or Connect
AVS › AVS Forum › Display Devices › Rear Projection Units › 2011 Mitsubishi 3D DLP Owners Thread (740/840 series)
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:

2011 Mitsubishi 3D DLP Owners Thread (740/840 series) - Page 41

post #1201 of 3948
I can't argue most of your points... I do have a 2011 model home receiver (Yamaha) so that piece is the right kind for this TV. I have a DVD player with 1080p upconversion. I was good with the movie reproduction, although, my wife noticed no difference between the DLP and CRT picture.

The strobe effect is something alarming and puzzling. I saw a split screen where they were showing Miami on one screen and the Lakers on the other. The Miami game had live action on the split screen and that was flickering...the Laker game was in time out and didn't flicker when the Heat game did. I don't think that has anything to do with the pieces I have in play.

I'm going to buy a blu-ray and I might go HD satellite. Not sure.

Isn't it refreshing to see a guy not gush over an 82" TV?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Savatage316 View Post

Im not sure man, it just seems though that you bought this set and dont have any of the pieces to compelte the puzzle that makes it dazzle. Not having HD cable, not having blu ray, not having HDMI hookups....all these things are what makes the new tvs what they are and im just sayin, no wonder youre not feeling the tv.

Its like buying the body of a ferrari but not having the engine that is meant to go with it and being disappointed.

You gotta get the right devices and connections and the tv im sure will blow you away.
post #1202 of 3948
I understand though that in the past there were ways to maybe cut some corners not anymore my man. Blu Ray, HD cable...these things are imho automatic when owning some of the new sets. I couldnt imagine anything less, even a dvd player that so called upconverts...its just not even in the same ballpark as a BD player, not even in the same ballpark.

If you upgrade everything else, youre going to really see the difference.
post #1203 of 3948
Once I get the "pieces" I'll be sure to report back to you. I hope you're right.

BTW, my wife thinks the strobe effect on basketball games is people taking pictures. I don't think so, or people are taking a whole lot of pictures.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Savatage316 View Post

I understand though that in the past there were ways to maybe cut some corners not anymore my man. Blu Ray, HD cable...these things are imho automatic when owning some of the new sets. I couldnt imagine anything less, even a dvd player that so called upconverts...its just not even in the same ballpark as a BD player, not even in the same ballpark.

If you upgrade everything else, youre going to really see the difference.
post #1204 of 3948
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dee L. Peabody View Post

I can't argue most of your points... I do have a 2011 model home receiver (Yamaha) so that piece is the right kind for this TV. I have a DVD player with 1080p upconversion. I was good with the movie reproduction, although, my wife noticed no difference between the DLP and CRT picture.

The strobe effect is something alarming and puzzling. I saw a split screen where they were showing Miami on one screen and the Lakers on the other. The Miami game had live action on the split screen and that was flickering...the Laker game was in time out and didn't flicker when the Heat game did. I don't think that has anything to do with the pieces I have in play.

I'm going to buy a blu-ray and I might go HD satellite. Not sure.

Isn't it refreshing to see a guy not gush over an 82" TV?

If you are you running an 82" inch display and you are not watching an HD soure you are missing most of what the TV can do. Blu-Ray will make that obvious. I have the 92" and for Live TV I am running native resolutions outs of a Tivo HD and doing all the processing in DVDO DUO video processor. The set is calibrated and the set and any reasonable content looks fabulous. I marvel at how much better it is than my 2009 82".. because of the Video Processor I have some extra tricks up my sleve and the whole thing is just plain WOW!

Low stands my friends, lamps on bright, calibrated sets and very good sources are what makes the 82" and 92" sets display the picture they are capable of. The clear models are so sharp with a good source it will knock you out. I am not big on using the internal tuner or video processing. It might be better than in the past, but I just always send 1080P to my big sets.
post #1205 of 3948
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dee L. Peabody View Post

Once I get the "pieces" I'll be sure to report back to you. I hope you're right.

BTW, my wife thinks the strobe effect on basketball games is people taking pictures. I don't think so, or people are taking a whole lot of pictures.

DLPs do superb motion. You have something lousy in your source device or content.
post #1206 of 3948
I've double checked the manual and it does not indicates specifically where the IR emitter is located. I'm presuming it's on the control panel, but I do not see the typical window associated with IR. Can anyone confirm?
post #1207 of 3948
Dee L Peabody, most of your issues are directv issues and not using an hdmi cabe with this tv. Like you I had a 60 inch sony for the past 10 years. I did not want to upgrade because I was holding out for a Tivo directv receiver. And like you I would need to change my dish. Well they put the heavier dish on a short 3 foot pole on the side of my house because I did not want my roof drilled. the old dish was on a bracket on the side of the house but guy did not have that type of bracket to drill through stucco.

They charged me 50 for custom installation but worth it to me. Get yourself an hddvr, let them know you have a 3d capable tv to get the newer models. your picture will be fantastic but your channel changes will be slower. I have an 82840 and now everybody iwth their 60 to 65 inches wnats my tv. If you have room for a small rose bush on the side of house you have room for dish on pole.
post #1208 of 3948
Quote:
Originally Posted by Witchboard View Post

I've double checked the manual and it does not indicates specifically where the IR emitter is located. I'm presuming it's on the control panel, but I do not see the typical window associated with IR. Can anyone confirm?

I may be wrong here, but I think the emitter may actually be behind the screen (inside the TV). I think that is where the IR receiver was for the older TVs and I think it still is. This leads me to believe that the 3D emitter is behind the screen too?
post #1209 of 3948
I thought this was the first year the emitter was internal. I thought all previous years you had to have an external emitter. I'm not sure. Likely my problem is the glasses are just a little off as they are not Mitsus.
post #1210 of 3948
Quote:
Originally Posted by Witchboard View Post

I thought this was the first year the emitter was internal. I thought all previous years you had to have an external emitter. I'm not sure. Likely my problem is the glasses are just a little off as they are not Mitsus.

The LG brand glasses most likely are not compatible with the TV's internal emitter. The LG brand active shutter glasses are not "universal" which means that they are not compatible with all of the different IR emitter protocols.

The Mitsubishi internal emitter protocol is different than the LG emitter protocol.

The Xpand X-103 universal active shutter glasses are compatible with the Mitusbishi but under the Panasonic setting. The Xpand 3DG-X103 made for Mitsubishi TVs are compatible without any special setting. Panasonic glasses are compatible. Any glasses made to be compatible with Panasonic TVs are compatible. However since LG uses a different protocol than Panasonic, LG glasses most likely are not.
post #1211 of 3948
Quote:
Originally Posted by gtgray View Post

I have the 92" and for Live TV I am running native resolutions outs of a Tivo HD and doing all the processing in DVDO DUO video processor. The set is calibrated and the set and any reasonable content looks fabulous. I marvel at how much better it is than my 2009 82".. because of the Video Processor I have some extra tricks up my sleve and the whole thing is just plain WOW!

Hey What exactly does the DVDO DUO do? Are there different versions or models of it? Is there a section or thread dedicated to video processors? I am new to video processors and if there is a better quality picture to be had then I want in. lol
post #1212 of 3948
Quote:
Originally Posted by GEP View Post

The LG brand glasses most likely are not compatible with the TV's internal emitter. The LG brand active shutter glasses are not "universal" which means that they are not compatible with all of the different IR emitter protocols.

The Mitsubishi internal emitter protocol is different than the LG emitter protocol.

The Xpand X-103 universal active shutter glasses are compatible with the Mitusbishi but under the Panasonic setting. The Xpand 3DG-X103 made for Mitsubishi TVs are compatible without any special setting. Panasonic glasses are compatible. Any glasses made to be compatible with Panasonic TVs are compatible. However since LG uses a different protocol than Panasonic, LG glasses most likely are not.

Thanks for the clarification. I'll pick up a set of X103 and make sure that it's not an issue with the TV, then resell the LGs I guess. Shame as the LG glasses are really comfortable.
post #1213 of 3948
Quote:
Originally Posted by gtgray View Post

If you are you running an 82" inch display and you are not watching an HD soure you are missing most of what the TV can do. Blu-Ray will make that obvious. I have the 92" and for Live TV I am running native resolutions outs of a Tivo HD and doing all the processing in DVDO DUO video processor. The set is calibrated and the set and any reasonable content looks fabulous. I marvel at how much better it is than my 2009 82".. because of the Video Processor I have some extra tricks up my sleve and the whole thing is just plain WOW!

Low stands my friends, lamps on bright, calibrated sets and very good sources are what makes the 82" and 92" sets display the picture they are capable of. The clear models are so sharp with a good source it will knock you out. I am not big on using the internal tuner or video processing. It might be better than in the past, but I just always send 1080P to my big sets.

I love your enthusiasm for this set! It vindicates my own reaction to the new big displays, particularly with the clear screen, and the Duo makes it all even better. You did mean lamp setting on Natural rather than Bright, didn't you?
post #1214 of 3948
To gtgreg - You recently posted that you had your TV calibrated. If it is not to much trouble, please post your settings. Thanks.
post #1215 of 3948
Quote:
Originally Posted by garry01 View Post

To gtgreg - You recently posted that you had your TV calibrated. If it is not to much trouble, please post your settings. Thanks.

Plus One! I'd love to see the settings from a calibrated TV. Thanks
post #1216 of 3948
Quote:
Originally Posted by Witchboard View Post

Thanks for the clarification. I'll pick up a set of X103 and make sure that it's not an issue with the TV, then resell the LGs I guess. Shame as the LG glasses are really comfortable.

If the LGs are the only glasses you have right now and you like them, why not just buy an LG emitter and plug it into the VESA port on the back of the set? The only issue then is you are tied to using that brand going forward.
post #1217 of 3948
I don't think LG makes an external emitter as they are designed to work with their TV's that have integrated emitters. The reason I bought these glasses is because of they were more affordable and had better ratings than the 3DG-X103. Purchase of an external emitter, if available, would knock the cost effectiveness down and I might as well go with the ones that are suggested by Mitsu.
post #1218 of 3948
Quote:
Originally Posted by DavidMP View Post

Plus One! I'd love to see the settings from a calibrated TV. Thanks

So did I, that's why I paid to have it done. Our settings might not be for your room as lighting is different from room to room (might be close though). So lay out the green and have a ISF calibrator come in and do it for you. Or, you can do it yourself with the Spears & Munsil HD BD disc. You can calibrate the TV via the BD player with it. The calibrator guy used this same disc to do my TV. You just won't know if the color temp is dead on for 6500k. Those that bought a Oppo BD player, this disc comes free in the box. Now this doesn't complete the full calibration. You have a day setting and a night setting as well as a setting for HD TV as well as the BD player. A calibration guy will set all of this up on your TV. Cost with travel mileage of 126 miles round trip from the shop to my home, plus 3 hours of time in my home = $530. Was it worth the $$$$$, for me? Yes makes buying this big of a TV in the first place a worth while cost.
post #1219 of 3948
Quote:
Originally Posted by mthomas47 View Post

I love your enthusiasm for this set! It vindicates my own reaction to the new big displays, particularly with the clear screen, and the Duo makes it all even better. You did mean lamp setting on Natural rather than Bright, didn't you?

I meant Natrual Picture Mode and Lamp on Bright ( non-energy save).
post #1220 of 3948
Any places that you guys feel has the best and most frequent deals?
post #1221 of 3948
Quote:
Originally Posted by bsoko2 View Post

So did I, that's why I paid to have it done. Our settings might not be for your room as lighting is different from room to room (might be close though). So lay out the green and have a ISF calibrator come in and do it for you. Or, you can do it yourself with the Spears & Munsil HD BD disc. You can calibrate the TV via the BD player with it. The calibrator guy used this same disc to do my TV. You just won't know if the color temp is dead on for 6500k. Those that bought a Oppo BD player, this disc comes free in the box. Now this doesn't complete the full calibration. You have a day setting and a night setting as well as a setting for HD TV as well as the BD player. A calibration guy will set all of this up on your TV. Cost with travel mileage of 126 miles round trip from the shop to my home, plus 3 hours of time in my home = $530. Was it worth the $$$$$, for me? Yes makes buying this big of a TV in the first place a worth while cost.

All you can do with Spears and Munsil is basic stuff... brightness, contrast, sharpness and check for clipping.

You can not calibrate grayscale and or color gamut using Spears and Musil. You will need a meter, a PC and software and a pattern source.. While You can select a gammain advanced mode the factory gamma curves traditionally are not that flat or accurate.
post #1222 of 3948
Just received a 73740 today, connected to my MythTV frontend (nVidia 9500GT) over DVI to HDMI. After a miserable tech support call to Mits (wow....just wow....) I managed to figure out I needed to feed Linux (xorg, actually) an edited EDID block to get the Mits to ignore the HDMI for audio and play from the analog miniplug port.

My remaining concerns in terms of a first day-shake down have to do with overscan and geometry.

I have a rather dramatic amount of overscan on this display at 1920x1080--a large part of the Myth home screen is being cut off on the left. I tried altering the scaling/offset within Myth, but the TV seems to be compensating somehow, leaving me in the same position.

Most basically, do other owners experience a rather dramatic amount of overscan on this display? Secondly, should the overscan be off-center? When the HTPC goes into screensaver, the spinning wireframe it displays is noticeably off-center to the left, and more of the picture is lost on that side--the overscan is skewed. Is this normal?

I don't see an overscan slider in the nvidia-settings control panel, I don't know if that's because the driver doesn't think this display needs the control enabled, or whether I need to upgrade the driver version.
post #1223 of 3948
Quote:
Originally Posted by import2nr View Post

Hey What exactly does the DVDO DUO do? Are there different versions or models of it? Is there a section or thread dedicated to video processors? I am new to video processors and if there is a better quality picture to be had then I want in. lol

The DVDO DUO is first a swticher it has a bunch imputs and outputs.. 8 HDMI ports as a starter. It also is a scaler and deinterlacer. It converts interlaced and lower resolution video into 1080P or the output resolution of your choice with very high quality. It also has very hiqh quality zoom and stretch etc.

It also has a complete CMS ( Color Management System) Similar in some ways to what Advanced Mode offer, but with much more accurate control. It is also a pattern generator and has built in patterns similar to something like Digital Video Essentials. So it allows you calibrate much more accurate than the buit in controls. The graycale controls in the DUO allow you set 10 points of grayscale and gamma independently of each other. The built in control for grayscale is only a two point system, with some gamma presets to chose from. Color control on the DUO is also very much more precise than the Advance modes.

But what makes it almost magical is that the calibration software from either Chromapure or Calman will automatically calibrate the TV through the DVDO DUOto a level comparable to a good pro calibrator. On the DUO you plug in the meter to the PC, plug in the USB cable to the serial port on the DUO, aim the meter at the TV and select autocalibrate. 20 minutes later you have a full blown calibration inlcuding charts and reporting with no muss, no fuss and no real participation. Your job is basically to put the meter on the tripod or whatever, plug in the cables and let her rip.

Sure you can had tweak a bit after that, but really for the most part you are not going to improve it much beyond what the DUO and Chrompure do.

The DUO is about a grand. I paid $895 for mine a couple of years. A decent meter is $250 and probably less than $500 for software. There are always bundles and deals.
post #1224 of 3948
Quote:
Originally Posted by gtgray View Post

The DVDO DUO is first a swticher it has a bunch imputs and outputs.. 8 HDMI ports as a starter. It also is a scaler and deinterlacer. It converts interlaced and lower resolution video into 1080P or the output resolution of your choice with very high quality. It also has very hiqh quality zoom and stretch etc.

It also has a complete CMS ( Color Management System) Similar in some ways to what Advanced Mode offer, but with much more accurate control. It is also a pattern generator and has built in patterns similar to something like Digital Video Essentials. So it allows you calibrate much more accurate than the buit in controls. The graycale controls in the DUO allow you set 10 points of grayscale and gamma independently of each other. The built in control for grayscale is only a two point system, with some gamma presets to chose from. Color control on the DUO is also very much more precise than the Advance modes.

But what makes it almost magical is that the calibration software from either Chromapure or Calman will automatically calibrate the TV through the DVDO DUOto a level comparable to a good pro calibrator. On the DUO you plug in the meter to the PC, plug in the USB cable to the serial port on the DUO, aim the meter at the TV and select autocalibrate. 20 minutes later you have a full blown calibration inlcuding charts and reporting with no muss, no fuss and no real participation. Your job is basically to put the meter on the tripod or whatever, plug in the cables and let her rip.

Sure you can had tweak a bit after that, but really for the most part you are not going to improve it much beyond what the DUO and Chrompure do.

The DUO is about a grand. I paid $895 for mine a couple of years. A decent meter is $250 and probably less than $500 for software. There are always bundles and deals.

wow that's a ton of info right there. A lot of which I don't understand . lol. But from what I gather To get the most out of the dvdo duo I would need a meter and some sorta software. correct? Is this where the better video quality comes in? Or can better video quality be had just from plug and play? Does the better quality come from the upconverting and output to 1080p? And if I am understanding correctly It will upconvert pretty much anything? Or does is it need to be HDMI in order to output to 1080p. Example A Nintendo Wii which is non hdmi. Also when calibrating is it best to have all the lights on or off or during the day or night ?

Thanks again for any help in making understand things better.

Also whats the difference between this on and the DVDO Edge green or the DVDO iScan HD+High resolution video scaling engine. There is a big price difference between them. And thats pretty much the only difference I know of.
post #1225 of 3948
Quote:
Originally Posted by innatetech View Post

My remaining concerns in terms of a first day-shake down have to do with overscan and geometry.

I have a rather dramatic amount of overscan on this display at 1920x1080--a large part of the Myth home screen is being cut off on the left. I tried altering the scaling/offset within Myth, but the TV seems to be compensating somehow, leaving me in the same position.

Most basically, do other owners experience a rather dramatic amount of overscan on this display? Secondly, should the overscan be off-center? When the HTPC goes into screensaver, the spinning wireframe it displays is noticeably off-center to the left, and more of the picture is lost on that side--the overscan is skewed. Is this normal?

So, I was able to get the screen filled and looking normal by starting from scratch: resetting the Mits to factory, wiping the MythTV appearance settings, and blowing away my xorg.conf. I adjusted Myth's display manually and it looks like scaling to 1830x1030 with about 40 pixels right horizontal offset, and 20 pixels down vertical offset fills the frame just about right. Scaled video through VDPAU looks fine, so I am happy.

Although I would appreciate it if someone more experienced could tell me whether or not the skew of the overscan is normal before I get too comfortable....
post #1226 of 3948
Quote:
Originally Posted by gtgray View Post

All you can do with Spears and Munsil is basic stuff... brightness, contrast, sharpness and check for clipping.

You can not calibrate grayscale and or color gamut using Spears and Musil. You will need a meter, a PC and software and a pattern source.. While You can select a gammain advanced mode the factory gamma curves traditionally are not that flat or accurate.

That is correct. He told me he used it to check what he has done visually. Pc, meters, and all the good stuff was used on my TV for calibration. Out of the box the color temp was way off and the blue was pumped. Once it was all cablibrated, it was dead on 6500k. Now the Geek Squad will do a ISF caibration for $199.99 or so they advertise. Wonder what they do?
post #1227 of 3948
Quote:
Originally Posted by Savatage316 View Post

Any places that you guys feel has the best and most frequent deals?


Check out ShopNBC....
post #1228 of 3948
Has anyone had Geek Squad do a calibration on the 840's? BB is offering me a a few free ones with a 92840 purchase.
post #1229 of 3948
Quote:
Originally Posted by enthuzist View Post

Has anyone had Geek Squad do a calibration on the 840's? BB is offering me a a few free ones with a 92840 purchase.

I had them do one on my 73833 but not for my 82740 yet as they said I should have 200 hours before doing a calibration. I liked the picture a lot after the 73833 calibration. As long as it meets ISF requirements, I don't think you need to pay $500 + for a calibration.
post #1230 of 3948
Quote:
Originally Posted by lujan View Post

I had them do one on my 73833 but not for my 82740 yet as they said I should have 200 hours before doing a calibration. I liked the picture a lot after the 73833 calibration. As long as it meets ISF requirements, I don't think you need to pay $500 + for a calibration.

I once received a free calibration from the Geek Squad. They did levels (Brightness, Contrast) and Grayscale. They also set the color and tint controls using a filter bleh!. Anyway they never touched the color gamut controls. This tech claimed at the time it was policy, not to touch color. Now getting the color right could not be fully achieved on the 2009 sets with the built in controls but you could get the set a lot better than it was out of the box. ISF training/certification does not mean much if they only go so far, or don't have sufficient time to do it.

What another Best Buy tech would have done who can say. But their crappy, incomplete work had a lot to do with why I began to do it myself. Mits crappy internal controls on the 2009 models was the reason why I bought the DVDO DUO. Grayscale is pretty easy with the Mits DLPS. Getting gamma and color right are much, much harder. I think they were using Chroma5 meters at the time. Who know whether they had a correct profile for the meter for the set. If the meter is a colorimeter and is not running a profile for the type of display, you are off before you start. A good spetrometer will be fine but they are very slow on the darker grays. A good pro will either use a a good spectrometer or a spectro and a colorimeter trained for the display type preferable trained on the idividual display itself using the readings from the spectro.

God only knows what BB really does. I am sure some of the techs do a good and complete job. I am sure it is much more likely on the paid jobs then the free one. I know I would want in writing a description of the work they were going to do before I paid them to come out.
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:
  Return Home
  Back to Forum: Rear Projection Units
AVS › AVS Forum › Display Devices › Rear Projection Units › 2011 Mitsubishi 3D DLP Owners Thread (740/840 series)