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Onkyo TX NR709 Owners' Thread - Page 60

post #1771 of 2352
Quote:
Originally Posted by Semp1 View Post

Honestly. You really should keep the video processor on skip. It affects the video signal in a negative way. Unless you need something truly upscaled there really is no reason to keep it on and even then I could bet most TV scalers are still better. It truly is terrible in every sense of the word. Whether or not you realize the Onkyo's affect video that should be left alone. Run some tests running 3:2 pull down and 24fps with it off and on. I bet you see a difference. And not the "Direct" setting. Completely Skip it. Use a calibration disc if you have one. Preferably Spears & Munsil. Also pay close attention to scenes that pan from point A...............to.................point B. You'll see frame skips. Most people don't notice this at first but once you do you never can stop noticing it.

I found that with the video processor on with my onkyo rc270. I was losing some picture. it was overscanning. I turned off the video processor.

Jacob
post #1772 of 2352
Quote:
Originally Posted by kiza40 View Post

There seems to be new facilities which did not exist before (at least I was not aware):
Press and hold:
* BD/DVD and press Power - Some sort of HDMI menu
* CBL/SAT " " " - Deep Colour ON/OFF
* NET " " " - Forced firmware upgrade (Net)
* USB " " " - Forced firmware upgrade (USB).

Already functional with previous firmware (but didn't know about, thank you).
post #1773 of 2352
BTW, anybody got luck playing multichannel FLAC from DLNA ?

24bit/192KHz stereo works fine though...
post #1774 of 2352
How do you turn the video processor off?

I use resolution through and picture direct.

Is there a better setting?
post #1775 of 2352
Quote:
Originally Posted by LanceX View Post

How do you turn the video processor off?
I use resolution through and picture direct.
Is there a better setting?


1) On the unit itself, press VCR/DVR and the Return buttons at the same time and hold both buttons
2) "Video processing USE" should show on the front display
3) While still holding down the VCR/DVR button, release the Return button, then press again and that will cycle between "Video processing USE/Skip"
4) Use = ON / Skip = OFF

Don't expect to see any deference between Skip and having your settings to Direct and Through. I guess there can be an argument made for lower heat and lower power consumption with the processor set to Skip.
post #1776 of 2352
thanks, ya i was thinking MAYBE less heat ETC

BTW, BD/DVD and setup or left of setup it says Video ATT: Off , any idea what this is?
post #1777 of 2352
Quote:
Originally Posted by LanceX View Post

thanks, ya i was thinking MAYBE less heat ETC
BTW, BD/DVD and setup or left of setup it says Video ATT: Off , any idea what this is?


Page 78 of the manual:

■ The following settings can be made for the
S-Video and composite video inputs
You must use the buttons on the unit to make these
settings.
On the AV receiver, press the input selector for the
input source that you want to set and the SETUP button
simultaneously. While holding down the input selector
button, press SETUP until “Video ATT:ON” appears
on the display. Then, release both buttons. To reactivate
the setting, repeat the above process so that “Video
ATT:OFF” appears on the display, and release the
buttons.
• Video Attenuation
This setting can be made for the BD/DVD, VCR/DVR,
CBL/SAT or GAME input.
If you have a game console connected to the composite
video input, and the picture isn’t very clear, you can
attenuate the gain.
Video ATT:OFF: (default).
Video ATT:ON: Gain is reduced by 2 dB.
post #1778 of 2352
I've read that the newer series units from Onkyo (616) suffer a slight problem with the dual outputs.
If one of the outputs does not support 3D, then the unit will not send 3d out of the other output.

Does the 709 suffer from this problem?

I'm considering the unit, I need to replace my 707 which is not 3D capable. My Samsung TV is not capable of 3D and I'm looking to install a projector in the same room. The projector is 3D capable. I'd like to be able to plug both display devices in and not face this problem.
post #1779 of 2352
^^
This would be true with any HDMI switch/splitter, regardless of whether part of the AVR or a separate switch/splitter .... if 1 display is 3D and the other is only 2D, only 2D will pass to both displays. The same applies to audio ... if one HDMI sink can process DD 5.1 and the other only stereo 2.0, then both outputs will only pass stereo 2.0.
post #1780 of 2352
Quote:
Originally Posted by jdsmoothie View Post

^^
This would be true with any HDMI switch/splitter, regardless of whether part of the AVR or a separate switch/splitter .... if 1 display is 3D and the other is only 2D, only 2D will pass to both displays. The same applies to audio ... if one HDMI sink can process DD 5.1 and the other only stereo 2.0, then both outputs will only pass stereo 2.0.

eek.gif
So no matter what AVR I decide to replace my 707 with, I will have that problem due to the TV not being 3D capable?

If that's the case, how would one go about getting around this issue?
post #1781 of 2352
If using one of the 8XX series or lower level models, either buy a 2nd 3D TV or unplug the HDMI cable from the 2D TV when showing video on the 3D TV. The new upper level models (1010, 3010, 5010) now include a Zone 2 HDMI jack which is separate from the main zone.
post #1782 of 2352
Ouch. That's getting a bit pricey for my budget. So maybe using a matrix switch with the AVR could workout as a possible solution? I'd only need 1 out on the AVR to the switch and be able select which display device I wanted to use.
post #1783 of 2352
No ... as I previously indicated, using a single external switch would still limit you to only 2D. Unless there is something wrong with the 707, you might want to simply consider buying a dual HDMI 1.4 BDP which can pass the 3D video to the PJ and audio to the 707 (that is if the PJ is only going to be used with the BDP).
post #1784 of 2352
I have the PS3, Xbox 360, and an HTPC that could all (potentially) do 3D.

I was under the impression that a matrix switch as opposed to a normal switch would work. Guess I was wrong. This is turning out to be quite the issue.

It seems as though removing the TV HDMI cable from the back of the AVR when I want to view 3D is going to be the most cost effective solution. I'll have to look around at other dual zone HDMI units to see if there's anything a little less costly out there. I get the feeling that only higher end AVRs have that option.
post #1785 of 2352
The new Denon 3313CI and Marantz SR7007 also feature a Zone 2 HDMI.
post #1786 of 2352
Quote:
Originally Posted by neveser View Post

eek.gif
So no matter what AVR I decide to replace my 707 with, I will have that problem due to the TV not being 3D capable?
If that's the case, how would one go about getting around this issue?

The Gefen HDMI Detective might fix this. You'd need to get it programmed using a 3D capable TV as close to the specs of your Samsung. Once programmed and placed between the receiver and TV it should trick it into seeing your 2D as 3D capable.
post #1787 of 2352
Quote:
Originally Posted by jdsmoothie View Post

The new Denon 3313CI and Marantz SR7007 also feature a Zone 2 HDMI.
Both of those are beautiful AVRs (especially the Marantz) and both are out of my price range frown.gif
Right now I've been looking at Pioneer VSX-33 for $430 (used), or a TX-NR709 for $500 (used from a certified reseller). I've been leaning towards the Onkyo because my 707 has been great and I prefer the Audyssey over the MCACC from Pioneer. The Audyssey did a great job with my room compared to the VSX-1014TX I had before I upgraded to the 707.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Wallyangler View Post

The Gefen HDMI Detective might fix this. You'd need to get it programmed using a 3D capable TV as close to the specs of your Samsung. Once programmed and placed between the receiver and TV it should trick it into seeing your 2D as 3D capable.

That looks interesting. Essentially faking the EIDE of the Samsung TV (if I understand correctly) so I don't get downgraded to a non-3D signal. Hmmm...
Edited by neveser - 7/11/12 at 4:42pm
post #1788 of 2352
Quote:
Originally Posted by jdsmoothie View Post

^^
This would be true with any HDMI switch/splitter, regardless of whether part of the AVR or a separate switch/splitter .... if 1 display is 3D and the other is only 2D, only 2D will pass to both displays. The same applies to audio ... if one HDMI sink can process DD 5.1 and the other only stereo 2.0, then both outputs will only pass stereo 2.0.

Thats great info JD... as always you are right on point with the facts. I wasn't aware of that about receivers either... I knew there was a reason I've been trying to stick around this forum :tup:

BTW - to the original poster - I upgraded my TX-SR607 (well actually just moved it to another room and started a new system) and replaced it with the TX-NR709 and I've loved every second of it. Not really any particular reason other than that for the money, the options you get CANNOT be found in ANY other comparable receiver.I DO wish it had digital audio out of zone 2 (and HDMI) but NONE of the receivers under $1000 did that, so it is what it is. Just my $.02 though...
Edited by ten8yp - 7/12/12 at 10:29pm
post #1789 of 2352
Quick couple of questions on using the android app:

1) I can turn off the remote with the android app just fine, but I can't seem to turn it back on . Is there some trick to making that work?

2) Using Pandora, when a song is playing, is there a way to 'like' or 'not like a song'?

Thanks!
post #1790 of 2352
^^
1. Set Network Control (p. 60 OM) to "Enable".
2. AFAIK, no.
post #1791 of 2352
Quote:
Originally Posted by jdsmoothie View Post

^^
1. Set Network Control (p. 60 OM) to "Enable".
2. AFAIK, no.

Thanks!
post #1792 of 2352
Hey I just wanted to make sure that I understand this correctly as this is my first receiver that I can mess with crossovers. I am asking because my SVS sub says that with my speakers I should set it to a 60hz crossover. Now what I want to make sure I understand is how this all works.
1- subwoofer has it's own track hence the .1---That is not effect in any way by setting crossovers.....Correct?
2- when I set my main left and right to 60hz anything that is below that in the goes to the sub. Correct?
But the stuff below the 60hz is just extra duty for lack of a better word that the sub is taking on. So essentially what is happening is my receiver is saying hey you want what is above 60hz for the 5 speaker take it but anything below it sends it to the sub to pick up the slack. So is the sub playing the .1 track plus alittle extra or how exactly does this work. The lower I set my crossover is it effecting the output of the sub. Or is the front speakers at 60hz just add more depth or omph to the low impact sounds explosions and stuff. so it it more so kind of complimenting the low end.

I hope you kind of get what I mean or maybe you know an easy way to explain it. I just don't want to compromise my low end by setting my crossover to low. Or will it just compliment it by adding more to the low end by having the fronts at 60hz? I know it is probably not to noticeable or is it noticeable the difference between crossovers at 60hz and 80hz?

Thanks in advance.
Edited by Antimatter81 - 7/16/12 at 7:48pm
post #1793 of 2352
^^
First understand you should ignore the SVS speaker info and just let Audyssey do it's job to set up the speaker crossovers based on how they react in your home environment (which can be very different from what SVS indicates). For more info on this review the Audyssey 101 Guide linked in my sig.

1. Correct.
2. Correct. Sub would play the 0.1 track as well as the those speaker frequencies < 60hz, although as suggested above, let Audyssey set the correct crossover for each sub. If any speakers get set to FULL RANGE or < 80hz, you'll want to raise them up to 80hz, otherwise if set > 80hz, leave them as is.
post #1794 of 2352
Anyone use the harmony to control zone 2? Ironically, I've got he onkyo remote to control zone 2 perfectly but i cannot get the harmony to recognize the zone 2 command?
post #1795 of 2352
Quote:
Originally Posted by jdsmoothie View Post

^^
First understand you should ignore the SVS speaker info and just let Audyssey do it's job to set up the speaker crossovers based on how they react in your home environment (which can be very different from what SVS indicates). For more info on this review the Audyssey 101 Guide linked in my sig.
1. Correct.
2. Correct. Sub would play the 0.1 track as well as the those speaker frequencies < 60hz, although as suggested above, let Audyssey set the correct crossover for each sub. If any speakers get set to FULL RANGE or < 80hz, you'll want to raise them up to 80hz, otherwise if set > 80hz, leave them as is.

Cool thanks I appreciate the help. Yea I did read some of the Audyssey post on there Q&A and the guy says that remember that the Audyssey is setting it at what fits and accousticly sounds best for your particular room. So no setting will necissarily be the same. Iy is "ROOM Correction" and detects the rolloff points for that particular enviroment.

Thank You again for your help.
post #1796 of 2352
What remote do you have? I have got it to reconize Zone 2 on the Harmony One.
post #1797 of 2352
Quote:
Originally Posted by Antimatter81 View Post

What remote do you have? I have got it to reconize Zone 2 on the Harmony One.

I've got the Harmony 900, did you have to teach the zone 2 command?
post #1798 of 2352
So I've started trying to figure out an issue that I haven't bothered with since I got this receiver. I've got it connected to a Panasonic plasma (S series I believe, suddenly can't remember) with RIHD active. My current layout means my center channel blocks the IR receiver on the plasma (annoying but necessary for now since Panasonic decided to move it to the middle for some crazy reason). I can use the power button on the plasma and it brings up or shuts down the whole system properly. The interesting one is through the Onkyo remote. I can turn on the receiver with the remote, then use the TV Power button and it will turn on the plasma just fine. However, for whatever reason, that button won't turn off the plasma.

I haven't really bothered with this too much as it's not a huge deal. The only annoyance comes when I want to turn off the plasma and just listen to radio or the like. I have to turn off the plasma which turns off the whole system, then turn the receiver back on.

Anyone got any ideas how to get the RIHD to actually power down the plasma as well as power on?
post #1799 of 2352
So, everybody flew away ? eek.gif

I contacted Onkyo support asking aboutthe video problems and Multichannel FLAC files.
Responded those features would not be possile with chipset used in the product.

Is it me or is this a very lame answer on their part?
Even th video has been partly corrected, so what gives ?mad.gif
post #1800 of 2352
Hey guys. I just got this receiver and hooked it up yesterday in our basement H/T setup. I am running a 5.1 system with Paradigm Atoms as my fronts, a Paradigm CC-190 center, JBL in-wall speakers for the rears, and a Velodyne sub. Everything seems great so far, except for one thing.

I am using an Actiontec "My Wireless TV" unit to get digital cable TV to this television from our Motorola cable box upstairs. It seems to work fine as far as the picture. However, I'm not receiving Dolby Digital audio (or at least it's not showing up on the receiver). Everything defaults to Dolby Prologic II Movie. I can go through the different audio options on the receiver (THX modes, all channel stereo, etc), but true DD 5.1 doesn't show up. Does anyone know what could be causing this? I have the Actiontec unit connected to the receiver via HDMI.

Thanks for any help on this issue.
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