or Connect
AVS › AVS Forum › Display Devices › Plasma Flat Panel Displays › PNxxD550 advanced calibration unlocked!/Calibration Thread
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:

PNxxD550 advanced calibration unlocked!/Calibration Thread - Page 21

post #601 of 776
Quote:
Originally Posted by garansha View Post

OMG.....Real real basic's please guys, i am getting this TV the day after christmas. I will be connecting my ps3 and my surround sound system to it. Like i said real basic but what is the best way so i can do the advanced calibration? UK dummy here ...sorry :-(

There is no real basic way! Honestly, someone asking for basic, shouldnt even be considering this hack! You can turn your TV into a brick by choosing the wrong model, this is not basic.... it gives you more settings to control or foulup your color settings!

Start here on page 1 of this thread and gain knowledge regarding this hack, learn the pros and cons first, then make your decision! Hell, you havent even received tv, burned it in, or played with stock color adjustments yet!
post #602 of 776
Quote:
Originally Posted by talon90 View Post


I have the same problem as watchcricket. As alternative, will it work if i also use a powered hdmi splitter and hook up my DISH to the splitter and hook one hdmi to the TV and another to the AV receiver? And if it does, does it have to be a powered hdmi splitter or just plain splitter? Thanks

I tried the plain splitter (Ebay Item # 170493554366) on my dish 722 and it worked. However, I will not recommend this as the output quality from the splitter is not same as before. I recorded/watched the "Tron Legacy" movie and compared the video/audio quality which is awful with the splitter. So, I ditched it.

Another workaround is (that I am currently using until I find a definitive solution)

1. Connect a HDMI cable (to the idle port) to the TV but do not plug it into a device yet
2. Turn ON all the devices
3. TV will display "Check Signal Cable" (because the idle port is not connected to a device yet)
4. Now connect the HDMI cable (the other end) to either a "Mini Display Port to HDMI Cable Adapter" or to a "iPad Digital A/V Adapter"
5. Everything should be working now.

Note: You should keep the "Mini Display Port to HDMI Cable Adapter" or "iPad Digital A/V Adapter" connected as long as you turn ON the TV.
Basically, I take it off before turning ON all the devices and plug it back in to watch TV.

This workaround is definitely not ideal but better than using a Splitter. Also one should have either the "Mini Display Port to HDMI Cable Adapter" or a "iPad Digital A/V Adapter" to work around.
LL
LL
post #603 of 776
Quote:
Originally Posted by watchcricket View Post

I tried the plain splitter (Ebay Item # 170493554366) on my dish 722 and it worked. However, I will not recommend this as the output quality from the splitter is not same as before. I recorded/watched the "Tron Legacy" movie and compared the video/audio quality which is awful with the splitter. So, I ditched it.

Another workaround is (that I am currently using until I find a definitive solution)

1. Connect a HDMI cable (to the idle port) to the TV but do not plug it into a device yet
2. Turn ON all the devices
3. TV will display "Check Signal Cable" (because the idle port is not connected to a device yet)
4. Now connect the HDMI cable (the other end) to either a "Mini Display Port to HDMI Cable Adapter" or to a "iPad Digital A/V Adapter"
5. Everything should be working now.

Note: You should keep the "Mini Display Port to HDMI Cable Adapter" or "iPad Digital A/V Adapter" connected as long as you turn ON the TV.
Basically, I take it off before turning ON all the devices and plug it back in to watch TV.

This workaround is definitely not ideal but better than using a Splitter. Also one should have either the "Mini Display Port to HDMI Cable Adapter" or a "iPad Digital A/V Adapter" to work around.

Try this splitter, works perfectly for me.
http://www.monoprice.com/products/pr...seq=1&format=2
post #604 of 776
Quote:
Originally Posted by chambery View Post


Try this splitter, works perfectly for me.
http://www.monoprice.com/products/pr...seq=1&format=2

I don't see any big difference between the one I mentioned available at Ebay Vs this one at Monoprice! Did you really test the video and audio quality with and without the splitter? Thanks in advance.
post #605 of 776
I bought a 3-1 hdmi splitter on amazon for $11 and the quality of video is just as good with as without. It doesn't require a power source either. It also switches components on its on.
post #606 of 776
Quote:
Originally Posted by volblood View Post

I bought a 3-1 hdmi splitter on amazon for $11 and the quality of video is just as good with as without. It doesn't require a power source either. It also switches components on its on.

Is this the one?
http://www.amazon.com/HDMI-1-Out-Aut...4264494&sr=8-1
post #607 of 776
post #608 of 776
kevin pictures dont show, can you type or IM me pics?
post #609 of 776
Quote:
Originally Posted by watchcricket View Post

I tried the plain splitter (Ebay Item # 170493554366) on my dish 722 and it worked. However, I will not recommend this as the output quality from the splitter is not same as before. I recorded/watched the "Tron Legacy" movie and compared the video/audio quality which is awful with the splitter. So, I ditched it.

Another workaround is (that I am currently using until I find a definitive solution)

1. Connect a HDMI cable (to the idle port) to the TV but do not plug it into a device yet
2. Turn ON all the devices
3. TV will display "Check Signal Cable" (because the idle port is not connected to a device yet)
4. Now connect the HDMI cable (the other end) to either a "Mini Display Port to HDMI Cable Adapter" or to a "iPad Digital A/V Adapter"
5. Everything should be working now.

Note: You should keep the "Mini Display Port to HDMI Cable Adapter" or "iPad Digital A/V Adapter" connected as long as you turn ON the TV.
Basically, I take it off before turning ON all the devices and plug it back in to watch TV.

This workaround is definitely not ideal but better than using a Splitter. Also one should have either the "Mini Display Port to HDMI Cable Adapter" or a "iPad Digital A/V Adapter" to work around.

Finally, solved the problem by plugging in a working/dummy DVD player with HDMI out (bought a used from craigslist for $20).

Note: I don't need to actually turn ON the DVD player!
post #610 of 776
you can use the hdmi ports without the dummy dvd port on?
post #611 of 776
Quote:
Originally Posted by volblood View Post

you can use the hdmi ports without the dummy dvd port on?

Sorry, I didn't get you.
post #612 of 776
You're saying you don't have to have the power on the DVD player on for the hack to work?
post #613 of 776
Quote:
Originally Posted by volblood View Post

You're saying you don't have to have the power on the DVD player on for the hack to work?

Yes, I don't have to power ON the DVD player for the cross-matching to work!

FYI:
It's a Sony DVP-NS700H CD/DVD Player which is connected to HDMI 1 and my HT-S6300 A/V receiver is connected to HDMI 4
post #614 of 776
Lance- did you try the hack?
post #615 of 776
does anyone have an opinion of the D550 vs the panasonic S30 if the two were the same price and 3D being of no importance to the potential owner?
post #616 of 776
Quote:
Originally Posted by brendelac View Post

does anyone have an opinion of the D550 vs the panasonic S30 if the two were the same price and 3D being of no importance to the potential owner?

I would say the Panasonic is a good deal better.

Dave.
post #617 of 776
Quote:
Originally Posted by brendelac View Post

does anyone have an opinion of the D550 vs the panasonic S30 if the two were the same price and 3D being of no importance to the potential owner?

its totally on opinion of which is better becaue statiscally they are very close in many aspects.

samsungs has its share of problems

panny's do too.

People say

Samsung = better colors
Panny = better blacks

IMO they are both probably identical in quality and how you can tweak

BUT the 550 you can unlock advances calibration in which if you calibrate it right it can look as good as the d7000 series minus the contrast ratio
post #618 of 776
i'm far FAR from an expert but my eyes see a better picture from the s30 with default settings compared to the d550 with cue03's settings although i have not done the hack on the d550. the rep i spoke with said that panasonic makes the "technology" for all plasma brands but then the other brands will cut corners in other areas to keep their costs down. also i have noticed that the s30 is signifigantly heavier than the d550 which to me and my old school thinking means better quality internals - is this still true?
post #619 of 776
I dont wanna do 1080@24fps at games.I just bought the 59 " version of this TV. Spending so much money being student really makes me worried as I assumed Id be able to do stereoscopic 3d at full hd.

1)Does this hack allow to use checker board? I heard that higher end plasmas 2011 do support it not d550. now curiously thinking of buying a compatible graphics card.

2) Should i buy AMD hd3d soft w radeon or nvidia 3dvision Any help would be appreciated.
post #620 of 776
I've gone through the first few pages and don't have a clue what you guys are talking about. You can see I am pretty dumb. :-)

Do we really need to go into the service menu by punching in "Mute - 1 - 8 - 2 - Power" to do the calibration? Can't we just adjust the picture settings on the menu(after the TV is switched on)?

Is there a kind soul out there who can show the calibration methods of the D550 step by step from A to Z through a Youtube video?

At any rate, quality of full HD movies look fantastic on a stock D550, and I wonder how the D550 will look like when the "10point advanced calibration" is unlocked.
post #621 of 776
Quote:
Originally Posted by ryder_78 View Post

I've gone through the first few pages and don't have a clue what you guys are talking about. You can see I am pretty dumb. :-)

Do we really need to go into the service menu by punching in "Mute - 1 - 8 - 2 - Power" to do the calibration? Can't we just adjust the picture settings on the menu(after the TV is switched on)?

Is there a kind soul out there who can show the calibration methods of the D550 step by step from A to Z through a Youtube video?

At any rate, quality of full HD movies look fantastic on a stock D550, and I wonder how the D550 will look like when the "10point advanced calibration" is unlocked.

you have to access the service menu to be able to adjust the settings so that the TV will think it is the D7000 model which unlocks the 10 point calibration settings
post #622 of 776
Quote:
Originally Posted by ryder_78 View Post

I've gone through the first few pages and don't have a clue what you guys are talking about. You can see I am pretty dumb. :-)

Do we really need to go into the service menu by punching in "Mute - 1 - 8 - 2 - Power" to do the calibration? Can't we just adjust the picture settings on the menu(after the TV is switched on)?

Is there a kind soul out there who can show the calibration methods of the D550 step by step from A to Z through a Youtube video?

At any rate, quality of full HD movies look fantastic on a stock D550, and I wonder how the D550 will look like when the "10point advanced calibration" is unlocked.

No, you don't have to access the service menu to have a great picture.

These displays exhibit excellent PQ straight from the factory.

Most would tell you to use Movie mode, Contrast around 90, Screen Fit, Warm 1 or Warm 2 depending on your preference, turn off the automatic processing stuff, etc. as a starting point. You'll find these suggestions throughout this thread.

Then basic adjustments through the user menu can improve the picture quite a bit. Get an AVIA, DVE, or Disney WOW disc from Amazon and make these user menu adjustments yourself. Copy your final user menu settings to each input source that you have (DVD, DVR/Receiver, XBox, etc.) Then enjoy!

Going into the service menu is not difficult, but can be dangerous if you don't know what you're doing or don't follow directions exactly. The benefits of going into the service menu are likely to be minimal unless you are going to truly calibrate the display with the proper test equipment and software.

Some report the 10 point settings provided in this thread and elsewhere improve PQ, some report no improvement, others don't like the results. YMMV. The thinking here is that this occurs because the settings do not carry over well from one display to another.

I tried all that I could find and none made my display look better than my user menu adjustments using the AVIA disc.

Get one of the discs mentioned above, following the easily understood adjustment methods and be happy that you have a good display with a great PQ for the money.

Enjoy
post #623 of 776
Brendelac, thanks for the information.

Chambery, thanks for the thoughts. Much appreciated. I'll go through the whole thread now to check on the ideal settings folks are using on their sets. Will consider your suggestion of getting a AVIA, DVE, or Disney WOW disc. I am enjoying the quality of the TV with the factory settings so much that I don't have any urge to tinker with the advanced settings at the moment.

I have decided not to go into the service menu after much deliberation as I may well do more harm than good.

Cheers and happy holidays.
post #624 of 776
Quote:
Originally Posted by dj41 View Post

These are pictures of my D550 without the hack. I seriously doubt I could get it any better than this.










Thanks for the pictures. Excellent. Similarly I can't imagine how a TV that has gone through the 10 points advanced calibration can beat this.

It would be useful if someone who had done the 10 point calibration can post some photos for comparison purposes.

In case anyone is asking, the thread above is taken from page 11. The settings used are as below.

Cell - 16
Contrast - 76
Brightness - 54
Sharpness - 22
Colour - 42
Tint - g50/r50
Gamma - +1
Flesh - 0
Colour type - warm1
Colour space thing - Native
Everything else fancy - off, or auto or untouched.
Black tone to dark.
post #625 of 776
Does anyone know the default AV ADC Results in the SM?
post #626 of 776
hmmm. I think its time for me to try the hack might do this sunday
post #627 of 776
Hi eveybody! I've been reading through the earleir posts and had a few questions.

1) Does this void the warranty of the TV?

2) Will this fix any judder issues on the TV?

Thanks.
post #628 of 776
well after using the hack for about the last 2 months , and my main priority being gaming on the 360 i have found a way to get a almost identical picture to what im getting with the hack, except this way the picture is slightly better!! ok.. you need to have the xbox connected to hdmi/dvi port 1. then you need to rename the connection to pc by using your remote and hitting source, then tools, then edit name. rename it to pc. on your xbox select enhanced colour space.. my settings on the tv are..

(in pc mode)
picture mode: standard ("entertain" is good aswell, slightly more dynamic pic)
cell light: 20
contrast: 96
brightness: 67
sharpness: 100.. its totally different when in pc mode. i see no jagged edges etc. i have it on 20 for tv, etc.
screen adjustment: 16:9 .. screen fit not a option.
gamma: 0
white balance: r offset 24, g offset 27, b offset 24.. r gain 22, g gain 24, b gain 21
warm 2
hdmi black level normal.

if you got a xbox try it out. awesome pic. dont give me sh!t about the sharpness on a 100 until you try it either lol. i wouldn't have believed it either, but im tellin you no jaggies in pc mode.

also for standard tv (foxtel) im using janos666 settings from page 10, and WOW!. awesome.
post #629 of 776
whats the benefit of the PC mode?

it didnt make anything look better from PC to any mode :P. i switched back n forth.
post #630 of 776
did you make sure you used hdmi/dvi 1 port? Is your 360 out putting in 1080p? if you have done the hack you need to have the idle port as port 1 and the 360 connected to port 3. If they are the tv will go black for a second when it changes modes. I have done some research and it says that the way tv's are told to send the image should be different to the way it sends the image from a gaming console. the pc mode is the right mode for gaming. It is a much cleaner pic. If you have done it right and try my settings you will definitely see a vast improvement. i cant believe how much better it looks. others say it just helps ping for online gaming, i tried pc mode on my samsung lcd and it didn't help the way it does on this tv. get it to work and let me know what you think .. the colours are also more accurate, the greens are greener , the reds are redder, there is more depth to the colors etc, which is in contrast to when i tried it on my lcd which got a washed out pic as a result. I am now in love with the tv lol, no more fkn around with picture settings lol.. IM DONE
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:
  Return Home
  Back to Forum: Plasma Flat Panel Displays
AVS › AVS Forum › Display Devices › Plasma Flat Panel Displays › PNxxD550 advanced calibration unlocked!/Calibration Thread