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HD65 3D Upgrade Thread

post #1 of 62
Thread Starter 
I know that there is a thread about the new firmware and getting it installed. This thread is for what happens after that.

For those that don't know, here is the link to the firmware:

"http://www.optomaeurope.com/projectordetailshccs.aspx?ShowMenu=HE&PTypedb=Home%20Entertainment&PC=HD65%203D%20Upgrade" (remove quotes)

My question is this. After you upgrade, what is the process for getting 3D set up? My home theater set up consists of the HD65 (obviously), a PS3, an HDTV tuner, and a Sony 5.1 surround system.

I am assuming that all I need is the 3DXL, and some glasses, but first of all I don't know if you need Optoma branded glasses, or some extra equipment to sync the glasses, or even if the European firmware works on US HD65's. If anyone could enlighten me on all of this I would greatly appreciate it.

Note: I do not want to run my system through a HTPC so the Nvidia graphics card option is out.
post #2 of 62
I really find it amazing that at one time we had all these hd65 owners posting things about their projectors and now nonone will chime in here and answer. Do you owners of this projector not want 3d? Some of us are really struggling making this work and if someone has made it work especially with a pc please post something. thanks
post #3 of 62
From what i have read, you will need the 3dxl for things like blu ray players and ps3's and STB boxes.

I myself just did the upgrade last night and there are tons of bugs in the new firmware but it does indeed work, and i will be doing it through the pc using an ati 5450.
post #4 of 62
I tried and failed with both ATI and Nvidia video cards. I'm not a noob at computers either.

Tried hacking Acer inf's, custom EDID overrides, the russian emitter spoof, whole nine yards.
post #5 of 62
I have this up and running using the 3D-XL and the ZD101 DLP link glasses. I have a Xbox and PS3 running into a 4x2 HDMI switch and the 3D-XL between the switch and the projector. All works well other than the buggy firmware. Still playing with the settings to get a image I like. The only other problem I'm having right now is no video with Netflix on the Xbox tot he projector. I think it's the 3D-XL not passing the HDCP properly. It works fine on the TV(connected to the other out on the switch) or if I remove the 3D-XL from the chain to the projector.

Otherwise 3D looks and works great.

Does anyone know if there is a way to change the 3D sync on the projector without going into the menu everytime I need to switch it?
post #6 of 62
I really think paradoxial is correct when he says he's no newbie and he can't make it work either. What I have kinda found trying to make it work on an htpc is you can spoof it with the acer inf and the nvidia stereoscopic setup will detect it as a usable device but when you get to the next part of the wizard when it wants to put a 3d image on the screen and you select what you see out of each eye the resolution switches back to 720p 60hz and you get a message saying the mode for the stereoscopic player is wrong. That's where I'm stumped. I would think it will work with a 3dxl. But you should not have to or can not use one with a pc. If someone could also explain the 2 different settings in the 3d menus of the projector for dlp link and emitter. We can do this guys lol!
post #7 of 62
Quote:
Originally Posted by biggr4100 View Post

I really think paradoxial is correct when he says he's no newbie and he can't make it work either. What I have kinda found trying to make it work on an htpc is you can spoof it with the acer inf and the nvidia stereoscopic setup will detect it as a usable device but when you get to the next part of the wizard when it wants to put a 3d image on the screen and you select what you see out of each eye the resolution switches back to 720p 60hz and you get a message saying the mode for the stereoscopic player is wrong. That's where I'm stumped. I would think it will work with a 3dxl. But you should not have to or can not use one with a pc. If someone could also explain the 2 different settings in the 3d menus of the projector for dlp link and emitter. We can do this guys lol!

Exactly. I got it working ONCE and I have no idea how, but upon reboot it simply won't come out of 720p 60hz when 3d is made. I can get 120hz on the desktop and when in windowed mode (full 3d effect works in window mode) but the instant I go fullscreen it switches back to 60hz non 3d.

Also, the Acer inf sucks because it kills hdmi sound output. Splicing the EDID of my reciever with the Acer inf didn't work either.

In short, until Optoma and Nvidia get off their asses and officially add the HD65 to the supported display list, we're completely screwed.
post #8 of 62
dang if you could just tell me how to make it work in a window i would be at least a little more happy..
post #9 of 62
Well after today i have new hope for the working of 3d with the hd65. I had benq710 that we played with at work today and after pretty much going through the same scenerio as with the hd65 we were able to get it to work . Stereoscopic player worked for some demo files I was able to download from the net.Blu ray movies still would not work. Until! I rolled back the Nvidia drivers to 267.24. Powerdvd11 now plays everything in 3D. Also I used the acer5360 inf so Nvidia vision would work with the stereoscopic drivers. I have the emiiter glasses from Nvidia. Will report back on the hd65 this evening.
post #10 of 62
I tried quite a few ways to get 3d working last night but the problem im having is the ati recognizes the hd65 as having a maximum refresh rate of 88hz and doesn't see it as a 3d device, the hack inf might help but than you loose hd sound. I tried the iz drivers and such still nothing.
post #11 of 62
Hi guys, I am having a problem that is pretty minor. The Drivers from my PJ would not install into my laptop when connecting the two together. My laptop says there are no drivers available. I have never updated the firmware on the PJ. This is the first time I have attempted to even hook a usb to my PJ. Does anyone have any tips on how I should proceed. I do not want to brick my PJ with some new firmware if the drivers are not installed into my laptop. Any help is greatly appreciated.
post #12 of 62
i had exactly the same problem, the work-around was to install the driver after you connect the usb, contrary to the instructions
post #13 of 62
Quote:
Originally Posted by maverik1979 View Post

i had exactly the same problem, the work-around was to install the driver after you connect the usb, contrary to the instructions

That is what I tried to do? That is how the instructions tell you to do it. I held the menu button and connected power to the pj and waited for the two LED's to light up. Then I connected the usb to my pj and laptop and no dice "driver not installed". When I look up the device in my Device & Hardware Section on my laptop, I get the message, there is no driver for this device, so I am not sure what you mean. Sorry if I a, as dumb as a stump. These things never work for me, and are usually why I don't bother with them.
post #14 of 62
Quote:
Originally Posted by zaytser View Post

That is what I tried to do? That is how the instructions tell you to do it. I held the menu button and connected power to the pj and waited for the two LED's to light up. Then I connected the usb to my pj and laptop and no dice "driver not installed". When I look up the device in my Device & Hardware Section on my laptop, I get the message, there is no driver for this device, so I am not sure what you mean. Sorry if I a, as dumb as a stump. These things never work for me, and are usually why I don't bother with them.

Don't try and install the driver via the Windows installer. After getting the two lights and connecting the PJ to your computer via usb, then install the driver that came with the flasher. Then run the flasher.exe program. The first time I tried to install the driver I did it without the projector attached first, and it didn't work.
post #15 of 62
Quote:
Originally Posted by batutta View Post


Don't try and install the driver via the Windows installer. After getting the two lights and connecting the PJ to your computer via usb, then install the driver that came with the flasher. Then run the flasher.exe program. The first time I tried to install the driver I did it without the projector attached first, and it didn't work.

Oh I see. I did not know that a driver came with the flasher program. I didn't want to even click on the flasher program while my pj wa connected for fear of bricking it. All I seen was the flasher program link in my Windows start menu and haven't opened it yet. I will look for the folder and see if it is hidden in there. Thanks for clarifying this for me, much appreciated.
post #16 of 62
Quote:
Originally Posted by zaytser View Post

Oh I see. I did not know that a driver came with the flasher program. I didn't want to even click on the flasher program while my pj wa connected for fear of bricking it. All I seen was the flasher program link in my Windows start menu and haven't opened it yet. I will look for the folder and see if it is hidden in there. Thanks for clarifying this for me, much appreciated.

These are the directions from the website;

Open HD65 3D Upgrade.zip from your chosen download folder and copy the 3D Upgrade folder to your desktop.
Open the 3D Upgrade folder and select 32-bit or 64-bit (see link above regarding Windows versions)
Double click Setup.exe If windows asks if you want to allow the program to make changes to your computer, click Yes
Click Next, Next and Next - the default values are suitable for most setups.
Click Close to exit the software installation.

**PLUG IN PROJECTOR VIA USB BEFORE NEXT STEP. THE DRIVER WOULDN'T INSTALL WHEN I TRIED WITHOUT IT PLUGGED IN.

Before running the upgrade program, you must install the USB driver.
Click on Start, (All programs) Flasher 1.1 and select install_driver.exe. If windows asks if you want to allow the program to make changes to your computer, click Yes
A DOS box will appear while the driver installs - it will close automatically.
If a dialogue box appears saying that the driver is not signed by Microsoft, click Continue
(To uninstall the upgrade software run setup.exe again and select Remove)
post #17 of 62
Quote:
Originally Posted by batutta

These are the directions from the website;

Open HD65 3D Upgrade.zip from your chosen download folder and copy the 3D Upgrade folder to your desktop.
Open the 3D Upgrade folder and select 32-bit or 64-bit (see link above regarding Windows versions)
Double click Setup.exe If windows asks if you want to allow the program to make changes to your computer, click Yes
Click Next, Next and Next - the default values are suitable for most setups.
Click Close to exit the software installation.

**PLUG IN PROJECTOR VIA USB BEFORE NEXT STEP. THE DRIVER WOULDN'T INSTALL WHEN I TRIED WITHOUT IT PLUGGED IN.
th
Before running the upgrade program, you must install the USB driver.
Click on Start, (All programs) Flasher 1.1 and select install_driver.exe. If windows asks if you want to allow the program to make changes to your computer, click Yes
A DOS box will appear while the driver installs - it will close automatically.
If a dialogue box appears saying that the driver is not signed by Microsoft, click Continue
(To uninstall the upgrade software run setup.exe again and select Remove)
Very good. I will follow those instruction to the T. I just wanted to be careful before diving in. Hopefully my HD65 will be up to the task of 3D. Thanks a million.
post #18 of 62
Quote:
Originally Posted by batutta View Post
These are the directions from the website;

Open HD65 3D Upgrade.zip from your chosen download folder and copy the 3D Upgrade folder to your desktop.
Open the 3D Upgrade folder and select 32-bit or 64-bit (see link above regarding Windows versions)
Double click Setup.exe If windows asks if you want to allow the program to make changes to your computer, click Yes
Click Next, Next and Next - the default values are suitable for most setups.
Click Close to exit the software installation.

**PLUG IN PROJECTOR VIA USB BEFORE NEXT STEP. THE DRIVER WOULDN'T INSTALL WHEN I TRIED WITHOUT IT PLUGGED IN.

Before running the upgrade program, you must install the USB driver.
Click on Start, (All programs) Flasher 1.1 and select install_driver.exe. If windows asks if you want to allow the program to make changes to your computer, click Yes
A DOS box will appear while the driver installs - it will close automatically.
If a dialogue box appears saying that the driver is not signed by Microsoft, click Continue
(To uninstall the upgrade software run setup.exe again and select Remove)

this is what worked for me aswell
post #19 of 62
Just wanted to warn everyone that this firmware update seriously screws with your picture settings. I just did a HCFR greyscale and color calibration with my Xrite Eye-One and this is what I found:

Truvivid settings: "0" is maximum, "1" is off, "2" is 3, and "3" is 2. This is absolutely critical because it introduces a HUGE blue hump from 20-80 that is a good 50% higher than any other color. It also turns your gamma into a vertical line down on the chart.

Gamma setting is stuck on "film" thanks to the firmware update.


These are the settings neccessary to get my greyscale basically flat:

Truvivid: 1
Brilliantcolor: Off
Brightness: 0
Contrast: 0
Sharpness: 0

Red gain: -3
Green Gain: 0
Blue Gain: 12
Red Bias: -1
Green Bias: 0
Blue Bias 5

I cannot stress what an absolutely massive difference these settings make. I feel like I got a new projector.
post #20 of 62
Quote:
Originally Posted by paradoxical3
Just wanted to warn everyone that this firmware update seriously screws with your picture settings. I just did a HCFR greyscale and color calibration with my Xrite Eye-One and this is what I found:

Truvivid settings: "0" is maximum, "1" is off, "2" is 3, and "3" is 2. This is absolutely critical because it introduces a HUGE blue hump from 20-80 that is a good 50% higher than any other color. It also turns your gamma into a vertical line down on the chart.

Gamma setting is stuck on "film" thanks to the firmware update.

These are the settings neccessary to get my greyscale basically flat:

Truvivid: 1
Brilliantcolor: Off
Brightness: 0
Contrast: 0
Sharpness: 0

Red gain: -3
Green Gain: 0
Blue Gain: 12
Red Bias: -1
Green Bias: 0
Blue Bias 5

I cannot stress what an absolutely massive difference these settings make. I feel like I got a new projector.
Well that makes me wonder if I shoud even bother as I use a light grey screen. Sheesh, there always seems to be a catch with this stuff.
post #21 of 62
Quote:
Originally Posted by paradoxical3 View Post

Just wanted to warn everyone that this firmware update seriously screws with your picture settings. I just did a HCFR greyscale and color calibration with my Xrite Eye-One and this is what I found:

Truvivid settings: "0" is maximum, "1" is off, "2" is 3, and "3" is 2. This is absolutely critical because it introduces a HUGE blue hump from 20-80 that is a good 50% higher than any other color. It also turns your gamma into a vertical line down on the chart.

Gamma setting is stuck on "film" thanks to the firmware update.

I came to the same conclusion about the Truevivid. Had to redo all my color balance to get my picture back to where it was. The settings are different from yours as everyone's viewing situation is different. I'm actually not sure it is film gamma though even though that's what the projector says. Looks more like what the PC setting was.
post #22 of 62
Quote:
Originally Posted by batutta View Post

I came to the same conclusion about the Truevivid. Had to redo all my color balance to get my picture back to where it was. The settings are different from yours as everyone's viewing situation is different. I'm actually not sure it is film gamma though even though that's what the projector says. Looks more like what the PC setting was.

Even with the calibration my gamma still sucks.

Does your color temp setting actually change everything? Mine doesn't seem to.

HEre's my gamma and color temp graphs after calibration. Still pretty bad but a hell of a lot better than before. There's definitely some stuck setting that's screwing me up.



post #23 of 62
Quote:
Originally Posted by paradoxical3 View Post

Even with the calibration my gamma still sucks.

Does your color temp setting actually change everything? Mine doesn't seem to.

The color temperature setting works for me still. I usually put it on cool and adjust the rest from there. I put a customer service request in to Optoma Europe but haven't heard. Tried Optoma USA but they said the firmware isn't theirs and not their problem. Optoma USA gave be a copy of the old firmware so I could go back, but the flasher wouldn't recognize it as belonging to that projector and wouldn't let me install.
post #24 of 62
Updated my hd65, absolutely thrilled. Using Russian Nvidia 3d Vision emulator with wired edimensional glasses i bought a year ago for £25 off ebay. Synced up with e-d activator and now watching 3d blurays with powerdvd 11, Gaming with 275.50 3d vision drivers on my gtx 480. Awesome. 120hz no ghosting, with not spending a penny over what i already had.
post #25 of 62
Can those glasses still be bought. I am look for a solution also playing 3d from pc. If not what others work with the Russian emitter?
post #26 of 62
Quick look on google shopping shows there like £100 and up, like i said got mine from ebay. Got a pair of optoma zd201 glasses on the way, £60 from Amazon, should be delivered this week. Ive heard they work if Nvidia 3d vision emmiter is plugged in, wich is what the Russian emulator simulates. ill update when they get here but im certain they will work. Bin watching Avatar, Tron and Resident evil, Edimensional work great for what they are but are so dated (and wired). also bin playing Battlefield BC2, Resi 5, Just case 2 and loads more. Lucky i just bought a ASUS GTX 480 from scan for £196. Runs at 70 c and is so fast its unreal (touch loud but surround drowns it out).
post #27 of 62
Well I would love to make it work again but still having real issues getting nvidia to recognize the monitor as 3d ready. I have spoofed it to the acer and still no go.It has worked at one time and I think others were having it stop working also after a restart. I made the Russian Emitter work I think . I tried all kinds of earlier drivers to no avail..I ordered the dlp link glasses and they should be here tommorrow or Thursday. I sure would appreciate any help anyone could give me to try. I am going to take another hard drive and reload windows7 32 bit and start from scratch again.. But it did work once before with what i had.
post #28 of 62
Only help i could give is to run DSFx64Runtime or DSFx86Runtime, depending on OS obviously. It says run DSF-KitSetup in instructions but that didnt work for me. Then run init or init_x64, You might have to run it other way round, cant remember. Then run enable stereo batch file. When you want to shut down the emulator make sure you maximise the emu window and press enter to close it. When i enable mine i have to turn 3d vision off then on in nvidia control panel, and select h5360 as output. also make sure your in 3d mode on the projector menu after you sart a game. what glasses you using?
post #29 of 62
do you have to run init 64 everytime? If i do not run the stereobat file then I know that the emitter is not working because the nvidia software will not let me go any further when running the wizard. But when I run that file the emitter seems to show up. My problem is it shows digital display above in the setup when your looking at screen resolutions. And when you go into stereoscopic setup it just shows 3d vision something. Does not show the 5360spoof. Windows shows the monitor as 5360 though . Resolution is running at 1280x720 x120hz. There is nowhere to select the correct display. I have uninstalled and re-install the drivers several times using newer ones and older ones. I have a gtx430 card. I bought those heaven3d dlp link glasses and they should be here thursday or so. But I would assume you have to make it find the monitor correctly before the glasses would ever work.
post #30 of 62
No just once. if you did it right then a dos window should open and stay open. keep this running minimised. run the 3d vision wizard as 3d discover, guessing the shapes or using red and blue glasses. once its done change it to generic crt display or h5360 in Nvidia control panel. if still not working you might need actual glasses conected for it to work.
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