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The Plains Theater - Page 21

post #601 of 1535
Thread Starter 
You guys make it tough to leave the credit card in my pocket biggrin.gif

I'm really considering the nail gun. My only hangup is I almost never buy cheap tools. I try to buy professional quality (or pro-sumer quality) tools because you end up paying for it up front or later with cheap ones. However, I'm getting to the point where I don't see myself taking on many more big projects. I've had enough renovations projects for a lifetime! So I can't see spending $200 for a nice one (I like the Hitachi guns BTW smile.gif ) that I will probably only use for finishing this one room in my basement. On the other hand, the $90 NuMax gun worries me that i"ll spend as much time clearing jams as I will driving nails........

Analysis paralysis sets in again smile.gif
post #602 of 1535
I know exactly what you mean about buying cheap tools. I am the same way. I will say, however, that I shot over 1000 nails with the Husky while building my deck without a single jam. The only problem that I had was once when the number of nails in the gun got very low (2 or 3), it didn't feed the next one properly. Once I stuck another pack in though it worked fine.
post #603 of 1535
Thread Starter 
I wish that Husky set was still on sale, I'd probably pick one up. Looks like it's out of stock online and the framing nailer alone is $159 now.
post #604 of 1535
I bought a used framing nailer through amazon. I paid $75 for a pro model (bostitch), but it still needed $25 worth of repair to get it going (leaking/bad trigger valve). The seller was a pawn shop or something like that, or I would have sent it back. Now that it's working, it's great. And as a "bonus" I got to learn how it is put together, by rebuilding it.
post #605 of 1535
Quote:
Toe nailing is a lot easier as well.

Indeed.

post #606 of 1535
Thread Starter 
I've started looking around on Craigslist, but nothing of interest locally. I'll stop by Amazon next, and see if anything looks interesting.

Mr. Logan, that picture reminds me of an incident I witnessed on a summer job in high school. A guy shot a nail through his thumb, or halfway at least since surgeon had to remove it. I distinctly remember that the expletive that guy used was not nearly as strong as what I'd have said eek.gif Ah..... the good 'ol days.
post #607 of 1535
I bought one from Harbor Freight to do my basement, and it's held up fine for a lot of different projects. I'm not making a living off of it, so I didn't really need a nice one. I definitely got my money out of it. Spend your money on good nails, it acually makes a difference in the performance of the gun. HF nails are terrible.
post #608 of 1535
Quote:
Originally Posted by J_P_A View Post

I keep clicking on that "link" in your signature, but I can't seem to get it to work. Maybe I need to update my browser or something biggrin.gif Hint hint!

Ahem..... The Stonewater Cinema build thread link is now active... biggrin.gif
post #609 of 1535
Quote:
Originally Posted by J_P_A View Post

FYI, I called Panasonic about using a speed controller on these fans. They said that they have NOT tested these fans with a speed controller, but I could use one if I wanted to.
Ummmm. That's a little ambiguous, but that's all I could get out of them. I "think" these are permanent split capacitor motors, so they should work with the controller.

Quote:
Originally Posted by 235 View Post

I also got a vague response from Panasonic on that same question. I'm thinking of ordering one in the next few days with the expectation that it will work. Let us know if you get more info about this...thx

Hey JPA. I hope all is well. A follow-up on the question above - did you ever order the PID and test it with the Panasonic fan?

Any updates on the theater or has grad school kept you busy?
post #610 of 1535
Thread Starter 
Sadly, no updates. Between grad school, and the part time job I've had to pick up to pay for it, I've had very little time to work on the theater lately. Hopefully things will improve after the first of the year.

I have not tested the fan with a speed controller either. I'm planning to see how it works at full speed before I complicate the matter. However, if I understand the motor design correctly, I can't think of a reason it shouldn't work. Of course, you know what they say, "thinking just gets in the way of the job." biggrin.gif
post #611 of 1535
Chin up my friend. Life gets in the way sometimes. But here is how I look at it. Grad School and the second job might be cutting into your time now, but you are doing this so you have more time/resources later so the payoff is greater than the sacrifice. One step at a time and little bits here and there will add up.

Regards,

RTROSE
post #612 of 1535
Quote:
Originally Posted by J_P_A View Post

Sadly, no updates. Between grad school, and the part time job I've had to pick up to pay for it, I've had very little time to work on the theater lately. Hopefully things will improve after the first of the year.

Um, man listen. School and work gettin in the way of the THEATER!?

You need to get your priorities straight! JK tongue.gif
post #613 of 1535
The sacrifices you are making now will pay for themselves many times over in the future. More time with the family and theater. More importantly - you will be able to afford more toys for the theater.biggrin.gif
post #614 of 1535
JPA, do you get a lengthy break from school this month? I just started what will be 5 weeks of break for myself! It feels great! Hope you get to slow down around the holidays.

tony
post #615 of 1535
Thread Starter 
Thanks for all the kind words! We'll keep plugging away at it; It's just taking longer than I'd hoped. That's for both the theater and grad school biggrin.gif

Tony, yes and no. Classes finished up last week, and don't start back until the second week of January (I think). But I've been finished with classes for a few semesters now. I'm working on research full time. Unfortunately, we've hit a bit of snag that's slowing things down mad.gif We'll get it figured out sooner or later, though.
post #616 of 1535
Thread Starter 
It's amazing how fast a month goes by, especially over Christmas break. I have ben able to get a tiny bit done, though. Mostly by working an hour here and there. I've managed to get all of my furring strips up on the ceiling. Thanks to all the pier pressure here, I picked up a framing nailer, and it went a LOT faster. I think I will still go back and add a screw in each joist just for good measure, but that will still be a lot faster than using screws exclusively! Without further ado!



And here's the beam that caused all of the trouble to begin with. Once I add clips and channel, my drywall should clear the bottom of that beam by 5/8". Ted recommended 1/2", so it's tough to get much better than that.



As you can see, I've also got all the of insulation up in the ceiling.

Next on the to-do list is blocking in all of the exterior walls followed by the rest of the insulation (I'll be glad to finish that up!). After that, it's rough in the door, and start with clips and channel.

Speaking of doors, the existing rough opening is much wider than I need, and the hardwood is run into the doorway. I've been planning to cut out enough of the hardwood to accommodate the additional framing for my door, but I'm not sure it's necessary. I think I could just nail my bottom plate straight down through the hardwoods. Any thoughts?
post #617 of 1535
Thread Starter 
Time for another minor update. I've got most of the blocking finished, I just need to pick up a couple extra 2x's for the extra studs in the corners to give me a place to attach clips. I've also picked up my insulation for the walls (half faced for interior walls, and half unfaced for the exterior walls). I decided it was time for the obligatory blue tape screen. So here you go! Ignore the mess BTW, I need to pick up terribly.



To be honest, I was a little underwhelmed. That's 138" wide, and I sat my temporary theater seating at 1x width (that'd be the blue Lowes bucket in the picture). I realize it has a lot to do with all the empty space on either side. With that in mind, I started playing with some screen wall layouts. Here are the two that I like best at this point (the stage is the difference between the two).





I need to get this finalized so that I can add my extra clips for the soffit. Advice and opinions are much appreciated!
post #618 of 1535
Things are looking good JPA! I would absolutely kill for your room's width and not having a steel beam that hangs underneath all the ceiling joists, but enough about my problems. rolleyes.gif

I like the clean lines of the top rendering. I don't think having the stage protruding is of any visual benefit. The only tweak I would make to the top rendering is to have the soffit angles mirror the angles and widths of the "columns" to either side of the screen. Maybe it is already drawn this way, but to my eyes the soffit angle looks to be on a different plane and at a different width than the column angle. Just my 2 cents.

I was just taking a break from hanging double layers of 5/8" drywall in my own theater. I have been downstairs since 6:45 this morning and had to get a bite to eat and some caffeine to push through. I know you did the same thing for a good part of your theater....what a thankless, crappy job all in the name of soundproofing.

Keep up the good work.
post #619 of 1535
Quote:
Originally Posted by J_P_A View Post

To be honest, I was a little underwhelmed. That's 138" wide, and I sat my temporary theater seating at 1x width (that'd be the blue Lowes bucket in the picture). I realize it has a lot to do with all the empty space on either side. With that in mind, I started playing with some screen wall layouts. Here are the two that I like best at this point (the stage is the difference between the two).



I need to get this finalized so that I can add my extra clips for the soffit. Advice and opinions are much appreciated!

138" wide is huge, my friend! Trust me, once the GWB goes up the space will feel completely different.

Are your renderings allowing for space behind the screen? I'd rather have more space behind the screen than the angled walls in front of it, but I've seen it work nicely in other theaters. You may also want to consider a shadowbox on all four sides to absorb any spillage. I personally like the way a deep shadowbox looks (aesthetically)

Tim
post #620 of 1535
Thread Starter 
Thanks for the feedback guys! Much appreciated.

TMcG, I feel for you hanging that drywall! That is no fun, and I don't look forward to ever doing it again. The angles in the soffit do match the "columns." It's hard to find a way to rotate the image where everything is in perspective all at once smile.gif Good point about the stage not providing anything visually.

Tim, I've allowed 30" behind the screen for my LCR and subs, but my layout from Dennis has my L/R pulled forward a bit, so I need to add the columns for that. Also, I felt like the columns would help make the screen look like it filled the front wall more.

How deep would a shadowbox need to be to be effective?

Thanks again, guys!
post #621 of 1535
I'm at 168", and you couldn't convince me to go any smaller. I believe that projector technology has finally caught up to my desire for the IMAX experience. Nothing like being overwhelmed by your screen! Yes, 138" is huge, but you will find yourself (in time) wanting larger.

If it's even a doubt in your mind, then build the screen as large as will fit and then mask down to a comfortable size. The few hundred you pay now will buy you the option to open up the masking in the future.
post #622 of 1535
Thread Starter 
Good point, Tony. When I originally laid out the theater, I was planning to go with the same size screen that you have. After reading, and reading, and reading, I started to second guess that, and then I got my plans back from Dennis, and even asked that question, and he didn't like the idea of going larger. I think I need to revisit the idea, though.

In the mean time, here's a model with a 6" shadow box. I added a little color to help make everything a little easier to see.

post #623 of 1535
I like it.

You could always make the columns a bit smaller and make the shadowbox kinda "minimalist approach to screen wall"-ish, that way you could always get a bigger screen.

Tim
post #624 of 1535
I like the smaller stage too. How much sand did you want to carry?
post #625 of 1535
It's not popular opinion. But that's why we all get to call the shots for our own rooms. wink.gif

I vote for the second option.
post #626 of 1535
I could not really pick between the two renders that you had as I liked details from both. I like the third render the best (with the shadow box), but for me I would extend the bottom step out a little. It just looks a little short (visually speaking) but it could just be the rendering angle. Otherwise you have the RTROSE seal of approval (not that you needed it) on the render. If you can like Tony and others suggest, keep the option of going bigger in the plan. It is always easier to "mask down" and go with a smaller screen than it is to start small and then try to go bigger. Of course as your room changes and all that empty stud space gets filled you just may change your mind (again).

Glad to see that you are at least making some progress.

Regards,

RTROSE
post #627 of 1535
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr.Tim View Post

.....You could always make the columns a bit smaller and make the shadowbox kinda "minimalist approach to screen wall"-ish, that way you could always get a bigger screen.....

If I keep the columns, I'm not sure that I can make them too much smaller. I still need space to get speakers at least partly in there and have them toed in. If i leave a 1" border between the columns and shadow box, I end up with a 152" wide screen. How would a shadow box look if I still use masking panels? From looking at this latest render, it's hard to think of a reason not to go with the larger scree for now. Assuming I can make masking panels that will look good with the shadowbox.



Fred, you may have made my decision about the size of the stage with that one comment! I'm already trying to figure out how to make that trip as short as possible between the truck and the stage!

Tony, why does this remind me of the little guy with horns on my shoulder, "Go ahead, get the big one. It won't hurt anything! You'll be fine!" biggrin.gif

RT, with regard to the step, do you mean make the arc larger, or move the entire step forward?
post #628 of 1535
I like your 3rd option. However if those side columns are meant to hide your main speakers then you might want to consider which layout best addresses the speaker placement you need.
post #629 of 1535
Thread Starter 
As far as I can figure, the columns just let me pull the speakers forward into the room. With eyes at roughly 12.5' from the screen, I think that puts the speakers at about 7.5' from the centerline, or about 2.5' from the side wall. This just buys me a little space between the speakers and the walls. At least, I assume that's why the layout shows the speakers moved forward of the screen. Now that I think about it, that's probably not as important for a sealed L/R.
post #630 of 1535
Quote:
Originally Posted by J_P_A View Post

If I keep the columns, I'm not sure that I can make them too much smaller. I still need space to get speakers at least partly in there and have them toed in. If i leave a 1" border between the columns and shadow box, I end up with a 152" wide screen. How would a shadow box look if I still use masking panels? From looking at this latest render, it's hard to think of a reason not to go with the larger scree for now. Assuming I can make masking panels that will look good with the shadowbox.



Fred, you may have made my decision about the size of the stage with that one comment! I'm already trying to figure out how to make that trip as short as possible between the truck and the stage!

Tony, why does this remind me of the little guy with horns on my shoulder, "Go ahead, get the big one. It won't hurt anything! You'll be fine!" biggrin.gif

RT, with regard to the step, do you mean make the arc larger, or move the entire step forward?

I agree with RT, I would move the step and stage top forward. I would place the end of the step at the corner where the angle starts on the column. I think this would be a compromise between your two thoughts and maybe help reduce the visual of the columns a bit. To me they seem a bit overbearing when more of the base of the column is visible to the floor. Just my 2 cents.
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