2011 Mitsubishi 3D DLP Owners Thread (740/840 series) - Page 68

Fixed up most of my issues and have been enjoying my 92840 very much these last couple weeks.

Slowly but surely; partly from the conversations in these forums knowing the proper height and knowing my stand height is about 10 inches too tall, and partly because I can physically see/feel the difference when watching something if I try rising from my seat a foot or more to see what it would feel like.

So within the next couple weeks I want to upgrade to the perfect stand for my TV. I can maybe put the legs on the slider/casters like I did on this stand to move it when I have to get behind it. So it doesn't have to be as short in length as I went with the last one. In looking around at stands for sale made for the 92840 maybe I am overlooking some, but everything seems 20" or so in height. If the whole point is to try to get to no more than maybe 15" does that mean everyone with a proper height stand had to go with a custom built stand? That worries me a little because of this TV's weight, I definitely want to "know" the stand's top shelf will have no problems supporting the weight. What options are out there for the 92840 with proper (or at least close to proper) heights?

This is the one I got for my 82740 (up to 150lbs) and I don't know the weight of the 92" TVs? It's perfect for the 82" and just the right height. The only thing is that it doesn't fit much below it because of the shorter height.

http://www.techcraft.net/4105/detail...roduct_id=1649

I think that the 92" model is so new (and not all that many have been sold yet) that stand manufacturers just haven't caught up yet. There aren't many choices out there even for an 82" TV and those have been around awhile. I wouldn't be concerned about having a sturdy stand made. Sturdy is easy and you know the weight it needs to bear going in. Depending on how close you are sitting, I would consider 15" as an upper limit for the 92840. If you could get all your components to fit the way you want, 12" seems to be about ideal with this set. I went with a 14" stand to give me more component flexibility, then moved even closer to the display, and ended up putting casters under my recliner to get to where I would have been had I gone with a 12" stand. (Who says AVS members are nuts?) Preferences vary on all of this stuff, but again depending on your components, I might recommend starting very low with the stand. You can, as you said, always add casters to it if you like. But displays are only going to get bigger.

Unfortunately that is one of the problems with my choices out there, the weight of the 92 is almost 200lbs, about double that of the old 72 I used to have. Plus the deepness of the TV means although I want it as low to the ground as possible, it still has to be 21" deep to support the TV so the back doesn't stick off the edge in the back (the 82 and 72 were only about 17" deep if memory serves).

So if I want 12" (got to have at least 10" on the components shelf though) to 15" (max) in height, where do i go? Any recommendations? Any of you 92" owners with low stands that had custom builds want to recommend a place you got your done? Any pics? Thanks!

I think your best bet is just to have something done locally. I believe that is what all of us who did custom stands have done. My local AV store had a cabinet maker they recommended to me. Another option might be to ask around at Lowe's or someplace. I would just be looking for someone who could do a sturdy, durable stand. Since mine was painted glossy black (just Sherwin Williams Black Lacquer), fine cabinetry wasn't really my objective. Several of us have gotten something done locally for around $350. I am attaching a picture I posted back in November on the 92" thread. Although I was responding to a request for screen captures, this shot with the lights on does show most of the stand. I went with 14" high, 25" deep, and 63" wide, with 2 supports dividing the stand into 3 equal compartments of about 20" each. I also went with adjustable shelves, but am only using the center one. It is very sturdy, perfectly serviceable, and I think looks nice.

Hey there, I saw some people with these models also had the same problem with color decoding, so I wanted to post my experience here as well as the 73640 thread.

A tech came by today to replace the main board. This did NOT solve the problem.

-------------------------
I wasn't gonna mention this, but feel the need to vent.

The Tech kept telling me that 'factory settings' are ideal... IE, sharpness at 32 (or 31 or whatever it is). Obviously, this is complete BS, and I told him so, several times.

Today, I used the Transformers 2 BD to display the problem. The pop up timeline (when you hit 'pause') is an ideal way to show the problem... because several sets of numbers are crystal clear with sharpness at 0... while the one set in the middle (telling you how far you are into the movie) is completely, digitally, blurred with the problem we've been discussing (this case being thin white text on red background). There's also a scene at 24:13 that shows 3 different people with the problem in their lips within the movie itself.

He kept saying "We'll, if you keep the sharpness at 'factory' then its okay". And I'd have to explain again why sharpness that high is bad for the 6th time. And that there was absolutely no reason for every other set of numbers to be crystal clear with sharpness at 0, except this white/red combo; its not like everything went blurry on the TV cause sharpness was too low. But I managed to stay polite.

This is where it went down hill.

I checked the menu of the TV... and the firmware of the new board was 13.03. I asked him to update it. He said "no" its not his job.

I replied with "Well, it seemed to be your job the first time you were here and you said that you 'had to update it' even though it was fully updated anyway, because it was protocol". Funny how now it isn't "his job".

Then he grumbled and was obviously annoyed that he was asked to do this, so I told him to leave. I didn't want him messing up the TV any further out of spite.

So he asked me to sign the paperwork saying he installed the new board. I told him to write down that the problem wasn't solved, and I would indeed sign. He refused. So I refused signature.

So that was my fun time with Mits authorized TV repair.

My point --- don't let Mits pick the authorized center for you, call around and talk to a few different authorized places in your area and choose the best one yourself.

Anyway, that's all... I'll be calling Mits as soon as my wife takes the two kids out of the house.

Any help appreciated...

Sorry about all the problems you're having. I have had issues with Mitsubishi TV's in the past but if you keep insisting, Mitsubishi usually makes it right. Also, I loved your last sentence and it made me laugh.

Hahaha - Thanks.... in the original thread I had a ( ) after that sentence... must not have pasted over.

Looks like you got the meaning anyway though.

I'm sorry, did you ever post back? Hard to follow thru all the pages. I think there was someone else who promised to test and didn't post back as well.


The bolded part is disturbing. They know its a problem and yet refuse to fix it?

Can you give us a picture of what you're talking about? Sorry if you've already provided one. If you have, maybe give us the post number?

No prob... here are some direct links to photos I uploaded. Note that there are descriptions above each picture.

Also, this was argued about back when I originally posted so I'll explain again here... there's a difference in angle/distance of the before/after photos because I was taking the photo by hand, putting the camera down, changing the sharpness setting, then picking the camera back up and snapping off a shot. Sharpness was all I changed. The difference in apparent color temp/saturation is just a product of the camera's slight change in angle to the TV, from when I took the 'before' picture, to when I picked up the camera again and took the 'after' pic.

Posts #812 and #813
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...334815&page=28

Post # 860
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...4#post21537424


Here's post #967
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...7#post21555377

Howl had some really good stills of people's teeth/nostrils being all messed up via his test ISO. Maybe he can come back and repost those.

** Found a still from Howl ***

Note the pics on the Left of the image have had their color temp changed BEFORE getting to the TV. The pics on the right are more accurate 'normal' skintones.
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...6#post21532626

gtgray:

Well, here is an idea...

What are the settings you like? Can you please post them?

For each Source, PC (especially this one), Cable/Satellite, Blu-ray, etc. If you don't mind...

I know I would really appreciate it, plus I'm really wanting to see what settings ppl are using/liking for use with HTPC/Computer (my main source for computer use, gaming, and watching blu-ray and dvds), which no one seems to want to share. I'd share mine, but honestly I know they aren't that good, so I could use some suggestion/help.

THANKS!!!

I can tell you for sure, this cannot be done. While you can adjust geometry in the service menu, you cannot adjust overscan (even when using the geometry controls). I attempted this with the help of a service technician at one point, I planned on using the un-overscanned geometry settings for when playing computer games as sometimes much of the information such as HUD's can be cut off. However, as you adjust geometry in the service menu, you can straighten out the lines around the edges, but if you attempt to bring all adjustment points inward (towards the center) in order to adjust overscan itself, the points end up just snapping back once you save the settings. When the service tech discussed this with tech support the answer he received (from both tech support and escalated tech support) was the overscan cannot be adjusted in this manner, or at all. I assume the snapping back is a failsafe to prevent significant alteration of the quality of the image being shown on the screen.

I would also like to see a basic idea of decent settings for the 92840. I played around a bit with the ADV1 settings, reducing the blues a bit (blue high to around 960), the greens a small amount (green high to around 1000) and bringing the red down to 1015. Of course turning sharpness down to 0, edge enhance off, etc... I would love to have it calibrated properly, but I don't have the money to purchase the equipment right now, nor is there anybody in the area that does it (nor would I want to pay somebody half as much as the equipment itself... at that point I would rather just purchase the equipment so I could do it again in the future). So some decent out of the box settings would be great to see. I wouldn't even know where to begin adjusted the Lows of the RGB colors, nor would I have any idea where to begin adjusting the colors themselves RGBMCY.

On a side note, when using 3D glasses (in my case the x104's and sometimes the x103's) I found the glasses give the picture a greenish tint, anybody else seem to see that? I made an ADV2 setup with the greens reduced further in order to compensate, seems to look better.

Thanks for all the help and responses everyone. It's starting to look like the 82" might just be too much for my current room.

I'm starting to look at an open box 75" Laservue that I found in town. I'm assuming it's the 94 series because it has a glossy screen. This would alleviate most of my concerns (deeper blacks, the RBE, my stand height and viewing distance). I'll have to save up a little more money but if it's an investment in my viewing pleasure, I guess it's worth it (as long as their floor model is still around).

I'll be taking my laptop in with some HD material (they only have OTA broadcast connected) and I'll see if they can let me adjust the color. Last time I was in there, Wheel of Fortune was playing and everyone looked like they had 3rd degree sunburns. Since this is an open box model, there won't be a warranty. Are there any online places like this that would cover the TV? I guess my future questions will be posted in a different thread. Again, I've appreciated everyone's input.

I posted my calibration settings for my 92840 on the 92" thread. http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...1#post21619931 I will be glad if you find them helpful as long as we recognize going in that different sets, and even different room lighting can affect the applicability of someone else's settings. On my display, these settings give me an incredible picture, but they were tailored specifically to that set and lighting environment.

Start here, its the glasses, mine you these are for DLP LINK:
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showp...postcount=1046

Page with more info:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...334815&page=35
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showp...postcount=1193

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showp...postcount=1193

Mitsubishi TV Settings
Film Mode Auto
Picture Mode ADV1
Edge Enhance Off
Video Noise Off
Brightness 30
Contrast 63
Color 35
Tint 30
Sharpness 31
Gamma 2.2
Red High 1011
Green High 1023
Blue High 1010
Red Low 0
Green Low 0
Blue Low 0
Red Adjust 15,0,0
Green Adjust 0.13,5
Blue Adjust 0,0,15
Magenta Adjust 17.0,14
Cyan Adjust 0,16,13
Yellow Adjust 17.13,0

Thanks, I'll give this a try. Still want to see gtgray settings though.

Yea, it is definitely the glasses. They all do this to an extent, well at least all the glasses I have (X103, X104 or youniversal, and Nvidia 3D Vision Glasses) each have their own unique tint to them, but each have a tint. The worst of these is the Nvidia Glasses, having both a greenish and yellowish tint, the best are probably the X103's having the least amount of tint, followed closely by the X104's. All of these do have some sort of tint however. I guess it is the nature of how the technology works, the glasses are LC and are bound to have some form of tint, you can see this just putting the glasses on when they are off. The trick is calibrating a second setting to compensate for whatever tint the glasses provide. Not even sure how to do this except by eye lol. Guess you could try placing the calibration equipment behind the glasses... not sure how well that would work.


EDIT:

I should also ask what a decent meter to get for calibrating is? I saw GtGray mention ChromaPure as a good software to use a while back, but never mentioned what a decent meter is, only an estimated price ($250). ChromaPure themselves sells a meter with their software, but I would just be guessing as to the quality of it. Of course the other thing GtGray was promoting then was the fact that when hooked up to a DVDO DUO it can automatically calibrate your TV. However, the DVDO DUO is fairly outdated now, not having full compatibility with HDMI 1.4 (though not THAT important to me as mostly I run 3D Movies through my computer which I have got outputting in Checkerboard format {was not an easy task either...}). Not sure if there are any other processors at around the $1k mark that do the same auto-calibrate, excellent upscalling, AND support HDMI 1.4... Not from what I have found, but I guess you never know.

I tend to ramble, sorry, my true question is what do any of you use for a decent calibrating meter, and has anybody found a new processor that allows the auto-calibrate with software like ChromaPure that won't put someone out thousands of dollars... Perhaps this isn't the best thread to post that question in... but it is for the 840 series TV lol...

Same, going to give it a shot tonight. This seems to be a lot heavier in the green and blue channels than what I have set currently, so will have to see, of course each TV is different so it could be the difference in the TV's or me just being colorblind... Either way, excited to give anything a shot! Thanks!

HSN, of all places, had the 73740 on sale 1399 fee ship and the wifi adaptor. You could do their flex pay for 6 months extended from the usual 4 months. I seen this same set on amazon for 1799. 2 year warranty with HSN, but I suspect they all come with 2 years factory warranty? But for 233 x 6 payments and free ship, it seemed to be an attractive deal ???

I have been completely occuppied with family issues. Me posting settings is kind of meaningless as I am using a DVDO DUO and autocalibration.. I am no longer using Natural. I did my last calibration at about 350 hours it visually seems to be holding steady. When the autocalibration is done I touched it up manually. To be honest I have made some changes to ADV1 but they are minor. My particular calibration also involves a tricky use of the DUO's Picture controls. This allows me to hold the 30 ft lambert are for 100 percent white with little or no color clipping all the way out to digital 250 ish. None of that is relevant to anyone who is not using a 92840 and a DUO.

As for a meter. For the money the D3 Pro and Chromapure is the software and hardware to use. Tom Huffman at ChromaPure includes a DLP Rear Projector table for the D3 Pro. It works great.

I need to fight with Mitsubishi, have little stomach for it and even less time right now. The thing people need to realize this oricessubg bug is not just about Red and White as adjacent colors. It occurs with many different color combinations.. Text is often the easiest way to see it... But look at teeth, I know there are a lot of people wearing braces these days but not that many! You can watch the braces come and go on the same inidividual. Sometimes it looks like people have mirrors on their teeth.

Running at 31 sharpening is no answer, the artifacts that much sharpening causes are just as bad if not worse then the ones they solve. If you talk to Mits ask them why Edge Ehance is of by default in ADV mode? The answer is obvious..

I have heard all the stories about my set doesn't do this... I ask if anyone in the Houston area who has one of 2011 sets who claim not to see the problem would allow me to examine their set. Naturally no came forward.

I will challenge anyone to post photos of screens without the but that also show there sharpening set to off. If your set does not exhibit this problem you are absolutely doing a disservice to the community by not providing us proof. We need to something to work with to force Mitubishi's hand.

As any troubleshooter can tell you, you have to have a properly working example to isolate and troubleshooting a non-properly working unit. Those of who have the bug need help.

Refusing to look at your own set objectively does not help anyone. If you don't have the issue whereever you are reading this, give us proof pics and a s/n so we can go beat Mits about the head.Some of you spent $800, some spent $5000 we are all in this together.

Your post is much appreciated, gtgray.

Research shows that, when looking at someone of the opposite sex talking, most women look at the guy's eyes, while most men look at the woman's lips. That's where they look most frequently, as their eyes move around, of course.




You can definitely count me in those statistics, and the defect I have been reporting on bothers me the most when it appears in lips & teeth - the mouth area.



You have no idea how much worse this looks WHEN ITS MOVING. These stills barely show anything compared to what it really looks like on the TV, happening.

Notice the white appearing inside the nostils on both of these last two woman. That too looks horrible when it's moving. And it does move with the person's face.

And for the ladies - or those who care about teeth:



Oh, no teeth in this one, just a white line smack in the middle of his lip. Notice similar artifact under his chin. Just depends on the intensity and brightness of the red and what's nearby.



See how the white inside the nostrils stays as the person moves. It's VERY distracting.






(Color casts are due to camera's refresh rate synchronizing -or not - with the 120Hz mirrors.)

And for those of us who like to read:



Notice how the same text on a BLACK background is very legible.



(this last one has some pixels missing due to the high shutter speed - but the key illustration remains)

Vanishing Red Lines - A Mitsubishi Trick:



Above: Image on LCD (crop)

Below: Same image on 2011 Mits DLP (crop)



Above: Image on 2011 Mits DLP (crop)

Below: The actual source image (crop)

hey man, I live at Barker Cypress and West Little York, if you want to schedule some time to stop by my place and check out my set i'm cool with it. You can feel free to tweak my TV if you want, but I can do my part to help.

Let me know.

I've attached a side-by-side from my WD-73840 (via thumbdrive attached to my PS3) of one of the portions of the sample photo that has been posted on this thread. The left side of the picture illustrates the artifacting w/ sharpness set to 0. The right side shows the jagged "improvement" with sharpness set to 31.

As mentioned earlier, this isn't just a "red" issue.