be custom work -- no "off the shelf" mouldings. It's perfectly do-able, but the custom nature of the work will likely take longer and cost more.
post #358 of 1535
Thread Starter 
Good ideas! I was considering adding some sort of embellishment in the intersections, but hadn't thought about it much further. Moldings and the like are tough to model in Sketchup.

I like the idea of using the traditional coffered ceiling with the smaller curved bits in between. I'll see what I can put together in Sketchup and see how it looks. Of course, I'll post it for everyone's review once I get it done

I haven't figured out what I am going to do about the curved moldings yet. That's still in the "worry about it later" file.
post #359 of 1535
Quote:
Originally Posted by J_P_A View Post

I haven't figured out what I am going to do about the curved moldings yet. That's still in the "worry about it later" file.

This photo shows how most large-radius wood mouldings are made:



The photo is from the end of the Big Red Theater build thread. Greg had the mouldings made by radiusmillwork.com.

Several companies offer flexible mouldings made from polyurethane resin. Example: www.flexiblemouldingconcepts.com. They would have to be faux-finished to look like wood.
post #360 of 1535
I kind of like the ceiling. I think the render is partly to blame-- if it were a darker, richer color it would look completely different.

What would really be kick-a-s is if you dropped the coffer a few inches so the black ceiling above was continuous.. then install a star ceiling. It would be like looking at the sky through skylights.

Tim
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