Onkyo TX NR709 Owners' Thread - Page 52

I have the latest firmware and I don't have this issue. The only 1080/24 material I have is from my Oppo BDP-83 and it's fine. I pretty much use my HTPC for music and tvshows.

Thanks for the response.
I'll check 1080/24 from another source and see if I get the same issue I get with my htpc. I suppose I can use my Intel graphics over my nvidia to debug.

Edit: just tried 1080/24 from my PS3 and it works perfectly. I guess I'll dig into my nvidia drivers and see if I can fix it.

Well, If anyones interested I fixed my issue. I found a couple settings in my nvidia driver gui that fixed it. In the "adjust desktop color settings" tab near the bottom there are two pull downs. One is "digital color format" which I changed from RGB to YCbCr44. The other pull down is "content type reported to the display" which I changed from auto to full-screen videos. I do not believe that changing the digital color format made the difference. I am confident that content type reported to the display is what did it.

Did a quick scan through this thread, but didnt really see anyone talk about Pandora.

How well does it work and what does the display look like on your TV when using it?

I ask because I was using my blu-ray player for Pandora, but its going south and both my new TV and blu-ray player dont have it built in.

Works like a champ, I use it all the time to keep 60s-70s-80s music playing in the background while I work at my desk or elsewhere. TV displays song name, simple art, and like/don't like buttons, etc. but I usually turn the TV off.

Any chance you could post a pic of what the display looks like on the tv?

Better yet....here's a video of the interface while I navigate and select a few options

http://dl.dropbox.com/u/3293653/Pand...03-Desktop.m4v

the only issue I have is that the like don't like button does not work...error comes back sand says it is not supported...otherwise it works great

That video was AWESOME! Thanks very much for that. Makes me feel more comfortable in another purchase I was looking it as, Pandora was one thing missing from the used Pioneer Elite Bluray BDP-05FD I was looking at. That player is quite nice, but gives up Pandora (which my current blu-ray player has but its crapping out).

Wanna see the streaming Pandora playing on my Samsung fridge? yes, really!

It's funny because I have a Tivo and mostly use the Tivo streaming music from my home music collection. On my Onkyo, I have Pandora on my samsung TV, Tivo HD, BluRay, PS3, Onkyo and not sure about my Wii but I know my Samsung fridge does, but it's not connected to the Onkyo :-(http://www.samsung.com/us/appliances...RF4289HARS/XAA


Perhaps I should use Pandora more often......

Hello all,

I have done a search on an issue I am having with my new 709, but cannot find an answer. I had it hooked up to front speakers only(Paradigm Titan Monitors) and it worked and sounded great. I just hooked up a new Bic F12 sub and the sub sounds great. The issue I am having now is that the front speakers sometimes get loud for a brief second and then back to normal. I am wondering if its a crossover issue from the sub? I cannot seem to figure it out. It does only seem to happen with music, either from my ipod or from spotify or pandora. Any thoughts?

Thanks
cragod

Well that's a new one.

Did you run Audyssey before the sub? If yes, did you re-run it after? What's the crossover set at 80Hz? If not, then set it there.

Do you have the latest firmware installed? Make sure you use USB only to do the update. Don't update over the net.

I have not run Audyssey yet. I was waiting for my Paradigm CC370 from ebay which arrives today. I will run it over the weekend. I did update the firmware, but did it over the net. The problem was there before the update.

^^
First try doing a "soft" reset by unplugging the AVR for 10 minutes, and if the issue remains, try resetting the micoprocessor per the instructions listed in the Owner's manual. Also check the volume on your iPod as well.

Will give it a try. I don't think its an Ipod issue since it happens in NET mode also. If resets don't work I will unplug the Sub and see if it goes away.

After reading every written word relating to RIHD/Viera Link/CEC/HDMI Control/connection problems, I have finally solved my RIHD/Viera Link problem!

The standard remedies are:
Turn it off and on again.
Turn it off for 15 minutes and on again.
Switch RIHD and Viera Link on and off.
Reset TV and/or AVR to factory settings. (and lose Audyssey settings
All possible combinations of the above.

None of this sorted out my HD control. It had worked before, so I decided to go right back to the beginning and unplug EVERYTHING, all HD cables, ethernet, all but the speaker cables (so not quite everything).
Before powering off I turned Viera Link on the TV and RIHD on the AVR OFF, and then powered off both devices for about 20 minutes.
Then turned on the link stuff and plugged things in one at a time (it worked with just the TV!) and as some of you might expect, the SKY+ HD box was the culprit! I know the Sky CEC problems are quite well known due to their non standard use of pin 13. Some of you might also be saying why didn't I just start with that, but I had! I had tried unplugging the Sky cable and resetting but it still didn't work.
Some people also said back in 2010 that this issue had been solved.
Once finding out that it was in fact Sky, I did some more tests. The Onkyo justs needs a sniff of the Sky HD cable and its HDMI control is stuffed. No matter what I did the link was unavailable until unplugging everything again, turning off for a while, and starting from scratch. There was no coming back from a 'broken' link due to Sky.
I had also in the past tried the Sky HD straight to the TV, but due to the cable being in the vicinity of the Onkyo prior to trying this, the connection was already out for the count so whatever I tried wasn't going to work.

So now I have the Onkyo plugged into the ARC port (HDMI 2) and Sky in HDMI 1 and power and volume are working as expected with RIHD/Viera Link!

The only downside I can think of with this setup is Sky HD now bypasses the Onkyo meaning no upscaling from 1080i to 1080p. Another small downside is having to change the TV input source to access the Onkyo on screen menu, but this is hardly an issue.

A better solution (I think), which some have done, is to remove pin 13 from the HDMI cable for the Sky box. I didn't do this, but now that I'm fairly sure I know the issue I might do that. It would mean everything going into the Onkyo and one cable to the TV, thus fully maximising the audio and video processing potential of this awesome AVR!

Something to point out; even though the Sky box is connected to the Onkyo with an Optical cable to get 5.1, when ARC kicks in and the receiver switches to TV/CD the default audio is the ARC source (i.e. 2 channel for Sky), which also needs updating to Optical. I guess this makes sense, but due to my original setup with Sky -> Onkyo, I had set the SAT audio source to Optical so didn't think of needing to also update the ARC source at first.

Apple TV goes into the Onkyo and doesn't effect the HDMI control at all. (as expected from Apple...)

After solving the Viera Link problem I needed to redo Audyssey, and after reading the very informative and useful link in jdsmoothie's signature on Audyssey setup, I used all 8 measurement points this time (instead of 3 like at first) and my setup has really come to life! Have never heard it sound this good! Another useful tip in that post is not to decrease the Audyssey crossover frequencies (increasing is ok). Yes this is probably obvious to some of you, but a lot of stuff you read also says go with the THX recommended 80Hz. I am now leaving my KEF's on the 120Hz suggested by Audyssey.

A final point: this is untested, as I didn't want to have to redo the whole unplug/reset/wait/plug in thing again, but there is a small chance an HDMI -> mini display port cable (like this) also messes with CEC control, even when NOT plugged in to anything! I had a cable plugged in but not connected to my Macbook but it still might have also been involved in my troubles. Whatever goes on in the little box thing connected to the HDMI side might be tying pin 13 to another pin or something, I don't know.

I hope this is of some use to someone out there! Thanks to all who offered suggestions.
Cheers

Just wanted to chime in as I am a new Onkyo 709 owner, actually had it for over a month now. This is not my first Onkyo product I had, as I was a proud owner of the flagship 906 back in 2007 and fell in love with that receiver and also knew I would stick with Onkyo as my primary receiver. I was trying to hold out for the 5010 receiver but needed a receiver to fill in till the 5010 comes out. I must say this thing rivals my 906. Besides not have the massive transformers, isf video calibrations, some zone addition, and less rated watts. I am very impressed with the 709.

I haven't ran Audyssey yet, as my new front speakers just came in the other day, but I have to wait till I get back home in a week to hook them up and move the original fronts too the surround position for a 5.2 setup. Eventually I would like to do 7.2, but I haven't decide what rear surrounds I want to use.

Has anyone have experience with the Onkyo DV-SP506 player? I am looking for a affordable SACD player as I am looking into getting into this niche and think this would be a nice combo with the 709 as I am looking to do DSD over HDMI. Or if anyone is using a different SACD player and would like to point at something to look that would be appreciated as well. While on the subject is anyone using the 709 with SACD and how is it sounding?

Well once I get back home and setup my new toys I will have to post pics of the setup and give my findings on Audyssey and see how it goes as this is my first dual sub setup as well.

Hey guys,

I recently connected 2 pair of monoprice PID:4929 in-ceiling speakers to my 709 as surrounds and rear surrounds. When I run the Audyssy setup(all 8 positions) it wants to set the crossover for these speakers at 120hz. Should I keep them at this setting or lower the crossover point? It just seems to be a little on the high side to me. Any suggestions?

Thanks,

Matt

You don't want to the lower them from what Audyssey set them to because Audyssey stops correcting the freq response below that point. You can increase crossovers from what audyssey recommends but not lower.

Exactly what prime PTG said. Never lower the x-over after running Audyssey, and using its Movie or Music mode. 120hz looks perfectly acceptable to me. What sub do you have, and what is its top end frequency limit?

Current sub is Klipsch RW-12. It's crossover goes up to 120hz. So I should definitely leave it where Audyssey sets it?

Matt

The RW-12's -3db is 120hz, so yea, if I were you I would leave the surround x-over @ 120hz.

Ok, what about my center and mains, Audyssey crosses them over at 60hz(mains) and 50hz(center). Would you recommend I leave then where they are or raise them to 80hz(thx)?

Matt

I would raise the L/C/R to 80hz, for all of the good reasons that have been mentioned on this forum, like taking load off the 709 & L/C/R for one. Remember, it is OK to raise the x-over after you have calibrated with Audyssey, but lowering it results in Audyssey not applying any room/speaker correction to the selected speakers below the x-over set by Audyssey.

So if I changed it from 120hz to 90hz and then back to 120hz, do I need to rerun audyssey? Or will it retain the settings?

No, you can change x-overs, distances and trim levels, and you don't need to rerun Audyssey. Only if you move or get new speakers, or make a huge room change will you have to recalibrate.

I appreciate the help, thank you.

Matt

No problem Matt!

Has anyone else had the Net input stop working? It worked fine for the first 3 weeks or so. Now when I select the Net input, all I get is a blue screen on my TV, and nothing shows on the receiver's display. Any ideas?

Thanks

Yes, and the problem was solved after a "soft" reset... unplugging the power from the wall for a couple of minutes. Go figure!