2011 Mitsubishi 3D DLP Owners Thread (740/840 series) - Page 110

Does anyone know local sellers who still offer these sets in stores? That store had a mark on the screen he didn't know about told to check back later.

Your local is probably not the same as my local. http://www.mitsubishi-tv.com/locator

In store, all the Mitsus can look sort of washed out under those high florescent or vapor lights.... the LEDs have more brightness , but from experience I can tell you the mitsu will get plenty bright unless you have an overly bright room you are putting it in.... IMO it looks a lot better than LED because it's not so harsh.... DLPs are really an exceptional product... if LEDs were the same size and price ... Id still choose DLP

it's almost certainly not the bulb... they last at the very least 2500 hours plus in my experience... they just get dimmer at some point

I've used a replcement bulb on amazon for $43
http://www.amazon.com/Mitsubishi-915P061010-Lamp-DLP-TV/dp/B001F0H5S4

Mitsu recent cut the OEM bulb price to something like $80 last time I looked if you are a stickler


the 73640 for $500 is so much of a steal as to be suspicious, really really look at it carefully.
Edited by stmckin - 8/12/12 at 7:55pm

Here are a couple pictures of my geometry, after returning to the factory setting and then re-correcting the geometry manually. I just can't get the 4:3 vertical lines any straighter (see third picture). There are only so many choices, and this seemed to be the straightest one. The corners (last two pictures) are about as good as I could get them.







The first picture is from the Disney WOW disk to check "purity". The directions said something like "you may see a flat gray image..." and I said "REEEALLLLY?"

Now, none of this is really noticable when watching a movie, except for the vertical sides of an older 4:3 image, and that becomes less noticable as you watch the movie instead of the edges.

Is this something I should call Mitsubishi on? Is the screen out of position, and could it be adjusted by a technician, or is this just a case of "what you see is what you get"?

Just personal preference. I don't want anyone messing with my TV. Makes it feel like I got a used TV. Although, $500 is a sweet price. Almost sounds too sweet.

BrentBridge:

Adjusting the 4:3 bars or any area in the middle were the natural screen bowing occurs is the most difficult to adjust. Mainly the adjustments have the greatest affect around the perimeter of the screen's border. In the corner's, especially at the top corners, there is extra clamping to hold the screen which can cause more distortion: requiring more adjustment than the bottom corners. There is a warning in the Supplemental Owner's Guide on page 13 "Distortion in Computer Images Computer images may show distortion when viewed on the TV, e.g., lines that should be straight may appear slightly curved." This is a deceptively simple statement because this distortion (caused by the screen, not the image being projected) is always present, even pictures of humans, human faces, natural scenes, etc. but our brain and eyes can't see it on natural shapes. Pans in movies and video games will always have it but most will not notice and ignorance is bliss (one example, many can't see the lens distortion in point and shot camera pictures they take). Furthermore, any other distortions in the screen surface (slight waviness/ripples, etc.) will also bring additional distortions that geometry correction will not fix (that would be a reason to call). Rear Projection HDTV's are simply not as flat as true flat screen HDTV's like LCD and Plasma. To counter, there are those that claim their sets don't have any distortion some how and maybe they can chime in with additional information and more importantly pictures.

Here is one of my many posts shortly after getting my WD-92840 (posted on 8/17/11 #763 in the 92" Mitsubishi DLP @ CES!! Thread):

I've been using rear-projection HDTV's since 2000 and I know some in the AVS Forum community have been using them since SDTV. Screen sag/bowing/whatever has always been a part of it. If anyone wants a truly flat screen without over-scan, LCD/Plasma is the only way to go.
With DLP, geometry has come a long, long way in improvement. I shutter to remember the days of my CRT-based rear-projection set and having to adjust convergence AND geometry. With today's DLP sets, the image is very uniform and the screen is the only thing to adjust for. The 92", like the 73" I had seem to apply clamping/support in the upper corners in addition to whatever supports are around the screen's remaining perimeter. The additional support in the upper corners causes the image to appear to rise/curve up from the center on both sides. This can be minimized with geometry correction in the service menu (haven't done it myself). Also note that I believe the sagging is less than the 73" overall but appears to be the same general shape. I remember on the 73" that the menu really stood out and highlighted the issue as it was 1" or so way from the left edge at the bottom of the screen (where is should be), then it curved and touched the edge of the screen at the center. On the 92", Mits smartly put the menu in near the center, far way from any edges.
I personally would call the screen sag of the 92" typical of a rear-project DLP (or anything) and not a deal breaker if you know of DLP's limitation going in. Anyone not aware of rear-projection DLP screen bowing, rainbows, silk-screen, lamp changes, over-scan, not very black black levels, etc. at this point in time then any one of these factors could be a deal breaker for them I guess. <- I personally believe new buyers of rear-projection HDTV's need to be educated on all of these.

Don't buy a warranty from that store. Go to Costco.com and buy a Square Trade warranty. I paid around $100 for five years. If you're not a Costco member and don't want to be one, just go to Square Trade's website. It'll cost a little more, but still a good deal.

I bought an open-box Samsung DLP back in 2003 and it lasted until this year, so I guess I got lucky with that set.

We bought ours at Costco. Doesn't matter where you buy your TV. Even if you have to buy a Costco membership, you're still saving money. Great deal.

Thanks for the advice Wesley. I am perfectly willing to live with the TV as is (I had an old 2001 65" Mits rear projection I'm replacing), I'm just wondering if it is worse than most, or about normal. I'm assuming that if a technician couldn't physically adjust the screen, then there would only be minimal improvement available to the geometry by doing what I have been doing and only if they could do a better job than me (and they probably could). Does anyone know if the actual screen CAN be adjusted? If so, then I might call Mits, otherwise I'll probably just wait and have a calibration done between 100 - 200 hours and call it good.

Has anyone experienced the following:

The picture freezes no sound and then it starts to what i call to pixalate(sp) picture just breaks up throughout the screen, this lasts for a few seconds (seems like hours) then returns to normal. Sometimes it will repeat a few times during the evening and other times it will be just fine. This just started happening a few days ago and it doesn't happen often its intermittent.
My TV is an 82840 which i purchased this past Feb. and it's connected to DirecTv, (HR34-700) no AVR yet. First time i noticed it was during some bad weather so i didn't pay much attention, but then it happened when it was very clear. Happened twice last evening within 30 minutes then it was fine for the rest of the night.

I noticed that DTV did an FW update recently and i'm hoping that it's them and not the TV. Not sure if i should try and figure out what the cause or just call Mits. and report it..


I would appreciate any help.

Thanks


Fred

Odds are it's just your DirecTV. Since it's intermittent, it may be impossible to check a different source, but if you have something else to connect to the TV, that would be how you rule it out.

Thanks for the quick reply..
Trouble is the only thing i can use is my dvd player and that seems to work fine.

I checked the DTV forums and didn't see any similar complaints. Guess I'll just wait and see if it gets any worse.

Thanks again.

Fred

OH, it DTV for sure. It happens all the time to me. But, it's usually only one channel. My local NBC affiliate.

Actually, it was on NBC that i first noticed it. I'll see if it happens again tonite and i'll pay closer attention to what station.

Thanks

Fred

Good point. Physical adjustments are possible: loosening or tightening screws around the perimeter of the screen. Most rear projection sets have access holes on the sides that you can open by removing a screw to push the screen outward. With this, you would have to re-adjust the geometry of course.

To see the flexibility you are dealing with (screen and cabinet), simply take a hold of an upper corner and move it around with an image on the screen or better yet the geometry edge pattern.
Edited by Wesley Hester - 8/13/12 at 7:24pm

Like these?

mits gloves

Or these of you have the Diamond series?

diamond series

I tried it using the Mits gloves and it gave me a knockout picture!

Actually, I doubt whether I'm going to mess with the screen internally.

I recently been having an issue with my PS3 hdmi input on my 92840. Every so often the input "turns off" like if I was changing the a/v input and then comes back seconds later. It seems to happen every so often for the last couple days.

I rememeber reading somewhere in this thread that someone else was having a similar issue and I was wondering if there was a reason/fix for the issue?

So what do you do, just go to the Costco customer service desk for this or what?

Yeah, if you're not a member. But if you are, just look around the electronic department and you'll see the display for the warranties.

Okay. I'm a member btw.

It's on the Costco website, too. I ordered it online and they sent the documents in the mail. I bought my TV at HH Gregg, and they wanted over $300 for the warranty.

Found it...thanks. That is my other option $499 (4yrs ext.) from seller. I never had to use my ST warranty with my smaller purchases. It is freaking out my wife with such a large purchase. My last TV was bought from BB and I got a 6 yr extend warranty (which they no longer provide). I used it for a bad light engine. The tech came to my house and worked on it. Had to take it to their shop for final repairs/testing and brought it back and set it up...all under warranty. If ST is like this, then I would be very content with paying $100 for the same service.

So, I can get the geometry pretty decent, but certainly not perfect (especially the 4:3 vertical lines) without somehow physically adjusting the screen. But if you adjust the geometry, you lose 1:1 pixel mapping. So, what am I to do? I tried comparing the picture with the geometry corrected, and then again after clearing geometry correction and really couldn't notice a difference (besides the "smile" at the top sides of the 2.35:1 letterbox watching "Jaws").. Is there really be a noticable difference between corrected geometry and 1:1 pixel mapping sitting at normal viewing distance (about 8-9 feet with my 73" set)? The more I mess with this, the more confused I get about what I should do.

The geometry to me is the trickiest tweak to mess with. I tried it with my old/present DLP and it was a nightmare. I eventually gave up. I then had a service on the TV and the tech calibrated it while he was repairing the light engine. When he set it back up it was perfect...of course he didn't give me any details on how he managed to do it. As others have stated here, a professional calibration is good once the set is broken in. After that geometry should be great and only DIY lamp life cycle affected issues need to be addressed if you prefer. However if you figure it out, or anyone here has experience with it, please share, because I'm interested too.

Interesting. Does anyone know if a good calibration includes physically adjusting the screen to fix glaring geometry issues? This would certainly seem the way to go if so as it would preserve 1:1 pixel mapping as that seems to be prefereable... even if I can't tell the difference...

Per the list of techs here on AVS that will come out to do the work, yes. I don't have the link to the thread, but if you search for it you will be pleased. I have my local one to come and do it after my "break in" period. I will DIY it for now. There isn't anything wrong with having it ISF calibrated by a pro if it is that important to you and you get it right.

I don't normally use the Mits provided remote on my 92840 much. Recently I made a menu change that required the remote. Typically I keep the Mits remote in a black leather basket with other remotes. This time after using it, I left it on the table. Over a 3 day period the TV shutdown on its own twice. These appeared to be normal shutdows just not initiated by me. I was scratching my head. They occurred during marathon viewins sessions. I put the Mits remote back in the basket which does not allow any RF to get the sensor on the TV and I have not had a similar shutdown since. I believe the remote is randomly sending a power sequence. I saw similar behaviour last winter when the TV was new and I was using the Mits remote frequently.At the time I attributed it to CEC...

If you are getting random shutdowns you might want to shield the TV from the remote and see if the problem resolves.