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2011 Mitsubishi 3D DLP Owners Thread (740/840 series) - Page 108

post #3211 of 3948
so will it revert to my custom geo settings when 3d is disabled?
post #3212 of 3948
Quote:
Originally Posted by ipoop2much View Post

so will it revert to my custom geo settings when 3d is disabled?

Yes, and the only time you might miss pixel to pixel mapping is if you use it as a computer monitor and there are small font sizes.
post #3213 of 3948
Quote:
Originally Posted by yadfgp View Post

Not exactly the answer to your question, but, why not just get the newer set, the WD-73742 when it can be had for the same price?

That WD-73742 is showing up for $1600, that's $1600 more. Where do you see that it is the same price?
Is there a difference other than sound between the 2 TVs?

Called Paul's they said since I am soo far out of the delivery company's way it would cost an extra $650 for saturday delivery. Walt's doesn't even do Sat delivery frown.gif

I called Tigerdirect and they gave me the number to their delivery company. Called them up and they said they subcontract it out where I live and that most likely the subcontractor will work with me... Dunno what this really means?
post #3214 of 3948
Quote:
Originally Posted by maxse View Post

Called them up and they said they subcontract it out where I live and that most likely the subcontractor will work with me... Dunno what this really means?

They said the same thing to me when I ordered mine.
I couldn't be happier with the delivery.
They sent two guys and delivered the tv to my third floor apartment.
post #3215 of 3948
Just ordered my 82840 and can't wait to get it! My WD-62725 finally developed a glitch in the picture. I've been waiting for it to happen so I could get a bigger set. smile.gif

I've owned the 62" for at least 7 years. Not ONE service call! It even has the ORIGINAL lamp in it! Obviously I don't use the set every day. It's in a dedicated media room and primarily used to watch movies and some PS3 gaming. I was thinking that DLP was kind of dead since only one manufacturer was left and I haven't looked at buying a set since 7 years ago. Most of the box stores seem to want to be out of the DLP business. If they even have any in the store, they are relegated to some far corner with discount stickers on them.

I started shopping around and the Sharp 80 inch LCD's caught my eye initially until I started to really look at the PQ and I hated what I saw. I was seeing halos, motion problems, terrible pixelization and the dreaded "soap opera effect" which I had never heard of until I saw it mentioned in the forums. I know there are tweaks and calibrations you can do to help eliminate some of the problems, but I just wasn't happy with the picture. Then, I started thinking about the fact that I really LOVED my old TV. Aside from the current picture glitch, I wouldn't even be shopping for a set.

So, I head over to Ed's TV in Hatfield, Pa where I bought my original DLP. They actually had them on display. Better yet, they had a 92" in a dedicated viewing room. I was asking about the state of DLP. They said that Mitsu is the only game now and that it is a very small part of their overall business. Almost like a "hobby" product line and they really are focusing on really HUGE commercial applications, sports stadiums, etc. While standing there chatting, the PQ on the 92" was just blowing me away. No halos, little to no motion problems, definitely no SOE at all. I felt like I was seeing a film the way it was supposed to look. I'd love to get a 92", but it would never get into the basement, so I ordered the 82". Also, keep in mind that I'll rarely be watching TV on this. It's for movies primarily. A room with no windows, total light control, no glare issues, etc.

I've looked over the pricing threads, the killer deals that people were getting. I've also seen the threads where people had to get 2 or 3 TV's before getting one that wasn't damaged, etc. I know some guys will do anything to save a nickel, but in the end, I ordered from the local privately-owned small-business dealer (Ed's TV). Yes, I paid $200-300 more for the set, but for me, it's well worth it that...

1) I've met the owner of the store, they have been in business for DECADES
2) It will be delivered in an Ed's TV truck
3) It will be delivered by Ed's employees who deliver and set up TV's all day every day
4) They will set it up on the stand, make connections, and verify that it functions correctly, no pressure for me to hurry up and do it so the shipper can leave
5) *IF* there was an issue with the set, it will just go right back on the truck and they will bring another. No shipping claims, no third parties, etc.
6) They will take my old 62" set away and dispose of it

Please support your local dealers if possible even if the cost is a little higher. They truly deserve your business!

I can't wait for the new set to arrive! smile.gif
post #3216 of 3948
Quote:
Originally Posted by 69mach1-377 View Post

double face palm...I doubt that it is.
Compared to tv speakers maybe, but not to other receivers IMHO.

smiley face = sarcasm. I guess I should have made it more obvious.
post #3217 of 3948
rolleyes.gif = Sarcasm
biggrin.gif = Grinning
post #3218 of 3948
Quote:
Originally Posted by ipoop2much View Post

so,i have my geometry as close to perfect as i can get so can someone explain the downside to losing 1:1 pixel mapping? i watched avatar on bd last night and it still looks fantastic,so whats the big deal? also what sharpness does everyone use,i have mine set to zero because thats what im used to coming from the sammy pn64d8000 plasma. also why does everyone prefer film mode off in picture+? sorry for all the bothersome questions!confused.gif btw,my tv is a wd-73840 if that helps.

anyone?
post #3219 of 3948
Since this thread is more active than the 73640 thread and the xx740 and xx840 are close enough... can anyone explain the Geometry and 1:1 pixel mapping a little better? I can get into something that reminds me of tweaking the convergence on my RP CRT HDTV but there's no lines to see (other than the outside edges IIRC). All I know is when I hit 0 after the service menu sequence my Geometry is off (bowed sides and top) and I have to set it back to factory. I try messing with in what reminds me of the convergence tweaking but I only end up making it worse. Any tips? The factor geometry seems slightly off somewhere around the top quarter of the screen, it's really only noticeable at the end of the movie with the scrolling text but I have to really look for it (hey I'm picky hehe).
Quote:
Originally Posted by ipoop2much View Post

so,i have my geometry as close to perfect as i can get so can someone explain the downside to losing 1:1 pixel mapping? i watched avatar on bd last night and it still looks fantastic,so whats the big deal?

Well when you lose 1:1 pixel mapping there will be some overscan which may or may not drive you nuts. 1:1 is more for using a PC with the TV but these days you can compensate for the overscan in the video card settings.
Edited by |Tch0rT| - 7/30/12 at 5:48pm
post #3220 of 3948
Quote:
Originally Posted by maxse View Post

That WD-73742 is showing up for $1600, that's $1600 more. Where do you see that it is the same price?
Is there a difference other than sound between the 2 TVs?
Called Paul's they said since I am soo far out of the delivery company's way it would cost an extra $650 for saturday delivery. Walt's doesn't even do Sat delivery frown.gif
I called Tigerdirect and they gave me the number to their delivery company. Called them up and they said they subcontract it out where I live and that most likely the subcontractor will work with me... Dunno what this really means?

Both Walt's and Amazon have the WD-73742 for about $1380 with free shipping. Computer Brain has it for a little bit more at about $1420 or so.

Just check out amazon.com
post #3221 of 3948
Quote:
Originally Posted by |Tch0rT| View Post

Since this thread is more active than the 73640 thread and the xx740 and xx840 are close enough... can anyone explain the Geometry and 1:1 pixel mapping a little better? I can get into something that reminds me of tweaking the convergence on my RP CRT HDTV but there's no lines to see (other than the outside edges IIRC). All I know is when I hit 0 after the service menu sequence my Geometry is off (bowed sides and top) and I have to set it back to factory. I try messing with in what reminds me of the convergence tweaking but I only end up making it worse. Any tips? The factor geometry seems slightly off somewhere around the top quarter of the screen, it's really only noticeable at the end of the movie with the scrolling text but I have to really look for it (hey I'm picky hehe).
Well when you lose 1:1 pixel mapping there will be some overscan which may or may not drive you nuts. 1:1 is more for using a PC with the TV but these days you can compensate for the overscan in the video card settings.

ah,i see. so its not a problem/concern for me as i dont use my cpu on the set. thanks bro!smile.gif
post #3222 of 3948
Quote:
Originally Posted by ipoop2much View Post

ah,i see. so its not a problem/concern for me as i dont use my cpu on the set. thanks bro!smile.gif

maybe you missed my post
Quote:
Originally Posted by Augerhandle View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by ipoop2much View Post

so will it revert to my custom geo settings when 3d is disabled?

Yes, and the only time you might miss pixel to pixel mapping is if you use it as a computer monitor and there are small font sizes.
post #3223 of 3948
Quote:
Originally Posted by |Tch0rT| View Post

Since this thread is more active than the 73640 thread and the xx740 and xx840 are close enough... can anyone explain the Geometry and 1:1 pixel mapping a little better? I can get into something that reminds me of tweaking the convergence on my RP CRT HDTV but there's no lines to see (other than the outside edges IIRC). All I know is when I hit 0 after the service menu sequence my Geometry is off (bowed sides and top) and I have to set it back to factory. I try messing with in what reminds me of the convergence tweaking but I only end up making it worse. Any tips? The factor geometry seems slightly off somewhere around the top quarter of the screen, it's really only noticeable at the end of the movie with the scrolling text but I have to really look for it (hey I'm picky hehe).
Well when you lose 1:1 pixel mapping there will be some overscan which may or may not drive you nuts. 1:1 is more for using a PC with the TV but these days you can compensate for the overscan in the video card settings.

If you need to work on your geometry settings, go Menu 2457 then 0. Scroll down to Manual Geometry, Enter. You'll see that overscan rectangle. Use your left/right up/down keys to adjust the cursor. Then hit Fast Forward to advance to the next point. Adjust as many as you need to, then hit enter. One thing to know is if you go in to change one point or another, you must advance to the next point then hit enter for it to take effect. Hope I didn't make it to confusing.

To adjust other lines in the middle of the screen (4:3 bars etc.) Menu 2457 then 0 Select Manual Geometry. When you see that overscan rectangle push Video. This will show you the 4:3 bars. Push the Fast Forward button to cycle through 11 presets. When you find the best one, push Video to move on to 2.35 bars and other areas to adjust. Same procedure for the other bars. Video button to select other bars. Fast Forward to cycle through the presets. Then exit out. You're done.

You can really straighten things out if you need to.
post #3224 of 3948
Quote:
Originally Posted by Augerhandle View Post

maybe you missed my post

apologies redface.gif
post #3225 of 3948
thought i'd share my settings. i used the bluray calibration disk "digital video essentials:hd basics" im quite pleased with how it turned out,looks extremely accurate in both color and greyscale. note this is for night viewing. wd-73840

natural

contrast:48
bright:31
color:27
tint:31
sharpness:0
color temp:low
video noise:off
film mode:off

perfectcolor
magenta:40
red:45
yellow:35
green:41
cyan:44
blue:34

perfectint
magenta:32
red:32
yellow:31
green:37
cyan:24
blue:31
post #3226 of 3948
whats everyones preference on lamp energy? im using bright right now.
post #3227 of 3948
Quote:
Originally Posted by ipoop2much View Post

whats everyones preference on lamp energy? im using bright right now.
I like the look of the bright setting, but the difference is pretty subtle on mine. I'll probably just keep it on low. Can probably expect at least 5 or 6000 useable hours on the low setting. Not sure how much shorter bulb life would be on the high setting.
post #3228 of 3948
Quote:
Originally Posted by g4s View Post

I like the look of the bright setting, but the difference is pretty subtle on mine. I'll probably just keep it on low. Can probably expect at least 5 or 6000 useable hours on the low setting. Not sure how much shorter bulb life would be on the high setting.

I like the look of the "bright" setting as well and have used the same lamp for years (on other DLPs) so I don't think it makes that much of a difference (unless maybe you run the TV all day and every day)?
post #3229 of 3948
Quote:
Originally Posted by lujan View Post

I like the look of the "bright" setting as well and have used the same lamp for years (on other DLPs) so I don't think it makes that much of a difference (unless maybe you run the TV all day and every day)?
Yeah. The TV's here get a lot of use. Our 73C9 is about 2 years 9 months old and has over 10,000 hours on it. This new one will get a lot of hours too.
post #3230 of 3948
Bright..Measurement of lamberts/foot was over double on my set when on bright compared to low.. 21 to 43 something.
post #3231 of 3948
Quote:
Originally Posted by Augerhandle View Post

It's a lenticular screen. It's purpose is to direct light that would normally be wasted towards the floor and ceiling forward towards the viewer. If one focuses on the screen itself, it can appear as a veil over the picture, just as looking through a chainlink fence can. If one focuses on the picture, it goes away. That focusing is harder to do on an all white screen, as there is nothing to focus on. I hardly ever notice it, but I'm not a hockey fan.

If I look at other RP TV's I can notice this if I really look for it. On this one it's impossible to miss, instead of me looking for it, it looks for me unless the screen is pretty dark. It looks exactly like the matte screen in front of the lenticular screen to me. Maybe it just exacerbates the effect.
post #3232 of 3948
Quote:
Originally Posted by g4s View Post

If you need to work on your geometry settings, go Menu 2457 then 0. Scroll down to Manual Geometry, Enter. You'll see that overscan rectangle. Use your left/right up/down keys to adjust the cursor. Then hit Fast Forward to advance to the next point. Adjust as many as you need to, then hit enter. One thing to know is if you go in to change one point or another, you must advance to the next point then hit enter for it to take effect. Hope I didn't make it to confusing.
To adjust other lines in the middle of the screen (4:3 bars etc.) Menu 2457 then 0 Select Manual Geometry. When you see that overscan rectangle push Video. This will show you the 4:3 bars. Push the Fast Forward button to cycle through 11 presets. When you find the best one, push Video to move on to 2.35 bars and other areas to adjust. Same procedure for the other bars. Video button to select other bars. Fast Forward to cycle through the presets. Then exit out. You're done.
You can really straighten things out if you need to.

Thanks I'll try it out sometime. biggrin.gif
post #3233 of 3948
lovin this tv,especially at night with a bit of bias lighting behind it,makes the blacks so deep and inky!
post #3234 of 3948
Quote:
Originally Posted by Invarcade View Post

Is there a way to turn off the stupid message or auto-off timer "no signal, the TV turns off in one minute. press cancel key."? I have tried pressing sleep timer to turn off and looking in the menu for any power saving controls or whatever. I have everything working now, but in XBMC regular when watching a 3D movie in Total Media Theatre 3 I have to continuously press a button on the remote because that message keeps popping up and it is infuriating. Is there no way to disconnect the power saving settings part if it cant see the media which is clearly working fine?

Has anyone else run into this problem/fixed it? WD-73740 using an HTPC with Geforce GT520 HDMI out (1.4a compliant card and cable) directly to the TV. Audio passed through HDMI and out from the TV via digital coax to my receiver. My problem is, whenever I watch a 3d movie in native 3d mode (1080p 24hz) the TV displays it fine but ends up displaying the "No signal, TV will turn off in one minute" message and unless I press a button on the remote it does in fact turn off. I've tried 23hz & 24hz, passing audio directly to receiver instead of through HDMI, nothing fixes it. It seems to be directly related to the 3d resolution mode as the issue does not occur in regular 1080p. Likewise I have no issues playing back checkerboard/sbs content and manually specifying the 3d mode on the TV. Short of trying another computer with a completely different video card, I'm out of ideas. Anyone?
post #3235 of 3948
I may be looking at the 840 as a replacement for a Samsung 08 DLP. On those models they have a Just Scan format on HDMI that eliminated most overscan. Is there a similar setting on the 840 or is it all done in the Service menu?

How would the picture compare to my Samsung? I would have to imagine they made some improvements especially in the blacks area since 08.
post #3236 of 3948
Quote:
Originally Posted by jhferry View Post

I may be looking at the 840 as a replacement for a Samsung 08 DLP. On those models they have a Just Scan format on HDMI that eliminated most overscan. Is there a similar setting on the 840 or is it all done in the Service menu?
How would the picture compare to my Samsung? I would have to imagine they made some improvements especially in the blacks area since 08.
Not exactly. You have to enter the Service Menu and disable geometry correction. Just Scan is not intended to adjust overscan so much but to put the display in dot per dot mode. The amount of overscan on the Mits does not really change much wtih geometry correction off but you get pixel matching as with Just Scan. The 840 Clear Constrast screen sets provide a better image than the 72" A650 I have on permanent loan out to my kid brother, I never spent any time with an LED illuminated set.
post #3237 of 3948
Hello everybody.

New to this site and the proud new owner of a WD-92840.

I am really loving the picture on this television. Im going to pay for an ISF calibration in a few months to really get everything out of it.

Unboxing the TV. I am 6 feet tall.

post #3238 of 3948
Gosh that is a monster! It looks like all you need is your A/V setup and couch in the garage. smile.gif

We sit 6 1/2' away from our tv... yours would swallow us whole!

Enjoy!!!
post #3239 of 3948
Quote:
Originally Posted by snowman423 View Post

Hello everybody.
New to this site and the proud new owner of a WD-92840.
I am really loving the picture on this television. Im going to pay for an ISF calibration in a few months to really get everything out of it.
Unboxing the TV. I am 6 feet tall.

Welcome to forum and congrats on your new TV. wink.gif
post #3240 of 3948
Love'n my 82840!
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