2011 Mitsubishi 3D DLP Owners Thread (740/840 series) - Page 11

I had a little bowing in at the top, but going through the service menus I could correct it. I did have to do the 16 point correction first though, before I did the 4:3.

My replacement 73740 (replacing a 62525) is showing up on Friday. I am hoping the delivery goes smoothly since they are going to have to carry it down to my basement.

Hello everyone! I've been looking at the new WD-73840 and after reading everything i'm a little worried. All this talk about the geometry being all messed up and not being able to fix it and having to return the set seems like alot of hassle. Is it worth spending the 2k on a tv set that may have issues like everyone is reporting? If you have the wd-73840 please let me know. I'm thinking of buying it by the end of the week. The tv they had out on display looked wonderful but i wonder how much they had to do, to get it that way. Thanks for the help!

Hi Wolfpack,

I asked the same question a page or two ago, but didn't really receive a response. Since then I have purchased the X103, while continuing to do my research.

Here is what I have figured out so far, but this is far from authoritative:

1. Up to and including the 2010 models (738/838), Mitsubishi used the same codes as Samsung TVs. With the 2011 models (740/840), they have switched to the Panasonic codes. Therefore, any pair of IR glasses that claim they are working with Samsung/Mitsubishi will work with the 2010 models but not with the 2011 models (assuming you use the internal IR emitter, you can always buy an external emitter to work whichever glass you want).

2. In addition, Mitsubishi seems to continue to support the DLP Link connections, so any DLP Link glasses should also work with the 740/840 series (note I have not tried this, but I see the options in the menus as well as in some documentation).

3. Other than the X103 models, I have not been able to find any glasses that claim Mitsubishi 2011 compatibility yet. There are some Panasonic glasses which probably should work, but I haven't tried them and they are significantly more expensive than the X103s.

4. With the X103 models, you get to choose which mode you want, you need to choose the Panasonic mode which is 4 blinks.

That's all I have for now.

Try it again with Film Mode off.

Scaling tests will always look awful with Geometry correction on. I suggest turning it off in the Service Menu.. however that is done on the 2011 and see if the Geometry is tolerable with it off. I have a 2009 and my sole source these days is HTPC... now that is something that really does not get along with Geo correction. My set has decent geometry without correction. It was slightly better with the first engine. In any case the very minor inprovement provided by Geometry correction was not worth the damage to image quality. As far as I am concerned Geometry correction at best is at band-aid.

It's not great I spent a long time in the service menu and it's acceptable now but nowhere near ideal.

Thanks for the info Tuxter.
I actually called Xpand today and they mentioned the X-103 glasses. Xpand
reccomends the (3DG-X103) for the Mits. built in emitter. They indicated that
the (X-103) model is a universal model with an external emitter. Not sure which 103's you picked up?
Also, before years end, they expect to have the X-104's out. These will be a universal - rechargeable model. It never ends.
Thanks again.

I bought the universal model. I figured I might get a chance to use in other settings as well (i.e., with another TV). Mitsubishi's user guide mentions both as compatible, and indeed the universal model works perfectly fine with the TV without the need for an external emitter. I didn't see a price advantage to getting the Mitsubishi only model.

I personally prefer a the model using batteries vs. rechargables. They use pretty standard CR2032 batteries that you can pick for less than a dollar on the Internet, and I have enough chargers in the house to deal with already, don't want another one for glasses that I need to find a place for.

Thanks to you both for suggestions. I'll try both in the next couple of days and report back to the board if things get any better.

I just ordered a WD-73840! It should be delivered this friday! I hope it looks as good as the one on display. I absolutely loved the way this tv looks. Wish me luck.

How much did you pay?

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/annou...php?f=63&a=119

I am on the fence with either getting the 738 or 740 series. What feature or features on the 740 series make it that much more appealing vs. the 738 series?

You can compare features here. http://www.mitsubishi-tv.com/product/WD73740

Click the "compare" tab at the bottom of the page.

One down side to the 740 is that it has only one component input compared to two on the 738. I actually ordered the 738 so I could hook up my Wii and a VCR, but was sent the 740 instead. Fortunately, I was able to attach the VCR to the antenna input since I have a satellite box with an HDMI output.

Could someone PM the names of reputable online vendors that offer the best pricing. Looking at the 73840.

I don't have the WOW test, but I have some test images saved on my PS3, which is hooked up via HDMI.

It has a pixel by pixel image like the one you described, which should look like a uniform gray unless you get right up close.

Mine does the same thing as your image. I have film mode turned off and I have not done any geometry calibration yet.

I had used the same image on a 1080p Sony LCD and it was fine when I had the Sony set up in "pixel by pixel" mode (the name could be wrong).

I am wondering if this is the result of the wobulation that 1080p DLP chips use to generate a 1080p image.

I am going to do some googling to see if this can be corrected.

First of all, let me thank every single Mitsubishi DLP owner in this forum for their participation here. Without their knowledge, insight, and experience I never would have taken the leap of faith to buy one of these new DLP TVs.

Second, let me stress that everything that follows is strictly my own opinion & should not be construed as irrefutable truths & my personal experiences only echo what is true here in my own little corner of the world. What may or may not be true in your little corner of the world may very well be vastly different & to be honest, I fully expect that it will be.

I originally had my experience written out in detail outlining my experiences, but then I realized you all probably don't want to read all that so I'll try to just line out the important bits:

1. We bought the WD-73840 bundle from ShopNBC during their Mitsubishi world launch event. Coming from an old standard definition 32" Philips-Magnavox CRT TV with no AV equipment at all put us in a position that this would be the best, easiest way to improve our sound and visual quality in one fell swoop.

2. The new TV was delivered early & in pristine condition. Even the shipping box was in perfect condition. I've got wild-irrational-crazy-man OCD when it comes to things like this so believe me when I say I am an expert in this regard.

3. Given the stories on this forum (and in this very thread) about geometry problems I was very worrried about encountering any as my aforementioned OCD would never allow me to derive any pleasure from this TV. Fortunately, my neurotic fears were misplaced as the 16:9 and 4:3 modes have perfect geometry. Well, it's probably not perfect, but perfect to my eyes & I can pick out any display imperfections at 50 paces.

4. Picture quality was stunning. Whites were a little hot out of the box, but the OSD provided more than enough power and versatility to tame them to taste. 3D was an enjoyable experience (have only watched one 3D movie so far) and high-def has been a treat. I was very thankful my cable company doesn't over-compress their channels when I happened to stumble across The Scorpion King being shown on cable the other night. Not the best movie overall, but the desert scenery was breath-taking & gave Kelly Hu the perfect opportunity to show the world she can rock a chain mail bikini. I was worried about how DLP would stand up to plasma & LED/LCD and this set easily matched visually every TV we saw in the big box stores while we were shopping around.

5. Glare. Yeah, there's some daytime glare from windows, but the light is diffused when it hits the screen. It sure beats the razor-sharp reflections off of a glass CRT tube like the one we're coming from. The diffusion makes it rather easy for the brain to tune it out in a few minutes. Of course, when the sun goes down that's when this techology really shines.

6. Sound. I don't know how they work their magic with that 16-speaker soundbar. I know a full dedicated surround sound setup would yield better sound and imaging, but we watched Rescue Me the other night & the scene at Colleen's wedding reception had me looking constantly at our fireplace that's on the left wall of the room because it sounded like there were people talking in the fireplace complete with glasses tinkling together.

7. Warm-up time. Yes, when you turn on the TV there is a warm-up time, but I knew this going in. The P in DLP stands for Projector & projectors always need warm-up time. On a related note, when I turn off the set I can't hear any fan noise at all (or when it's on for that matter). I know there's supposed to be a fan running in there to help cool down the bulb, but no noise here.

Overall, I'm extremely pleased with this TV and it has managed to impress me every single day I've owned it thus far. This is a serious statement coming from me. I am usually very picky regarding everything electronics & computers and can generally find flaws in nearly everything. I don't even regret not going larger nor do I think I ever will. We've got this in a 12 ft x 20 ft room and it dominates the 12 ft wall it's on almost overpowering the room. The little woman reminds me how it's too big for the room at every opportunity, but as soon as the TV turns on she gets quiet & all of a sudden it's not too big at all.

I've owned this TV about 10 days at this point and wanted to wait until I had plenty of time with the unit before sharing my thoughts. All right! All right! You've got me...this is the first time I was able to tear myself away from my TV long enough to write this.

Again, thank you to everyone whose experience helped my research end with the purchase of this beautiful TV. I'm lovin' it.

Guys, Ive been eyeing the new 740 series but found an amazing price on a 738 series ($1200 vs $1800, 50% less). Unsure if I should save some moola or go all out. I know the screen changes (glossy vs matte) from 738 to 740 and the 3D is built in, anything else major between the two?

I think this best sums it up - posted above just last night:

Mitsu's site is not very informative. In fact, it shows the 73738 having MORE features, and mentions nothing about the new screen

If I understand this correctly, the 2011 versions 740 & 840 with internal emitter for the 3D, one has to buy the Panasonic glasses?

XPand EX103 or X103 are listed on the Mits web site.

You can use either the newer Panasonic protocol glasses (Xpand 103) or the older Samsung protocol glasses (Xpand 102).

50% off would be $900

I did some more poking around with this, and found that if you renamed the input that the PS3 is connected to, it gives you different format options (PC1080p Standard and PC1080p Reduce). Unfortunately, this gets rid of the odd moire patterns but shrinks the image down significantly, and it doesn't map pixels 1:1 (it looks like uniform gray but if you get up close and look, it looks like a "mush" of gray pixels).

I don't think that this TV can do perfect 1:1 pixel mapping.

The 740 series do not have the glossy screen, that's the 840 series.

It's strange the Mitsu changed the IR format for 2011, I wonder why????