I spent almost two hours with calibration. I wasn't sure if it worth it when I finished.
I spent a lot of time playing with the Custom Color Space setup and now I can't really notice any differences between Custom and Auto with my naked eyes on real-life image contents (sometimes it's hard to tell if it's Auto or Native if there is no either saturated green or red on the display...).
But the sensor said I adjusted this 6 points of the gamut with ~1 dE2000 precision, and my favorite "6-axial CMS fault test" says the processing is not perfect but acceptable (probably causes less errors than the differences which it is supposed to compensate...) and my Custom mode setup seems to cause slightly less artifacts. So, may be it wasn't superfluous to do.
The 10p gray balance was an easier job but it wasn't too fast either (many points...).
I am not sure if it worth it or not because I can still see some imperfections when I am staring at the 8-bit gray gradient test pattern.
10 points are simply not enough to make it "perfect" and the proper solution for this is an internal hardware LUT. Ohh... or a 3DLUT to take care about the Gamut as well.

However, these small imperfections can't ruin the overall high picture quality feeling when I watch a real movie or play a game.
I used the PC mode for games, because it's better than Game mode. It fully reproduces the RGB 4:4:4 input, not like any other modes and I didn't measure it but I think it's at least as fast as Game mode or even faster if there is a difference (It would be logical if it does even less processing -- no RGB->YCC and yet another YCC->RGB steps -- but who knows what really happens inside the "black box"...).
However, now that I spent so much time with calibrating the Movie mode, I gave it a chance again because I suspected (from the mouse movements on the Windows desktop during the calibration) that the last firmware update (1018) may reduced the input lag of the Movie mode. (It also made the OSD smoother!)
And I decided to use the Movie mode for games as well, because after all those fine tunings which I made today for the Movie mode, it's definitely more accurate than PC mode and the 4:2:2 chroma sub-sampling doesn't look that bad now. (I think I saw something else --which is gone now-- and I declared it it as chroma sub-sampling artifact because it could have been...)
And I don't play games like CS:S since 2006, so may be I am not the person to judge about it without objective measurements, but I think the input lag is acceptable with the Movie mode too. (But I have the 1018 firmware and I am sure it was slower at the first day I set it up, that's why I was a "PC mode fan".)
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I do not recommend to copy my settings (of course, you are free to do so...), I just place them here to see how does it differs from other's settings...
I used a 23.976Hz Full Range RGB signal with CinemaSmooth but CS doesn't seem to make any noticeable difference with 60Hz. (And I prefer the correct cadence over the slightly higher contrast ratio...)
First I reset my WB calibration settings in the SM to 128x8. (I couldn't touch the movie mode values however.)
Then I used the 8x8 (inverted) checkerboard to freshly run a HDMI calibration. (I played with it because I could improve the PC mode with this but the results of the automatic calibration looks fine with the normal YCC mode...)
And here are my user menu settings (I borrowed the template from the first post):
Mode:Movie
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Cell Light---20
Contrast---95
Brightness---54
Sharpness---18
Color---50
Tint---50/50
Black Tone---off
Dynamic---off
Gamma--- 0
Rgb Only---off
Flesh Tone---0
Motion Light---off
xvYcc---off
Color Tone---warm2
Digital Noise---off
Mpeg Noise---off
----------------
Color Space
_______
Red_r-----50
Red_g-----42
Red_b-----31
_______
Green_r-----78
Green_g-----48
Green_b-----0
_______
Blue_r-----10
Blue_g-----11
Blue_b-----50
_______
Yellow_r-----48
Yellow_g-----50
Yellow_b-----43
_______
Cyan_r-----100
Cyan_g-----44
Cyan_b-----45
_______
Magenta_r-----49
Magenta_g-----48
Magenta_b-----50
________________
White Balance
----------------
r_offset-----25
g_offset-----25
b_offset-----25
r_gain-----39
b_gain-----25
g_gain-----29
________________
10 Point Calibration
-----------------------
r1--------(0
g1-------(0
b1-------(+1
r2-------(-1
g2-------(0
b2-------(+1
r3-------(-1
g3-------(0
b3-------(0
r4-------(-1
g4-------(0
b4-------(+2
r5-------(-1
g5-------(0
b5-------(-1
r6-------(-2
g6-------(0
b6-------(-1
r7-------(-2
g7-------(0
b7-------(+2
r8-------(0
g8-------(0
b8-------(+1
r9-------(+1
g9-------(0
b9-------(-2
r10-------(0 (-> Why the hell would anybody change this if he used the Gains earlier?)
g10-------(0
b10-------(0
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These are for 2D, I didn't calibrated the 3D mode yet. But that mode doesn't have 10p gray scale and I guess I could start from these Color Space values there. But it's not that easy to place an operating glass between the panel and the sensor and I don't have any 3D movies at hand which I didn't watch already (before the renaming).
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I think I would be able to make it clear for you how the HDMI ports behave now (your crossmatch issue) but not in English.
