2011 Mitsubishi 3D DLP Owners Thread (740/840 series) - Page 79

The text file only has the firmware number...but it's needed for the update. When I updated to 13.05, I didn't put the text file on my thumb drive, and it didn't work. Someone here(Howl-?) told me to include it, and it worked fine.

Also, I posted in the bug thread, but wanted to post here as well. I downloaded the 13.06 update tonight. Initial reports are that it has fixed the issues. I had minor problems compared to some, but they were noticeable. I see nothing now.

I do have one question...and I know it's early, but what do people thing the Sharpness setting should be on these sets going forward? Still zero? I'm experimenting now.

Yeah, I was just answering someone's question as to what info is in the txt file (he was hoping there was a firmware description in there).

Sharpness --- I still have set to zero. I've just been looking at a 1080p test pattern and I may be able to get it as high as 10 before the haloing begins on the black bars... but, there's some weird stuff going on with the finer patterns if I go up to even a sharpness setting of 2. I need to get closer to see if I'm gaining info, or losing it in those finer patterns... but I'm assuming 'losing'.

Safest bet is 0, thus far (for me).

Thanks, JP. Since I've had the checkerboard work around on lately, I forgot the pop this TV has when it's bright. I have it in my basement so it's always nice and dark. It really looks great tonight.

Does Mits release what their firmware changes/fixes/adjusts? Just curious to know what changes they made to correct the problems.

Thanks for the information. I just wanted to confirm nothing ELSE was changed and/ or added.

Yeah, its funny how much less brightness/contrast you need in non-3D mode.

FYI, for anyone else who cares about Sharpness settings... Using the free calibration videos from this forum, via flash drive on the PS3, I did a quick calibration.

In the sharpness image... It took me to about 8-10 to see haloing on the 'standard size' black lines and the large black square. BUT --- Even at sharpness 1-2 some white 'halo-ish' stuff was going on in the finer patterns. So I got up really close and played with the sharpness settings. And NO info is lost when putting sharpness down to 0. Nothing. Raising it up just adds that false white info that destroys your actual resolution.

There's a little description of the sharpness test on the manual PDF, that confirms what most suspect regarding this TV. While a few HD displays may indeed deploy some kind of false 'softening' technology, this sharpness test is supposed to show it thru stretched 'dots' and lost info in the finer patterns. None of that happens at Sharpness 0.... so according to the instructions, and from all my knowledge-gathering of the past 10 years or so, leave sharpness at 0 for this set.


I hear ya, I wish we could get that info as well. I'm pretty sure someone here in these threads asked for a description of the last firmware from Mits, and they replied to his/her email with (paraphrasing) "We do not release firmware update details to the public". Which is really lame.

So are you guys seeing no degradation in picture quality from this update? Specifically halos from sharpening with sharpening at 0? Halos drive me more insane than the bug its self so I've been living with sharpness off. If there are no edge enhancement tricks going on with this new update that's great, will be updating when I get home Thursday.

I see no halos on the sharpness test images (with sharpness at 0, obviously).

I did notice some weird subtle halos on my xbox 360's guide-button windows. Though those may be 'baked in' for lack of a better term. The 3D checkerboard mode has the identical phenomenon... So the skeptic in me doesn't know if that's because that subtle halo stuff is baked in, and 3D mode showing it confirms it... or if 3D checkerboard mode has been made to show the same defects as normal mode, so we can't A/B any problems easily.

But really... 1080p test patterns check out, and I haven't noticed any haloing going on in my normal footage. Just that Xbox window.

So is it official yet that the defect is fixed with the last firmware update? My tv is sitting out next to my pool table right now while I paint my room so I can't download and check until next week sometime...

Its always excuses with this guy! You know the Romans built the Colosseum in the same time you are doing that basement, right?

LOL!
Them thar Romans work fast!! It's been almost 5 days since the TV was unhooked so I could remove mirrors, patch drywall, and paint
Suffering from serious bigscreen withdrawal!

Has anyone noticed that their remote control stops after about 7 consecutive pushes? For example, adjusting the sharpness or contrast large amounts? Mine just stalls out and I have to wait nearly a minute for it to recover. Never seen this kind of performance before now on any remote? It's like the memory buffer gets full, ha.

I think the biggest surprise is....You Use the Remote that came with the TV???

Most go to an all-in-one solution by Logitech or a tablet of some kind. I haven't seen a post that I know of with bad remotes with these TV's.

Under warranty, get a new one from Mits.

No, I have a Logitech 700 for automation; but, still use the Mit's for TV settings. Old habits are hard to break.

I also use the TVs remote for changing settings, but I have not noticed the problem you are describing.

Mine does the same thing. Even if I use my universal remote.

Sn....my remote "learned" the commands from the factory remote so I would guess its the tv not the remote?

Anybody know a way to coerce the TV into updating automatically?

i would assume that if you unplug the TV for a few minutes, then plug it back in, it would attempt to contact the mothership shortly thereafter.

i could be wrong.

I have found that going into the network settings and turning things off then on, then turning the TV off while connected to the network seems to have worked the last 2 times.

Auto did not work for me either. I tried connecting to the internet apps and turning off and no joy. But, I didn't try Aaron's method. I did a manual and the update is a must.

Does anyone have a link to a post where fine tuning of the 740 model is done? I haven't gotten mine yet but want to be able to maximize the PQ.

I just ordered a WD-73740, and naturally, I need to get some glasses... started shopping, quickly got overwhelmed... and decided to come ask the experts... you guys that already have one.

I did search the thread (pretty thoroughly I think) but didn't really find what I was looking for which is a direct comparison between the compatible products. I will need to end up with 5 pairs, so if I can't find a decent reliable comparison, I may order some different ones and compare myself.

I currently already own a pair of Nvidia 3D Vision rechargeable glasses that came with my Acer HN274H monitor... but not sure if they'll work with the internal Mitsubishi emitter.

I am considering:

3ACTIVE

True Depth 3D

The True Depth 3D also has some confusing info (poor site layout)... the above link's comments say it's compatible, but then THIS link seems to be a special version just for our TV, but the description says "Each pair also includes 2 CR2032 battery rated to last at least 50 hours!" so I assume they are different (not rechargeable)... then THIS link has a "March Madness" sale (making it the exact same price as 3ACTIVE) but doesn't really say for sure if it's either (or neither) of the above-linked models.

Any advice? If I should visit another thread for this sort of thing, just let me know.

I have the Dimensional Optics glasses and really like them. The Panasonic model is actually compatible with the internal emitter on the 73740, so this is the one you want: http://www.dimensionaloptics.com/Pro...000&p=A1S01252

My review of the glasses is there under "Dave M" on 2/9/12.

DO NOT BUY THE TRUE DEPTHS! Only reason people buy them is a "blind buy" and are the only pair they have so naturally they are the BEST! Not true, for DLP LINK they are the worst. Emperical and myself did our own testing and I started comparisons on page 35 of this thread:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showp...postcount=1046

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...334815&page=35

Page 40 Emperical agrees with me after testing both out.
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showp...postcount=1192


Green tint is a bad thing with these glasses.

Dimensional Optics recently updated their listings....so the model shown by DiamondDave is fine for the 73740...though the Panasonic works as well.

For 3D glasses: XPand 103 universals work great with the internal emitter. I picked up 4 of them on eBay for under $200 - all work great.

I also have the xPand 103 Universals and Amazon has them for around the same price. I like them and they come with extra batteries and nose pieces.

I have the xpands as well and can confirm they work great w the internal emitter on the 82740

I got these and they work great. They are made specifically for our TVs.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...00_i00_details

These are exactly the same as the xPand 103 and cost more just because they have the "Mitsubishi" name on them. Not worth it...

The other XPands have to be "set" to work with our TVs. These are already good to go when you turn them on. It's all in what you want.