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The Official Yamaha RX-V867 Owners Thread - Page 26

post #751 of 1176
I did get arc working and it was a pita, the directions are unclear. Since I did that, I have not used it so it'll take a while to figure it out. It should be dead simple, shouldn't it?

Panasonic Plasma is doing the arc.

Gear mentioned in this thread:

post #752 of 1176
Quote:
Originally Posted by joegovernale View Post

I have a duplicate of your system and the same issue. I cannot get any audio, including OTA, via the HDMI cable. I can get audio from the Samsung TV (MP3s, OTA and others) when I connect an optical cable from the Samsung audio out to the AV4 optical input on the AVR and switch the AVR audio inputs manually.

Is anyone able to pass audio through the HDMI cable? If so, what are your HDMI settings. It would be nice to determine whether the issue is with the Samsung TV not outputting the audio or the Yamaha receiver not accepting the signal. I have contacted Samsung and Yamaha support with no help.

The AVR option choices through SETUP>HDMI>TV AUDIO INPUT does not include HDMI, only the non-HDMI inputs and the default is set to AV4. The Yamaha manual (page 106 and 123) confuses the issue. Page 123 shows the single HDMI cable connection and page 106 describes the ARC setup (TV audio input choices are AV1-4 or audio 1-2, HDMI1 default=AV4).

Pulled optical line from TV (Sony EX700).

On TV, enable CEC & external speakers. Tuner input.

On V867, Setup->HDMI->HDMI Control = on, Control Select = OUT1(TV1), ARC = ON, TV Audio Input (TV1, AV1) but that was for optical, Audio Output = Out2, Out1 grayed out. I made no changes to the Setup->Inputs.

So with AVR on, TV on, sound comes from AVR speakers. Turn off AVR and sound reverts to TV speakers. Control Sync is grayed out, so I don't get a pass through option and sound doesn't go back to the AVR if I turn it on second or unless I power cycle the TV. A small dim TV is shown as the physical source on the front panel when ARC is working. With optical it shows AV1. Physical source is upper left. Logical (named) source is bright and in the middle. What it displays doesn't count for this operation.

Since these two are not really happy this way, I do not have TV sound if I switch the AVR to another input and then back. So I leave everything off and use optical for the TV sound. Where I used to work we had a Magnavox DVDR and RCA panel connected with HDMI. If the DVR was on first it didn't find the TV and gave up looking. So the TV had to be on first. I'm not a big fan of CEC or HDMI control with ARC. Perhaps a Yamaha TV doesn't have this problem.
post #753 of 1176
Quote:
Originally Posted by gregoryperkins View Post

Is the arc working for tv? If you are using a cable box, just slap an antenna on, or cable and scan for channels.

Why are you trying to play through the tv? You can push directly to the 867 with w7 or pull from a dlna server.

I was messsing with the "gadgets" that the TV has and one is a music folder which shows all the files on my pc and plays them back through the TV speakers but I thought it should push the audio via ARC to my receiver. Like joegovernale stated I can't figure out what is /or is not working properly. I've tried various configurations of the setup decribed in the maunal on both pages 106 and 123 to no avail.
post #754 of 1176
Quote:
Originally Posted by RobertTX View Post

I was messsing with the "gadgets" that the TV has and one is a music folder which shows all the files on my pc and plays them back through the TV speakers but I thought it should push the audio via ARC to my receiver. Like joegovernale stated I can't figure out what is /or is not working properly. I've tried various configurations of the setup decribed in the maunal on both pages 106 and 123 to no avail.

Sorry, but my TV plays via ARC for both DNLA (XP WMP Wired) and via internet (Pandora WiFi). Keep at it. There must be a combination that works.

TV: Sony 32EX700
Router: Netgear WNDR4000
My V867 is wired to the router. Both the TV and V867 can find the PC with the music on it.
post #755 of 1176
Quote:
Originally Posted by RobertTX View Post

Equipment:
Samsung PN64D8000 TV
Yamaha RX-V867 AV Reciever

HDMI cable connected at HDMI Out #2 of the RX-V867 going into HDMI 2 (ARC) of the TV.

RX-V867 has HDMI ARC "on" and chose AV4 as the source to which audio signals will be assigned.

The 64D8000 has the sound set to "external"

I can get the music to play on the TV but I am not getting the sound to go back to the AV receiver via the HDMI ARC.

Any suggestions are appreciated. Thanks in advance.

Hi RobertTX, maybe I'm reading wrong but isn't HDMI-2 Out should be AV1 as the input source by default?

HDMI Control - On
Control Select - Out2 (TV2)
ARC - On
TV Audi Input - AV1
Audio Output - Amp

Set Samsung tv AnyNet+ and AnyNet Receiver to "On".

Also after the settings, try turning tv off and on and receiver off and on as well.
post #756 of 1176
Quote:
Originally Posted by JChin View Post

Hi RobertTX, maybe I'm reading wrong but isn't HDMI-2 Out should be AV1 as the input source by default?

HDMI Control - On
Control Select - Out2 (TV2)
ARC - On
TV Audi Input - AV1
Audio Output - Amp

Set Samsung tv AnyNet+ and AnyNet Receiver to "On".

Also after the settings, try turning tv off and on and receiver off and on as well.

Ok I set the TV Audio Input to AV1 but I can't select "Amp" for Audio Output (it's greyed out).

I also set the TV AnyNet+ to on but it doesn't show any receiver as being available.
Maybe the RX-V867 isn't an AnyNet device.

Re-started both units but no joy.

The AV reciever manual says the display should display "TV" on the front panel when the TV audio is input to the unit using ARC. But I'm not even getting that to happen.
Cable issue?

I'm reading manuals and trying different things but no luck so far.

Thanks for all the suggestions - I'll try every one of them.
post #757 of 1176
Quote:
Originally Posted by RobertTX View Post

I also set the TV AnyNet+ to on but it doesn't show any receiver as being available.

Maybe the RX-V867 isn't an AnyNet device.

Re-started both units but no joy.

Thanks for all the suggestions - I'll try every one of them.

Thats the problem, tv is not auto detecting HDMI connection. Maybe try a soft reset on the tv. Disconnect HDMI cable at tv and unplug tv power cord for a few minutes. Connect HDMI cable to tv (HDMI-2 for ARC), plug in power cord to wall outlet and turn on tv. Go into AnyNet+ menu and check settings and if device (receiver) is detected.
post #758 of 1176
Quote:
Originally Posted by RobertTX View Post

Maybe the RX-V867 isn't an AnyNet device.

It shows up as an Anynet device on my Samsung TV. I can adjust the AVR volume by using the TV remote, both the TV volume OSD and the AVR volume OSD show up on the TV simultaneously. This happens with HDMI only cable connected or with the HDMI and optical cable to AV-4.

My current hookup has the HDMI connected to HDMI 2 on the Samsung and HDMI OUT1 on the Yamaha. I have actually tried it with the HDMI connected to all of the HDMI inputs on the TV and the control pass-through works(volume control and the AVR powers off when the TV is powered off) and "RX-V867" shows up on the Anynet OSD. My main input source is a Scientific Atlanta cable box connected to HDMI-3. Don't know that it matters but I have another Samsung TV (non-CEC capable) connected to the AVR HDMI OUT2. My options setup:

On the TV, Anynet is set to ON.
On the AVR, SETUP>HDMI CONTROL = ON, SETUP>CONTROL SELECT = OUT1, SETUP>ARC = ON, SETUP>HDMI>TV AUDIO INPUT" = AV-4.
post #759 of 1176
I am trying to do the firmware update. Receiver is plugged directly into the Router (Hardwired)

Got into advanced mode and start and jsut get a "verifying" screen and nothing else. Have left receiver alone for 30 minutes+

I saw a few other people have this problem but no resolve.
post #760 of 1176
Nevermind that I have found a solve. I had the IP configured manually through the interface. Went back to Auto DHCP and the update took no problem.

So if you are getting the Verifying hang, try setting the network settings back to automatic while being hardwired to your router/internet connection.
post #761 of 1176
I upgraded a few weeks back. Hardwired to router. Completion was less than 15 minutes. Just downloaded it to my computer hard drive in ~2 minutes so the server seems OK.
post #762 of 1176
Quote:
Originally Posted by JChin View Post

Thats the problem, tv is not auto detecting HDMI connection. Maybe try a soft reset on the tv. Disconnect HDMI cable at tv and unplug tv power cord for a few minutes. Connect HDMI cable to tv (HDMI-2 for ARC), plug in power cord to wall outlet and turn on tv. Go into AnyNet+ menu and check settings and if device (receiver) is detected.

Ok I feel like an idiot.

I have been messing with the wrong cables on the back of the receiver.

Once I realized what I was doing wrong, I have been able to turn on AnyNet receiver and have set the AVR such: On the AVR, SETUP>HDMI CONTROL = ON, SETUP>CONTROL SELECT = OUT1, SETUP>ARC = ON, SETUP>HDMI>TV AUDIO INPUT" = AV-4.

I have everything working now. I appreciate everyones help/suggestions.

I'll crawl back into my hole now.
post #763 of 1176
hi guys.

I'm using this avr to power 2 small speakers and a 10" sub I just picked up (previous sub that matched the 2 small speakers did not have a built-in amp). The sub works, but it seems like my setup is very treble-heavy. I calibrated the system with YPAO and it set the speakers to 0 and the sub to +1.5. So I tried upping the sub to +3.0 and it didn't really help (still treble-heavy). Before I keep increasing the sub output, I want to try a few other things. I've read that when running small speakers, you may want to increase the LPE for the sub to a higher frequency. How can I go about doing this with the receiver? I couldn't find anything in the gui. And another thing, the sub I have has its own LPE settings: 40Hz, 80Hz, 120Hz, and off/LPE. I set it to off/LPE since i presume this gives the AVR control. This is what I should do, correct?

Thanks in advance.
post #764 of 1176
Quote:
Originally Posted by 123 View Post

hi guys.

I'm using this avr to power 2 small speakers and a 10" sub I just picked up (previous sub that matched the 2 small speakers did not have a built-in amp). The sub works, but it seems like my setup is very treble-heavy. I calibrated the system with YPAO and it set the speakers to 0 and the sub to +1.5. So I tried upping the sub to +3.0 and it didn't really help (still treble-heavy). Before I keep increasing the sub output, I want to try a few other things. I've read that when running small speakers, you may want to increase the LPE for the sub to a higher frequency. How can I go about doing this with the receiver? I couldn't find anything in the gui. And another thing, the sub I have has its own LPE settings: 40Hz, 80Hz, 120Hz, and off/LPE. I set it to off/LPE since i presume this gives the AVR control. This is what I should do, correct?

Thanks in advance.

Easy way to make the sub work hard is to use Setup->Speaker->Manual Setup->Configuration-> Extra Bass. The crossover is a bit more complicated since I never heard of LPE. If that means "no control", then that would be my choice. Obviously you have subwoofer to "use/on" also. This way you can also leave your fronts to large unless you might damage them. Also, check the front display, since it shows active speakers. One should be SW.
post #765 of 1176
Joe, the correct answer is to buy 3 new large speakers for the front and put the 2 smalls as rears!

Never miss an opportunity to upgrade your system!
post #766 of 1176
Quote:
Originally Posted by gregoryperkins View Post

Joe, the correct answer is to buy 3 new large speakers for the front and put the 2 smalls as rears!

Never miss an opportunity to upgrade your system!

When I bought my Sony front speakers because they have a really good high end, I put some small rears up high. But then I realized I had two old but very large Pioneer 3-way speakers collecting dust. I placed them far behind me and recalibrated stuff. It's true that I use DSP a whole bunch since most of my content is 2ch stereo. But having rear large has been a really big improvement. The sound field is broad and works good for Blu-ray, SACD and TV. I have no plans to change anything for a while. I'm waiting for a really good reason. It will happen but I don't know when.
post #767 of 1176
Quote:
Originally Posted by JoeKustra View Post

Easy way to make the sub work hard is to use Setup->Speaker->Manual Setup->Configuration-> Extra Bass. The crossover is a bit more complicated since I never heard of LPE. If that means "no control", then that would be my choice. Obviously you have subwoofer to "use/on" also. This way you can also leave your fronts to large unless you might damage them. Also, check the front display, since it shows active speakers. One should be SW.

Yes, I believe LPE is "no control." There is definitely signal to the sub and it is working, it is just far too quiet. I will give the "extra bass" option a shot. What's the reasoning for setting my front speakers to large? YPAO automatically set them to small (and they are, in fact, quiet small).

Quote:
Originally Posted by gregoryperkins View Post

Joe, the correct answer is to buy 3 new large speakers for the front and put the 2 smalls as rears!

Never miss an opportunity to upgrade your system!

I bought this AVR for my dad's new house, thinking we would set up a nice 5.1 and use the old 2.1 for the living room for music (dual zone). He decided he wants to stick to a single 2.1 so that he doesnt have to run wires (to his credit, there is no good solution to the wire running issue in this particular room). I gave up on trying to convince him otherwise, so now I'm trying to set up the 2.1 as well as possible.
post #768 of 1176
Quote:
Originally Posted by 123 View Post

Yes, I believe LPE is "no control." There is definitely signal to the sub and it is working, it is just far too quiet. I will give the "extra bass" option a shot. What's the reasoning for setting my front speakers to large? YPAO automatically set them to small (and they are, in fact, quiet small).

The speakers came with a manual the gives their low frequency response. If it is 100Hz or higher, then small would be logical. Should it say 20Hz (a stretch) then it can't hurt to let them get some bass. My front speakers have a 6.25" woofer. And calling that a woofer is a stretch too. But the manual is funny, saying that 6.25 is a magic number. Ok, I don't expect the windows to rattle from the front bass, but I don't want them silent either. It's obviously a personal thing, and they are 5' off the floor in a rather live room (paneling). I have a 125w sub that works great. It's ported down, and no longer available or I would buy a second. I don't have a center front speaker, but I do have a rear difference speaker (Hahler effect). Like I said, I'm mostly music.

You have control. If setting them large or small makes a difference, do what sounds better. I don't know your primary content source or room characteristics. All that matters is you get the sound you like. Don't forget about those white Scene buttons. With one source you can have four different sound fields. Sadly, Scene buttons can't change a speaker size.
post #769 of 1176
Quote:
Originally Posted by JoeKustra View Post

The speakers came with a manual the gives their low frequency response. If it is 100Hz or higher, then small would be logical. Should it say 20Hz (a stretch) then it can't hurt to let them get some bass. My front speakers have a 6.25" woofer. And calling that a woofer is a stretch too. But the manual is funny, saying that 6.25 is a magic number. Ok, I don't expect the windows to rattle from the front bass, but I don't want them silent either. It's obviously a personal thing, and they are 5' off the floor in a rather live room (paneling). I have a 125w sub that works great. It's ported down, and no longer available or I would buy a second. I don't have a center front speaker, but I do have a rear difference speaker (Hahler effect). Like I said, I'm mostly music.

You have control. If setting them large or small makes a difference, do what sounds better. I don't know your primary content source or room characteristics. All that matters is you get the sound you like. Don't forget about those white Scene buttons. With one source you can have four different sound fields. Sadly, Scene buttons can't change a speaker size.

That's true, no need to take the YPAO as gospel since many users seem to get terrible results with it. I'll tinker with it and see what I end up with.
post #770 of 1176
I want to utilize the "Presence" speakers using Zone 2 output on the V867 for a 7.1 system. I also want to utilize my remote speakers using analog sound feed to other rooms in the house and on the Lanai. All remote speakers were previously fed from "B" on my old Yamaha HTR-5660 through a Niles Six-Pair Speaker Selector SS-6, outputting to remote impedance matching volume controls at 4 ohms. I see on page 30 of the OM that there are instructions for connecting an external amplifier using the pre-outs. It would seem to me that I could use the 1. Front (PRE OUT) jacks to send source to external amp, that would in turn output to the Niles SS-6 input, and output that to impedance matching volume control inputs at each remote speaker location.

I am a bit confused about the NOTE on page 30 of the V867 OM--"When a component is connected to the PRE OUT terminals, do not connect speakers to the SPEAKERS terminals corresponding to those PRE OUT terminals." That makes little sense to me, although the 2nd sentence on page 30 describes using an external amp to "enhance" the speaker output. Why can I not output to the Front Speaker L/R, as shown on page 17, and concurently PRE OUT (1) Front to simply do just what it says, i.e. PRE OUT (1) Front PRE OUT jacks? Why would the V867 care?

I would appreciate all feedback and if someone has done this, and it works, could you recommend a very basic single or double I/O, but decent, amp to serve remote speaker system? If I am misinterpreting (not unusal) the NOTE please explain. A confirmation that is doable would lead me to purchase amp and a set of duplicate Klipsch speakers to match the rest of my system.

I realize that I could test this using my old HRT-5660 as external amp configured to input V-867 PRE OUT to 5660 Front L/R PRE IN and out put Front L/R to the Niles. I resist because its a major pita to move the wall units, and my wife will be switching AS to CS (Autumn Stuff to Christmas Stuff) utilizing my I/O about two weeks from now and that would be a perfect time to move wall units, do the additional connections and hide the cabling that shows in the attached photo.

Thanks
LL
post #771 of 1176
Quote:
Originally Posted by seasound View Post

I want to utilize the "Presence" speakers using Zone 2 output on the V867 for a 7.1 system. I also want to utilize my remote speakers using analog sound feed to other rooms in the house and on the Lanai. All remote speakers were previously fed from "B" on my old Yamaha HTR-5660 through a Niles Six-Pair Speaker Selector SS-6, outputting to remote impedance matching volume controls at 4 ohms. I see on page 30 of the OM that there are instructions for connecting an external amplifier using the pre-outs. It would seem to me that I could use the 1. Front (PRE OUT) jacks to send source to external amp, that would in turn output to the Niles SS-6 input, and output that to impedance matching volume control inputs at each remote speaker location.

I am a bit confused about the NOTE on page 30 of the V867 OM--"When a component is connected to the PRE OUT terminals, do not connect speakers to the SPEAKERS terminals corresponding to those PRE OUT terminals." That makes little sense to me, although the 2nd sentence on page 30 describes using an external amp to "enhance" the speaker output. Why can I not output to the Front Speaker L/R, as shown on page 17, and concurently PRE OUT (1) Front to simply do just what it says, i.e. PRE OUT (1) Front PRE OUT jacks? Why would the V867 care?

I would appreciate all feedback and if someone has done this, and it works, could you recommend a very basic single or double I/O, but decent, amp to serve remote speaker system? If I am misinterpreting (not unusal) the NOTE please explain. A confirmation that is doable would lead me to purchase amp and a set of duplicate Klipsch speakers to match the rest of my system.

I realize that I could test this using my old HRT-5660 as external amp configured to input V-867 PRE OUT to 5660 Front L/R PRE IN and out put Front L/R to the Niles. I resist because its a major pita to move the wall units, and my wife will be switching AS to CS (Autumn Stuff to Christmas Stuff) utilizing my I/O about two weeks from now and that would be a perfect time to move wall units, do the additional connections and hide the cabling that shows in the attached photo.

Thanks

Connect your "presence" speakers to the Zone 2/Presence speaker terminals on your V867.
Connect your external amp via patch cords to the Zone 2 Line Level out jacks on the V867.
V867 Amp assignment should be 7.1 Normal, which will enable you to use your presence speakers for that purpose and allow zone 2 audio through the external amp.
post #772 of 1176
Quote:
Originally Posted by cbhpi View Post

V867 Amp assignment should be 7.1 Normal, which will enable you to use your presence speakers for that purpose and allow zone 2 audio through the external amp.

Note that volume control on Zone 2 must be by the external amp. The V867 will not vary volume on the line level output for Zone 2. That caught me out and I had to rewire for speaker level output making my external amp (w/o volume control) redundant at the moment. Anyone think of a use for it?
post #773 of 1176
If you put it on the pre out, it will vary with zone1.
post #774 of 1176
Quote:
Originally Posted by gregoryperkins View Post

If you put it on the pre out, it will vary with zone1.

But in doing so, the OP will violate the warning in the OM to which he has referred. Whether or not the warning is there for valid (rather than "legal") reasons, I don't know. I seem to recall, but can't be certain as I write this, that rdgrimes has stated that the warning is valid and shouldn't be ignored. (My apologies to rdgrimes in advance if memory serves me incorrectly.)
post #775 of 1176
I suppose that's so that the auto calibration does not get confused.
post #776 of 1176
Quote:
Originally Posted by cbhpi View Post

Connect your "presence" speakers to the Zone 2/Presence speaker terminals on your V867.
Connect your external amp via patch cords to the Zone 2 Line Level out jacks on the V867.
V867 Amp assignment should be 7.1 Normal, which will enable you to use your presence speakers for that purpose and allow zone 2 audio through the external amp.

Almost sounds to simple, but then again I have learned a lot in this quest. Anyone have a suggestion for a suitable external amp? Opps, should have asked that in the Amplifier thread but it does create more discussion about the V867 configurations.

Thanks
post #777 of 1176
Quote:
Originally Posted by seasound View Post


Almost sounds to simple, but then again I have learned a lot in this quest. Anyone have a suggestion for a suitable external amp? Opps, should have asked that in the Amplifier thread but it does create more discussion about the V867 configurations.

Thanks

Go back in time 30 years and tell your mother to build a Hafler amp/pre. Wait until they give it to you. That is what I did.
post #778 of 1176
Quote:
Originally Posted by CKarras View Post

Note that volume control on Zone 2 must be by the external amp. The V867 will not vary volume on the line level output for Zone 2. That caught me out and I had to rewire for speaker level output making my external amp (w/o volume control) redundant at the moment. Anyone think of a use for it?

Sounds like a trick question to me LOL. Am I missing something or wouldn't the remote impedance matching volume controls take care of this situation? I would actually prefer not having the V867 control the volume on line level output for several reasons. So, I'll bite...what boat anchor external useless redundant amp do you have?
post #779 of 1176
Quote:
Originally Posted by cbhpi View Post

But in doing so, the OP will violate the warning in the OM to which he has referred. Whether or not the warning is there for valid (rather than "legal") reasons, I don't know. I seem to recall, but can't be certain as I write this, that rdgrimes has stated that the warning is valid and shouldn't be ignored. (My apologies to rdgrimes in advance if memory serves me incorrectly.)

I did a quick search and found that rdgimes has plenty to say, just haven't found the particular post you mention. I must step out now for party, but will continue to research this issue later tonight if I'm capable

Thanks for any additional input.
post #780 of 1176
So if I get this right, if I want to have the zone 1 audio from the 867 on my external stereo amp with a fixed output, I need to do the following.

Plug the amp into zone 2 out on the 867 (actually to above pre).
Set the 867 to party mode?

Then I'll get all inputs to zone2 in stereo?

With audio out, I get fixed volume, but tv (via component-optical)/hdmi does not pass. Net and radio do.

I really only care about net radio, but will rewire if the others work.

I originally used pre out, but that was variable and did not work well.
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