2011 Mitsubishi 3D DLP Owners Thread (740/840 series) - Page 122

Update:

OK, a couple of posts ago I brought up that I developed white and black specks on my WD-65833. Just got off the phone with Mitsubishi Customer Service and they are sending the parts and a technician to fix the set within a week. It only cost $200 plus tax, very fair IMO for a TV built in August 2007. The new 82" is on it's way and it looks like I will give my brother and his family a fully repaired 65" DLP. They don't have allot of money so I am sure they are going to freak. Haha.

Mitsubishi as great us customer service and makes me happy that I stuck with them for the new TV. Just thought I would share. Bought a 5 year warranty for the new set BTW:)

My brother is just switching to the Sharp 80... going wall mount a spousal requirement. He had been using a 72" Sammy DLP, a 2008 model I gave him a couple of years ago. He knows the downsides on the Sharp.. so-so picture quality and poor motion handling. It is a WAF thing to get it on the wall.

Whenever I have seen the Sharps in the store I have found they looked bad. The 92840 looked okay in the store when I first saw it but that was a Fry's in their projector room. For the $2600 people are paying for leftover 2011 92 inchers wall mounting would have to be the main or only criteria to pick the Sharp.

My brother is buying the cheaper Sharp 80.. It will cost him $500, probably more to put the set on the wall with all the wires hidden including for the wall mount speakers. Too bad he still has to buy a stand to go with it. I will calibrate for him. Should be interesting to see one properly setup in a real room. My 92 is hooked to a Lumagen Radience XS with 125 point calibration. It is amazing... My brother loves film like quality of DLPs we will seem how much he likes the grainy look of the Sharp day after day. He will have spent well over 5k without the speaker upgrade he is doing.

I have a 58" Panny Plasma vintage about 2007 on the wall in the master bedroom. It is a major step down from the current Mits DLPs.I would say this if you can live with a 65" the current VT50s really are unbeatable. If you need bigger there is no real alternative. If you have to have it on the wall you are in Sharp territory.

i have a chance to buy a 73740 for $350. the catch is that it needs a new mirror that sells for about $160. has anyone changed out a mirror, and is it worth it?

thanks!

Oh the Memories...My First 73740 Arrived about 25 pages ago in this tread (march 2012) New in the Box and as soon as I unboxed it I could stick my hand in the upper left corner of the screen. Mirror was shattered into thousands of pieces. I would have been afraid to buy that one cause it obviously was dropped very hard to do what I saw and no telling what was cracked I didn't see ...But if your comfortable regarding why the mirror needs replacing and the tv powers up and all I would get it but I would never go asking (350$) I 'd offer 275-300 oh and my replacement arrived safe and sound..awesome t.v. let us know how It goes..Take some picts there is a service manual on here but not sure if its for a 73740 or 73742?

thanks, rtd2. i would feel comfortable replacing a mirror but was wondering what caused the damage and what else may need to be replaced. i'm awaiting a reply from the seller and will post up when i know more.

My main concern would be that all those pieces of sharp hard glass have fallen on the main lens of the light engine and dinged it up so badly that at a minimum the lens would have to be replaced. Be sure and check shipping costs on that mirror too.

The TV took a hard hit to shatter the mirror. I would be very wary speanding more than 200 if it were me. Parts can be had inexpensively enough on eBay....

For those who want their sets to be the absolute best they can be one should consider a Lumagen Radiance Video Proecessor. To use this you will either need a pro calibrator or a software package from ChormaPure or Spectral the maker of Calman 5. Both applications support 125 Point automated 3D color calibraion capability of the Lumagen Radiance line . You will need a suitable meter such as an i3 display pro or an an i one pro and will need to start the calibration in a wide gamut picture mode like Bright. The results far exceed what can be achieved with the traditional 6 color and greyscale calibration.

Even though the software is automated it is not as polished as it will be soon. It took me several runs and a patch or two to get through it. The result are very low color dEs across the greyscale and the 125 color set. The Radiance takes the 125 corrected colors and uses interpolation to adjust the entire color gamut. I was able to achieve and average color error of 0.9 dE, Only a couple of colors were above my 1.25 dE target and I had two out of the 125 color get as high as 2.0 dE. This is accuracy you have never seen on a Mits Rear Projector DLP. Keep in mind this is across the entire color gamut at saturations of 25,50,75 and 100 percent. Traditional 6 color calibrations adjust those color at only one brightness and saturaion level, typically 75 percent brightness and 100 saturation leaving all the rest to fall where they may. Very few displays are linear enough that setting 6 indiviual colors results in accuracy across color space. Even very expensive TVs like Sharp Elites are wildly inaccurate and almost impossible to correct with the internal controls.

I have a 92840 and the only downside is that you are not going to get a 40 ft lambert max white out of one these beasts with a fully broke in lamp and a fully accurate color space. I spent all day watching football games yesterday and the color is so natural and pleasing it really was a totally different television set But your werent gong to with 6 colors either. On the big set 30ish ft lamberts calibrated with a burned in lamp is about all your can expect and that is true regardles of using the internal controls or an external box like the Lumagen. The 73s and 82s will make more light obviously..

Not every one cares about getting the abosulte best out of one these sets. Until now it wasn't really possible. With the new 125 color calibration capabilities of Lumagen Radiance series you can not only get near textbook reference quality color out of a 2011-2012 Mits DLP you can also keep it there asily by running and auto- calibration every few hundred hours. If you want to add icing on top of your cake put a Darbee Darblet in the loop and you will see what seemed like an impossibly good image on your rear projector.
Edited by gtgray - 10/29/12 at 5:27am

I had the Darbee Darblet and it didn't work for me because I connected it via my receiver a Denon A/V 2311CI and then from the AV to the 82740. The TV kept finding a new device and I would select a name for the device and then the 3D settings would gray out making 3D viewing impossible. I would reset the TV to get the 3D settings back and then the following day, the TV would again find a new device (the Darbee) and the bad situation would start all over again. I have not heard of others with the Mitsubishi models having this problem, so maybe it's just my combination of hardware that causing this? I had to send it back because I wanted to use it for all my A/V connected devices. I could have used it just for blu-ray for instance, but didn't see paying $270 to use it only for one device.

It is you AVR most likely. The AVR has the HDMI CEC or HDMI Control feature turned on. If it causes issuses go into the menu of the AVR and turn that off.

i decided against the 73740 with the broken mirror. too many variables. i'm waiting to see what black friday brings- maybe an 82 incher

As a follow up post to this question, I figured I would share my experiences with the 'center channel' input on the 840 series. I basically tried to answer my own question by process of elimination.

Since I don't have a center channel low level output from my AVR, I hooked up my subwoofer pre-out from the AVR and turned the internal crossover up as far as it would go. My reasoning was that if the input on the Mits was actually looking for a low-level input and amplifying the signal with the internal amp, I would at least hear some very low frequencies (such as the bass in a persons voice) coming out of the Mits speaker array. Turned everything on and no sound. So I then hooked up the high-level center channel speaker outputs from my AVR to a RCA with dual tinned ends and voila, it worked. The center channel dialog was crisp and clear.

Of course, my logic isn't 100% solid since I didn't have a true center channel and YMMV.... but does anyone have any knowledge or experience to contradict my findings that the Mits does need an amplified signal for the center channel function? If that's the case, I still find it odd that they only included one female RCA connector and not speaker terminals.

What all glasses will work with the 82840? Is the Xpand-103 the only ones? Is their a list of them?

Also, what about calibrating the tv?

Any glasses designed to compatible with Panasonic IR system (note Panasonic also has RF - Bluetooth), will work with the internal IR emitter in the Mitsubishi. This includes several brands. Check the AVS 3D Fourms for recomndations.

"Also, what about calibrating the tv?" You are not specific with this question. Yes ANY TV will benifit with calibration. The simplest method is to get a calibration Blu-ray disc - there are about 3 - 5 of these available and follow the tutorials on the disc. It seldom works very well to just copy someone else's calibration as every TV is unique.

As GEP said, It might be because of your AVR, try turning off HDMI Control for TV from AVR as well ARC and also make sure in TV itself its turn off because DD lag support for it and might be causing this issue. Its been 3 month with DD no issue and works like charm

I'm interested in your brothers experience.... My wife also wants a "thin" set. Not for wall mounting, but she doesn't want rear projection any more.

That leaves the Sharp 80" and 90".

I am interested in your thoughts as you see his 80" calibrated vs. your 92" mits.

The price for the 92" mits is so tempting, maybe I have to overrid the wife. If I had to buy the Sharp 90", I would want a picture that beats the mits...

Let me know what you see....

My brother ordered from a very low priced internet vendor and he has not received it yet. I don't know if there is a problem with the vendor as I don't know exactly when he pulled the trigger. I will report back on my thoughts when he gets it hung..

The big thing is room lighting, if you have high ambient light levels than the Sharp has an advantage. If I did not need the size a new 2011 82840 would be my choice.. there are probably not mny floating around. Advantage it has over the 92" is brightness. Never calibrated one but 40-45 ft lamberts should be doable with a very high quality calibration. The Sharp should be able to do 50 plus. 35 ft lamberts is about the best you can do and still keep the calibration very tight on a 92" and that is with the lamp aged and on bright.

thank you....

I have an old 70" sony that is rear projection. Glare and room light were an issue, mostly due to the skylights. I got skylight blinds and that greatly improved things.

But, I wanted a "wow" display when I upgrade. Both size and quality. Maybe now is not the right time....

I believe the lighting should be subdued with a 92840/92842. If 80" is your size range I think the 82840 was the sweetest spot of the recent sets because it was very bright. The 82740/82742 sets are still quite bright and have matte screens so are much less effected by glare from room lighting. Recently Tiger Direct had the 82742 for $1499. i don't know what you are looking for but that is a heck of a lot of TV deal for the money.

Apparantly the retailers are also aware of the superiority of the 82840, as it seems to be drawing about a $1000 premium over the 82740, and about $800 over the 82742. I'm planning blackout drapes for the viewing room, and trying to decide if I will like the 82840 $1000 better than an 82740, or an 82740 and a video processor down the road.

Question: for DLP's with a matte screen, you would think that the screen texture would reduce picture sharpness less for larger screens (largel pixel size) than for smaller screens. Is this thinking correct?

So I've owned my WD82840 for a little over a month now and absolutely love it. I love being able to sit back and actually enjoy my tv for once. After owning numerous LED's and Plasmas, I got fixated on all of the picture quality issues and quirks that came along with them. Granted, this is by no means the best picture quality on the market, it's got a very nice cinema like quality to it, without all the banding, clouding, flashlighting, burn in etc.......

My only real gripe about the picture quality is in regards to 3D. The biggest issue I had has already been solved by my darbee darblet, which was a very soft 3D image. The main issue now is the lack of depth and pop to 3D. I love that there is no ghosting or crosstalk like I saw on just about 99.9% of all LEDS and Plasmas. However, this just doesn't seem to pop like I thought it would. Especially with it being 82 inches!!!! Is there anything I could do to improve this, or is just one of those, it is what it is type situations? Any suggestions or comments are welcome. Thanks!

I imagine if there is that much of a premium for 82840s now it is a rarity issue. Many people bought them for well under $2k. If your lighting is that controlled and you have the room get the 92840 for 2500 hundred or so they bring these days.

Do you run the lamp on the bright energy setting for 3D?

Have you done a 3D specific calibration?

I have my lamp energy set to bright on 3D. I haven't really tweaked the settings because there's really not a lot to change. I say that, but if you change to Advanced, it definitely gives you more options. When I changed it over, even after messing with al the settings, the overall picture looked too dark and dull for my taste. Honestly, the picture in 3D looks pretty good other than sharpness (which my darbee darblet and AV Receiver have fixed) My biggest gripe is the lack of image pop when viewing 3D. By image pop I mean things jumping off the screen and truly looking 3D like I've seen on previous sets. I assume there's not really anything you can do to change that, unless there's a hidden setting somewhere I don't know about I really thought that having such a big tv would make a difference on 3D jumping off the screen. My previous 55 LED seemed to pop off the screen more than this 82" Just confused and wanted to get others opinions.

Also, any good 2D or 3D settings people are using?

Any 3D that I've viewed on my 82740 has only been as good as the source. If the 3D movie didn't look good in 3D at the theater, then it's not going to look good on your DLP. Avatar, for instance looks great on my DLP but it's only because it's great 3D to begin with.

Very true. Again though, I have no qualms with the actual 3D picture quality, I'm just not getting the depth and true 3D sense I've seen on other sets either in stores, or that I've owned. For instance, at one point I had the new Samsung 65ES8000 (which has been returned due to multiple defects and quality control issues). I watched Titanic 3D on it, and was simply blown away by how much the image jumped off the screen. I couldn't believe I was watching a movie from 1997. It honestly looked better than any other 3D Blu-ray I've seen besides Avatar. Decided to watch it again on my new 82840 and was shocked by how different it looked. There were only a handful of scenes that kind of jumped off the screen but not very much at all. It was hard to even imagine that I was watching the same movie.

Overall, I prefer the 3D picture quality on this set to LED's and Plasmas, but it's the 3D depth and image pop that is confusing me. I expected to be able to literally touch the images coming off the screen with the screen size. Even Avatar doesn't have the pop and sense of depth it had on my previous 55" or 65" I'm not bad mouthing this set at all, in fact, it's the first tv I've owned in a long time that I'm actually happy with. I just mainly wanted to get other people's experiences with 3D and what I could possibly do different or maybe even something I'm doing wrong. Thanks!

Just try reversing the setting for the glasses to see if that improves your 3D.

Thanks GEP. I'll give it a shot.

If you don't mind me asking, which Mits do you have and how do you find the 3D affect to be?

I have had the 833 (several years ago) and now have a 742. I find it to be good, not excessive and little to know crosstalk (double imaging). When watching a horror 3D film it has plenty of pop out but most good 3D movies, non-horror types, keep pop out to a minimum on purpose.