2011 Mitsubishi 3D DLP Owners Thread (740/840 series) - Page 117

If there is something unusal between the DVDO unit and the TV, such as the DVDO requesting HDCP confirmation while the TV is turned off, this may cause the two unit block each other, unplugging TV and plugging it back in will fource a new handshake and possibly clear the block.

Using System Reset does not reset the TV to factory default. The only information lost would be the information you just adjusted before using System Reset and the current time.

For instance, if you just adjust the picture mode from Bright to Natual and then used System Reset, when the TV was turn back on, it might be on Bright again. However if you change to Natural and turn the TV off normally when you turn it back on it will still be on Natural. If at this time you use System Reset, it the next time it turns on, it should still be in Natural.

I would debug it down to which source is causing this problem, to do so connect only one input source to TV and see if it issue happen again, if it does then use different HDMI cable to see it happen with new HDMI cable.

I stand corrected :>)

I'm bit confused, Can anyone help me out who own's both and which one is better from below 3d glasses for 92840 .

1. 3ACTIVE® 3D Glasses http://www.dimensionaloptics.com/Product.aspx?l=00010001000100080000&p=A1S01264
2. Mitsubishi 3DGX103 XPAND 3D Glass http://www.amazon.com/Mitsubishi-3DGX103-XPAND-3D-Glass/dp/B005HFJFKO/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pdT1_nS_nC?ie=UTF8&colid=C2R5WJRIKXQP&coliid=IFOA2EVS30JHN

TIA

Only 1 input which is plugged in...dvdo....i will try different cable tonight to see if that might be the cause.

Has anyone experienced anything like this? And resolved the issue.

Alright, so I'm trying to make a decision between two tv's and I need some help. I was at HHGregg today and they had one WD-82840 left and then they will be completely sold out of them in my area. I can get the 82840, a really nice stand, three year warranty, delivery and have them put the stand together, or I can get a WD-82842 from Paul's for the same price.

Heres my dilemma. If I go with the 82842 from Paul's, it's brand new and of course is also the newest technology. If I go with last years 82840, I get all the stuff thrown in extra, BUT (and this is a big but) The WD-82840 they have at HHGreg has been factory refurbished, but is technically new now, seeing as since it's been refurbished and sent back, no one has owned it. I'm not sure how reliable the 82840 is, but I keep going back and forth as to why buying refurbished could be either a good or bad idea. Also, have they made any actual picture quality upgrades other than rf 3D glasses to warrant the increase in price to the 842 series?

Please let me know what you guys think. Thanks!

Sorry. One last thing. There's an option three. I could just buy either last years or this years Laservue TV as well. I've never seen either the L75-A94 or L75-A96 in person and wasn't sure if the Laservue is worth the extra money based on a picture quality standpoint. The guy at Paul's said it wasn't worth it, but at the same time, they don't sell Laservue's anymore. When I called Walt's, the guy said it's a huge improvement in PQ. Would like to get someone's opinon on that too. Thanks!

i would say better buy Darbee Darblet and put it on your 82842, you will be amaze by it result plus you will save lot money. I personally will consider 842 compare to 840 offer. for $100 you can get 4yrs warranty from costco and look for open box tv stand will you will get around 250.

Some refurbished items don't get full manufactures warranty...and might only get 90 days. I would check on the length of warranty to be sure you are getting a full year.

I've had my 82740 for a couple weeks now. I'm pretty much loving the picture from my Blu Ray player, but the 1080i from my DirectTV box (through my Yamaha receiver) isn't as sharp as I'd hoped.

Any advice on setting or adjustments I can make? I've started to consider returning it and replacing it with a 65" LED or Plasma, but I want to make sure I'm not making a big mistake. I do love the massive, theater-like quality the set provides.

Is the Darbee Darblet the answer?

I would say yes, DD will be excellent choice over pro to do calibration and you can use some settings posted here earlier in this thread.

He is getting additional 3 yrs warranty from seller itself, should not be the case. But his main concern is should he buy refurbished or 842 for the same price. IMO, 842 will be good choice but he will be putting 400 more ($100 costco warranty + TV stand 300) which not much difference compare to refurbished one and he will have brand new means everything is new whereas refurbished is not.

Don't know anything about the Darbee Darblet, but I'm a firm believer in running HDMI directly from the source to the TV. I read too many complaints about problems when creating another step in the HDMI transfer process by running a source HDMI through the receiver, and then to the TV. There are too many inconsistencies and incompatibilities, especially if 3D is involved. Personally I run all high-speed HDMI from the source direct to the TV, and digital audio direct from the source to the receiver, with Toslink or digital coax. I have a 73740, and the PQ from my DirecTV DVR looks (to my eyes) absolutely flawless, as does anything from my 3D Blu-ray player. Of course, the bigger the screen, the more "flaws" might be noticed. After all, we're not talking 4K here :>)

Thanks for the suggestions guys. I ended up going with the refurb from HHGregg. The price was simply too appealing to pass up. I pretty much stole this tv. With the 3 year warranty, stand and delivery, I couldn't justify the price of the 842. I know I can't mention price in here but I will say that I got an even better deal than they originally quoted because they wanted the tv out of the store and I told them I was really thinking about the 842 online. Tv gets delivered tomorrow but I'm out of town until Friday I'll let you guys know what I think when I get home.

Btw, not sure if I mentioned this but they let me test the tv at the store before I sealed the deal. It was in fact refurbished and looked brand new. I could tell by the way the plastic was sealed on the screen. I hooked up my ps3 and watched some dark knight and played uncharted 3. Not only was I blown away, but a couple employees saw it and their jaws dropped. Lol. They only had a crappy cable feed going to the floor model in the store. It's amazing how good these tvs look with a good source and connections. I saw no issues with the screen and trust me, i tested that bad boy for an hour. I'm pretty sure if I didn't buy it, one of the employees would have.

Well Darbee Darblet rock my 92840 and i can't watch w/o it as my eyes see PQ and good depth. someone in DD thread has tried darblet behind darbled which produce like 4K

I switched the HMDI connection straight from my DirecTV box and I couldn't notice any major difference between that and running it through my Yamaha receiver. Hmmm... I have a feeling it's just the poor quality I'm getting from the DirecTV box. Sometimes it looks decent, and sometimes it doesn't. All my Blu Rays look awesome, however.

Not sure I want to spend $300 to see if the Darbee Darblet will get the DirecTV signal up to snuff. Still considering a 65" Panny Plasma or LG LED.

there is nothing to loose on Darbee Darblet which comes with 30 days return policy and if you don't see any improvement then return it which will cost you $5. BTW, i would not compare watermelon with apple, 82" is way bigger then 65".

I just ordered the Darbee Darblet, can't wait and hope that it does make a difference.

It's off topic, but looking at some of the Darbee material, it pretty much looks like a contrast/edge enhancement box. If you turn on the Edge Enhancement, you'll probably get the same halo effect.
Edited by DoctorM - 9/19/12 at 4:14pm

Sorry that is way off base.. It does not do edge ehancement. It does improve perceived sharpness. EE is ugly, the deep field imager is also ugly. At reasonable levels it is hard to find fault with the Darbee, the only thing that makes sense with the built in features is to have them off.

Speaking of the TV's built-in settings, can anyone summarize what they specifically do, and if they're worth using? I'm talking about Edge Enhancement, Film Mode, Noise, etc. Mitsubishi did a terrible job explaining them (meaning they didn't explain them at all). Appreciate the help!

Final round of our purchase !
Our TV arrived on Tuesday, & boy am i IMPRESSED
After Best Buy Store ordered it, i got a tracking # in email fairly quickly saying it would ship via PILOT freight.
Pilot got it in St. Louis by friday & scheduled for delivery with us to arrive Monday.
Monday comes & i get a call from driver [Pilot contracted delivery out] wanting to make sure that i was ready for delivery.
I reminded him of BB delivery policy oi unboxing, putting TV in place needed, set on a stand, plug in 1 source to make sure TV was in working order & then hauling off the shipping waste.
Plus it was to go in our basement.
He says Whoa, i'm just a driver by myself & that nobody explained it that way
As i had printed out BB policy, i told him they could go online to read it or i would show it to them on proper delivery..
I got a call from the delivery contractor who asked if they could reschedule for Tuesday, i said it's an inconvenence but Okay !
Tuesday came & everything went very smoothly, but even with 2 men a dolley , & hand truck they still struggled mightily to get it in the basement..
They said they had never delivered a TV of the size & weight before...
I Thanked them for their carefull delivery & gave them a nice Tip to share...
Then i went to the basement & continued watching the Beatifull TV until the wife got home with Supper...

We got the 4 year Geek Squad warranty of which you have to watch how they price your policy.
If you buy the TV on Sale then you should ask what the real cost of the Geek plan is... Save $$$

I'm so Happy we picked this TV over the the 82" Mits or the 80" Sharp...
I hope this TV serves us well for @ least 10 years...
I also Thank God, that we didn't pick Store pick-up !!
...

Yeah. BB says these are 2-3 weeks to ship, but in my experience (five tries) it only takes about 3-5 days. 5 seems to have been my lucky number. I can't find a flaw with my latest (okay the fans are a bit louder, but not much louder than my DVD player spinning).

Hi guys-

I've had the Mitsu 840 DLP for about 9 months now and have been a little underwhelmed by the picture quality. After finding this thread and seeing some of the pictures posted, I feel like my set isn't producing an image as good as others.

In the center of the screen the image is blurry and not as focused as the edges. It is most notable when viewing text (menus, guides).

If I press lightly on the center of the screen, the image seems to focus better. It also feels like there is a gap between what I think is the outer lens and the lenticular lens.

For those who have these displays, is this gap normal? I wonder if the two lenses or screens are separated too much in the center?

Does anyone have any experience removing the outer bezel to check this? Any advice?

I found this picture here that helped me describe this..



Thanks
Paul

Can someone tell me (or PM) where to obtain the Service Manual for the 2011/2012 sets?

If explained, the majority of people still would ask "What?!?"

1. DeepField Imager darkens near blacks selectively to give a higher contrast feeling to the picture - some people call this Black Crush because it "crushes" the dark grays down to black. It may also boost the near brightest areas to the brightest for that scene. However it is seems to be slightly more than simply darkening the dark grays or brightening the brights. If you want pure contrasts and gray scale, then this alters that so it cannot be a pure gray scale.

If your TV offers this feature, it also offers a demo mode. Look at the demo mode and decide for yourself - it is your TV, not the purists here.

2. Film Mode is "2:3 Pull Down Compesation" and is for interlaced incoming signals 480i and 1080i. In order to save signal bandwidth, interlaced signals will divide a frame in to two fields, Field A and Field B, and send these separately. Field A is only the odd numbered horizontal lines of the picture. Field B is only the even numbered horizontal lines. A new field is delivered to the TV every 60th of a second, so because there are two fields for every single frame, there are 30 full frames per second. The TV is a progressive display, not an interlaced display. This means the TV needs to receive the two fields and then combine them into one progressive frame (the display of all of the lines at the same time). The TV and standard TV Broadcast signals are at 60Hz. This means the TV shows 60 frames per second. This also means the TV shows each of the original 30 frames twice to up convert this to 60 frames per second. Video created in a TV studio is 30 frames per second, and if interlaced, 60 fields per second so combine the two fields and then repeating each frame once is the easy part.

However standard film is created at 24 frames per second not 30 or 60 frames per second. This means at the source of the signal they need do a special pattern called 2:3 pull down (some reverse this and call it 3:2 pull down). That would be using repeats to change the frame rate. It works this way:

Frame one is sent and then repeated once, Frame two is sent and then repeated twice, Frame three is sent and repeated once, and Frame four is sent and repeated twice.

1-1-2-2-2-3-3-4-4-4-etc.

Now to send interlaced signals they select just the correct lines for each Field either "e" even lines or "o" odd lines.

1e-1o-2e-2o-2e-3o-3e-4o-4e-4o etc. The reason even is always followed by odd is because that is the way the old fashion CRTs scanned the face plate.

Both of these process are call the frame "cadence" In order to combine the correct Fields of even and odd lines the TV needs to skip several fields and also identify when a frame was lead by an odd instead of an even field. The process of indentifying this cadence and compensating for the combining of lines and the progressive display is call 2:3 pull down compensation or correction. This means that the correct fields were used to combine so you do not have (for example) the even lines from 2e (third repeat) combined with odd lines of 3o (first field).

The Auto setting tells the TV to look for and use the flags in "properly" created digital interlaced signal to identify the fact that there is 2:3 pull down and to compensate. If there are no flags the TV often can still identify these signals by analyzing other factors. However, there can be errors in identification. The OFF setting tells the TV to always use the combination technique it would use for signals originally made in TV studios (30 frames per second).

This feature should be used, and OFF selected only when you can see the TV has made an error. The error is usually something jagged edges or a combing effect on edges.

3. Edge Enhancement - there are several ways to make the edges of objects in the image look sharper. However, most TVs use a technique of looking at the brightness transition at that edge and then adjusting the brightness of the few pixels adjacent to the edge. For instance if the color on the left of the edge is a brightness level of 16 out of a possibility of 30 - low dark and high bright (these are made up numbers for illustration) and the edge itself is 12. The TV may boost a few of the bright pixels adjacent to the edge to brightness 20. This makes the edge at 12 look a little sharper but those few pixels that are artificially bright become a "halo". I know nothing about the Darbee unit so I cannot say how it enhances edges - it should be noted that any edge enhancement is artificial but that does not mean it is bad - no original signal is perfect in the first place.

4. Video Noise means "Video Noise Reduction". Video noise is visible in the picture as tiny dots, snow, grain, slight bug looking crawling etc. It is the unintended "crap" that is in the signal. Remember this is no such thing as a perfect signal. Usually because this noise is very random the TV can identify a lot of this "crap" and correct for it. One of the methods (and there a lot of methods) is to limit higher frequencies of the video signals, however since the fine detail is in the high frequencies, too much limiting of the high frequencies also softens the picture. Usually the best signals are from sources like Blu-ray where there is much less places for the crap to be introduced, so you might want OFF for that source. However, as with everything - there are good Blu-rays, excellent Blu-rays, and poor Blu-rays.

GEP...what do you do for a living? You have shown very good AV knowledge on this forum since I have been a member. I wish I could find some knowledgeable people like you have shown here. Sorry for going OT, but I appreciate your input here.

Wow, thanks for sharing your considerable knowledge, GEP! Very helpful for home theater (and Mitsu DLP) newbies.

You have a PM. Got it when the service tech came by to look at my screen. He didn't have the latest service manual, nor a laptop, so he logged into the Mits service site on my laptop and downloaded it.

Yes, Thank you. I really appreciate it. BTW is everything still good with your screen?

Mitsubishi shipped the replacement TV a couple of days ago, and the shipping company said I should receive a call to set up delivery on Monday or Tuesday. Still have to find a "disposal location" for the current TV.