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PNxxD550 advanced calibration unlocked!/Calibration Thread - Page 6

post #151 of 775
6/14/11 at 9:13pm
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Blwn281 View Post

What's the whole point of the "break in period"??

the break in period is that in the first 100 hours or more.. +/-
the phosphors in the set burn hotter and are more prone to real burn in and serious IR.

so the burn in period a.k.a break in period is to age the phosphors evenly across the board as to have it so your set is even. so when the period is over the uniformity across phosphors are good and you are less prone to serious burn in and or IR.

this is actually pretty recognized as the truth.

even manufacturers circa 2007 up to say this.. but i think it's best anyways.. just to watch full screen material a.k.a 1:78:1 in the first 100 hours.
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post #152 of 775
6/14/11 at 9:17pm
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Blwn281 View Post

What do mean glaring or cross talking?

for the 1080 h264 .mkv Half SBS 3d videos that i have seen. yes there is a tiny bit of crosstalk on some black/dark scenes.. but can be adjusted with 3d perspective.
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post #153 of 775
6/14/11 at 9:21pm
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Blwn281 View Post

These tv's from what I have read you pretty much don't have to worry tooo much about it. Is that true?

it's still an issue my friend. and if you are not careful it can get real real bad.

seriously. it's a issue inherent with all plasma display technology.

read the 1st page of your manual that came with your D550!

it says so there.

must watch full screen material 95% of the time.. per week.

black bars only 5% of the week.

you can however watch other stuff but you have to mix it up by watching full screen material more.. to age the phosphors evenly again.
you see... our sets are like layers of an onion.. many layers of the phosphors.. when you have a static image on board like a ticker from sat tv or from a sports game or the like.. all the phosphors age around it.. e.g the layers.. and then you get an outline.. *the IR/burn in.*

now.. if you do this.. then look at a blank source input you can see the outline.. even after 30 minutes of watching say.. equator HD or radx or anything with a ticker or a game with a health bar etc..

now if you watch say 1-2 hours of a full screen movie or zoomed in program on tv.. it will dissapear.. age the phosphors across the set evenly again.

see?

now.. if you don't mix it up and lopsidedly watch too much ticker action or play the game non-stop without watching full screen stuff.. you get a semi-permanent outline on the screen cuz the phosphors aged too many layers around it.

the point is to mix it up as so it doesn't get too far ..

ya dig??
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post #154 of 775
6/14/11 at 9:51pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by eXgo View Post

for the 1080 h264 .mkv Half SBS 3d videos that i have seen. yes there is a tiny bit of crosstalk on some black/dark scenes.. but can be adjusted with 3d perspective.

what do you mean by 3d perspective? have you adjusted it?
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post #155 of 775
6/14/11 at 10:41pm
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by audionewer View Post

what do you mean by 3d perspective? have you adjusted it?

the 3d perspective is an adjustment option in the 3d menu.

there is 3d perspective and depth.

i notice if you have a tiny bit of ghosting.. you can adjust this and it fixes it.

it also i think adjusts the 3d perspective e.g objects in background and foreground.
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post #156 of 775
6/14/11 at 11:56pm
Thread Starter 
played ffxiii for 6 hours.. lol, got some serious IR..

now I will watch some full screen movies 1:78:1 just. 1x1 content. and see how long it takes to go peel the layers of the onion down to the same level. phosphors to even out.
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post #157 of 775
6/15/11 at 4:14am
I tried Tridef 3D. It supports HDMI 1.4 "HD 3D" (full resolution progressive frames for both eyes) in 720p60 or 1080p24 or 1080p60 TB mode (half sized images).

I watched some 3D Blu-Rays (real, not SBS or TB re-encoded ****) with PowerDVD11. I just told it that my TV and VGA card both support HDMI 1.4 and it works.

The HDMI 1.4 formats automatically trigger the 3D mode on the TV with both PowerDVD and Tridef 3D. SBS and TB need to be turned on manually.


About quality...

Blu-Ray 3D looks OK with movies. It's a little dim and grainy but show me better...

I didn't like TRON (it felt like SouthPark: the CGI was very nice but the people felt like they were shot in plain 2D and placed in a 3D level later during the post-production).

Avatar 3D is a reference BD 3D material. Everything looked alive and 3D without any noticeable crosstalk.

I watched two child movies: Shrek Forever after and How to train your dragon. They weren't as good as Avatar but they still looked very nice.


In my opinion, 3D is simply unusable for games with these TVs.

1080p24 looks very cool. I mean it's really nice! It shows better 3D illusion than Avatar if I play AMD HD3D supported game titles (Mass Effect 2 and Dragon Age 2 OK, AC-BH didn't work at all).
But 24fps is obviously insufficient for any type of games (let alone the shooters...) and the 3D mode works with higher input lag too, so it's a complete disaster if you try to play and not only test the PQ with still images...

720p60 3D feels playable but in my opinion it looks worse than 1080p60 2D. This resolution is very low for 51" and I also need to reduce the game PQ settings to get ~60-60 fps (for both eyes).
And there is a huge crosstalk in this mode, so it is completely useless.

1080p60 TB mode is somehow looks better than 720p 3D but it's close to that. I still prefer 1080p60 2D.

Not to mention that 2D doesn't require glasses and less grainy, etc.
So I think 3D is completely useless for PC gaming. But may be it is good for console gaming where your game engine renders in 720p only anyway...


-------------


My internal player is completely dead. AllShare could suffer from a network problem but I tried to put this animated GIF image on a FAT32 USB drive before I recommend it for break-in purposes.
I think it's better and more effective than those old break-in slides with redundant single channel colors and grays but it's still not static like a full white image...

The OSD showed me that I attached a new device. I hit ENTER on the remote but the same thing happened what AllShare did: The empty CONTENT screen appeared for some seconds and disappeared without any notice.
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post #158 of 775
6/15/11 at 5:58am
Quote:
Originally Posted by eXgo View Post

it's still an issue my friend. and if you are not careful it can get real real bad.

seriously. it's a issue inherent with all plasma display technology.

read the 1st page of your manual that came with your D550!

it says so there.

must watch full screen material 95% of the time.. per week.

black bars only 5% of the week.

you can however watch other stuff but you have to mix it up by watching full screen material more.. to age the phosphors evenly again.
you see... our sets are like layers of an onion.. many layers of the phosphors.. when you have a static image on board like a ticker from sat tv or from a sports game or the like.. all the phosphors age around it.. e.g the layers.. and then you get an outline.. *the IR/burn in.*

now.. if you do this.. then look at a blank source input you can see the outline.. even after 30 minutes of watching say.. equator HD or radx or anything with a ticker or a game with a health bar etc..

now if you watch say 1-2 hours of a full screen movie or zoomed in program on tv.. it will dissapear.. age the phosphors across the set evenly again.

see?

now.. if you don't mix it up and lopsidedly watch too much ticker action or play the game non-stop without watching full screen stuff.. you get a semi-permanent outline on the screen cuz the phosphors aged too many layers around it.

the point is to mix it up as so it doesn't get too far ..

ya dig??

Exgo, I am just worried when Dark Souls comes out this year. I had a Samsung plasma fpt5084 when Demon Souls came out and I put in a ridiculous amount of hours on that one. I had a health bar, the weapon selection icons on the bottom left for another 100 hours of viewing. I thought I had messed up my TV.

It eventually went away. I am thinking of playing Dark Souls on my PC monitor (28 inch LCD) when it comes out. I have to play that game but not at the expense of my new d550. I do love this TV though.

On another note, are there any slides or calibration disk images that I can use to test blacks? I want o see if my TV is crushing them. I do not think it is happening but I would feel better with the slides.

Thanks
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post #159 of 775
6/15/11 at 7:16am
Quote:
Originally Posted by eXgo View Post

sounds good bud...

ya.. it's getting the crossmatched ports done.

how do you find the PQ on your set after the settings?

the PQ is just un-real compard to before the change in set model .. i thought it had a great picture before the change after setting everything from what it came out of the box.. i really didn't think it could get much better, boy was i wrong.. it is A BIG CHANGE after the switch and setting it all.. now i need to do the 51 in my bedroom... i need to go buy another HDMI cord and put the ps3 in my bedroom for now tell i find something else to use for the open port
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post #160 of 775
6/15/11 at 8:47am
Miller, Does your device have to be on all the time to activate the HDMI ports?
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post #161 of 775
6/15/11 at 10:19am
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mrbigvolume View Post

Miller, Does your device have to be on all the time to activate the HDMI ports?

the devices don't have to be on all the time.. i just have an issue with my ps3.. but i don't know if that is the same with everyone.
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post #162 of 775
6/15/11 at 10:20am
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by millertime50 View Post

the PQ is just un-real compard to before the change in set model .. i thought it had a great picture before the change after setting everything from what it came out of the box.. i really didn't think it could get much better, boy was i wrong.. it is A BIG CHANGE after the switch and setting it all.. now i need to do the 51 in my bedroom... i need to go buy another HDMI cord and put the ps3 in my bedroom for now tell i find something else to use for the open port

that's great millertime!

I feel the same way!
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post #163 of 775
6/15/11 at 10:22am
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mrbigvolume View Post

Exgo, I am just worried when Dark Souls comes out this year. I had a Samsung plasma fpt5084 when Demon Souls came out and I put in a ridiculous amount of hours on that one. I had a health bar, the weapon selection icons on the bottom left for another 100 hours of viewing. I thought I had messed up my TV.

It eventually went away. I am thinking of playing Dark Souls on my PC monitor (28 inch LCD) when it comes out. I have to play that game but not at the expense of my new d550. I do love this TV though.

On another note, are there any slides or calibration disk images that I can use to test blacks? I want o see if my TV is crushing them. I do not think it is happening but I would feel better with the slides.

Thanks

hey bud.

the IR has gone.. with this set.. just be sure to mix it up.. and watch the full screen stuff after gaming for a few hours.

the only calibration slides i know of are the evangelo slides.

you could make your own slides easily enough to test for blacks though.
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post #164 of 775
6/15/11 at 10:25am
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by janos666 View Post

I tried Tridef 3D. It supports HDMI 1.4 "HD 3D" (full resolution progressive frames for both eyes) in 720p60 or 1080p24 or 1080p60 TB mode (half sized images).

I watched some 3D Blu-Rays (real, not SBS or TB re-encoded ****) with PowerDVD11. I just told it that my TV and VGA card both support HDMI 1.4 and it works.

The HDMI 1.4 formats automatically trigger the 3D mode on the TV with both PowerDVD and Tridef 3D. SBS and TB need to be turned on manually.


About quality...

Blu-Ray 3D looks OK with movies. It's a little dim and grainy but show me better...

I didn't like TRON (it felt like SouthPark: the CGI was very nice but the people felt like they were shot in plain 2D and placed in a 3D level later during the post-production).

Avatar 3D is a reference BD 3D material. Everything looked alive and 3D without any noticeable crosstalk.

I watched two child movies: Shrek Forever after and How to train your dragon. They weren't as good as Avatar but they still looked very nice.


In my opinion, 3D is simply unusable for games with these TVs.

1080p24 looks very cool. I mean it's really nice! It shows better 3D illusion than Avatar if I play AMD HD3D supported game titles (Mass Effect 2 and Dragon Age 2 OK, AC-BH didn't work at all).
But 24fps is obviously insufficient for any type of games (let alone the shooters...) and the 3D mode works with higher input lag too, so it's a complete disaster if you try to play and not only test the PQ with still images...

720p60 3D feels playable but in my opinion it looks worse than 1080p60 2D. This resolution is very low for 51" and I also need to reduce the game PQ settings to get ~60-60 fps (for both eyes).
And there is a huge crosstalk in this mode, so it is completely useless.

1080p60 TB mode is somehow looks better than 720p 3D but it's close to that. I still prefer 1080p60 2D.

Not to mention that 2D doesn't require glasses and less grainy, etc.
So I think 3D is completely useless for PC gaming. But may be it is good for console gaming where your game engine renders in 720p only anyway...


-------------


My internal player is completely dead. AllShare could suffer from a network problem but I tried to put this animated GIF image on a FAT32 USB drive before I recommend it for break-in purposes.
I think it's better and more effective than those old break-in slides with redundant single channel colors and grays but it's still not static like a full white image...

The OSD showed me that I attached a new device. I hit ENTER on the remote but the same thing happened what AllShare did: The empty CONTENT screen appeared for some seconds and disappeared without any notice.

i feel the same way about 3d gaming via PC. i tried tridef and iz3d.

with allshare i tried my 1.5tb hdd in usb chassis. it works fine.

then a 2gb fat32 drive. and it works too.

I also just plugged into my network. went into media player and turned on homegroups and shares libraries and also turned on streaming.

voila. works fine.
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post #165 of 775
6/15/11 at 7:42pm
Im new to all this and read most of this thread, so if I missed anything I'm sorry.

I inputted all these settings but am yet to watch a movie. While watching hd tv on movie mode, these settings seem to make the picture look "dull". Are these settings meant to be used on both BD and HD tv, or just movie/BD? If just the movie/BD, what are optimal settings for general HD tv settings? If I missed these settings, I apologize in advance. Thanks for all the wonderful advice.
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post #166 of 775
6/15/11 at 9:42pm
Been trying to get hdmi switching to work with my avr. I'm using an onkyo and it doesn't seem to work. Seems like if you want to use this hack you have to run everything through the tv. Has anyone else tried to get hdmi switching to work? I ran component for my cable box and hdmi from my ps3 to my avr for the video switching. Used the hdmi from my cable box to run as the idle in hdmi 2 and then the hdmi from my avr to hdmi 4. Got video all worked but wouldn't switch from my cable. To my ps3. Kinda choaked about that. Still waiting on my splitter might just go pick one up soon and try that out. If anyone has any ideas on how to run everything through their avr please post. Thanx
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post #167 of 775
6/15/11 at 10:25pm
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by RogueStatus View Post

Im new to all this and read most of this thread, so if I missed anything I'm sorry.

I inputted all these settings but am yet to watch a movie. While watching hd tv on movie mode, these settings seem to make the picture look "dull". Are these settings meant to be used on both BD and HD tv, or just movie/BD? If just the movie/BD, what are optimal settings for general HD tv settings? If I missed these settings, I apologize in advance. Thanks for all the wonderful advice.

yes both bd and hd tv.

these calibrations are more to D65 more real and natural look to the source material as possible.

it's not torch mode.
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post #168 of 775
6/15/11 at 10:28pm
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Blwn281 View Post

Been trying to get hdmi switching to work with my avr. I'm using an onkyo and it doesn't seem to work. Seems like if you want to use this hack you have to run everything through the tv. Has anyone else tried to get hdmi switching to work? I ran component for my cable box and hdmi from my ps3 to my avr for the video switching. Used the hdmi from my cable box to run as the idle in hdmi 2 and then the hdmi from my avr to hdmi 4. Got video all worked but wouldn't switch from my cable. To my ps3. Kinda choaked about that. Still waiting on my splitter might just go pick one up soon and try that out. If anyone has any ideas on how to run everything through their avr please post. Thanx

i am running everything through the TV.

i am running analogs to my AVR for Lossless sound from HDA1.

I decided to just matrix through the TV for PS3 because it doesn't do lossless for 3d anyway. and i can matrix the 5.1 with pro logic which is fine.

i ustu be really hardcore for the lossless but.. am not going to worry about it until i get a hdmi 1.4 AVR.

I don't see why HDMI switching wouldn't work but that does wrench stuff when having certain calibrations for sources i would think.
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post #169 of 775
6/15/11 at 11:01pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by eXgo View Post


i am running everything through the TV.

i am running analogs to my AVR for Lossless sound from HDA1.

I decided to just matrix through the TV for PS3 because it doesn't do lossless for 3d anyway. and i can matrix the 5.1 with pro logic which is fine.

i ustu be really hardcore for the lossless but.. am not going to worry about it until i get a hdmi 1.4 AVR.

I don't see why HDMI switching wouldn't work but that does wrench stuff when having certain calibrations for sources i would think.

What's lossless sound? Pretty sure my avr is a 1.4 avr. It's 3D. It's the onkyo ht-r680. 7.1 surround

Here's a pic of the set up
LL
LL
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post #170 of 775
6/15/11 at 11:03pm
Gotta hide a few wires yet. Haven't pulled the tv off the wall to run the second hdmi (idle).
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post #171 of 775
6/16/11 at 6:02am
Quote:
Originally Posted by Blwn281 View Post

Been trying to get hdmi switching to work with my avr. I'm using an onkyo and it doesn't seem to work. Seems like if you want to use this hack you have to run everything through the tv. Has anyone else tried to get hdmi switching to work? I ran component for my cable box and hdmi from my ps3 to my avr for the video switching. Used the hdmi from my cable box to run as the idle in hdmi 2 and then the hdmi from my avr to hdmi 4. Got video all worked but wouldn't switch from my cable. To my ps3. Kinda choaked about that. Still waiting on my splitter might just go pick one up soon and try that out. If anyone has any ideas on how to run everything through their avr please post. Thanx

I had the same problem as you. Onkyo receiver as well. I didn't want to run everything through the tv. That's the purpose of the receiver. Plus having to change everything would be a lot of work.

What I did was get an hdmi splitter and 2 cheap hdmi cables. I split the dvr's signal. One to the receiver and the other to hdmi 1 on the tv ( the idle port). I plugged the receiver into hdmi 4. Everything works as it did. No need to change all the wiring and reprogram my logitech remote.

Side note: the hdmi splitter came with a power cord. As long as you are running short cables 4-6 ft it does not need to be plugged in. At least in my case.
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post #172 of 775
6/16/11 at 7:24am
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mrbigvolume View Post

Miller, Does your device have to be on all the time to activate the HDMI ports?

no.. i have the power cord plugged in the wall, but it is turned off
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post #173 of 775
6/16/11 at 7:39am
Quote:
Originally Posted by Blwn281 View Post

Been trying to get hdmi switching to work with my avr. I'm using an onkyo and it doesn't seem to work. Seems like if you want to use this hack you have to run everything through the tv. Has anyone else tried to get hdmi switching to work? I ran component for my cable box and hdmi from my ps3 to my avr for the video switching. Used the hdmi from my cable box to run as the idle in hdmi 2 and then the hdmi from my avr to hdmi 4. Got video all worked but wouldn't switch from my cable. To my ps3. Kinda choaked about that. Still waiting on my splitter might just go pick one up soon and try that out. If anyone has any ideas on how to run everything through their avr please post. Thanx

Quote:
Originally Posted by Renegade4x4 View Post

I had the same problem as you. Onkyo receiver as well. I didn't want to run everything through the tv. That's the purpose of the receiver. Plus having to change everything would be a lot of work.

What I did was get an hdmi splitter and 2 cheap hdmi cables. I split the dvr's signal. One to the receiver and the other to hdmi 1 on the tv ( the idle port). I plugged the receiver into hdmi 4. Everything works as it did. No need to change all the wiring and reprogram my logitech remote.

Side note: the hdmi splitter came with a power cord. As long as you are running short cables 4-6 ft it does not need to be plugged in. At least in my case.

i kind of went thru the same thing as you Blwn.. but then i left everything hooked to the avr the way it was before i started .. and then just hooked my other blu ray player to #4 port and the avr to #2.. it all worked tell i would try to switch the avr to my 3D blu ray player, then it would try to switch to number 3 HDMI.. i don't know why it would do that.. so then i turned off the Anynet .. now it all works good.. good idea on the HDMI spliter.. i think i will pickup a splitter and try that so i can take my other blu ray player back to my bedroom.....
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post #174 of 775
6/16/11 at 7:52am
Thanks for the specifics Miller. I have a old HDMI DVD player to try it out, I just havent had the time yet (weekend). Thanks for letting us know exactly which port to use and all since we have similar setups. I will definitely turn off Anynet.
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post #175 of 775
6/16/11 at 4:05pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by eXgo View Post

yes both bd and hd tv.

these calibrations are more to D65 more real and natural look to the source material as possible.

it's not torch mode.

Lol. I guess I just prefer a brighter HD cable pq. I watched "The Matrix Reloaded" with the settings you listed and i was definitely impressed. Never seen any picture that crisp and clear. Hopefully someone will come up with settings that make my HD cable look like the picture I see in the big box stores. Thanks again for the professional settings!
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post #176 of 775
6/16/11 at 5:42pm
So let me get this straight, to plug in 2 things I need to get 3 plugged in?
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post #177 of 775
6/16/11 at 5:47pm
Another question, will going into the sm void my warranty? I am running a ps3 and a verizon fios motorola cable box. Both are directly connected to the tv.
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post #178 of 775
6/16/11 at 5:58pm
Just got a box containing a pair of 3D glasses and a HDMI cable.
The TV itself is being delivered tomorrow.
Looks like my weekend time has "playing with TV" in it.
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post #179 of 775
6/16/11 at 7:42pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by millertime50 View Post


i kind of went thru the same thing as you Blwn.. but then i left everything hooked to the avr the way it was before i started .. and then just hooked my other blu ray player to #4 port and the avr to #2.. it all worked tell i would try to switch the avr to my 3D blu ray player, then it would try to switch to number 3 HDMI.. i don't know why it would do that.. so then i turned off the Anynet .. now it all works good.. good idea on the HDMI spliter.. i think i will pickup a splitter and try that so i can take my other blu ray player back to my bedroom.....

I think I have mine the opposite to you I'm going to try the way you have it tonight
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post #180 of 775
6/16/11 at 7:42pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by JerryIII View Post

So let me get this straight, to plug in 2 things I need to get 3 plugged in?

Yes
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