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GT750 Thread, HDMI 1.4 Capable - Page 17

post #481 of 607

General information: I have had the GT750E projector for 4 months, and I am very happy with it. We use it daily for both 2D and 3D movies, games, TV shows, etc. It has over 430 hours of use, and the picture looks great! The setup is: 106" manual pull-down screen (on hooks - 7 3/4" - bottom edge from the ceiling) - 13' viewing distance - moderate ambient light - RF glasses (we like them).

Ceiling mount: I mounted the projector about a month after getting it. I was glad to do it since both the cables and unit were finally out of the way; and we could now use the Kinect and PS Move with it (the short-throw is ideal for this).

However, it was one of the more difficult DIY tasks I have ever done. Both the lack of zoom, and relatively large offset made the job difficult.

I have an 8' ceiling, and the AV cabinet (directly below) is 25" high from the floor. Considering the offset, his left a relatively tight space to fit a 106" image in.

First. I got the lowest profile ceiling mount I could find on the net (2.5"):
Ultra Low Profile Projector Mount LFM

http://www.mountdirect.com/ProductDe...roductCode=LFM

Next, I got advice from other AVS Forum-ers here:
Tips for short-throw, fixed focus, 8ft ceiling projector installation?
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1369687

All information in this thread is pertinent, except post #2. The the lack of zoom on this projector gave a whole new meaning to the saying: "measure twice, and cut once". By measuring very carefully, the final physical adjustments were handled by what was available on the mount - once the projector was affixed to it on the ceiling. The projector appears to be slightly pointing up.

Finally, I adjusted with the projector vertical keystone (-1), and vertical image shift (4) to fine tune the positioning. There is still a very slight keystone effect (about 1/2"), but I never notice it unless I look for it.
post #482 of 607
I think my light fitting is going to be in the way hen i ceiling mount! How did i miss that!
post #483 of 607
Quote:
Originally Posted by Cyrk View Post

While watching tonight I am having little white dots all over the screen. Any clue what could be causing that? I think it might be my hdmi cable. Hope its not the projector.

Still loving this thing, racing games are amazing

Check out this topic Help. optima 720gt White spots

Is this white spot (DMD chip fail) common?
post #484 of 607
Quote:
Originally Posted by Threefiddie View Post

anyone?

Here's another http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8U24Cl35EKE
post #485 of 607
[I've gotten two PM's for the following issue, with two different brands of receivers/AVRs (Pioneer and Sony), so I thought I should post the solution here (in case others have the same problem).]

Problem:
"I am having the same problem you described in your posts. My GT 750 won't accept a signal from my pioneer vsx-1020 receiver. Were you able to get yours to work or did you find a splitter that worked with the set up. Any advice you could give me would be great."


Solution:
"No splitter needed. Just hook up to the 750 HDMI1 input. Then turn off all the other inputs in the menu. The 750 seems to search too quickly. and not give the receiver a chance to sync up with it."


Solved:
"Thanks that did the job!!!"
post #486 of 607
Just got this projector a week ago and I like it a lot. If you've got the money to spring for a 1080p 3D projector, that would definitely be nicer. Especially if that 1080p 3D projector had a faster colorwheel. I only notice RBE when I shake my hand in front of my face (you can't see me...pose). So maybe I'm one of those lucky people with crappy and slow eyeballs. I really can't complain with this purchase as a 1080p 3D projector would've been almost twice as much.

I hate that it only memorizes 1 user setting. I did a brief setup with DVE basic disc, then I was watching something 3D so it defaults to the 3D setting. I thought it was slightly dim so I turned up brightness 2 notches....but that takes it out of the 3D picture mode and back to user mode...and resets the user mode. So now the user mode has the same picture settings as 3D except the brightness is turned up 2 notches...all my other settings got screwed.

I will set the projector settings for 2D and just live with 3D mode as is. Once I get a tripod or figure out someway to mount my eye one meter, I will be taking measurements and trying to calibrate a bit. (I'm seriously thinking about just tying the meter to a broom stick lol)

A few things I noticed:
Out of the box, change lamp mode to eco...far quieter and not that much dimmer.
Turn off brilliant color (set to 0). At anything above 0 I notice the greyscale looks bad. I have it set to warm color temp and even at brilliant color 1 I can see red in the greyscale (perhaps if I use cool color temp, it'd be blue...I don't know, need to test further).
Sharpness needs to be turned down quite a bit. I notice a lot of moire/aliasing artifact which I find really harsh to my eyes.

Hate the rubber lens cover.

I'll be sure to throw up a new thread when I get around to playing with my meter.

I'm using an onkyo txnr-709 that I got for about 450.00 refurb. Love this receiver. Using 1 hdmi out to LG 3D tv, and 1 to the projector. Everything works fine, no issues with hdmi synch to either tv. I can get 3D from both screens at the same time....though it's pointless since they're in the same room.

My friends monster glasses synched up perfectly. (I have the optoma rf glasses).

I use WDlive media streamer for SBS and over/under 3D movies and PS3 for bluray discs and gaming.
post #487 of 607
Quote:
Originally Posted by wyen78 View Post

Just got this projector a week ago and I like it a lot. If you've got the money to spring for a 1080p 3D projector, that would definitely be nicer. Especially if that 1080p 3D projector had a faster colorwheel. I only notice RBE when I shake my hand in front of my face (you can't see me...pose). So maybe I'm one of those lucky people with crappy and slow eyeballs. I really can't complain with this purchase as a 1080p 3D projector would've been almost twice as much.

I hate that it only memorizes 1 user setting. I did a brief setup with DVE basic disc, then I was watching something 3D so it defaults to the 3D setting. I thought it was slightly dim so I turned up brightness 2 notches....but that takes it out of the 3D picture mode and back to user mode...and resets the user mode. So now the user mode has the same picture settings as 3D except the brightness is turned up 2 notches...all my other settings got screwed.

I've had my GT750e a few weeks now also and am really enjoying it. I was hesitant to plunge fully into 1080p 3D as the offerings in my mind still have too many compromises for the $$$. I'll wait a few years then upgrade to 1080p 3D.
I've found that the RBE is becoming somewhat less noticeable than when I first got the projector. I still see it...but maybe my brain has adjusted a bit. It does suck we only have one user setting. I think I'm just going to have a 'cheat sheet' for a few adjustments from the standard 3D and Cinema modes and just use the remote to enter them in when I want to switch between 2D/3D.
post #488 of 607
Quote:
Originally Posted by blee0120 View Post

Why did you get the GT750? They are basically the same.

Actually, they're not. For 3D, the GT720 works only with Nvidia 3D Vision and the GT750 doesn't work with 3D Vision at all. The GT750 won't even work with the ini hack (if you attempted to do that to get 3D Vision, it won't work).
post #489 of 607
Quote:
Originally Posted by BishopLord View Post

Actually, they're not. For 3D, the GT720 works only with Nvidia 3D Vision and the GT750 doesn't work with 3D Vision at all. The GT750 won't even work with the ini hack (if you attempted to do that to get 3D Vision, it won't work).

You are right, they are not the same. For clarification, the GT750 uses NVIDIA 3DTV Play, instead of 3D Vision, since it is 1.4a compliant. [3DTV Play has worked fine for me, with Vesa mode and RF glasses.] Also, since the 750 is 1.4a compliant, it will display 3D content from 3d output devices (PS3, 3D Blu-ray player, etc.) without a converter (like Optoma 3D-XL). And, the 750 is brighter than the 720 (3000 lumens vs 2500), so it is better with more ambient room light.
post #490 of 607
I have been considering getting a GT750 for my first projector. My only issue is the space I have to install it into is only about 7.5 feet viewing distance from the screen. I would make the image as small as possible to reduce SDE and RBE (which are concerns for me) at I believe is 90 inches from 4"11 throw distance. I would be using it for gaming and movie watching, would this be adequate for viewing on this projector with 3D etc or is it too close? Could someone be kind enough to test this seating distance out for me on there setup to see if it works well. I could maybe go another way in the room with a pull down screen in front of an external door and window giving me around 9 foot viewing distance but its far from preferred but If its the only way to go I guess I could. I'm really interested in the low input lag for gaming and 3D features to upgrade from my current small feeling 46 inch LCD.
post #491 of 607
Quote:
Originally Posted by frunko1 View Post

I am having a color problem when watching blu rays on my ps3. I attached an image to show the problem.


Many highlights/shadows especially around reds are turning blue. I have tried turning down blue tint and played around with other setting but no luck.

Anyone else have this issue and could help?

Fixed it, had to do with the 24hz setting on ps3. Turn it off
post #492 of 607
Quote:
Originally Posted by xtylerx View Post

I have been considering getting a GT750 for my first projector. My only issue is the space I have to install it into is only about 7.5 feet viewing distance from the screen. I would make the image as small as possible to reduce SDE and RBE (which are concerns for me) at I believe is 90 inches from 4"11 throw distance. I would be using it for gaming and movie watching, would this be adequate for viewing on this projector with 3D etc or is it too close? Could someone be kind enough to test this seating distance out for me on there setup to see if it works well. I could maybe go another way in the room with a pull down screen in front of an external door and window giving me around 9 foot viewing distance but its far from preferred but If its the only way to go I guess I could. I'm really interested in the low input lag for gaming and 3D features to upgrade from my current small feeling 46 inch LCD.

you might find this link helpful, plug in your model number and you can see what size distance.
http://www.projectorcentral.com/Opto...ulator-pro.htm
If you already know about that and were asking just about 3D , sorry, I can't help you.
post #493 of 607
Hi, I have purchased a GT750 with the ZD201, and would like to purchase a couple more pairs of galsses but not sure if to ditch the ZD201 and buy the RF set.. Which is better DLP or RF and this projector supports both..
post #494 of 607
I have RF and I like em. But the dlp link also get great reviews. My friends have direct view 3D sets (LCD and plasmas) so I went with RF. If their tvs have VESA ports I can just bring my transmitter and glasses over, if they don't, I can get a pair of monstervision glasses that come with the ir-rf converter and use my glasses with it.

If your friends have DLP type televisions with 3D, I'd probably go with DLP link that way you and your buddies don't have to all buy 4 + pairs of glasses.

If this is no concern than maybe buy 1 pair of RF to go with the DLP one you already have and try both to see what you prefer.
post #495 of 607
Quote:
Originally Posted by wyen78 View Post

Just got this projector a week ago and I like it a lot. If you've got the money to spring for a 1080p 3D projector, that would definitely be nicer. Especially if that 1080p 3D projector had a faster colorwheel. I only notice RBE when I shake my hand in front of my face (you can't see me...pose). So maybe I'm one of those lucky people with crappy and slow eyeballs. I really can't complain with this purchase as a 1080p 3D projector would've been almost twice as much.

I hate that it only memorizes 1 user setting. I did a brief setup with DVE basic disc, then I was watching something 3D so it defaults to the 3D setting. I thought it was slightly dim so I turned up brightness 2 notches....but that takes it out of the 3D picture mode and back to user mode...and resets the user mode. So now the user mode has the same picture settings as 3D except the brightness is turned up 2 notches...all my other settings got screwed.

I will set the projector settings for 2D and just live with 3D mode as is. Once I get a tripod or figure out someway to mount my eye one meter, I will be taking measurements and trying to calibrate a bit. (I'm seriously thinking about just tying the meter to a broom stick lol)

A few things I noticed:
Out of the box, change lamp mode to eco...far quieter and not that much dimmer.
Turn off brilliant color (set to 0). At anything above 0 I notice the greyscale looks bad. I have it set to warm color temp and even at brilliant color 1 I can see red in the greyscale (perhaps if I use cool color temp, it'd be blue...I don't know, need to test further).
Sharpness needs to be turned down quite a bit. I notice a lot of moire/aliasing artifact which I find really harsh to my eyes.

Hate the rubber lens cover.

I'll be sure to throw up a new thread when I get around to playing with my meter.

I'm using an onkyo txnr-709 that I got for about 450.00 refurb. Love this receiver. Using 1 hdmi out to LG 3D tv, and 1 to the projector. Everything works fine, no issues with hdmi synch to either tv. I can get 3D from both screens at the same time....though it's pointless since they're in the same room.

My friends monster glasses synched up perfectly. (I have the optoma rf glasses).

I use WDlive media streamer for SBS and over/under 3D movies and PS3 for bluray discs and gaming.

Have you manage to do any calibration with the gt750 very interested in what settings you use for colour gain/bias. Thanks
post #496 of 607
the colors look fine to me, i've really done nothing to the projector but adjust the screen height slighly, i use all other settings default and everything looks fine to me, no like my plasma when i got it where everyone looked red.
post #497 of 607
So I'm really loving my setup with this projector (176") but am curious to know.

Are there any plans by optoma to give us a 1080p version of this bad boy? At thesize I'm running at, fine detail becomes a little pixely. Less noticeable in 3D for whatever reason.
post #498 of 607
Using PS3 as my 3d blu ray source, my GT750 sometimes goes into 'AV Mute' mode by itself when I stop 3D bluray playback. Seems to balk at the resolution change from 1080p24 to the ps3 xbar desktop. Does anyone else see this 'firmware' bug? Problem is the remote does NOT have a AV mute button only on the projector itself. And it's mounted on the ceiling not very convenient. I tried playing with pretty much every remote control/setting and not able to kick it out of AV mute mode only with press of button on projector.
post #499 of 607
Quote:
Originally Posted by jayc1976 View Post

Have you manage to do any calibration with the gt750 very interested in what settings you use for colour gain/bias. Thanks

Yes I did, I wrote about it in my amazon review of this projector. It's the review by Will titled Awesome or PITA: depends on user.

The color gain and bias work weird. I could not change the amount of red, blue, green with the gain. It didn't matter if it was on higher IRE patters or lower IRE patterns. You can check this yourself, put on an IRE pattern and change the settings for gain, they just do not change anything in the IRE pattern although you notice color changes if you have a normal scene or color patterns. Now change the bias and you'll see big changes in greyscale at both low and high IREs when you mess with the values.

The bias affects how much red, blue, or green is in the greyscale. The gain seems to have a big effect on the Y value (luminance) for the corresponding color.


I am projecting onto a wall so someone using a screen would have totally different settings. My "white" wall probably has a color bias to it and is almost certainly not D65K. But in general I found the projector in the default cinema mode (and default user) had too much red (110%), green was around 100%, blue was all the way down at 60%. To get proper greyscale my contrast was -4, brightness was 0, blue gain was 2, red gain was -21, green gain was -21. I changed the degamma to standard and used the medium color temp. Brilliant color = 0. I set the lamp mode to bright. Setting blue gain any higher caused me to run out of blue at 100 IRE.

Issue is that decreasing gain that much makes the image dim so I'm trying to balance getting good contrast and decent brightness with proper greyscale. I need to play around more, but I think I'll try to keep 30-70 IRE as good as possible and let blue run out at 90-100 IRE and then see if my brightness and contrast improve.

I did change the gain so that the colors would have proper luminance, even if the hue and saturation are off. I need to check back to see what I set those to.
post #500 of 607
After purchasing this projector and leaving it in the closet for 3 months, I finally unboxed it. Only played around with it about 20 minutes, but I know I'll like it. Figuring out cheap screen options will be a bear, but I'll come up with something. Here's a screenshot. Please note that lcd is overexposed on the shot, but of course in person it looks great.
post #501 of 607
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sonyad View Post

After purchasing this projector and leaving it in the closet for 3 months, I finally unboxed it. Only played around with it about 20 minutes, but I know I'll like it. Figuring out cheap screen options will be a bear, but I'll come up with something. Here's a screenshot. Please note that lcd is overexposed on the shot, but of course in person it looks great.

A screen can be as cheap as DIY with stuff like gator board or sintra. I'm just projecting mine onto a white wall....I know...sacrilege but I'm not buying a screen until I move into a new apartment in about 5 months cause I don't know how much space I'll have.

I think I'll be going with the elite spectrum series. It's a motorized screen, the 100inch is going for about 160 on amazon. I like that it comes with remote and it already setup with a 3 prong plug. I want the motorized screen cause I think I'll be adding remote lighting with zwave and it'd be nice to control everything with 1 remote using macros.

htdepot is also a good place to find cheap screens. If you have a wall you can paint you could also use screen goo but it's not really that cheap.
post #502 of 607
Yeah, htdepot has some nice options. Bugs me that they aren't open on the weekends. I'm not going to paint the wall, but I can get foamboard at the art store, but then I have to store that thing. Pull down would probably be the best option so that the screen can be placed in front of the tv, and then roll up out of way. I really need to assemble my Ikeahack tv riser so I can lower the tv a few inches (right now the tv is on a tall wire shelf over my Pioneer center) and continue to project on the wall over the tv, but get off the molding. In that situation I could mount the foamcore on the wall and use an inexpensive paint technique.
post #503 of 607
Someone posted a new gt750 video http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QyU3Y82RWJk
post #504 of 607
ebay electric screens, same thing as monoprice used to sell. real cheap and big sizes and I have mine come down over the 50 inch plasma that barely gets used anymore.
post #505 of 607
I just got a 750e a few weeks ago. I have a little blurry light spot that showed up yesterday. It's about 4-5" in diameter. I cleaned the lens with a microfiber cloth but didn't help. Is this possibly dust inside the lens?

Quote:


what happens if you ceiling mount this thing with the offset it has? my screen is 4 inches from the ceiling. the 4 inches is the electric housing and then the screen starts. maybe 5 inches if you count the inch of black border at the top. I'm guessing i would have tilt it up and then use keystone, will that be really bad? probably not doing it in this house, but i'll need to do it soon as the distance of this thing unfortunately puts the damn projector like a foot in front of the sofa. people practically trip over it and I really don't want to move further back from my screen.

I have mine ceiling mounted and I used an extension arm that came with the mount but there is a vertical shift option that lets you make a ton of adjustment. The vertical adjustment was easy to get right (you can even angle down and keystone the edges, but avoid that as much as possible as it hurts the PQ) but making sure its 100% level and 100% in the middle of the screen was a PITA, and I measured for everything...I thought. One thing I forgot was the offset from the ceiling mount. :\\

Also, FYI there is a digital zoom function, which was something I had a hard time finding info on before buying this PJ. This came to be a HUUUUUGE convenience for me when I was mounting the projector. It allows you too 'zoom out' - which for me was up to about 5 inches from an edge. So if you screw up your distance at all, or just need some flexibility where you mount it, you are are able to get some adjustment even though it doesn't have a real lens zoom. I pulled back the image size by '-2' which fits perfectly with my pull down screen.
post #506 of 607
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rainier2 View Post

I have mine ceiling mounted and I used an extension arm that came with the mount but there is a vertical shift option that lets you make a ton of adjustment.

"vertical shift option"
Does this projector have vertical shift ? Or did you mean the mount has vertical adjustments ?

I see in the projection calculater that this projector has an off-set.
I was wondering if this projector was ceiling mounted and the off-set is projecting the picture in a downward direction, meaning the screen must be put at a lower level than the projector. Could you then use the vertical shift of the projector to move the image in an upward directon on the wall/screen bringing it more inline with the mounted hight of the projector ?
post #507 of 607
Quote:
Originally Posted by The big picture View Post

"vertical shift option"
Does this projector have vertical shift ? Or did you mean the mount has vertical adjustments ?

I see in the projection calculater that this projector has an off-set.
I was wondering if this projector was ceiling mounted and the off-set is projecting the picture in a downward direction, meaning the screen must be put at a lower level than the projector. Could you then use the vertical shift of the projector to move the image in an upward directon on the wall/screen bringing it more inline with the mounted hight of the projector ?

it would project downward, you can shift it up, but only too a certain extent. maybe 8-10 inches.
post #508 of 607
If I'm not mistaken the vertical shift cuts off part of the image which isn't a problem if you have black bars but if you have an image that is 16:9 (16:10), you'll chop off part of the top.
post #509 of 607
Quote:
Originally Posted by wyen78 View Post

If I'm not mistaken the vertical shift cuts off part of the image which isn't a problem if you have black bars but if you have an image that is 16:9 (16:10), you'll chop off part of the top.

If you have a 16:9 source there is a good amount of extra space which is unused to allow shift without cutting off. If you use a 16:9 screen this extra image height in the native 16:10 DLP thru use is wasted and will overshoot your screen's height anyway if it's placed to fill a 16:9 height...
post #510 of 607
Quote:
Originally Posted by mikemav View Post

If you have a 16:9 source there is a good amount of extra space which is unused to allow shift without cutting off. If you use a 16:9 screen this extra image height in the native 16:10 DLP thru use is wasted and will overshoot your screen's height anyway if it's placed to fill a 16:9 height...

So when using the projection calculator I can just click between the 16:10 & 16:9 tab and the difference between the two in screen hight is how much v-shift I will have if using a 16:9 screen.

The top of the 16:10 screen image is where I can v-shift the top of the 16:9 screen to..Correct ?
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