AVS › AVS Forum › Display Devices › Rear Projection Units › 2011 Mitsubishi 3D DLP Owners Thread (740/840 series)
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:

2011 Mitsubishi 3D DLP Owners Thread (740/840 series) - Page 93

post #2761 of 3829
Yup, when something works why mess around with it? Hehe.
My best speakers are a set of handpicked JBLs that I purchased about 10 years ago. They were massive for a 27" tube tv heh. I have a set of Polk rm510 purchased 3 years ago when I moved back into the US. They are tiny in comparison, but with very nice sound, and the sub has its own remote. The Denon set I just bought a couple months ago is just pathetic. I have no clue what I would use them for. Maybe connected to the pc downstairs... Lol.

Here's the thing with technology: when I purchased my jbl speakers, I got a jvc receiver. I think the remote alone still sells for over $150. Which sucks because I lost it when I moved to Spain for 2 years. Anyway. Back then, nobody had HDMI. The best and greatest for video was composite cables, and for sound, optical. This meant 5 cables between receiver and tv.

When I purchased the Polk rm510, I bought a 50v10 plasma, the speakers, the sub, and a yamaha receiver. There was no 3D available at the store. I don't think there were even hdmi 1.4a ports available on any receiver.

Now, I purchased the Denon hometheater in a box, which has 5.1 speakers and hdmi 1.4a for 3D, but it's junk. Only cost me $200, though original price was about $600. At $600, I'd kill myself. At $200, I still slap my wrist lol. It's better have been used to purchase a dual hdmi 3D bluray player or save for a new receiver.

The yamaha and jvc receivers work great, like brand new, why replace them? I have since purchased an sv472xvt led, a 55st30 3D plasma, and a 55lm8600 3D led, which I just returned yesterday. Since now I'm planning on having 2 3D tv's, I need to figure out how to spend the least amount of money and make everything work out perfectly.

In your setup, you need to connect anything that has 3D capabilities directly to the tv, because it's your only 3D compatible output. The tv then should be hooked up to your receiver through a coax cable. I will look for pictures and post them later, if allowed.
post #2762 of 3829
Quote:
Originally Posted by jromankvcc View Post

Yup, when something works why mess around with it? Hehe.
My best speakers are a set of handpicked JBLs that I purchased about 10 years ago. They were massive for a 27" tube tv heh. I have a set of Polk rm510 purchased 3 years ago when I moved back into the US. They are tiny in comparison, but with very nice sound, and the sub has its own remote. The Denon set I just bought a couple months ago is just pathetic. I have no clue what I would use them for. Maybe connected to the pc downstairs... Lol.

Here's the thing with technology: when I purchased my jbl speakers, I got a jvc receiver. I think the remote alone still sells for over $150. Which sucks because I lost it when I moved to Spain for 2 years. Anyway. Back then, nobody had HDMI. The best and greatest for video was composite cables, and for sound, optical. This meant 5 cables between receiver and tv.

When I purchased the Polk rm510, I bought a 50v10 plasma, the speakers, the sub, and a yamaha receiver. There was no 3D available at the store. I don't think there were even hdmi 1.4a ports available on any receiver.

Now, I purchased the Denon hometheater in a box, which has 5.1 speakers and hdmi 1.4a for 3D, but it's junk. Only cost me $200, though original price was about $600. At $600, I'd kill myself. At $200, I still slap my wrist lol. It's better have been used to purchase a dual hdmi 3D bluray player or save for a new receiver.

The yamaha and jvc receivers work great, like brand new, why replace them? I have since purchased an sv472xvt led, a 55st30 3D plasma, and a 55lm8600 3D led, which I just returned yesterday. Since now I'm planning on having 2 3D tv's, I need to figure out how to spend the least amount of money and make everything work out perfectly.

In your setup, you need to connect anything that has 3D capabilities directly to the tv, because it's your only 3D compatible output. The tv then should be hooked up to your receiver through a coax cable. I will look for pictures and post them later, if allowed.

The Bose I bought when I bought the Pioneer Elite AVR at a best buy with a magnolia in it, the bose was actually a open box item and was reduced in price, I thought I'd use them as a Temporary sound solution to have 5.1 surround sound on my 65732 Mits.

Had planned on upgrading to a Klipsch surround set of speakers, thought the bose would be shot after a year or so, they still sound pretty good for tv/movies.

If I win the Lotto i'd like these- http://www.amazon.com/Klipsch-Speake...I1EMQR88GZBVBG

Or these- http://www.amazon.com/Klipsch-RF-42I...=IFKAQ3U3IC4N6

Thanks for all your replies, it's helping me.

I may repack up the Samsung and see if hhgregg has a 2 HDMI unit they sell in store and exchange units.

Pics are always a Good thing.
post #2763 of 3829
Quote:
Originally Posted by American & Proud View Post

The Bose I bought when I bought the Pioneer Elite AVR at a best buy with a magnolia in it, the bose was actually a open box item and was reduced in price, I thought I'd use them as a Temporary sound solution to have 5.1 surround sound on my 65732 Mits.

Had planned on upgrading to a Klipsch surround set of speakers, thought the bose would be shot after a year or so, they still sound pretty good for tv/movies.

If I win the Lotto i'd like these- http://www.amazon.com/Klipsch-Speake...I1EMQR88GZBVBG

Or these- http://www.amazon.com/Klipsch-RF-42I...=IFKAQ3U3IC4N6

Thanks for all your replies, it's helping me.

I may repack up the Samsung and see if hhgregg has a 2 HDMI unit they sell in store and exchange units.

Pics are always a Good thing.



OK, I'm hoping this helps. Took me a while to get it all set to where I think you should be good to go.

I've tried to attach image connections.jpeg. It's my first time attaching anything, so I may mess up.

I checked your receiver, your TV, and your remote.

You need to connect any 3d sources to your TV directly, not through the AVR, though I think you've already understood that, so this may be a moot point. Connect any non 3D sources directly to your receiver through HDMI. HDMI is going to provide you with the best sound.

As far as I know, there are very few 3D players with dual hdmi. I've found the Panasonic BDT500 ($300-$350) that just came out, the BDT310 $250 (though can find cheaper, for about $150 probably), from last year, and the oppo95 which is like $500 (and universal, I believe). So if you're looking into returning your bluray player, check if they have one of these. There are others, I just haven't researched them long enough.

Most TVs I've had used Optical cable as the audio output. The Mitsubishi DLPs have coaxial instead. Remember the link I provided you yesterday. I think it's like $5, so it shouldn't break the bank. I don't know the limitations of coax, but I know it also depends on the limitations of the TV. If the TV cannot output Dolby Digital, then you won't be able to get dolby digital on your receiver in this way. I don't own the 82840 YET, so I'm not sure of its capabilities. Somebody may be able to help us on this.

For the time being, plug that coax cable to the back of your TV, on the "Digital Audio Output" and to the "CD IN Coax Input" in your receiver. When looking at the back of it, I think it's all the way to the left, almost at the bottom. There should be an optical input right next to it.

On your pioneer remote, you'll have to tap the CD source button to have the audio pass through to the speakers. And you'll have to change the input on the TV to whichever source you're using.

In the end, I believe you'll have 3 HDMI going to your TV, and 1 Coaxial coming out of it. The 3 HDMI should be: 1) Receiver (I don't know if you have other things connected to the receiver that would pass through to the TV through HDMI), 2) 3D BluRay Player, 3) HD DVR with 3D capabilities.

We still have to figure out if there's something wrong with your DVR. BUT if you plug your system THIS way, you can call back to DirecTV and tell them that you've taken the receiver out of the equation, and if you still don't see that list of channels, they need to do something in their end, because it's no longer your AVR's fault. Also, like I suggested, try switching the DVR boxes one night just to test if her box has something that yours doesnt.

Are there other options? yup, one more, but let's try this one first. The other option requires you connect a coax from your DVR to your receiver under CD Coax In (instead of connecting the TV to it), and connect a coax from your BD Player to the DVD Coax In on your receiver. The sound quality in this case won't depend upon what your TV can do, but rather the simple limitations of the Coax cable (which I haven't researched what limitations it has). So if the cable were to admid Dolby Digital Plus HD, then your receiver would get that signal, and output it correctly. All the HDMI connections will remain the same.

Regardless of the setup, you should get sound through your receiver, and video through your TV.

Hope this solves your issues.
LL
post #2764 of 3829
For reference, these are my old jbl speakers:

Center channel: http://www.amazon.com/JBL-S-Center-S...pr_product_top

Sub: http://www.crutchfield.com/S-5HlSsZC...JBL-PB-10.html

Front towers: http://www.retrevo.com/s/JBL-ND310II...97bh537/t/1-2/

Rear speakers: http://www.retrevo.com/s/JBL-S36II-S...97ag621/t/1-2/

It's not the best setup, but I purchased it piece by piece when I was 18. I loved electronics, but didn't have much knowledge. I think I did ok back then.

I'll be bringing this set back up to the living room when the 82740/82840 makes it to the house (haven't purchased yet). Right now they're downstairs with the 55ST30. We've never had a problem with them at all. Never had a problem with the RM510 either, but they're much more compact and easier to hide. The Denons are pure garbage lol. At like -10db we can barely discern voices, and we keep having to turn the volume up and down when our toddler is asleep, because we can't hear voices, but then all of the sudden the volume will be loud for a second when some action occurs. I'm gonna match them with the JVC receiver and use them as computer speakers for laptop, just for listening to music while working lol.

I'll match the Polk RM510 with the Denon receiver and put them downstairs with the 55ST30. Hopefully it's the speakers' fault and not the receiver's, and the should will be passable. Bringing my trusty yamaha back upstairs, even if it doesn't have HDMI 1.4a.
post #2765 of 3829
lol found the Denon set I'm talking about:

http://www.amazon.com/Denon-DHT-391X.../dp/B003QP3M92

Utter, pure, garbage. But hey it has awesome reviews, right? 110w per channel my ass...

Edit: OK, I guess it's not so bad, but it's best paired in a small room with a small TV, and you'll have to put it at around -15 for quiet but audible. Whereas on my other system, I'd have to put it at -45 to be quiet but audible (whenever toddler is in bed). Pump it to -10 and the speakers start suffering.
post #2766 of 3829
I have questions about which glasses work with a 82840/82740.

I have 2 pairs of rechargeable Panasonic glasses (that came with Avatar 3D), and the other day I gave my boss 2 pairs of Samsung glasses (that came with Shrek 1-4 and Megamind).

Would any of these glasses work with the Mitsubishi DLPs? Since I have a 55ST30, wonder if I could use the panasonic glasses for both displays. If none of these work, do you guys have any recommendation on glasses I could purchase? I'd need to have 4-5 pairs of glasses.

Any help is greatly appreciated.
post #2767 of 3829
Quote:
Originally Posted by jromankvcc View Post

I have questions about which glasses work with a 82840/82740.

I have 2 pairs of rechargeable Panasonic glasses (that came with Avatar 3D), and the other day I gave my boss 2 pairs of Samsung glasses (that came with Shrek 1-4 and Megamind).

Would any of these glasses work with the Mitsubishi DLPs? Since I have a 55ST30, wonder if I could use the panasonic glasses for both displays. If none of these work, do you guys have any recommendation on glasses I could purchase? I'd need to have 4-5 pairs of glasses.

Any help is greatly appreciated.

The Panasonic glasses work on the Mitsubsihi such as you are considering with the internal IR emitter. The Samsung will not work with the internal emitter but will work the old external emitter that was sold with the 3D Starter Kit for the older models.
post #2768 of 3829
Quote:
Originally Posted by jromankvcc View Post

OK, I'm hoping this helps. Took me a while to get it all set to where I think you should be good to go.

I've tried to attach image connections.jpeg. It's my first time attaching anything, so I may mess up.

I checked your receiver, your TV, and your remote.

You need to connect any 3d sources to your TV directly, not through the AVR, though I think you've already understood that, so this may be a moot point. Connect any non 3D sources directly to your receiver through HDMI. HDMI is going to provide you with the best sound.

As far as I know, there are very few 3D players with dual hdmi. I've found the Panasonic BDT500 ($300-$350) that just came out, the BDT310 $250 (though can find cheaper, for about $150 probably), from last year, and the oppo95 which is like $500 (and universal, I believe). So if you're looking into returning your bluray player, check if they have one of these. There are others, I just haven't researched them long enough.

Most TVs I've had used Optical cable as the audio output. The Mitsubishi DLPs have coaxial instead. Remember the link I provided you yesterday. I think it's like $5, so it shouldn't break the bank. I don't know the limitations of coax, but I know it also depends on the limitations of the TV. If the TV cannot output Dolby Digital, then you won't be able to get dolby digital on your receiver in this way. I don't own the 82840 YET, so I'm not sure of its capabilities. Somebody may be able to help us on this.

For the time being, plug that coax cable to the back of your TV, on the "Digital Audio Output" and to the "CD IN Coax Input" in your receiver. When looking at the back of it, I think it's all the way to the left, almost at the bottom. There should be an optical input right next to it.

On your pioneer remote, you'll have to tap the CD source button to have the audio pass through to the speakers. And you'll have to change the input on the TV to whichever source you're using.

In the end, I believe you'll have 3 HDMI going to your TV, and 1 Coaxial coming out of it. The 3 HDMI should be: 1) Receiver (I don't know if you have other things connected to the receiver that would pass through to the TV through HDMI), 2) 3D BluRay Player, 3) HD DVR with 3D capabilities.

We still have to figure out if there's something wrong with your DVR. BUT if you plug your system THIS way, you can call back to DirecTV and tell them that you've taken the receiver out of the equation, and if you still don't see that list of channels, they need to do something in their end, because it's no longer your AVR's fault. Also, like I suggested, try switching the DVR boxes one night just to test if her box has something that yours doesnt.

Are there other options? yup, one more, but let's try this one first. The other option requires you connect a coax from your DVR to your receiver under CD Coax In (instead of connecting the TV to it), and connect a coax from your BD Player to the DVD Coax In on your receiver. The sound quality in this case won't depend upon what your TV can do, but rather the simple limitations of the Coax cable (which I haven't researched what limitations it has). So if the cable were to admid Dolby Digital Plus HD, then your receiver would get that signal, and output it correctly. All the HDMI connections will remain the same.

Regardless of the setup, you should get sound through your receiver, and video through your TV.

Hope this solves your issues.

1. The current Mitsubishi TVs accept Dolby Digital 5.1 via HDMI and will pass that out to an AVR via the Coaxial Digital Audio Output. As a matter of fact, if the AVR does not accept HDMI, then Dolby Digital 5.1 or DTS 5.1 or analog 7.1 is the best it can do anyway so it would be easier just to connect HDMI to the TV and TV Coaxial out to AVR. You would not need to change inputs on the AVR, just on the TV.

2. There is no difference in sound between Coaxial digital Dobly Digital 5.1 and Optical digital Dolby Digital. Is is a matter of correct shielding in the internal circuits and which is less expensive to install. But a digial signal is a digial signal and there is no real one is better than another type of connector as long as the signal remains digital.
post #2769 of 3829
I would appreciate it if someone could give me calibration inumbers for my initial setup.
I will not be using 3-d so I am not interested in that. I just want a good picture.

Thanks!
post #2770 of 3829
I ordered Both of those cables you linked to on Amazon. At least I will have them to figure it all out.

I have been reading this thread from page one and am currently up to page 84. missed your last rerply I just leave my computer on and this thread on the page I left off on, when I am at the computer I have to look at my email to see if a current post was posted.
As far as the glasses, the 82840 has the emitter built in, I made hhgregg toss in 2 pairs of the Expand 103's. After sifting through this entire thread I think some others will work with their own emitters, the expand 104's asre the rechargable edition that came out later.
I did not pay alot of attention to all the glasses info since I just plan on buying 4 more pairs of the same I got when buying the TV.

I should have those 2 cables on Wednesday from Amazon and will reread your posts to me on them both.
Thanks again.
post #2771 of 3829
never owned a dlp before and was worried about the supposed disadvantages of them, but saw a 3 year old 73" set in person this weekend and thought it looked very nice. Seemed like a beautiful picture, so I decided to order an 82" for the bonus room.

My question, and I hate to ask something that has been asked and answered, but most of the answers are pretty techy - if I want to order say two pairs of 3d glasses for the 82740, what are the best two options and anyone suggest the best place to buy them fromonline?
post #2772 of 3829
Quote:
Originally Posted by GEP View Post

1. The current Mitsubishi TVs accept Dolby Digital 5.1 via HDMI and will pass that out to an AVR via the Coaxial Digital Audio Output. As a matter of fact, if the AVR does not accept HDMI, then Dolby Digital 5.1 or DTS 5.1 or analog 7.1 is the best it can do anyway so it would be easier just to connect HDMI to the TV and TV Coaxial out to AVR. You would not need to change inputs on the AVR, just on the TV.

2. There is no difference in sound between Coaxial digital Dobly Digital 5.1 and Optical digital Dolby Digital. Is is a matter of correct shielding in the internal circuits and which is less expensive to install. But a digial signal is a digial signal and there is no real one is better than another type of connector as long as the signal remains digital.

GEP

As I read the manual and from the one trial, I did; the digital out is NOT a pass thru. It only outputs signals from the internal tuner.
post #2773 of 3829
Quote:
Originally Posted by Volfo View Post

never owned a dlp before and was worried about the supposed disadvantages of them, but saw a 3 year old 73" set in person this weekend and thought it looked very nice. Seemed like a beautiful picture, so I decided to order an 82" for the bonus room.

My question, and I hate to ask something that has been asked and answered, but most of the answers are pretty techy - if I want to order say two pairs of 3d glasses for the 82740, what are the best two options and anyone suggest the best place to buy them fromonline?

I think your best bet would be to order the Xpand 103's. Everyone seems to recommend those more than any other pair. I just ordered a couple for my Samsung DLP at tech4less.com. They were the cheapest I could find.
post #2774 of 3829
The xpand 103s use dlp-link as opposed to the internal emitter, correct?

Is there any picture quality difference depending on the type of signal you're sending?

For example, the new 742/842 line adds BT glasses compatibility (don't know if that's for the new BT Panasonic glasses, or for the Samsung BT glasses), so there will be 3 emitters

1) DLP-LINK
2) Internal Emitter
3) BT

I read in a post that the dlp-link signal turns the screen greenish to provide "the best 3d experience". But that's what I've read; I don't know the reality. Wondering if I should just purchase 4 more panasonic glasses, that way I can have 6 for both the upstairs and the downstairs. Then comes another question, maybe out of curiousity. What happens when you have two 3D TVs, with the same signal, on at the same time? I doubt this will ever happen, but was just curious
post #2775 of 3829
I just bought the 82840 and got 2 pairs of the XPAND 3DG-X103 glasses tossed in.

They come without a emitter and work directly with the internal one the 82840 has.

There is another one thats "universal" and one that comes with an emitter. Not sure of those model numbers.

I plan on buying 2 more pairs to have 4 sitting around.

I havent researched what the 2012 Mits TV's use, I went with the 2011 82840 to save a few hundred bucks.
post #2776 of 3829
Finally pulled the trigger.

Ended going with the 82740.

Got my wife pissed when I bought her a laptop (her charger broke for the 5th time, and she's missing a bunch of keys in the keyboard), and she started talking about just using the 50" plasma. Got her back into the nice side by getting her a sewing machine, and going for the 82740 instead to offset the costs. She'll flip when she starts getting boxes of everything I purchased with the TV rofl...audio cables, banana plugs, power surge protectors, audio component stand, self-calibration Disc, etc

Also purchased a BDT310 from Adorama since my receiver doesn't have 1.4a/3D.

CSR said the pana glasses are hit or miss but should work. I believe they should work. I'll test and then purchase more. I'm guessing mix and match is probably not a good idea.

Anybody know how to make Nvidia 3D enhancements work? I believe they were supposed to be compatible with all Mitsubishi 3D DLPs?
post #2777 of 3829
Congratulations, that's the one I have and I love it. I know you've been asking a lot of questions and hopefully we were able to help?
post #2778 of 3829
well I got my 3rd 82740 and sorry to say it has the same buzzing noise as the 2nd one. Perhaps my ears are just ultra-sensitive, but my wife can hear it as well (though not as blatently as I can). So, I am sending it back again for a refund and probably going with the 70" Sharp LED. I never thought of unwanted noises as a deal-breaker because I've never had it with any TV I've ever owned, but 3 straight TVs with noises cannot be tolerated. Luckily, working with Paul's TV was a pleasure - I don't think it's their fault that the units I received were flawed. Thanks for those of you on here that helped me with info.
post #2779 of 3829
Got my 73740 2 days ago, coming from a 52" Samsung LCD, and the family and I love it!
Interesting that mfg date is Jan 2012.

And yes, the picture is great, used Disney wow disc to do a basic calibration and really has the pop factor. Couldn't be happier, thanks to this community I didn't blow 3k on a plasma. Thankfully I went with the dlp and saved a boatload of money....
post #2780 of 3829
Quote:
Originally Posted by NateDoggg View Post

well I got my 3rd 82740 and sorry to say it has the same buzzing noise as the 2nd one. Perhaps my ears are just ultra-sensitive, but my wife can hear it as well (though not as blatently as I can). So, I am sending it back again for a refund and probably going with the 70" Sharp LED. I never thought of unwanted noises as a deal-breaker because I've never had it with any TV I've ever owned, but 3 straight TVs with noises cannot be tolerated. Luckily, working with Paul's TV was a pleasure - I don't think it's their fault that the units I received were flawed. Thanks for those of you on here that helped me with info.

 

Yeah, my friend's wife wants to send theirs back because the dog can hear the fan wind up.


Edited by Augerhandle - 6/8/12 at 7:40pm
post #2781 of 3829
Quote:
Originally Posted by Augerhandle View Post

Yeah, my friend's wife want's to send theirs back because the dog can hear the fan wind up.

It can be a deal-breaker if you're sensative to unwanted noise...your friend's dog must have been really pissed at that noise for them to bail the TV.
Edited by NateDoggg - 6/8/12 at 5:16pm
post #2782 of 3829
Quote:
Originally Posted by NateDoggg View Post


It can be a deal-breaker if you're sensative to unwanted noise...your friend's dog must have been really pissed at that noise for them to bail the TV.

No, the dog just perked her ears up and stared at the TV for a minute.   The wife tried to use that as an excuse ("it bothers the dog"), but they'll keep the TV.

post #2783 of 3829
After much delay and family detours, I'm back in pursuit to buy the 92840. I was able to find a great deal online, but I wanted to ensure it was a reliable dealer. They are call LowPriceLine. Anyone familiar or heard of them? I will get my warranty through Costco where I'm a member.

I also have a few other questions:

Is the WD-92840 HDMI 1.4 rated?
How is HD video streamed to this behemoth? Is is clear, subpar (with internet connection being 35Mbps or more)?
Any input lag with gaming? I only saw one response to this so far, so I was hoping for more input (no pun intended).
Has anyone used it as a monitor for their PC, laptop or tablet?
Is there an Android app for the TV?
post #2784 of 3829
Quote:
Originally Posted by enthuzist View Post

After much delay and family detours, I'm back in pursuit to buy the 92840. I was able to find a great deal online, but I wanted to ensure it was a reliable dealer. They are call LowPriceLine. Anyone familiar or heard of them? I will get my warranty through Costco where I'm a member.
I also have a few other questions:
Is the WD-92840 HDMI 1.4 rated?
How is HD video streamed to this behemoth? Is is clear, subpar (with internet connection being 35Mbps or more)?
Any input lag with gaming? I only saw one response to this so far, so I was hoping for more input (no pun intended).
Has anyone used it as a monitor for their PC, laptop or tablet?
Is there an Android app for the TV?

They are not listed in the Authorized Retailer List, http://www.mitsubishi-tv.com/locator/online#unauthorized and I would think that the price would give it away. If it seems to good to be true, it usually is. Sorry.
post #2785 of 3829
Quote:
Originally Posted by enthuzist View Post

After much delay and family detours, I'm back in pursuit to buy the 92840. I was able to find a great deal online, but I wanted to ensure it was a reliable dealer. They are call LowPriceLine. Anyone familiar or heard of them? I will get my warranty through Costco where I'm a member.
...

This company is based in Jakarta so I'm not sure how easy it would be to solve any disputes? Probably kind of hard...
post #2786 of 3829
Yes, I will not take the chance and keep searching. Hopefully there will be some very good 4th of July bargains.
post #2787 of 3829
Quote:
Originally Posted by enthuzist View Post

Yes, I will not take the chance and keep searching. Hopefully there will be some very good 4th of July bargains.

I stopped researching that site at "Jakarta." I keep going back and forth between the 82" and the 92". If the 92 gets below $2500, I'll have to pull the trigger and take my chances with the wife after the fact. Happy hunting.
post #2788 of 3829
Ok, finally about to pull the trigger on the WS-82740. When it comes to stand height, would 13-14 inches be about perfect? Or a little higher? That Ikea http://www.amazon.com/Ikea-Lack-LCD-Plasma-Stand/dp/B00572FGSC/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_nC?ie=UTF8&colid=QQO4HU9UZPZ8&coliid=I2VZK02SDGDOEY stand is 13 something inches, I know it's been mentioned in this thread. My issue with that one is I'm not sure how tall the shelf is. It looks like it probably wouldn't be tall enough to fit a receiver. I need to fit a receiver, center speaker, Xbox 360, blu ray player, and DirecTV receiver. I know I can fit that in most stands, but on the Ikea I'm afraid I'll have nowhere to put my receiver. Also looking at this one http://www.amazon.com/OmniMount-Echo-63-Inch-Video-Table/dp/B0015PRC9G/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_nC?ie=UTF8&colid=QQO4HU9UZPZ8&coliid=I1E2MUBX31IC5O which is 17" high. I'm sure that would have plenty of room but not sure if it's too high. I really hate looking up at a TV and want to be centered for the "sweet spot" anyway.

Any thoughts? Or other stand recommendations? I'm not looking to spend a whole lot on a stand.
post #2789 of 3829
post #2790 of 3829
Quote:
Originally Posted by lujan View Post

This is what I went with but it costs more than you're looking for:
http://www.amazon.com/Tech-Craft-MD73-Plasma-Glass-Finish/dp/B001THA58U/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1339456465&sr=8-1

Thanks. I have two options, 17 inches or 13 inches. Based on your 16 inch stand, which would you go for? Would you rather it be a bit lower than 16 inches or is 16-17 just right? After some furious searching since I made that post I believe those will be my only two options.
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:
  Return Home
  Back to Forum: Rear Projection Units
AVS › AVS Forum › Display Devices › Rear Projection Units › 2011 Mitsubishi 3D DLP Owners Thread (740/840 series)