The Official Yamaha RX-V867 Owners Thread - Page 28

Personal experience with the zone 2 out! And other receivers that I had.

Did you calibrate with the zone kitchen speakers? That's where I suspect the problem is.

Unless there is some other setting I'm missing, I don't want to lose the presence calibration.

The missing part is pressing zone 2 on the receiver!

ok, it's working now, but only on some inputs and not in party mode. I have to select the input on the remote for zone 2. It looks like it only works on the inputs that are primarily audio. It won't switch when I press hdmi or av.

I suspect/predict that you'll get the party function to work, too.

I'm glad one of us is optimistic. Any tips on that?

I get audio on zone 2 by having the zone 2 slider over to the right on the following inputs.

audio 1/2
av 5/6
net-tuner-probably sirius

None of the other inputs do anything when I press them. If net radio is on, it does not switch away.

So far this doesn't buy me much over audio out... Especially if I have to explain to my wife that if the remote doesn't work, look for the switch at the top. Also net radio continues on zone 2 if the amp is (seemingly) off.

It should not be so difficult. It took me and a friend over an hour to figure out a normal zone 2 on a 671...

OK, I should have spent more time in the manual...

I finally found the party mode button on the remote. I was looking at it in setup. What a bizarre setup. Without party mode, you only get the above inputs plus a couple of other analog sources.

Thanks for the encouragement!

Question -
Is it possible to toggle between 2 sets of speakers with the same input? For example, my HDMI source with 2 sets of speakers connected to it - can I choose which set of speakers to turn on/off?

I don't see how you could do that without a speaker selector box.

Why would you feel the need to switch between speakers?

You could setup the zone2 feature though if you want to play sound in a different location.

The zone 2 is an option, however it looks like I will need another source. Thanks for clarifying.

Zone 2 speakers can be placed in the same room as the main speakers. The OP can then press the "party" button on the remote and get audio from all speakers in the room. By pressing mute, he could mute the main speakers and get audio from only the Zone 2 speakers. By sliding the switch to Zone 2, he could mute the Zone 2 speakers and get audio from the main speakers, all in the same room. Wild. Additionally, by changing the amp assignment to 7 ch Normal, he could use the extra speakers as presence speakers whenever he feels like it. Even wilder.

You just blew my mind. Can the audio signal for Zone 2 come from the same source as for the main speakers? Everything is connected to my PC and I want to be able to use bookshelf speakers for PC speakers, and my floorstanding speakers for the rest of my apartment. Right now the floor speakers are used for PC and it is difficult to place them so they point towards me, are not too close to me, and can have good acoustics for the rest of the room.

The audio signal for Zone 2 can come from the same source as the main Zone under the following circumstances:
(1) The main source is being fed by the AVR's tuner, net, dock, audio 1 and 2 (analog only) and v-aux (analog only) inputs. In this situation, Zone 2 must be powered up by sliding the switch on the top left of the remote and then pressing the red power button on the top right. The Zone 2 source must use the source selected for Main Zone in order to hear the same audio from each zone.;
(2) The "Party" feature is utilized by pressing the "party" button on the remote.
Hope I got this right. It's been a long day for me and I'm fading.
For this to work, you need to have all speakers connected to the AVR. I mention this because your post is a little confusing for me on that point.

Ok, that clears it up. The source cannot be HDMI on Party Mode. Thanks for your help, cdhpi, I know the post was worded poorly.

Just got the RX-V867 open box at Best Buy for 299.00. I downloaded the manual and have a Harmony remote. Anyone have the part number for the right YPAO mic for this receiver or willing to sell one? Thanks.

Where the source for the Main Zone is HDMI, pressing the "party" button on the remote will result in audio from that source in Zone 2.

I realize this is a 867 thread, but my 667 has the same functions pertaining to my problem, so maybe someone can help. And my set-up should even be simpler than others talked about here.
I just purchased yesterday a new Samsung (Smart TV) with ARC capability. I'm having the same problem as mentioned earlier here. But I don't have an DVR or any gaming system; just a very simple set-up. But the solution shown in the 667's manual for enabling ARC does not work. My set-up is this: My SAT HD STB into my 667 via HDMI & my BD Player into my 667 via HDMI. Then HDMI out from the 667 to my new display's HDMI2/ARC input. (FYI: I also have a Harmony remote in the mix). Whenever I'm watching SAT or BD movies, all is well. Whenever I swith to the display's Smart Hub (where all the apps are), the audio from my previous SAT or BD source continues, but none of the app's audio works through my 667 & external speakers. I haven't tried enabling ARC in the 667's menu because I read just a little earlier here that the poster could not get it to work on his. The manual plainly states that (1) HDMI between the AVR & Display should be all that's needed. Can anyone offer any help here?

Thanks,

Ken

Hi Ken. I'm a little confused.

"But I don't have an AVR" - The 667 is an AVR.

"I haven't tried enabling ARC in the 667's menu because I read just a little earlier here that the poster could not get it to work on his." - enable it.

ARC is another way of saying that the audio from TV content can be sent back via the TV's HDMI input to the AVR's output. When this is active, your 667 should display "TV" in the upper left corner of the display. That's your physical input. If, after turning on ARC in the AVR, there is still no audio, turn the TV to standby for a minute then back on. That's all I got. I don't use CEC or ARC.

I'm sorry...I just caught my mistake. That was a typo; I meant to say I did not have a DVR or Gaming System.

Sorry,

Ken

I responded to your post on the V667 thread, but saw it here, too. In your post on the 667 thread, you failed to mention that you use a Harmony remote, which is a pertinent fact. Many Harmony remote users report that Harmony recommends disabling CEC on the AVR which will also disable ARC. It appears that you're going to need to connect via optical from TV to AVR.

Thanks for responding. I wasn't trying to double-post; it's just that someone had sent me a PM saying this was being discussed in this thread & it might help me to look here. But even after that, I still had questions.
So, probably a stupid question, but since I do use the Harmony and if I do have to resort to optical from my AVR to Display, will I need to program/change inputs on my Harmony whenever I switch to my Samsung Smart Hub in order to get the audio via my external speakers?
What I actually was hoping/willing to do was to continue using my Harmony just as I have for SAT & BD Movies, but when I want to go to the Smart Hub, just press the Smart Hub button on the display's remote to get into the apps instead of worrying with setting up the Harmony to do that. It might be an extra step, but this would be the only time I would use the display's remote.

Ken

That's interesting. If you decide on using the TV's optical output for audio, might I suggest the following.

First, I assume the white Scene buttons for TV and BR switch to the inputs of your SAT and BD inputs already.

Next, I would use AV1 for the optical. Rename the input "TV Sound" or whatever you like. AV1 is easier to find on the remote than AV4. I guess your remote can control the TV after switching the AVR to AV1. This should get the sound from the TV to the 667 with minimum effort. My TV passes sound up to DD 5.1 out it's optical port from any TV input, but you will no longer be able to check that with the OSD. The front panel speaker indicators will still work.

Great suggestion...I will try this when I get home & post back.

Thanks,

Ken

No advice on use of a Harmony remote at this time. I don't use one and have never read a word of the pertinent OM.

Just thought I'd post my results here for anyone interested.
Rather than hooking up optical right off the bat, I did as previously suggested and went into my 667's setup menu as instructed in the manual. I turned "HDMI Control" to on, then turned "ARC" to on. I then selected AV1 as my TV Audio Input setting. This seemed to do the trick w/o having to use an optical cable at all. (It works just as the manual states with just my HDMI cable from the 667 to the HDMI/ARC input of the display). I do have to press AV1 on my display's remote, but that's simply because I haven't tried programming my Harmony to do it. But since "cbhpi" posted that Harmony's tend to have problems with ARC, I may not try using the Harmony for this anyway. So when I switch to the display's Smart Hub & press AV1 on it's remote, everything seems to be working fine now.

Ken

Well, after spending almost a week looking over thousands of spec sheets, forum threads, endless hours looking at prices, and going to sleep with information overload, I finally pulled the trigger on this one. It was the most affordable with all the features I wanted to try and future-proof it.

I got it refurbished from an Amazon marketplace seller. Dont know if I can post what I paid for it as I know these forums are real touchy about prices.

Problem for me is that I am an instant gratification kind of guy and having to wait for 7 days is going to drive me bat **** crazy.

I figured this can be the first step in upgrading the living room audio. Its 21x21x8 and my current receiver (Sony STR-DG520) only has two inputs and doesnt even process HDMI audio.

Next on the list will be front mains but thats a couple of months away at least. We have JBL 3" satellites at the moment with a 10" 150w sub. I wanna save up for some really good ones as I am tired of settling for good enough.

Thanks for all of the input concerning this topic. Looking at the number of posts it appears that I wasn't the only one baffled.

I am pleased to say that my remotes are working as expected while piped through my Niles (SS-6) 6 pair speaker selector switch. Each remote set of speakers is fed from the Niles and then to an impedance matching volume control. I first set the volume controls fully clockwise (wide open) and then tweaked the "Max Volume) on the V-867 up to just below the distortion level. I then left all of the volume controls at 50% which provides louder or quieter sound at the remote location and also allows the user to selectively turn the sound off at each location. The one button "Party Mode" is great!

Since my last post concerning this project I have ordered a Onkyo M-282 2-Channel Power Amplifier to eventually supply the remotes and will then revert the current set-up to Presence. The Onkyo is a bit expensive and has a larger footprint than I would like, but it will certainly get the job done via the line level outs. Since this unit has two outs I may just go ahead and supply a set of remotes in the garage via out 2. With my current set-up, including the Intel HD WIDI adapter, I have so many options that I'm running out of ideas on how to use it all. I am very very pleased with the Yahama V867

I've also noticed a few postings concerning programing and using the Harmony for this installation. I'm having no problem with mine, but have had it quite some time and am real familiar with setting it up.

The first of next week the Onkyo will arrive as will a pair of cooling fans with filters. I'm about maxed out in my "entertainment" cabinets and everything will be much happier with some filtered air flow. I'm going to install a new shelf, lowering the "hanging" center speaker to just above the Plasma TV. That will give me added shelf space and still allow the Plasma to vent. I'll then install the Presence speakers slightly higher and off the to left and right of the center.

Next step will be to document all of the settings on a spread sheet for future reference.

Again, thanks so much for all of the input; now that I understand it all it seems so easy. Funny how that works...

My apologies for this delayed thanks to everyone who expressed gratitude for my update instructions. My 867 has been running so well (i.e no problems) I don't visit the forum as often as I used to... Ironically... I came back to the forum today to find my RX-V867 Firmware Update Instructions

I've been ignoring the "FW update available" message, waiting for any bugs to be worked out (in the event it was released prematurely). Anyway... I went to the onscreen menu... saw the message "FW update available... and spent 5 minutes looking for Advanced setup menu. DOH!

Then again... the firmware updates are released so few and far between... how can I be expected to remember my own instructions. Anyway... just did the update... no problem. All is well!

Having a bit of trouble getting the 867 to play nice with my TV and my CPU monitor.

Here's my wiring setup:
HTPC->AVR HDMI Input 1
AVR HDMI Output 1->TV HDMI Input 2 (ARC)
AVR HDMI Output 2->Monitor Input

TV: Samsung UN46D6900
Monitor: ASUS VE228H

I have the monitor fed from the AVR so that I can have sound on both the main system and the CPU speakers without having to change the audio output in Windows.

I have tried a variety of setting combinations on both the TV (Anynet On/Off) and AVR (HDMI Control On/Off; ARC On/Off; Control Select Out1/Out2). I always end up with the same functionality:

AVR on HDMI Input 1
-with TV and Monitor on = both TV and Monitor get the feed from HTPC

-when I turn the TV off the Monitor shows "HDMI No Signal" momentarily and then shows the AVR background wallpaper while TV continues to show feed from HTPC

-turn the TV back on and both get the HTPC feed again

-turning the Monitor off and on has no effect on the TV

Switching AVR HDMI Outputs on the back of the unit has no effect.

Switching the HDMI cable input to HDMI 1 has no effect.

With Standby Through on, and the AVR off, TV and monitor on, both TV and monitor get the feed from the HTPC. Turn off the TV and the monitor gets no signal at all and goes into standby mode.

Very frustrating and I feel like the setup actually worked for a short while before acting like this (but can't be certain).

Any advice on how to set this up so that my monitor feed isn't determined by the TV being on or off? Thanks.

Does anyone know if the setup parameters obtained from auto speaker calibration are maintained for "Straight" processing mode, specifically: parametric EQ, delay, and speaker levels?

What about for Pure Direct?

I want to keep the EQ/delay/level matching that I get with the speaker setup but toss out the junk sound mods like "Hall in Munich" or "Drama" or whatnot.

Second question: does YPAO actually level-match all speakers to THX reference SPL, e.g. 85 dB @ -20 dB setting?

I think selecting "Straight" will remove any DSP effects without changing speaker physical parameters. Turn Enhance off also.

Pure Direct should remove all programming, but I could be wrong about that.

OSD works with Straight. It does not work with Pure Direct. Hope this helps.

"Straight" simply means: no additional decoders or DSP applied. IOW, it is what it is and the correct decoder applied. It has no bearing on EQ or setup.

"Direct" mode bypasses all the EQ and distance and bass management settings (YPAO stuff) and also any additional decoders or DSP you may have turned on.