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The Plains Theater - Page 15

post #421 of 959
That front entryway with the big staircase is beautiful.

Congrats on the new addition as well!
post #422 of 959
Thread Starter 
Thanks and thanks

We really like the way the steps look, and it really fits with the house. We decided to go this route over a narrower staircase with a handrail across the front. I think that would have looked out of place.

And of course, we're insanely proud of the new baby!
post #423 of 959
Quote:
Originally Posted by J_P_A View Post

We really like the way the steps look, and it really fits with the house. We decided to go this route over a narrower staircase with a handrail across the front.


Good choice!

Also congrats on the new baby, hope everyone is doing well!
post #424 of 959
Congrats on the new baby! And the house is looking great!!
post #425 of 959
Congrats man, what a milestone. A new baby and a new house. Does not get much better. Enjoy!

Regards,

RTROSE
post #426 of 959
Congrats on the baby! Don't remember if you said...is this your first? If so, welcome to the brotherhood of Dads. There are a ton of members, but embarrassingly few that are "Courageous" about it! I can tell which you are. (by the way, it's a good time for you to watch that movie).

How much property total? We're on 3 acres. That gave birth to one of my other hobbies, tractors! Give some thought to it if you haven't. They are a bit more up front money than mowers, but they will last your lifetime, and save you alot of back ache. Mine could blow up tomorrow and it has already paid its due. In the last month alone, mine has dug holes to plant 40-50 plants, dug post holes for a fence, moved a pile of dirt from stockpile to fill in sink holes around the property, graded out our gravel drive smooth, mowed a few times, mowed a neighbors field ($), dug a drainage ditch that filled in over the years, moved firewood from the farm to the porch, tilled up our vegetable garden, tilled up patches for new grass seed, brought 50 gallons of water out to some remote trees that needed it, pushed a huge fallen pine tree out of our way and took all the kiddos on a hay ride! Oh, and takes me to pick up the mail in the evenings. Most of those things are a few hundred if you call someone in to do it. And, you'd miss all the fun.

Okay, infommercial over.
post #427 of 959
Thread Starter 
Thanks, guys! Mom and the baby are doing great! The little guy has good lungs, too

Tony, this is our second. Both boys. Our first son is 2-1/2, so I think the two will have lots of fun in a couple years. Being a dad is a lot of work, and it can be frustrating at times, but its the greatest job in the world. Its amazing how proud you can be of something as simple as a hug from your little boy. I haven't seen that movie, but I've had several people tell me it's a powerful message. It's on my list when we get moved into the new house for sure.

As far as tractors go, I would love to have one! We've got three acres, but only about an acre of yard to cut. The rest is wooded. Hopefully it'll be in the budget one day. It certainly would have been handy for clearing our lot
post #428 of 959
Bueller........Bueller.......Bueller...........

Come on man! We need updates!

Regards,

RTROSE
post #429 of 959
Thread Starter 
Oh yeah, I've got a thread on here. I almost forgot

In reality, I haven't taken any new pictures lately. There's been progress, but nothing really photo worthy. It's all little stuff here and there. The painters have been working a little at the time, most of the counters are in, and the electricians have started putting in receptacles and the like, but nothings happened lately that makes me stand back and feel like a lot of progress has been made. I do think we're getting close, though. However, I think we did have a bit of a grass failure. Because we have such a large yard, we tried to seed it with centipede. After three weeks of watering three times a day, we've got very little germination. I think we're going to look at trying again next week (or maybe something else )

In other news, since I can't actually work in my theater, I've been working on a sketch up model of the framing of the theater that I hope I can use to figure out where to route HVAC etc. it's already let me get a head start on a few issues with my soundproofing plan. I'm hoping that better planning on the front end will make for a smoother install.

Well, enough rambling. I'll try to get some pictures this weekend and post them for you guys. My picture to word ratio is getting way out of whack
post #430 of 959
Thread Starter 
Here's a couple of pics showing the current status of the exterior. You can see where we tried to seed and straw. Still not sure what we're going to do about the grass. Sod is just not a realistic option.



Here's a pic of the back. We really like the cedar detail at the peak of the back porch!



As far as theater updates go, I've been in touch with Ted and John at the Soundproofing company, and they've been a great help! I'm trying to get my soundproofing strategy in order now in hopes of minimizing the head scratching later.
post #431 of 959
What about spraying that bluish green stuff on the lawn that has the seeds in it? I don't know what it is called and I personally haven't tried it, but I've seen workers on the side of the road applying it before.

Edit: It looks like it is called "hydroseeding".

http://www.blmlandscaping.com/hydroseeding
post #432 of 959
Hydroseed. We had it in our backyard with mixed results. You still need to cover it to keep it damp. Ours mostly burnt up. Was interesting though to see it growing grass on the side of the house where they got a little sloppy.
post #433 of 959
Thread Starter 
We looked at hydroseeding, but it was going to be a good bit more expensive. The main reason is the people that did our landscaping are the same ones that did some of the finish grading and things like piping the downspouts underground.

Also, as vanice said, you still have to keep it moist, so there doesn't seem to be much advantage over regular seed and straw. I kept the sprinklers going on it 3 times a day for three weeks solid. There are a few places that probably got too much water, but I still would have expected to get some germination.

We'll see what they say?
post #434 of 959
Thread Starter 
While getting everyone ready today, my 2 y.o. was banging away on the piano and I started having second thoughts about my sound isolation plans. Now I'm thinking, DD+GG on the back side of the floor above, then maybe room within a room + clips + channel + 3 or 4 layers of drywall rolleyes.gif

In all seriousness, my wife mentioned that in a few more years he will likely be taking some kind of lessons for something. Piano, guitar, tuba, who knows. I took the opportunity to remind her that I was planning to go to a lot of trouble to sound isolate the theater. biggrin.gif
post #435 of 959
J_P_A,

Your home is simply stunning! I can't begin to tell how beautiful it is. All of the elements came together really well, you, your wife, and your designer all have a great eye for detail. I hear you on the music lessons. If you think you are going to travel down that path I can assure you sound proofing will help you keep your sanity! Two hours of "practice" on the same song done very badly will be enough to test any one's mettle. eek.gif

Regards,

RTROSE
post #436 of 959
I think it is the wrong time of the year to try to seed. They will just get going good when hot July and August roll around. The tall fescue varieties that we use in this zone do best in the fall.
post #437 of 959
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by RTROSE View Post

J_P_A,
Your home is simply stunning! I can't begin to tell how beautiful it is. All of the elements came together really well, you, your wife, and your designer all have a great eye for detail..........

I really appreciate the compliments RT! So far, we're extremely happy with the way it's turned out. We feel like we ended up with a design that's classic, and hopefully not trendy. You can drive around our area and see houses that you can guess pretty close to when they were built by the architecture. In 10 years, we don't want people to drive by and say, "Yep, that house was built in 2012." There are a lot of designs in our area now that I really like, but I'm afraid it will end up being the "2012 style." At any rate, I appreciate the compliment and third party approval smile.gif
Quote:
Originally Posted by BIGmouthinDC View Post

I think it is the wrong time of the year to try to seed. They will just get going good when hot July and August roll around. The tall fescue varieties that we use in this zone do best in the fall.

I think you're right, BIG. When we seeded the majority of the yard a little over a month ago, it was prime time. Now, we're a little late in the season. But if we tried to sod even what's left, we'd be looking at thousands of $$ I'm afraid. Of course, I'm still not sure we've got any centipede growing in what we seeded mad.gif

On another note, I've been working on a scale model of the theater that's accurate down to the framing. I've put in clips, channel, drywall, etc., and I think it's been a worthwhile effort. It's certainly brought up a few points that I needed to work through ahead of time. Things like how to deal with clips and channel around my door that's jammed in the corner. How the channel should be run into the corners. Lots of little stuff that I would have had to think through on the fly otherwise.

TheaterFramingSideView.jpg
TheaterModelWithDrywall.jpg

The thing I'm working on now is the beam in the middle. I'm still not happy with how the drywall will overlap (or not) there. I can't get the staggered seam between the ceiling and wall because of the way the beam drops down a little past the second layer of drywall. I may end up adding a couple extra layers next to the wall there that will be hidden by the soffits. Of course, I still have to come up with a ceiling design to hide that drywall as well............. So many things to consider.

TheaterOnly_IncludesFraming-2.jpg
post #438 of 959
Quote:
Originally Posted by J_P_A View Post

The thing I'm working on now is the beam in the middle. I'm still not happy with how the drywall will overlap (or not) there. I can't get the staggered seam between the ceiling and wall because of the way the beam drops down a little past the second layer of drywall. I may end up adding a couple extra layers next to the wall there that will be hidden by the soffits.

It appears you have clips and channel on every wall surface but nothing on the ceiling surface - am I reading this correctly? If so, why wouldn't you just use clips and channels on either side of the beam and then just bridge your double layer of drywall over the main support beam? Should be very easy to do and yield you a perfectly flat ceiling to use as a "blank canvas".
post #439 of 959
Thread Starter 
Sorry, you can't see the clips and channel in that pic. Here's the ceiling behind the drywall, and if I understand what you're saying correctly, I think I've done what you recommended. The problem is the clips and channel are about 1-3/8". Add a layer of 5/8" and you're at 2", which is what my beam hangs down. Then add another 1/2" for space between the beam and the first layer of drywall, and you've just about taken up the first two layers.

TheaterModelCeilingClipsChannel.jpg

I could add spacers under my clips so that the first layer of drywall (or in my case OSB) clears the beam by 1/2", but then I'd be losing about 1-1/4" of ceiling height. This is the reason I've been considering a coffered ceiling to hide this.

EDIT: Ignore the clip locations. I've still got to work out the pattern. My joists are not evenly spaced due to the use of double joists and LVL's.
post #440 of 959
Thanks for the clarification and the additional render with the ceiling detail. Yes, you have it exactly as I suggested - I thought the combination of the clip and resilient channel would provide the needed height to get past that beam. The fix is very easy, though....simply attach 1x3 strapping to the ceiling to fur things down another 3/4". Ideally they would be secured perpendicular to your existing joists and then the clips and channel would be perpendicular to the furring (parallel with the joists). This will leave you about a 1/4" of gap past the beam. I don't think changes in temperature will have appreciable effect on the drywall ever touching the beam with this size of gap - especially since the ceiling will want to deflect downward with gravity over time. If it is a significant concern, you could always take a router to the first layer of 5/8" drywall where that beam is and give yourself another 1/4" or so on the backside of the drywall facing the beam to yield a bit of extra room. Here's a pic of furring - very common in the New England states: http://i173.photobucket.com/albums/w67/143house/demolition/P1010313.jpg
post #441 of 959
Thread Starter 
Thanks for the tip and the link! Using 1x's like that would certainly be simple, and it would give me attachment points at 16" O.C. My only concern is whether or not the 1x's would be strong enough to support Clips + Channel + OSB + Drywall. Since my joists are not uniformly spaced, I would have clips attached to nothing but the 1x's in most places. I don't think it would be a problem with drywall attached directly to the 1x's as it provides a more distributed load. The load will be more of point load.

Also, I've seen a video showing how much a wall with clips and channel moves when you hit it. It's quite a bit. I'll see if I can find the video and post a link. I realize I'll have gravity working in my favor here, but I've got plans for some massive subs biggrin.gif

EDIT:
Here's that video that BIG made. I'll try to figure out how to imbed it. It's hard to tell just how much it's moving, but there's certainly more than I would have expected.
Edited by J_P_A - 6/12/12 at 3:19pm
post #442 of 959
To play it safe, you could just rip 3/4" plywood into strips the same width as your engineered joists and attach with some construction adhesive and 1.5" exterior grade screws, essentially extending the underside of each joist. Then you could still attach your clips directly to the joists as you have rendered above with total peace of mind.

I watched BIG's video, but I have to say that you would not see anywhere near that type of movement if he were to punch the ceiling with his fist because of the heavy connected load. The wall load's force is still downward and BIG was pushing against it, perpendicular to gravity. Hitting the ceiling with the same force would show significantly less flex since you are going directly against the downward gravitational load.

And let's face it, even if you loaded your room with high-powered subwoofers and watched some sort of explosion-based Michael Bay film, the amount of pressure your subs generate amounts to only hundreds of an inch in vibrational movement. And don't forget you have a layer of Green Glue turning that energy into heat as a first layer of defense against transference of mechanical forces into the structure of your home....let alone the channel and decoupling clips loaded with neoprene. The only chance of significant movement of your walls and ceilings would be if there happens to be a resonant frequency where everything in the room vibrates. But any well-tuned theater will have these room boundary gains (resonant frequencies) dealt with in proper calibration and equalization for flat response.
post #443 of 959
Kinetics has some alternatives to clips:

icw.jpg

http://www.kineticsnoise.com/arch/ceilings.aspx
post #444 of 959
I used the Kinetics ceiling hangers in my last home theater and I have to say - there is nothing that I have used since that provides that same high level of isolation - they truly are a step above. However, they are expensive and a bit finicky to install. The cold rolled steel "C" channel is also not a product that a lot of distributors have readily available. I had to travel 90 miles (after endless phone calls) to find a supplier that had this specific gauge "C" channel in stock. The springs also have some very slight deflection over time, so the seams in my finished carpentry began to show some slight gaps of settling over a period of approximately 6 years. Still, a great product and will definitely achieve JPA's goal of getting under that beam - but my suspicion is at significantly more cost. If I recall, each hanger is in the $27 to $35 EACH range, depending on which spring load rate you order, fyi.
post #445 of 959
Hard to justify the cost of these when your walls don't have a similar treatment. The weakest link, etc.
post #446 of 959
Thread Starter 
Thanks for the info on the Kinetics products, but I think you guys talked me out of it already wink.gif The cost would be prohibitive, but the thought of the ceiling sagging over time is a turn off. I'm pretty particular about the fit and finish of trim work.

And, Ted and John have been extremely helpful (and patient) in answering my numerous questions about their products and how to install them. So far, it sounds like we've got a few options for how to install their clips and channel. It's just a matter of choosing the best compromise between performance and ceiling height.
post #447 of 959
I wonder if you could literally hang the drywall (wall) from a row of ceiling springs.

Ted & John are helpful. The information / construction techniques they give away for free is better than stuff I've paid for in the past.
post #448 of 959
If it were mine, I'd probably block down the joists till you could have a perfectly smooth ceiling. For the inch or two of headroom it would cost, it'd be nice to have the smooth finish.
post #449 of 959
Quote:
Originally Posted by rabident View Post

I wonder if you could literally hang the drywall (wall) from a row of ceiling springs.

Nope
post #450 of 959
Quote:
Originally Posted by JTR7 View Post

If it were mine, I'd probably block down the joists till you could have a perfectly smooth ceiling. For the inch or two of headroom it would cost, it'd be nice to have the smooth finish.

This is something I was thinking too when I saw the pictures. But if the channel drops the wallboard below the protrusion I guess that's the same thing. A coffered ceiling would be great though, I love the look of them in the pics I've seen, but I guess think about whether it's worth the effort to retain a couple inches. Of course, you might have gone coffered anyway. Your ceiling height makes me jealous... how high is the [unencumbered] ceiling?

Love your sketchup drawings, by the way.
Edited by danielrg - 7/17/12 at 10:24pm
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