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The Plains Theater - Page 24

post #691 of 1001
Thread Starter 
Another update, and a near crisis.

I got part of the "fireblocking" in. I'm waiting to do the other half of the room pending a decision on whether to put Roxul around the top of my exterior walls. Everything passed my framing inspection, but there is clearly a gap between the top plate and the concrete wall. It's odd that this wasn't a problem considering that they went through and foamed all of the holes where wires come through the plates. Decisions, decisions. You are probably thinking that the drywall up there looks terrible, but remember that you and I are the only ones that will ever know it's there. So, if you won't tell, I won't either.



I also started on adding clips to the walls. I got three rows done on one long wall and across the back of the "nook." Again, that laser level is a life saver. BTW, how do you guys like my tripod extender?



I really need to cleanup, but our yard is so waterlogged from all the rain that I'm afraid to take my truck back there for fear of tearing up the yard. It'll just have to wait.

Now for the crisis, I checked with Ted about using 1-5/8x8 screws on the ceiling since my furring strips on the ceiling are only 1-1/2" thick. I got the go ahead, and proceeded to finish up my clips on the ceiling. Last night, I started on the walls, and as soon as I grabbed a handful of the 2"x8 screws, I knew they were different. They are noticeably larger diameter. I checked with Ted this morning, and he said as long as they're not drywall screws, it's not a problem. Next time, I'll just follow the directions, though smile.gif And I assure you, the boxes for both of those screws say they're #8s.



Again, a huge thanks to Ted and company for their fast responses to my questions. I'm sure I've asked enough questions that they've considered upcharging my next order smile.gif
post #692 of 1001
Crisis averted. Totally agree on the support from Ted and John. I may have given you a run for your money on the number of questions I asked too. Can't say it often enough how great those guys are.
post #693 of 1001
The gap between the top plate and foundation wall is an inspection issue that is only considered by inspectors who take fire-blocking seriously. Some inspectors will accept the fact that the wall is insulated as sufficient, some could care even less. It is the luck of the draw. If you've had your close in inspection you are good to go. If you still need your insulation inspection there is one more chance for them to bring it up. After the room is drywalled what is behind the wall stays behind the wall. What happens after an inspection and before the drywall goes up is your business.
post #694 of 1001
Thread Starter 
Thanks BIG, I was actually thinking of the finished areas in the basement that are framed the same way (except they didn't get any insulation). I realize this has been a point of debate on the boards here, but I have not had the room inspected. Perhaps I need to call and see if they feel the need to.

BTW, have you run across this issue with the screw sizes?
post #695 of 1001
I had an extensive chat with my inspector about this very same thing since I built walls in front of other walls. He wanted me to use Great Stuff spray foam to seal the gap between the top plate of my theater wall and the other basement wall behind it. I asked if I should be using the same red fireproof foam typically used for wire / pipe penetrations since the whole intent of putting anything in there was to prevent the spread of fire...and that the Great Stuff foam he was recommending is flammable! He said "No, just use the Great Stuff and I'll pass it". Well, I had a different inspector come by and told him my preference of NOT having anything couple by decouple walls - even if it was just foam. I told him that no electricity was going to be run in the walls and that I would be running electric after the soundproof shell is complete. He gave the OK to not use anything to fill that gap, saying there was no further fire risk if the gap remained - almost the same as if the theater area was unfinished space. I doubt code addresses this specific issue with certainty, hence the uncertainty in interpretation and path forward. My point is that you may want to let the inspector know that you don't have any electric in the walls (assuming you don't) and see how that changes his opinion.
post #696 of 1001
Foam is only approved to fill the annular space around pipes, wires at al that penetrate wood fireblocking. You would use these products where wires and pipes penetrate the top and sole plates. They are not approved as a substitute for fireblocking.

Both regular Great Stuff and the orange foam that costs twice as much are approved for the use in sealing around penetrations.

Both tightly fitted fiberglass insulation and mineral wool are approved types of fireblocking. You can simply stuff that small area with either of these, not be coupled, and be compliant.

Tim
post #697 of 1001
Thread Starter 
Just talked to our building inspector. Extremely nice and helpful. Looks like I'll be picking up a building permit and having everything inspected. It also looks like I'll need to get more insulation stuffed into the walls. After all that agonizing over having insulation touching my concrete, now I'm just going to go stuff it in there on purpose smile.gif
post #698 of 1001
Thread Starter 
In case anyone is interested, I called Grip Rite to see what they had to say about the two different sizes of their #8 screws. To summarize, they said, "it's a box of screws," and, "we get them from China," and my favorite, "you get what you get." So there you have it.

I'm a little spoiled by the customer service I get from Ted and John smile.gif
post #699 of 1001
Quote:
Originally Posted by J_P_A View Post

In case anyone is interested, I called Grip Rite to see what they had to say about the two different sizes of their #8 screws. To summarize, they said, "it's a box of screws," and, "we get them from China," and my favorite, "you get what you get." So there you have it.

I'm a little spoiled by the customer service I get from Ted and John smile.gif

Wow... I'll be sure to pass on the grip-rite products whenever I can.
post #700 of 1001
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by xjagox View Post

Wow... I'll be sure to pass on the grip-rite products whenever I can.

yeah, no kidding! I was expecting something along the lines of manufacturing tolerances. When I mentioned that, they were quick to agree that must be the cause. I suppose it's only, "a box of screws," after all smile.gif

Minor update, I got the insulation stuffed in the gap at the top of my wall last night. Let me tell you, that was a miserable process! I usually try not to "fluff" the insulation much, and try not to touch it as much as possible. Unfortunately, trying to cram that stuff into a 1/2" gap doesn't really afford you the luxury of being delicate with the stuff smile.gif No pain, no gain, right! It'll all be worth it, though. I'm really looking forward to having this space finished! Needless to say, there are no update pictures. When I finished with this last night I didn't want to stop and pickup the camera. I just wanted a shower ASAP!

I've got a question about the requirement for fire blocking every 10' horizontally, but I think I'll start another thread as it might be useful for others as well.
post #701 of 1001
Thread Starter 
This is a bit of double post since I updated the fire blocking thread as well, but it seemed like useful information. I've finished with my fire blocking. Here's a shot showing the insulation at the top of the wall stuffed between the top plate and the foundation wall as well as the DW I used to provide blocking every 10' horizontally. I used some fire rated caulk to fill the gap between the DW and the foundation.



Here's another shot showing the DW at the top of the wall that I will use to seal my first layer of ceiling DW against. This would not normally be necessary had I not had to fur down my ceiling to clear the beam.



And here's a shot showing an odd section at the back that would have been been compliant except for the furred down ceiling. I just added some 2x6 blocking to give me something to seal against.



I believe I'm ready for first inspection. I'm still waiting on my actual permit, but I should be able to schedule my first inspection immediately. Does anyone know of any "gotchas" that I might be overlooking? I've never had anything inspected before, so I'm not sure what's supposed to be done for each milestone.

And finally, I'm still worrying over the screw issue. Those 1-5/8" screws that are "supposed" to be #8s worry me. I did a little field testing, and they pull out of a 2x before the head snaps off (which according to Ted is the primary concern). I tried running one of the 2" screws into a hole that I backed one of the 1-5/8" screws out of, and it seems to hold well, but it bottoms out. Meaning it's not threaded down the shank far enough, so it turns in the hole without getting any tighter. I'm not sure which situation is preferable. Ted assured me there is nothing to worry about, and I trust his judgement, but I have no experience with this sort of installation, and I keep thinking of the ceiling crashing down on my 3 y.o.

In the end, I'll probably leave the screws I've got up there.
post #702 of 1001
Fire Blocking/Caulk: AINT NOBODY GOT TIME FOR THAT!
post #703 of 1001
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by NicksHitachi View Post

Fire Blocking/Caulk: AINT NOBODY GOT TIME FOR THAT!

That's sort of how I felt about having it inspected to begin with biggrin.gif Then, I started thinking obsessing about fires and my 3 y.o.'s room is right above our theater. I've got a friend who's house burned and it's scary. Welcome to the world of unmedicated Obsessive Compulsive Disorder biggrin.gif

Speaking of obsessing, I've been noodling on the wood screw business. Based on this entirely reliable internet source, it looks like worst case situation for those screws gives a pullout rating around 180 lbs.

p = 15,700 * G^2 * D * L
p = 15,700 * (0.29)^2 * 0.138 * 1
p = 182.2 lbs

According to Ted, each clip only needs to support about 25 lbs. Should be good, just like Ted said smile.gif I'm thinking of trying another field test involving one of the screws, an overhead joist, a hammer, and a large 30 y.o. man that greatly exceeds that 180 lb rating.......... I wish I could find my hard hat wink.gif
post #704 of 1001
Looking good J_P_A!
post #705 of 1001
I secured my clips with hex head screws from McMaster. I had the same (mostly unfounded) concerns, so I just ordered a few boxes and was done with it. Plus the hex was nice for driving overhead.

Tim
post #706 of 1001
Thread Starter 
Thanks, Auburn! It's fun to finally be building it smile.gif

Mr. Tim, at this point my concern is the screws I used "look" like a #6. So now I'm concerned about just reusing the same hole with a true #8. I'm afraid it won't hold as it should. I wish I could find my mic, I'd measure them. I suppose I could use a #10 instead. Analysis paralysis sets in again smile.gif
post #707 of 1001
These screws, i believe, are the ones I used for attaching clips. They seem to be pretty nice, and I figured they would be cheaper/better than whatever I could find at lowes.

I was surprised initially by how large the hole is in the IB-1 clips. You could definitely use larger shaft or larger head screws with no problem.
post #708 of 1001
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr.Tim View Post

Foam is only approved to fill the annular space around pipes, wires at al that penetrate wood fireblocking. You would use these products where wires and pipes penetrate the top and sole plates. They are not approved as a substitute for fireblocking.

Both regular Great Stuff and the orange foam that costs twice as much are approved for the use in sealing around penetrations.

Both tightly fitted fiberglass insulation and mineral wool are approved types of fireblocking. You can simply stuff that small area with either of these, not be coupled, and be compliant.

Tim

I wasn't discussing what is right/wrong for this application - only that there is various interpretation of the codes and relaying what my code guy told me. My personal perspective is that I will not have anything inside the walls whatsoever so fireblocking is not necessary and I eventually argued for what I wanted - which is to NOT put any blocking, foam or anything else between my decoupled walls and any other perimeter wall or other structure.

If I was being forced to do something, then I would argue for mineral wool over the coupling action of a spray foam. I was surprised the first inspector in my area even recommended it for the reasons you cited.
post #709 of 1001
Quote:
Originally Posted by TMcG View Post

I wasn't discussing what is right/wrong for this application - only that there is various interpretation of the codes and relaying what my code guy told me. My personal perspective is that I will not have anything inside the walls whatsoever so fireblocking is not necessary and I eventually argued for what I wanted - which is to NOT put any blocking, foam or anything else between my decoupled walls and any other perimeter wall or other structure.

If I was being forced to do something, then I would argue for mineral wool over the coupling action of a spray foam. I was surprised the first inspector in my area even recommended it for the reasons you cited.

Sorry, that wasn't directed at you per se. It aggravates me that inspectors can't get on the same page when it comes to enforcing the code. Yes, their are plenty of areas for interpretation. However, there are many more areas where the code is extremely clear. A lack of understanding on the part of the inspector leads to non-compliance and an overall resentment on the part of contractors (or DIYers!) when there is no congruity between inspectors.

I try to be very clear when I cite corrections so that there is no confusion. I'm not trying to berate anybody.

Tim
post #710 of 1001
Thread Starter 
I managed to get a little done last night. I only have the top and bottom rows of clips left to finish, and a row on one wall under my sons room. I'll have to find some time during a day to finish up that wall.

Also, my second field test was a success. The 1-5/8" screws I've been worrying over will support..... let's say well over 200# for at least a second or two. I drove one into the furring on my ceiling and left just enough sticking out to get the claw of a hammer under it. I then proceeded to hang from it for just a second. I just knew that thing would pull out and I was going to end up catching that hammer with my head smile.gif Luckily, the screw didn't budge. I feel better knowing it only needs to hold 20-30# and it will hold me up.

Hopefully I will get my building permit soon, and I can schedule my inspection. I have a few extra 10' sheets of drywall that I'd like to see if I can get them on the ceiling by myself before I order enough to finish the room. If it seems like it's going to be too difficult, I'll probably order 8' sheets for the ceilings and 10' sheets for the walls.
post #711 of 1001
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr.Tim View Post

Sorry, that wasn't directed at you per se. It aggravates me that inspectors can't get on the same page when it comes to enforcing the code. Yes, their are plenty of areas for interpretation. However, there are many more areas where the code is extremely clear. A lack of understanding on the part of the inspector leads to non-compliance and an overall resentment on the part of contractors (or DIYers!) when there is no congruity between inspectors.

I try to be very clear when I cite corrections so that there is no confusion. I'm not trying to berate anybody.

Tim

Not to derail the thread, but I didn't get the impression that you were directing or berating me at all. I just wanted to clarify for those following this thread that there seems to be no clear instruction in the code for how to handle these decoupled walls, especially if nothing but insulation is contained within the walls and all of the potential fire-starting "stuff", like electrical, is being surface-mounted....and typically on top of two layers of Type-X fire rated 5/8" drywall.

Your points on fireblocking are completely valid and I thought the first inspector's suggestion to close the gap between my first wall and second wall with flammable Great Stuff foam was completely ridiculous. I even broke off a piece of cured Great Stuff foam from another area of my basement, took it outside and tried to light it on fire. Not only was it not fire-resistant, it actually added fuel to the fire. Now I know they are trying to block the air, but doing so with flammable materials is about the dumbest thing I had ever heard uttered from an inspector. I am just glad I convinced the second inspector that nothing needed to be done and the air gap could stay.

Back to your regularly scheduled programming...
post #712 of 1001
Quote:
Originally Posted by J_P_A View Post

That's sort of how I felt about having it inspected to begin with biggrin.gif Then, I started thinking obsessing about fires and my 3 y.o.'s room is right above our theater. I've got a friend who's house burned and it's scary. Welcome to the world of unmedicated Obsessive Compulsive Disorder biggrin.gif

Speaking of obsessing, I've been noodling on the wood screw business. Based on this entirely reliable internet source, it looks like worst case situation for those screws gives a pullout rating around 180 lbs.

p = 15,700 * G^2 * D * L
p = 15,700 * (0.29)^2 * 0.138 * 1
p = 182.2 lbs

According to Ted, each clip only needs to support about 25 lbs. Should be good, just like Ted said smile.gif I'm thinking of trying another field test involving one of the screws, an overhead joist, a hammer, and a large 30 y.o. man that greatly exceeds that 180 lb rating.......... I wish I could find my hard hat wink.gif

Sounds like a Crazy Glue commercial!

I can give one word of advice unrelated to theater building but safety oriented none the less. I too greatly exceed 180Lbs (have not been below 200 for about 13 years) anyway........back to my safety point. You know those spring loaded shower rods.........Yeah those.........they do NOTHING to help support a plus sized guy from falling OUT of the shower! In fact they do really well at causing additional drywall repair as a 42 year old balance challenged guy grabs anything he can to keep from falling in the shower but ends up OUTSIDE the shower wrapped neatly in the shower curtain! Mrs RTROSE was in the bathroom getting ready, so I could count on her to render assistance right? Nope, not till she was done laughing herself silly. Consider yourself warned......

Regards,

RTROSE
post #713 of 1001
Thread Starter 
RT, I'm not sure what to say about that smile.gif I chuckle every time I think about a grown man in wrestling match with his shower curtain, and obviously getting whipped handily smile.gif Add to that I imagine the shower curtain as being pink and covered in kittens with those sad expressions and unnaturally large eyes biggrin.gif

I'm still waiting on my building permit. Hopefully tomorrow. Unfortunately, the way our weekend is shaping up there won't be any time for theater related activities even if I do get it. mad.gif I don't suppose it would matter, I really need to have my rough-in inspection done before I do much else.
post #714 of 1001
^^^^^Well here is hoping that your inspection goes well. Gotta love all the governmental red tape.

Well I hate to ruin your mental image of the shower curtain, but it is slightly more manly than the one you describe, but only just. biggrin.gif

Regards,

RTROSE
post #715 of 1001
Thread Starter 
LALALALALA!!!!! I can't hear you! I see pink kitten covered shower curtain! Although, I think I may have spent a little too much time thinking about this smile.gif

Minor update, turns out, framing is NOT done. I put up a few clips under my son's room that I can't get to after bedtime and I found yet another twisted/bowed stud. I'll have to cut it out and replace it mad.gif

However, I have found a bit of motivational news! One of the big reasons that I got interested in building a home theater to begin with is gaming. Back before I was married with kids, I used to play a LOT of Halo. When we decided on a lot for our house, we were told that DSL was available here, life was good. Along about the time they were framing the house, I called ATT and wouldn't you know it, no love. Their network is overloaded, and they aren't adding any more users. Well, long story short, I decided to check the 4G LTE ping times on my phone, and HELLO! I might have a viable option for gaming! If that turns out to be the case, I may have to take some time off work/school and dip into the 'ol retirement account to get this theater DONE! smile.gif

Well, I won't go that far, but I am pretty excited about the prospect of being able to play onine video games again!
post #716 of 1001
Wait, you've been feeding your AVS addiction without a broadband connection at home?
post #717 of 1001
J_P_A,

This might help......slightly with your mental image.



Your Welcome! tongue.gif

Regards,

RTROSE
post #718 of 1001
Thread Starter 
I knew I could count on you, RT biggrin.gif
post #719 of 1001
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by HopefulFred View Post

Wait, you've been feeding your AVS addiction without a broadband connection at home?

Satellite broadband. It's fast, but the latency is horrible. We did exceed our bandwidth cap last month, and with all those new pics in TMcGs thread, I gotta feeling I'm on schedule to do it again smile.gif
post #720 of 1001
looking good! any new pics ?
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