The Official Yamaha RX-V867 Owners Thread - Page 35

Glad to help as those that have helped me in the past!

Not sure how many still monitor this thread, but my receiver is having huge problems connecting to the internet. It connects to my LAN just fine, and I can control it from my iPhone using the Yamaha app. Sometimes I can get a connection to the internet by switching between Static and DHCP settings, but that is not very reliable. It worked great when new, but all of the streaming functions are now useless. Anyone else seeing this?

Sounds like a dns issue between the yamaha, your router, and the internet.

Try powering down all network devices, including your internet modem if it is a separate device, then removing power from your router [for at least 60 seconds]. Power up the internet modem, wait 60 seconds or so, until you see the lights indicating a successful internet connection. Then power up the router, wait 60 seconds or so, then power up any other network devices, including the yamaha.

If that doesn't work, try assigning an ip address that is outside of the dhcp pool used by your router. For example, f your router uses 192.168.1.1 as its own address, and a dhcp range of 192.168.1.2 thru 192.168.1.100, then you could assign, say, 192.168.1.200 to your Yamaha. If your router is using a dhcp range of 192.168.1.2 thru 192.168.1.255, then narrow the range that the router is using as a pool before assigning a fixed address. Make sure the last three digits are not used by any other network device with a fixed ip.

After you set the fixed IP address at the yamaha, set the primary dns to 8.8.8.8 and the secondary to 8.8.4.4

No, sorry. I don't use the internet functions as much as I used to. You can try changing the DNS server as was suggested. I must thank you though. I didn't know there was an update to 2.34 on the web site. I just downloaded it. It can't fix anything for me since nothing was broken. Obviously you want to get the network working before you use it to download an update of several Mb.

I use my router as a DNS server with HDCP enabled and reservation for the AVR. It's the only 100Mbs item I have, so the LED on my router lets me know of all activity easily.

Thanks, I've already done all of that (I use the Google public DNS servers as well). I reserve the first 30 IP addresses on my router for things that I set to static IPs. Sometimes setting it to a static IP allows it to work for a while, sometimes back to DHCP gets it working, but it always dies after I put it in standby, and lately I can't get it to work at all. The issue has been going on for many months, I just haven't bothered with it much since I have so many streaming devices, most of the stuff I would stream on the Yamaha I can stream on something else with a lot less effort. Not everything though, so it would be nice to get it figured out.

Could easily be a weak pin punch on either your wall jack or your patch cable [especially if self-terminated]. Simple testers don't pick that up.

One wrinkle here...

Have now discovered that with Party Mode active, the Option -> Tone Control is disabled. You cannot adjust bass/treble while in this state (i.e. the bass/treble tone controls are inoperable when Party Mode is on). This option is apparently available only with Party Mode off.

However, it does seem that whatever the current tone control values are (set with Party Mode off), they appear to get carried over to the Zone2 speakers once you turn Party Mode on. In other words, they appear to have simply disabled tone control adjustment (from whatever it currently is) in Party Mode. They haven't forced "flat" (i.e. bass/treble = 0) in Party Mode.

I'm basing this on what I hear, although there's obviously some time delay going back and forth with/without the tone adjustment (e.g. increasing treble) so it's not an instant A/B situation to make it easy to confirm what I'm saying. But I believe my ears are telling me that this is happening.

So, if you do want to adjust tone control for the Zone2 speakers (and in my case, I have no primary Zone1 speakers to worry about) you need to do it while Party Mode is off (meaning you have no sound coming from the Zone2 speakers), then turn Party Mode on and see if it sounds right. If you need further adjustment, you have to again turn Party Mode off, adjust tone controls further, and then go back to Party Mode on, etc., etc.

Obviously not an insurmountable problem, just a bit of a slight nuisance. I'm just passing along this discovery.

Yeah, it's strange what the party mode allows/doesn't allow. I never thought about the tone control since I am passing it to an amp in the other room that has controls. I usually leave everything flat.

Not sure how many are using both of the HDMI outputs, but I've seen some strange behavior.

I am using both HDMI outputs in my bar/theater. One goes to a Samsung HDTV (non 3D) mounted over the bar, and the other goes to an Epson 5010 3D projector mounted in the adjacent theater.

Initially, I noticed an issue when trying to watch 3D content. Even with the bar TV switched off, the 3D source player would detect a non-3D display, and refuse to work. I get around that by disconnecting the HDMI cable from the bar TV before starting the 3D source. The 3D projector is then properly detected and all is well.

I have noticed a bunch of other issues since then. Basically, as long as I'm watching 2D content and BOTH display devices are powered on, everything is great. However, when the projector is on and the TV is off, I get strange behavior. For example, watching DirecTV will frequently give me an error telling me I don't have a compatible HDMI cable and can't watch an HD show. If I then turn on the bar TV, all is well. I can even turn the TV back off at this point. Or, I can simply unplug the HDMI cable from the TV. Either works.

When I use Apple TV with only the projector on, It works, but the video flashes off and back on every few seconds. Again, either turning the TV on, or unplugging the HDMI cable from the TV resolves the issue.

Trying to determine if something is malfunctioning, or if I'm doing something with the HDMI outputs that it was not designed to do? My electronics are mounted inside a cabinet that is not easy to get to, so manually unplugging cables is a PIA. I'm wondering if using just ONE of the HDMI outputs, and an external HDMI switch of some sort would resolve the problem.

Have you tried to disable CEC control?

Hmmm. I have no idea what you are talking about, so I'm guessing NO.

Time to dig the manual out.

OS->Setup->HDMI Control->HDMI Control Off
If it's off, try it on.
I'm not a big fan of HDMI control. HDMI selection can also be made via the remote control (HDMI out).

Has anyone update the firmware to v2.34 (Registered Date : 12/25/2012) ? Would like to hear what the results have been.

From the Yamaha site:
This firmware includes the following improvements.
1. Compatibility with the latest Napster network music streaming service (in Europe)
*Music service availability varies by region.
2. Improves SiriusXM Internet Radio connectivity (in USA/Canada)
3. Improves operation stability

Post #1024. No changes that affect my use.

I don't understand how to get this TV to output 1080p.... It says in the features that it converts to 1080p. I have a new Panasonic 65" VT50 plasma TV. I am watching HDTV (ESPN X-Games). When I hit the INFO button on the TV, it says 1080i.

The instruction manual on this issue is very confusing.

Huh? This is the 867 thread.

If you are using component video or HDMI from your source component (e.g. cable box STB/DVR, satellite receiver, etc.) to the 867 then the 867 WILL NOT UPCONVERT what it receives. It simply passes it through, exactly as the source device delivers it. Now ESPN is a 720p channel, so if 1080i is being received at the TV it is not the 867 which is doing the upconversion. You must have your cable box set to "1080i" output.

What is your source cable/satellite provider and equipment? If it has a "native" setting then 720p will be sent from DVR to 867 as 720p and then onto the HDTV as 720p. If the channel is 1080i then it will be sent from the DVR to 867 as 1080i and then onto the HDTV as 1080i.

Upconvert from 720p (ESPN) to 1080i (what your VT50 shows) can only be done by the source device, as it is definitely NOT done by the 867.

I was unaware that the 65VT50 "converts source to 1080p". Where did you see that claimed or mentioned? It can of course display 1080p source to it, but it does not convert to 1080p.

If your cable DVR is a new one, it might be able to upconvert to 1080p for delivery to the 867, which will then pass that 1080p onto the HDTV. But upconverting 720p or 1080i channels must be done in the cable box, as it is not done by the 867 nor is it done (to my knowledge) by the 65VT50. Of course remember that the source program is still only 720p or 1080i, so upconverting to 1080p is not the same as presenting true 1080p source from a BluRay player to the 867 which then passes on that true 1080p to the 65VT50.

Hi there, I meant to say 867 instead of TV in my post... whoops.

I have AT&T Uverse. The highest setting it has to display footage in is 1080i..... that's what mine is set at.

The Yamaha 867 website's page, as well as a bunch of other sites for the Yamaha 867 say that it upscales to 1080p. Where did you read that the 867 does not upscale to 1080p? The manual also says that it does.

How is my 1080p plasma going to display 720p? I thought a 1080p TV can only display 1080p.
Edited by nikolausp - 1/24/13 at 10:05pm

Then you are asking that Uverse receiver to upconvert the 720p of ESPN and all other 720p channels to 1080i for output via HDMI.

And then you are sending that 1080i via HDMI on to the Panny (through the 867 which does NO CONVERSION FOR HDMI 720p, 1080i or 1080p SOURCE as described on the chart shown on page 136 of the user manual PDF, and further described on "Processing" setting description on page 105 of the PDF).

When that 1080i (which appears to the Panny as its "source resolution", which is what you see onscreen when you press INFO for the Panny) arrives at the Panny it will absolutely then be upconverted again, this time to 1080p which is the "native display resolution" of the 65VT50 (and many other sets, obviously). But INFO will show 1080i, which is what the Panny received... which is what your Uverse receiver sent out because that's what you have set as the "fixed" output resolution.

So you have gone through TWO conversions... 720p to 1080i in the Uverse DVR, and then 1080i to 1080p in the Panny. Personally I'd choose "native" on the Uverse DVR if possible, which will send out 720p as 720p... through the 867 untouched, and then on to the Panny where 720p will be upconverted to 1080p by the Panny. One conversion, no interlacing (from 720p to 1080i by the Uverse box) and deinterlacing (from 1080i to 1080p by the Panny for display). This should produce very much improved images from ESPN on your Panny, since there is no interlacing/deinterlacing involved and 720p to 1080p is very smooth.

Of course if you also watch 1080i channels, in the absence of "native" on the Uverse DVR you should now choose 1080i, because that's what the source program is at. Just pass it to the Panny (untouched through the 867) that way and let the Panny do the upconvert from 1080i source to 1080p for display since I have more faith in the Panny's upconvert than in the Uverse box. You certainly don't want to leave your Uverse box down at 720p when watching a 1080i channel.

And if you do have an option of "native" for the Uverse box, ESPN will thus arrive at the Panny as 720p and INFO will show 720p (because that's what INFO shows... the arriving "source" resolution). But you will definitely see that 720p upconverted to 1080p for display, but that's not what INFO shows since EVERYTHING is always displayed at 1080p on the Panny.

Only from analog 480i source and 480i/480p from HDMI, not for HDTV resolutions of 720p/1080i and BluRay resolution of 1080p from HDMI/component.

It will upconvert whatever you feed it to 1080p, which is the "native display resolution" of the Panny.

Feed it 720p and that gets upconverted to 1080p for display. And INFO will show 720p.

Feed it 1080i and that gets upconverted to 1080p for display. And INFO will show 1080i.

Feed it 1080p and no upconversion is required. That 1080p source will go straight to the display screen at 1080p. And INFO will show 1080p.

I use a projector and tv, Mitsubishi and Panasonic. No problems like you are saying, but neither is 3d.

I have a Sony 3d ps3 display that I plug in from time to time and watch a small movie... I sit close enough that it is almost as large as the projector screen relatively. If it doesn't detect 3d at the moment the bd player comes on, 3d will not play, but other than that, 3d appears to work. The tv is plugged in and the projector is not when I use 3d.

Thanks. I checked this - it was off. I turned it on, and that didn't change anything. I also updated the firmware, with small hope that the "general stability improvements" might help this (and the networking problems that I've been having since day one). No improvement on either count.

The bar TV seems to be fine when the projector is off, but the projector is NOT fine when the TV is off. Maybe there is something odd at the HDMI port on the Samsung TV.

In any case, maybe it would be cleaner to use just one of the HDMI outputs on the receiver, and run that to an HDMI switch. Something that has the ability to output to TV, projector, or both? I haven't researched it, I'm assuming something like that exists?

Perhaps. If you need one, I have used this:
http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=101&cp_id=10110&cs_id=1011001&p_id=2786&seq=1&format=2

Good luck.

Yup, but you have to open it up and jumper it to make it go from one to the other. I used the same thing. I think there are instructions in the comments. It worked on Yamahas, but not on my pioneer, that is why I have the 867.

Must be some confusion. I have a manual HDMI A-B switch that needs no power and has no LED indicators. Right now it's a paper weight since I don't need it anymore with the 867. BTW, it does look like there are LEDs, but it's purely mechanical. HDS-201 can be seen on the large view.

Yeah, it must have been something they made afterward. They probably saw all the people hacking the one I have. I can't find it or I'd tell you the model.

I just did the firmware update. It hung and needed to be restarted. I'm shocked that they updated the firmware on such an old receiver. Too bad they didn't add anything.

Thanks for the report. Been holding off on the update until more feedback is out there. Worried that my workarounds of some of the "features" might be lost.

I doubt you'll get much feedback since they don't advertise much. I have been using it for a month. No detectable changes and nothing lost or gained.

I am not an expert on HDMI by any means, but here is a theory. If anyone sees holes in this, please correct me.

HDMI specs define the protocol but not everyone implements the protocol the same. There can be a lot of communicatin problems with HDMI. What may be happening is a handshaking problem. As an example, take a blue ray player and a TV. This is a simplified version of the handshake sequence. When you first turn them on, the BR (source) queries the TV. The TV has a chip that contains identity information and the TV returns that info to the BR. When the BR is satisfied that it is talking to a legal device, it will establish a link with the TV. It then passes encryption keys to the TV which the TV uses to decrypt protected content passed from the BR. If there is not a successful handshake, the BR will not send out any content and may or may not generate error messages. It is possible that when you turn off the TV, the HDMI interface in the BR is not reinitializing. When you try to connect to the 3D, the BR remembers the info from the TV and refuses to play because it is not the same device. One of the signals in an HDMI cable is called Hot Plug Detect. This allows a source to detect when a device is plugged in or uplugged and it will reinitialize the HDMI interface. In your case, the BR would then negotiate a connection with the 3D. Once the BR to 3D connection has been negotiated, the BR would probably ignore the TV. It is possible that the DirecTV, another source, is not reinitializing its interface as well. Again, just a theory.

If the above is true, a 1 X 2 switch would probably cure the problem. When you switch from one HDMI path to the other, the Hot Plug Detect signal should temporarily disconnect causing the HDMI to reinitialize. There could be two problems that I can think of. 1 - You would most likely end up with either the TV or 3D, but not both at the same time. If you did find a switch that output both channels at the same time, you would probably end up with the same handshake problems. 2 - from what I have read, most switches have no problem passing HD video, but it may take a bit of trial and error to find one that will pass full HD audio. On the bright side, there are IR remote controlled switches available so you will not need to get up to change the switch.

Good luck. Let us know what your solution turns out to be.
Edited by CD_in_NM - 2/3/13 at 9:55am

[/quote]
0. do all 876s require a firmware update even new units?

1.I only have wireless internet connection what type of wireless bridge is recommended for both firmware and internet radio?

2.or can I downdown the FW to my PC (thats connected to AVR w/ a HDMI cable) then transfer it to the 876? if yes what is the procedure?

3.is it possiable that a incorrect firmware update could ruin the 876?

Last ? for right now how much better will a 876 sound wise and video wise be compared to the Yamaha RXV465?

Please excuse me I haven't read the intire 876 thread which I intend on, these are 4 quick ?s
Thanks STB

STB, I can't seem to quote your post. What version are you running now? The latest, 2.34, doesn't fix anything for me since nothing it affects is broken.