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2011 Mitsubishi 3D DLP Owners Thread (740/840 series) - Page 119

post #3541 of 3948
My Darbee Darblet will be in tomorrow and I was wondering what others of the 82740 (or other models) have found to be the best setting for the Darbee? Just looking for a good place to start since I've never used this device?
post #3542 of 3948
Quote:
Originally Posted by JewDaddy View Post

So I went back to HHGregg yesterday and purchased the Mitsubishi branded 103's with external emitter to see if that helped with the flickering I was having. Since hooking up the emitter and turning off the internal emitter in the 3D menu, I have yet to notice any flickering with the 103's or 104's. I'm assuming maybe the internal emitter is defective or not strong enough to keep sync with the glasses. I'm gonna hang on to them for now and see if I have any more issues before deciding which glasses to keep.
Just curious if anyone knows an answer to my previous question about Samsung glasses. I have last years 3500 rechargeable glasses and didn't know if there was some type of RF Emitter I could purchase to get them to work with the 840. I know they would work with the 842, but wasn't sure if I could get them to work with the 840 via an external RF Emitter. Thanks!

You don't need external emitter and i was on phone with the support guy (Steve) from Dimensionoptics and he help me out make it working. It was setting in your TV which is causing flickering and below are mine suggested for 3Active.

To make your glasses work with your 92840, please do as follows:

Put on a 3D DVDS or 3D cable channel.

The image and screen should be slightly blurry.

Enter the 3D settings menu.

Source format: Select AUTO or side by side

Internal Emitter: Select OFF

DLP-Link: Select ON/STANDARD

Put the glasses on. From four to five feet away, press and hold the power button for one second.

The lenses will darken and you will see 3D effects.
post #3543 of 3948
Quote:
Originally Posted by lujan View Post

My Darbee Darblet will be in tomorrow and I was wondering what others of the 82740 (or other models) have found to be the best setting for the Darbee? Just looking for a good place to start since I've never used this device?

HD at 50% will be good and depend which mode you prefer from HD, GAME, FULL POP, i personally like FULL POP at 60% without any artifact but because of few other issue which make me feel that i will wait for 1 more year for their another product and return the one i have it for 2 weeks. I will be missing mine and now PQ will not be good on my 92840 because i'm reluctant to darblet now eek.gif
post #3544 of 3948
Quote:
Originally Posted by jkalsaria View Post

You don't need external emitter and i was on phone with the support guy (Steve) from Dimensionoptics and he help me out make it working. It was setting in your TV which is causing flickering and below are mine suggested for 3Active.
To make your glasses work with your 92840, please do as follows:
Put on a 3D DVDS or 3D cable channel.
The image and screen should be slightly blurry.
Enter the 3D settings menu.
Source format: Select AUTO or side by side
Internal Emitter: Select OFF
DLP-Link: Select ON/STANDARD
Put the glasses on. From four to five feet away, press and hold the power button for one second.
The lenses will darken and you will see 3D effects.

Please correct me if I'm wrong...

Internal Emitter: Select OFF - You need this set to ON if using IR vs. DLP Link
DLP-Link: Select ON/STANDARD - You need this set to OFF if using IR vs. DLP Link
post #3545 of 3948
Quote:
Originally Posted by jkalsaria View Post

You don't need external emitter and i was on phone with the support guy (Steve) from Dimensionoptics and he help me out make it working. It was setting in your TV which is causing flickering and below are mine suggested for 3Active.
To make your glasses work with your 92840, please do as follows:
Put on a 3D DVDS or 3D cable channel.
The image and screen should be slightly blurry.
Enter the 3D settings menu.
Source format: Select AUTO or side by side
Internal Emitter: Select OFF
DLP-Link: Select ON/STANDARD
Put the glasses on. From four to five feet away, press and hold the power button for one second.
The lenses will darken and you will see 3D effects.

Correct me if I'm wrong, but the Xpand glasses I have use IR not DLP Link right?? Your post is a little confusing. I would definitely use the method you just mentioned if I had DLP Link Glasses, but the expands use either the internal or external IR Emitter.

Please don't take this post wrong, I appreciate your suggestion. Just want to make sure we're on the same page.
post #3546 of 3948
Quote:
Originally Posted by JewDaddy View Post

Correct me if I'm wrong, but the Xpand glasses I have use IR not DLP Link right?? Your post is a little confusing. I would definitely use the method you just mentioned if I had DLP Link Glasses, but the expands use either the internal or external IR Emitter.
Please don't take this post wrong, I appreciate your suggestion. Just want to make sure we're on the same page.

Yes are correct, Xpand will use your internal emitter and for DLP Link we dont need emitter. Mine suggestion was for 3Active but i posted that it will give you idea what setting you will need for your Xpand.
post #3547 of 3948
Quote:
Originally Posted by enthuzist View Post

Please correct me if I'm wrong...
Internal Emitter: Select OFF - You need this set to ON if using IR vs. DLP Link
DLP-Link: Select ON/STANDARD - You need this set to OFF if using IR vs. DLP Link

Internal Emitter should be turn of for DLP Link glasses especially the one i have http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008DKGGBQ/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i00 and for Xpand it should be turn ON but DLP Link should be OFF.
post #3548 of 3948
Quote:
Originally Posted by Wesley Hester View Post

I could never get the X104 to stay synced to my WD-92840 (post). As for the 3Active, I still use them and TrueDepth 3D but I can only personally recommend the Mitsubishi branded Xpand X103's and Monster Vision Max 3D due to the same issues with both the 3Active and TrueDepth 3D glasses (link).

I'm not sure which 3Active you got but the one i order last week was available on amazon in june 2012 and label on left side on the glasses with "GL410". here is the link http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008DKGGBQ/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i00 on which i dont see color shifting which you mentioned while moving your position. Maybe the one you had was last year model.

Edit: I only see color shifting when i'm not in proper sync with TV meaning sitting position at edge or some corner which i think is expected and acceptable to me.
Edited by jkalsaria - 9/25/12 at 10:53am
post #3549 of 3948
Also, try doing a hard reset. I can't remember the precise steps now but I'm sure someone in the thread does. I had what appeared to be a weak/bad internal emitter. Note: when the Xpand X103's are turned on and are not getting any type of sync signal, the lenses will blink 5/6 times or the left lens will blink several times. I got an external X103 emitter that got around the issue. Later, I finally got with Mitsubishi about the internal emitter issue and they gave me the standard electronics manufacture's update and reset lines. I was update to date to 13.06 and decided what the heck and followed the hard reset instructions. Sure enough, the internal emitter and Xpand 103's synced without issue again. Unfortunately, the important reason of why the internal emitter did what it did is still unknown. I think it could have been after an update but can not say for sure. I currently still use the external emitter (with the internal emitter turned off - always important) because I get better performance with it up high and looking downward and also so I can use the Monster Vision Max 3D IR-to-RF adapter at the same time. This allows me and others to use a combination of Xpand X103's and Monster Vision Max 3D glasses all at the same time.
post #3550 of 3948
Quote:
Originally Posted by Wesley Hester View Post

Also, try doing a hard reset. I can't remember the precise steps now but I'm sure someone in the thread does. I had what appeared to be a weak/bad internal emitter. Note: when the Xpand X103's are turned on and are not getting any type of sync signal, the lenses will blink 5/6 times or the left lens will blink several times. I got an external X103 emitter that got around the issue. Later, I finally got with Mitsubishi about the internal emitter issue and they gave me the standard electronics manufacture's update and reset lines. I was update to date to 13.06 and decided what the heck and followed the hard reset instructions. Sure enough, the internal emitter and Xpand 103's synced without issue again. Unfortunately, the important reason of why the internal emitter did what it did is still unknown. I think it could have been after an update but can not say for sure. I currently still use the external emitter (with the internal emitter turned off - always important) because I get better performance with it up high and looking downward and also so I can use the Monster Vision Max 3D IR-to-RF adapter at the same time. This allows me and others to use a combination of Xpand X103's and Monster Vision Max 3D glasses all at the same time.

Sound good to me and may be TV might have some software bug and updating to latest 13.06 will solve the problem. I haven't tried Monster Vision Max 3D glasses but does it work with internal emitter, probably not as you mention IR to RF adapter from MV Max. BTW, how is MV Max 3D glasses compare to Xpand X103?
Edited by jkalsaria - 9/26/12 at 11:49am
post #3551 of 3948
Quote:
Originally Posted by jkalsaria View Post

Sound good to me and may be TV might have some software bug and updating to latest 13.06 will solve the problem. I haven't tried Monster Vision Max 3D glasses but does it work with internal emitter, probably not as you mention IR to RF adapter from MV Max. BTW, how is MV Max 3D glasses compare to Xpand X103?

The Monsters seem lighter but may just be better balanced between lenses and sides: not sure as both are light weight. Both the lenses and sides are larger than the X103's. To me, the Monsters are more comfortable, the X103's are a tighter/not going anywhere fit: I personally prefer the looser fit of the Monsters.
The Monster lenses are ever so slightly lighter. Both have the very minimum of color shift. You really have to turn your head off angle (read unrealistic angles) from the screen to see any. There is no ghosting on either except for some on the Monsters if your head is tilted back with high contrast images (see this recent post).
The Monsters have a built in battery you charge while the X103's have a removable battery. I'm happy with both and don't personally have a preference.
As mentioned before the Monsters are RF (radio frequency) while the X103's are IR (infrared). I personally prefer the use of RF that don't require line of sight. If I didn't have so many X103's, I would go all Monsters myself. With the new HDTV models, Mitsubishi seems to agree.
post #3552 of 3948
Since the 73640 thread is mostly dead and the 640/740/840 are all similar... The 73640 is my first DLP. Does geometry change with age? I swear my upper left corner is starting to bow up. I tried resetting the factory geometry and it stayed the same.

EDIT I don't think it changed now, just looks like my service menu horizontal and vertical positions reset. I use them to help me get my full desktop on my HTPC along with the overscan reduction in the video card driver software.
Edited by |Tch0rT| - 9/26/12 at 7:42pm
post #3553 of 3948
Quote:
Originally Posted by Wesley Hester View Post

The Monsters seem lighter but may just be better balanced between lenses and sides: not sure as both are light weight. Both the lenses and sides are larger than the X103's. To me, the Monsters are more comfortable, the X103's are a tighter/not going anywhere fit: I personally prefer the looser fit of the Monsters.
The Monster lenses are ever so slightly lighter. Both have the very minimum of color shift. You really have to turn your head off angle (read unrealistic angles) from the screen to see any. There is no ghosting on either except for some on the Monsters if your head is tilted back with high contrast images (see this recent post).
The Monsters have a built in battery you charge while the X103's have a removable battery. I'm happy with both and don't personally have a preference.
As mentioned before the Monsters are RF (radio frequency) while the X103's are IR (infrared). I personally prefer the use of RF that don't require line of sight. If I didn't have so many X103's, I would go all Monsters myself. With the new HDTV models, Mitsubishi seems to agree.

I have one movie which is top/bottom instead of SBS which i could not able to see it using 3Active DLP Link glasses, does Monster works with all 3D format or as some limitation
post #3554 of 3948
Quote:
Originally Posted by Wesley Hester View Post

I personally prefer the use of RF that don't require line of sight. If I didn't have so many X103's, I would go all Monsters myself. With the new HDTV models, Mitsubishi seems to agree.

Wesley, this just struck me as humorous, that you prefer glasses to watch a 3D TV that don't require you to be within line of sight.

By the way, got the replacement TV yesterday. It is not perfect, but it is better than the one it is replacing. I certainly can't complain since Mitsubishi basically gave me a free TV. I still need to find a home for the one being replaced. Thinking about trying to sell it for half price.
post #3555 of 3948
Quote:
Originally Posted by BrentBridge View Post

Wesley, this just struck me as humorous, that you prefer glasses to watch a 3D TV that don't require you to be within line of sight.
By the way, got the replacement TV yesterday. It is not perfect, but it is better than the one it is replacing. I certainly can't complain since Mitsubishi basically gave me a free TV. I still need to find a home for the one being replaced. Thinking about trying to sell it for half price.

In line with the emitter not the screen. ;-) I have a coffee table that seems to interfere also. The internal emitter is facing outward (not toward the rear mirror) centered just beyond the lens. Without having to be line of sight, RF glasses sync right away and stay synced even if placed on a table, temporarily leaving the room or simply just turning to talk to someone and turning back to the screen. Also, there is no interference from IR remotes pointed toward the screen that make IR glasses briefly loose sync and flicker.

Is the new TV's screen any better with horizontal and vertical lines? Hopefully the new one is better.
Edited by Wesley Hester - 9/27/12 at 7:40am
post #3556 of 3948
Quote:
Originally Posted by Wesley Hester View Post

Is the new TV's screen any better with horizontal and vertical lines? Hopefully the new one is better.

Yes, it is better, but not quite as good as I'd hoped for (perfect?). I did the manual geometry adjustment and got the letterbox horizontal lines really straight, where the old TV still had a hint of a "smile" at each upper corner. The vertical 4:3 lines are not quite vertical, but better than the other TV. Like I said, though, I really can't complain about it after what Mitsubishi did for me.

Hooked up the Darbee, did the geometry adjustment, did the Disney WOW "calibration", and then watched a bit of "Titanic" in 3D (at least to make sure the 3D worked) and it looked fantastic.
post #3557 of 3948
Quote:
Originally Posted by 120inna55 View Post

Since you requested it and were so generous, I've hosted it. Here you go: http://www.matthilton.net/sitebuildercontent/sitebuilderfiles/mitsubishi_v47_service_manual.pdf. Share the link as needed.
Edit: I will take it down upon request. Otherwise, I'll leave it up indefinitely.

Dumb question...how close would this be to the WD73740 service manual..I have the 740, but figured this would be better than no service manual at all.
post #3558 of 3948
Quote:
Originally Posted by BrentBridge View Post

Yes, it is better, but not quite as good as I'd hoped for (perfect?). I did the manual geometry adjustment and got the letterbox horizontal lines really straight, where the old TV still had a hint of a "smile" at each upper corner. The vertical 4:3 lines are not quite vertical, but better than the other TV. Like I said, though, I really can't complain about it after what Mitsubishi did for me.
Hooked up the Darbee, did the geometry adjustment, did the Disney WOW "calibration", and then watched a bit of "Titanic" in 3D (at least to make sure the 3D worked) and it looked fantastic.

Disney WOW "calibration" on top of Darblet gives good result or kind of ok?
post #3559 of 3948
Quote:
Originally Posted by jkalsaria View Post

Disney WOW "calibration" on top of Darblet gives good result or kind of ok?
I think the result is very good, especially the Darblet. Like some others have said, it almost looks like a "haze" has been removed from the screen at times. It "sharpens" up the picture without increasing the artifacts you can get using the TV's sharpness control. The WOW disc just ensures that I have my color, tint, brightness, contrast, and overscan centering set properly. Although, it seems like I can never get the contrast calibration screen to look like I think it ought to look. The brightness works great, but the contrast control doesn't seem to change the calibration screen much, and I can't get the brightest whites to blend.

Short of a professional calibration (this is a new TV so waiting on that), I believe it's about the best option possible.
post #3560 of 3948
Quote:
Originally Posted by BrentBridge View Post

I think the result is very good, especially the Darblet. Like some others have said, it almost looks like a "haze" has been removed from the screen at times. It "sharpens" up the picture without increasing the artifacts you can get using the TV's sharpness control. The WOW disc just ensures that I have my color, tint, brightness, contrast, and overscan centering set properly. Although, it seems like I can never get the contrast calibration screen to look like I think it ought to look. The brightness works great, but the contrast control doesn't seem to change the calibration screen much, and I can't get the brightest whites to blend.
Short of a professional calibration (this is a new TV so waiting on that), I believe it's about the best option possible.

Good, in that case i will also try to calibrate it once my newer darblet arrive.
post #3561 of 3948
Quote:
Originally Posted by JewDaddy View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by enthuzist View Post

I have found that after a few minutes (5) if no 3D signal is detected, the glasses will lose sync (by design - powersaver). You have to re-sync them if you have a long delay.
Also the Xpand site lists the 840 series as compatible with the X104 (Youniversal) glasses.

Ok. So I bought a couple pairs of the Mitsubishi-3DGX103 XPAND 3D glasses. Got both synced up no problem. Again, flickering during 3D. What the heck is the deal? I'm using what I thought were the official Mits glasses. What's causing the flickering. Starting to get frustrated at this point. Can someone please recommend glasses that stay synced without these issues. I'm thinking about the Monster Glasses with rf transmitter. Amazon has a good price on them right now. Would it help with the flickering if I use the external Xpand emitter?? Thanks

Did you ever try the Panasonic setting? Mitsubishi TVs have two IR formats, and the newer sets share the universal (Panasonic) setting. Setting the glasses to Samsung/Mitsubishi only works on the older models (2010 and earlier).
post #3562 of 3948
Quote:
Originally Posted by Augerhandle View Post

Did you ever try the Panasonic setting? Mitsubishi TVs have two IR formats, and the newer sets share the universal (Panasonic) setting. Setting the glasses to Samsung/Mitsubishi only works on the older models (2010 and earlier).

I ended up taking then back. I purchased a few pairs of the Monstervison 3D glasses and love em. Comfortable, rechargeable and no flickering. Amazon had a really good deal on them so I decided to give them a try. I'm glad I did.

I also picked up the Darbee Darblet and it makes the picture pop so much more and the 3D looks ten times better now. I found it to be a little on the soft side before, but the Darbee gives it a much sharper and crisper look. With the clear contrast screen and Darbee, I feel like I'm looking at an 82" LED. The only thing left to do now is work on the screen geometry. I remember messing with it on my previous 65738 and it was a pain. Not sure if it will be worth the hassle.
post #3563 of 3948
Quote:
Originally Posted by JewDaddy View Post

I ended up taking then back. I purchased a few pairs of the Monstervison 3D glasses and love em. Comfortable, rechargeable and no flickering. Amazon had a really good deal on them so I decided to give them a try. I'm glad I did.
I also picked up the Darbee Darblet and it makes the picture pop so much more and the 3D looks ten times better now. I found it to be a little on the soft side before, but the Darbee gives it a much sharper and crisper look. With the clear contrast screen and Darbee, I feel like I'm looking at an 82" LED. The only thing left to do now is work on the screen geometry. I remember messing with it on my previous 65738 and it was a pain. Not sure if it will be worth the hassle.

You guys are starting to convince me to take a much more serious look at the Darbee Darblet.
post #3564 of 3948
Quote:
Originally Posted by enthuzist View Post

You guys are starting to convince me to take a much more serious look at the Darbee Darblet.

I say, buy it off Amazon and give it a try for a couple weeks and if you don't feel like its worth it, send it back. As much as me or anyone else says its worth it, only you can be the judge of that. Give it a shot smile.gif
post #3565 of 3948
Quote:
Originally Posted by JewDaddy View Post

I ended up taking then back. I purchased a few pairs of the Monstervison 3D glasses and love em. Comfortable, rechargeable and no flickering. Amazon had a really good deal on them so I decided to give them a try. I'm glad I did.
I also picked up the Darbee Darblet and it makes the picture pop so much more and the 3D looks ten times better now. I found it to be a little on the soft side before, but the Darbee gives it a much sharper and crisper look. With the clear contrast screen and Darbee, I feel like I'm looking at an 82" LED. The only thing left to do now is work on the screen geometry. I remember messing with it on my previous 65738 and it was a pain. Not sure if it will be worth the hassle.
After I get the WD82842 calibrated... have to see how the picture looks, because right now, (uncalibrated) the picture is too soft. Don't know if this is due to the 2012 82" screen change(not having the CC screen). But, I'll have too at least give the Darbee Derp 3D a try.
post #3566 of 3948
Quote:
Originally Posted by enthuzist View Post

You guys are starting to convince me to take a much more serious look at the Darbee Darblet.

Quote:
Originally Posted by JewDaddy View Post

I say, buy it off Amazon and give it a try for a couple weeks and if you don't feel like its worth it, send it back. As much as me or anyone else says its worth it, only you can be the judge of that. Give it a shot smile.gif

As per my experience and others, its Amazing device and you will also love it. Also buy it from AV Science which will support avsforum. It comes with 30 days return policy and 90 days manuf. warranty. If you dont like or see any improvement then return it back.
post #3567 of 3948
So I've been looking through this thread hoping to come across some good picture settings. I've yet to find anything. Does anyone have or know of some good settings to try on the 82840? I like the way I've messed with the picture settings, but I find the shadow detail to be lacking a little bit. Maybe that's just a downside to DLP technology in general.
post #3568 of 3948
Shadow detail is not a problem on DLPs, and is not a "downside" to the technology. Get a test pattern and learn how to adjust the brightness control. http://www.spearsandmunsil.com/articles/settingthebrightnesscontrol.html
Edited by Augerhandle - 10/1/12 at 11:37am
post #3569 of 3948
On these clear screens it is much harder to get black just right than the matte screens, it might be somewhat better on the 82" clear screens but on the 92" clears you see a lot of reflection from the walls etc.. It is difficult to see a bar at 17 without seeing some dithering at 16. This is easily accomplished on the matte finish screens..
post #3570 of 3948
I apologize if this has been answered already, but I saw a previous post with the same question (not from me) many, many, many pages back that never got answered.

Is the speaker bar in the 840 sufficient enough for a center channel when using the center channel setting? I just ordered a 92840 and am debating if I spend the extra money I saved on a center channel or surround speakers (currently have 2 AR Hi-Res tower speakers, and Velodyne sub running on a Denon AVR)
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