Another Erskine-designed masterpiece (if I don't screw it up). - Page 4

+1. It's going to be a jaw-dropping home theater. It looks like the crew is doing really nice work executing the design.


Ted,

Is there a general rule about how far apart the two drywall surfaces should be to avoid the dreaded "triple leaf" problem?

More space = less triple leaf effect. No specific guidlines

Congrats on the progress,... looking very, very nice.

----The interior partition walls are INSIDE the sound isolation barrier of high mass damping, etc. These interior partition walls should be covered in 1/2 drywall or 1/4 pegboard ... in this case, 1/2 drywall to provide better support for the rails.

What other systems besides procella did you look at, any major reasons why your going with them?

Yoda's Insurance Policy

Hi KBlaw, Gerben from Procella here. I am subscribed to your thread, looking very good indeed. I saw the drawings for your room several months ago, when Dennis shared them with us. The combination of his room design and our speakers will guarantee a great audio result, and I mean that: guaranteed. The acoustics that are built-in to this design and the way that works together with our speakers just leaves only one outcome: prepare to be impressed! Its is going to be much bigger and much better than you can now imagine. We call that the Procella Effect. You will know what we mean with that once you turn the system on!
Dennis, along with other cinema designers and Procella dealers around the world, is an active member of our unofficial 'Sound-Board'. We solicit their input and feedback on new loudspeaker designs, from very basic points such as 'will it fit in that wall/riser?' to highly theoretical audio design discussions.
When Anders and I started Procella in 2005/2006, we knew there was a very small niche for a truly high quality loudspeaker line for dedicated cinema rooms. And really all we want is for people to build great rooms with great sound, just like yours. Have a great time building it!

Thats just plain awesome, just another example of just how large the space is.

I may have missed it earlier in the thread, but what size screen are you going with?

Interesting position for the rears on the back wall....very close to the box

Is the projector hush box in the direct line between speaker and any seating position? If so, I would move them. Rather do it now, than wait and do it later when you have more work to fix. If not in the direct line, you'll still have some reflective waves that weren't considered during design. Send the question to Dennis in this case.

What did the original drawing specify?

The room is simply too nice to compromise. I don't think it is that difficult to cut out part of that back wall drywall, move your speaker over, and patch up the hole with new double drywall/GG.

I would go ahead and bite the bullet if it were my room.

Good luck. Looks like it is going to be a fantastic room.

I had the same pain when I was discussing with BIGmouthinDC about my door not being centered between my columns after doing the GG/DD. Trust me, just cut it out and do it right or it will bug you forever. It doesnt take that long to fix and patch and caulk a wall. Bite the bullet and make it the way you want.

Interesting, I'd have thought the speaker should be below the height of the hush box....even if it is a foot or so from it....highlights my complete lack of knowledge about it.

Hello,

After reading your thread, I decided to hire Dennis to fix my theater. Mine has been completed for a bit now, but I always knew that the room was not correct. So I figured that since I put all this work into it, I want it to be right.

Looking forward to his drawings and hopefully the corrections will be able to be performed without drastic woodworking adjustments.

Keep those pics coming.

Bite the bullet and reposition the speakers, Did you really need that big of a hush box? What is going in there?

The projector/lens is 36" deep, 21" wide, and 15" high. Lens must be placed at a height equal to top of screen. Additional width is required for air intake/exhaust plumbing.

The surround array speakers are monopolar compression drivers. They must be mounted high and aimed downward into the listening area to reduce the distance delta seat to seat in the listening area to avoid large SPL differences between seats.

Not to sound too obtuse, but wouldn't any correction for sound fix that right away?

No, how would sound processing change the physics of how sound drops off as a function of distance?

Ah. I remember the days of car audio; cross firing horns from foot wells to reduce path length and level differences for improved imaging. In home theater application I guess this is the exact opposite of di-polar speakers spraying a wash of surround sound to reduce localization.
Man, in a hobby where the physics never change, it sure is difficult to keep up with best practices.

Really looking forward to seeing how a true professional puts things together. Thanks for all the detailed pictures.

I wish I needed a ladder to get to my basement ceiling. =(