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2011 Mitsubishi 3D DLP Owners Thread (740/840 series) - Page 123

post #3661 of 3948
Quote:
Originally Posted by gtgray View Post

My brother ordered from a very low priced internet vendor and he has not received it yet. I don't know if there is a problem with the vendor as I don't know exactly when he pulled the trigger. I will report back on my thoughts when he gets it hung..
The big thing is room lighting, if you have high ambient light levels than the Sharp has an advantage. If I did not need the size a new 2011 82840 would be my choice.. there are probably not mny floating around. Advantage it has over the 92" is brightness. Never calibrated one but 40-45 ft lamberts should be doable with a very high quality calibration. The Sharp should be able to do 50 plus. 35 ft lamberts is about the best you can do and still keep the calibration very tight on a 92" and that is with the lamp aged and on bright.





The Plasmas are the worst on glare IMHO..
Our Samsung 65" LED shows the kitchen lights reflection, & even the shaded reading lamp on end table... TV still watchable, you get used to it!

On our Family/Home Theater room we went with the 92" Mits 92840, we went & compared the Mits 82" & Sharp 80"
All i can say, if you understand DLP technology & don't have to hang your TV on a wall there is no real comparison between the Sharp & MITs.
I'll take the Mits every time !!
I just showed the wife we could get the Mits 92" 840 model for hundreds less than the Sparp 80" & how much better it would look !
Needless to say "I'm a very Happy Camper"
When used in a controlled lighting area the Mits can't be beat for the $$$$$..
By the way the TV speakers in the 840 / 842 series provide best std TV sound i've heard....
The 3-D is of no interest to us on either TV... I guess it's a novelty for the kids & their friends. But our young'n is all grown & can buy his own TV's
wink.gif
post #3662 of 3948
Quote:
Originally Posted by Old Ram Fan View Post

The Plasmas are the worst on glare IMHO..
Our Samsung 65" LED shows the kitchen lights reflection, & even the shaded reading lamp on end table... TV still watchable, you get used to it!
On our Family/Home Theater room we went with the 92" Mits 92840, we went & compared the Mits 82" & Sharp 80"
All i can say, if you understand DLP technology & don't have to hang your TV on a wall there is no real comparison between the Sharp & MITs.
I'll take the Mits every time !!
I just showed the wife we could get the Mits 92" 840 model for hundreds less than the Sparp 80" & how much better it would look !
Needless to say "I'm a very Happy Camper"
When used in a controlled lighting area the Mits can't be beat for the $$$$$..
By the way the TV speakers in the 840 / 842 series provide best std TV sound i've heard....
The 3-D is of no interest to us on either TV... I guess it's a novelty for the kids & their friends. But our young'n is all grown & can buy his own TV's
wink.gif

I guess this just goes to show that for each his own opinion.....

I'm stuck trying to decide between the Sharp and the Mits.

On the Sharp thread, they say there is no comparison between the two and the Sharp is head and shoulders ahead.

The mits threads say the same, but hat the mits is the clear winner.

Maybe it just means that you can't go wrong either way.... My loocal HhGregg does not have the mits in store any more. No way to do a side by side comparison....

Decisions, decisions....
post #3663 of 3948
Quote:
Originally Posted by JackVette View Post

I guess this just goes to show that for each his own opinion.....
I'm stuck trying to decide between the Sharp and the Mits.
On the Sharp thread, they say there is no comparison between the two and the Sharp is head and shoulders ahead.
The mits threads say the same, but hat the mits is the clear winner.
Maybe it just means that you can't go wrong either way.... My loocal HhGregg does not have the mits in store any more. No way to do a side by side comparison....
Decisions, decisions....
My brother just got his Sharp hung. I will see this weekend probably. In my opinion he would have been better to have it on a stand. Putting it on the wall forced a 13 ft viewing distance... too much for an 80 inch.
post #3664 of 3948
I agree Jack, the things that detrmine the final purchase is cost, picture quality, whether it has to be hung on the Wall & understanding DLP technology !!

i would say 1 thing your brother needs to do is look @ the brightness & contrast settings...

i feel too much LED brightness on LCD/LED sets can cause a little harm to your eyes...

if i had to hang the TV on the wall, i would have no problem paying the extra $900 dollars for the little 80" screen Sharp, afterall i started by comparing the 82" mits with the 80" sharp for our Home Theater/ Family Room !

I think controlled lighting behooves all 3 TV's
...wink.gif
post #3665 of 3948
My brother mounted his Sharp too high on the wall. Other than that it looked fine. I did not have a meter with me or test disks as it was an impromptu visit. He had a lot of light coming from afternoon sun through windows just a couple feet off the side of the display. This lighting would have been pretty intolerable with my 92840.

The 80" looked oversharpened but had excellent blacks. We turned the automatic SOE down to the minimum setting. He was playing a Tom Petty Video and the color was fairly decent out of the box. He paid $3500 for it. I also saw a few minutes of OTA football broadcast and the greens looked resonable. It was in Standard Mode. He had turned the backlight down already. It is an LED so it does not look particularly natural in the way DLP does but again the blacks are quite good.. Sadly you have to stand to see it at its best because of his mounting it at least a foot too high on the wall. I understand why he made that choice, but I would have put the center of the screen at eye level.
post #3666 of 3948
price check on aisle 6... they have a 73740 at frys for $1099 plus tax and $55 mandatory delivery fee. should i jump on it or wait for a better deal?
post #3667 of 3948
Quote:
Originally Posted by lostinaustin View Post

price check on aisle 6... they have a 73740 at frys for $1099 plus tax and $55 mandatory delivery fee. should i jump on it or wait for a better deal?

HHGregg will have a WD73C12 starting Thanksgiving 10:00 PM for $799.
post #3668 of 3948
Quote:
Originally Posted by redonly View Post

HHGregg will have a WD73C12 starting Thanksgiving 10:00 PM for $799.

no hhgregg nearby, but thanks.
post #3669 of 3948
3D FIRST TIMER

PS3 - Mits 73740 (13.06) - Xpand X103s

I've had my 73730 for a few months now, but only recently got some 3D glasses - Xpand X103s. When I got the glasses last week, I only had one 3D movie, The Avengers. First impression was - WOW! 3D is AWESOME! This was my first time seeing a 3D movie anywhere. biggrin.gif

After the WOW factor wore off, I started to notice things that bugged me - motion blur and flashing in particular.

I've since bought Avatar 3D and Under the Sea. When watching Avatar, the depth is great as long as there is no fast action on the screen. During those scenes, I get what I think is an inordinate amount of motion blur and I get these "flashes" of darkness, mostly in the right eye, but I've seen it in both.

Can anyone help me out here? I've tried just about every combination of settings on my TV and my PS3 and am at my wits end. Will better glasses make a difference? Maybe it's my eyes 'cause my wife claims to not see what I'm seeing (although, she has never been as critical of PQ as me).
post #3670 of 3948
The X103's can blink dark when the sync signal is perceived not to be present by them (left lens several times or both 5 times). They will flash light if IR remote(s) and/or IR blaster(s) emit in their direction and picked up my their IR receivers.

Most 3D signals will be 24P with standard "movie" cinematic judder during fast pans of the camera, etc.

I've tried many different glasses and the X103's have been the best for me.
post #3671 of 3948
I'm not getting the flashes from loss of signal to the glasses - the dark flashes I'm getting are more of a peripheral thing, kinda hard to describe.

And, from what I've read the "judder" is just a normal thing with 3D, thanks for clarifying that...kinda bums me out though, wish it was smoother. While I enjoy the 3D stuff, I just think the tech isn't quite there yet. I can't wait to see it in 4K though! biggrin.gif
post #3672 of 3948
How close to the wall can a 92840 be placed and still maintain reasonable access to the back panel inputs? I just assembled a Bell'o NT2147 in preparation for a 92840 scheduled to arrive tomorrow and am trying to decide how far back I can place it (my wife's preference is as far back as possible).
post #3673 of 3948
4 inches is recommended for the back and sides as enough clearance for proper airflow to avoid overheating. This should be enough for the connections as they are located further "in" (away from the wall) as the deepest part of the back of the tv (the hump).

To actually access the back panel inputs would require much more. Just angle it out with the stand (if possible), installed/connect everything, test to make sure everything is working properly and then move the tv and stand into their final position. Of course remember that years down the road, a lamp replacement will be necessary if you keep the set long enough. That panel is near the center in the back.
Edited by Wesley Hester - 11/20/12 at 7:19am
post #3674 of 3948
Hi Wesley. I know you've had your 92840 longer than most of us. Just wondering if you've changed your bulb and if so how many hours did you get out of it. gtgray said his had lost about half it's brightness in about 2000 hours. I've got about 1300 on mine. Seems fine so far. I got a good 5000 or more out of my 73C9 before I replaced it. Smaller screen explains that though.
post #3675 of 3948
Actually, I will have to check the hours on mine so far. I haven't changed the bulb yet. In fact, I haven't changed a bulb before. My first rear projection was CRT, the second LED, the third was bulb based but I gave it to my brother. This set will most likely be the first I actually change a bulb out on as I happily and patiently await less expensive "true, certified, standardized, Ultra HDTV" 4K displays (the recently released Sony 84-inch XBR-84X900 Ultra HDTV set for $25K is too much for me) and components with hopefully more content. A friend at work discovered she needed the bulb on her set changed out (after learning it wasn't the cable television's fault and that in fact there was a bulb inside the tv). She wanted me to help her with it but she had her neighbor do it before I could. So I was close to actually changing a bulb once. ;-) I'll post my bulb time later this evening.
post #3676 of 3948
Quote:
Originally Posted by Wesley Hester View Post

4 inches is recommended for the back and sides as enough clearance for proper airflow to avoid overheating. This should be enough for the connections as they are located further "in" (away from the wall) as the deepest part of the back of the tv (the hump).
To actually access the back panel inputs would require much more. Just angle it out with the stand (if possible), installed/connect everything, test to make sure everything is working properly and then move the tv and stand into their final position. Of course remember that years down the road, a lamp replacement will be necessary if you keep the set long enough. That panel is near the center in the back.

Thanks! for the info. I'm doubtful I can move the Bell'o with the TV on it, but I think I can do the connections prior to moving the TV to its final place on the stand. I went with the Bell'o as I have a large center channel (Paradigm Signature C5) and need to angle it up.
post #3677 of 3948
Quote:
Originally Posted by apog View Post

Thanks! for the info. I'm doubtful I can move the Bell'o with the TV on it, but I think I can do the connections prior to moving the TV to its final place on the stand. I went with the Bell'o as I have a large center channel (Paradigm Signature C5) and need to angle it up.
If it's on a carpeted floor it would be a little difficult to move. If it's going on a wood floor I would stick some of those thick felt pads on the bottom of the stand. Ours slides around easily.
post #3678 of 3948
Quote:
Originally Posted by g4s View Post

If it's on a carpeted floor it would be a little difficult to move. If it's going on a wood floor I would stick some of those thick felt pads on the bottom of the stand. Ours slides around easily.

You're right. I did put the thick pads under the stand and even with the TV on top, it still slides fairly easily on the wood floor. Still plan to move it as infrequently as possible though. Even after reading the success of others with the Bell'o, I was a bit apprehensive while we placed the tv on the glass top, but it appears to be sufficiently sturdy.
post #3679 of 3948
Quote:
Originally Posted by apog View Post

Thanks! for the info. I'm doubtful I can move the Bell'o with the TV on it, but I think I can do the connections prior to moving the TV to its final place on the stand. I went with the Bell'o as I have a large center channel (Paradigm Signature C5) and need to angle it up.

I usually buy "sliders" and glue them to the bottom of the stand. It works pretty well on both carpet and wood floors. I can rotate the tv and stand out when needed..
post #3680 of 3948
My 82-840 has shut down on its own twice after a few hours of viewing. It is in an open space 12 inches from the wall and on a stand. First time I claimed warranty and they did power supply and main board. No issues until last night when it shut down and the green led blinked. I turned it back on a few minutes later and no issue since. Should I demand more replacement parts? Which ones this time? Love the set but frustrated. Still under warranty.
post #3681 of 3948
Quote:
Originally Posted by TransAmLS1 View Post

My 82-840 has shut down on its own twice after a few hours of viewing. It is in an open space 12 inches from the wall and on a stand. First time I claimed warranty and they did power supply and main board. No issues until last night when it shut down and the green led blinked. I turned it back on a few minutes later and no issue since. Should I demand more replacement parts? Which ones this time? Love the set but frustrated. Still under warranty.
Have you considered this? :
Quote:
Originally Posted by K7JQ View Post

...A quirk that I saw mentioned in a previous post: Last night while watching a DVD, the TV suddenly turned off by itself, and the green light immediately started blinking (no 1 minute lag time) for about 60 seconds and stopped. I then turned the TV back on, and all was normal for the rest of the DVD playback. I looked up troubleshooting on the Mits website, and they had a comment about this happening. Apparently, if the TV receives corrupted data from a DVD, Blu-ray, cable/satellite, or over the air broadcast sources, it will shut down and reboot during the green blinking light time. If it happens once, or once a month, it is not considered an issue. If it happens more frequently, check the input source (Blu-ray, cable/satellite) and contact the provider or manufacturer to solve corrupted data issues. I'm also thinking that the software update might have come through the internet while watching the DVD, and the TV shut down and rebooted to install it....just a theory. I will monitor this in the future...
post #3682 of 3948
Quote:
Originally Posted by g4s View Post

Hi Wesley. I know you've had your 92840 longer than most of us. Just wondering if you've changed your bulb and if so how many hours did you get out of it. gtgray said his had lost about half it's brightness in about 2000 hours. I've got about 1300 on mine. Seems fine so far. I got a good 5000 or more out of my 73C9 before I replaced it. Smaller screen explains that though.

I have 1612 hours.
post #3683 of 3948
Quote:
Originally Posted by Wesley Hester View Post

I have 1612 hours.

Just checked mine 3951 hours
post #3684 of 3948
Quote:
Originally Posted by Wesley Hester View Post

I have 1612 hours.
Around here if anyones home the TV's on. Not being watched a lot of the time too. We'll probably pass your hours up before long.
post #3685 of 3948
Has anyone found the service code for the WD-82740?
post #3686 of 3948
First post for me but I am desperate for help. I purchased the Mitsubishi 73" WD-73740 several months ago and I love it. However, there has been one issue that has bothered me since I set it up; I can't get my headphones to work when playing Xbox. Here is what I have:



Mitsubishi WD-73740, Digital Audio Out

Xbox 360 Slim with HDMI out, Optical Audio Out

Turtle Beach Earforce X31 Headset Analog In

LG BlueRay HDMI out, Optical Audio In

PC HDMI out



When not using the headphones, I get normal audio from the TV speakers as expected, plus I have the optical out connected tothe LG BlueRay for surround sound and that all works fine. I have the digital audion out on the WD-73740 going to a digtital to analog converter which then connects to my headset. The headset works when working on the PC, watching movies on the blueray and watching TV but they don't work with the Xbox, which is the primary reason that I have them. I have tried changing the HDMI ports on the back of the TV to see if that was the issue but no change. I have tried different HDMI cables, no change. I have tried disconnecting the BlueRay player audio, no change.



Please help me!
post #3687 of 3948
Quote:
Originally Posted by Matzaklr View Post

First post for me but I am desperate for help. I purchased the Mitsubishi 73" WD-73740 several months ago and I love it. However, there has been one issue that has bothered me since I set it up; I can't get my headphones to work when playing Xbox. Here is what I have:

Mitsubishi WD-73740, Digital Audio Out
Xbox 360 Slim with HDMI out, Optical Audio Out
Turtle Beach Earforce X31 Headset Analog In
LG BlueRay HDMI out, Optical Audio In
PC HDMI out

When not using the headphones, I get normal audio from the TV speakers as expected, plus I have the optical out connected tothe LG BlueRay for surround sound and that all works fine. I have the digital audion out on the WD-73740 going to a digtital to analog converter which then connects to my headset. The headset works when working on the PC, watching movies on the blueray and watching TV but they don't work with the Xbox, which is the primary reason that I have them. I have tried changing the HDMI ports on the back of the TV to see if that was the issue but no change. I have tried different HDMI cables, no change. I have tried disconnecting the BlueRay player audio, no change.

Please help me!

I'm a little confused on your connections but, Everything you have something is not wired right. I use turtle beach PX3 and only have the analog connected to the back of the tv's R/L analog audio out and everything works fine. Everything else is connected with HDMI directly to the TV. I am not sure why you are using optical for anything, maybe if you could expand on that I can help you further. Are you running Optical from the XBOX to something? if so that's probably your problem.

Are you looking to have all sources available thru the headset?
post #3688 of 3948
You are right, the Turtlebeach headset is an analog connection, but my TV doesn't have an analog out, it only has a digital out. So I have the digital out going to a converter, which then converts it to analog which connects the headset. The optical connection is between my xbox and blueray player only for the purposes of surround sound and it works. I have tried disconnecting the optical from the xbox to see if that fixes the problem and no dice. Also, keep in mind that I still get normal speaker audio from the TV speakers from the xbox with only the HDMI connection. I cannot think of any reason why the headset does not work for the xbox only. I am awaiting a call back from Mitsubishi now to discuss the issue with their customer service department. I will post a solution here if we come up with one.
post #3689 of 3948
If the digital audio out of the TV works for everything but the Xbox, you most likely have something set incorrectly in the Xbox. But not knowing what signals are compaitble with the digital-to-analog covnerter and what options are avaliable in the Xbox menus, it is hard to guess what setting is incorrect.

I believe you do not have an LG Bluray but instead you have an LG Blu-ray Home Theater System. These are two different types of products. The Blu-ray player along does not have "surround sound" and speakers and does not have an optical input. A Blu-ray player would connect to a surround sound system separatly.

A Blu-ray Home Theater System is a combination system that has a audio amplifier for speakers, a surround sound processor, an AM/FM tuner and a built in blu-ray player (no need to connect separatly).

Your TV is able to receive and pass out of the digial audio output unchanged, PCM Stereo audio and Dolby Digital (5.1) surround sound audio. A lot of digital-to-analog converters are compatible ONLY WITH PCM Stereo. If your Xbox is sending Dobly Digital to the TV but your digital-to-analog converter handles only PCM Stereo then the TV would be passing Dolby Digital to the converter and that is not going to work.

When sent directly to the LG BD/HTS, the Dolby Digital is OK because that is what the surround sound features are for, to handle Dobly Digital and DTS surround sound streams.
post #3690 of 3948
Quote:
Originally Posted by Matzaklr View Post

You are right, the Turtlebeach headset is an analog connection, but my TV doesn't have an analog out, it only has a digital out. So I have the digital out going to a converter, which then converts it to analog which connects the headset. The optical connection is between my xbox and blueray player only for the purposes of surround sound and it works. I have tried disconnecting the optical from the xbox to see if that fixes the problem and no dice. Also, keep in mind that I still get normal speaker audio from the TV speakers from the xbox with only the HDMI connection. I cannot think of any reason why the headset does not work for the xbox only. I am awaiting a call back from Mitsubishi now to discuss the issue with their customer service department. I will post a solution here if we come up with one.

Your TV has an analog out, I believe its right by the component input, check and see if I'm correct.............

Edit, sorry I see now, looks like only audio in, Thats Really odd, I have the 840 so thats why I was confused, If you could tell me how each component is connected I can probably give you a viable solution.

Do you have the XBOX headset adaptor? a quick fix is to just purchase one and swap between sources, I know thats a pain, again list your pieces and how thy interconnect and I may be able to help you.
Edited by Chezbrgr2 - 11/27/12 at 5:37pm
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