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2011 Mitsubishi 3D DLP Owners Thread (740/840 series) - Page 126

post #3751 of 3948
Quote:
Originally Posted by g4s View Post

You really want to have the center of the screen pretty close to eye level. For us that was about a 12" stand, but we needed to go a little over 13" because of our center channel. You don't want to go to high or the top of the screen will start to look a little darker. Here's the dimension sheet. http://www.mitsubishi-tv.com/asset/file/dim_sheet/dimsheet-WD-92840.pdf Off topic, but are you the ladysman who used to drink Courvoisier on Saturday Night Live?tongue.gif

My stand is done and installed although i have to finish up hooking up everything. It came out great and is a perfect height! I'll post pics of the setup when done if you guys want.
post #3752 of 3948
Quote:
Originally Posted by yadfgp View Post

Thanks again JewDaddy for your pm's. smile.gif
That's 1 issue I'd like to improve on these sets is the picture looking a bit more soft than I would like. Especially on 3D. Glad to hear that your Darblet helped with this.
Lujan I am curious about why you weren't that happy with your Darblet. frown.gif
Sorry to hear it didn't meet your expectations. Maybe JewDaddy's onto something with the way you had yours set up or with it being used with your Denon.

I had mine set up just like JewDaddy but using a Denon receiver instead of Onkyo. Got tired of the "New Device" coming up every day when turning the TV on.
post #3753 of 3948
Quote:
Originally Posted by ladysman View Post

My stand is done and installed although i have to finish up hooking up everything. It came out great and is a perfect height! I'll post pics of the setup when done if you guys want.
Congratulations. Yeah, I'd like to see it.
post #3754 of 3948
Quote:
Originally Posted by g4s View Post

Congratulations. Yeah, I'd like to see it.

sorry, I fnished setting everything up last night. Wow, what a difference an awesome receiver makes. In all honesty, i noticed a huge difference in cables as well (Monoprice 24awg High speed) compared to some really crappy cables i've had for years.

I'll get some pics tonight for you.

In the meantime, without going through hundreds of pages, what 3D glasses are recommended for those with eyeglasses and those with kids (mine are 7and 9 with small heads) that work with the 92840?

Thanks!
post #3755 of 3948
Quote:
Originally Posted by lujan View Post

I had mine set up just like JewDaddy but using a Denon receiver instead of Onkyo. Got tired of the "New Device" coming up every day when turning the TV on.

I don't get that with the Darbee. I don't run video through my Denon 2112ci though. I use a Radiance and only send audio to the Denon. The Darbee helps no question. Having the color and grayscale right also helps.
post #3756 of 3948
Quote:
Originally Posted by g4s View Post

Congratulations. Yeah, I'd like to see it.






post #3757 of 3948
Quote:
Originally Posted by ladysman View Post





Looks great. I guess you're all up and running. By the way, I don't know about the 3D glasses. Haven't got into it yet.
post #3758 of 3948
Righteous cabinet/stand, LadysMan. I hate the IKEA particle board crap. You oughta go into business . . .
post #3759 of 3948
Beautiful! I might have to get my finishing carpenter buddy to build me one of those. smile.gif

You got plans??
post #3760 of 3948
That custom stand is very nice. I will do something in 2013. My stand is right at 15". I will somehow get it down to to twelve. Getting the screen center at eye level is a big deal even more so on the 92" displays. I have pretty much done everything else one can do to take the image quality to highest level the hardware will allow. If someone has 92" on a 17' or higher stand don't spend money on a Darebee first, instead get a custom stand 12" or lower. You will get big improvements in brightness and saturation. Then when your budget allows buy the Darbee.


BTW yesterday my screen start blinking off and on and then going to random noise like an old analog channel with no signal. I knew it had to be the Darbee as I had seen it behave that way at first install a couple of months ago. I had to pull the power to the Darbee for a minute or two and then plug it back in. Then all was well. I had been noitcing a very slight red push in the last couple of days and was about recalibrate. Power cycling the Darbee fixed that too. Using standby did not fix anything had to get power copletely off at the device.
Edited by gtgray - 12/21/12 at 2:08pm
post #3761 of 3948
Quote:
Originally Posted by Paul.R.S View Post

Righteous cabinet/stand, LadysMan. I hate the IKEA particle board crap. You oughta go into business . . .

I have to admit, this isn't me that created this but a great friend of mine who has a workshop in back part of his garage did this. I'll be sure to pass on the compliments. With all the wood, hardwood, laquer, stain and misc, i had right at $200 in materials (maybe slightly over). It looks great and very sturdy!

i'll be sure to pass on what you guys say! I did mention last night when i saw him that he should go into business. smile.gif
post #3762 of 3948
Hello,

I have tried to get the service manual for the WD-92840 TV Mitsubishi but without success :-(
Could you give me a link where i could download it please?

Your early answer will be enjoyable.


David
post #3763 of 3948
so,if turning off geo correction preserves 1-1 pixel ratio,does adjusting the hvpos mess with it? can i disable the geo correction,and adjust the hvpos and retain 1-1 pixel mapping? or does adjusting the hvpos negate disabling geo correction?
post #3764 of 3948
One does not affect the other. HV Pos moves the entire picture, geometry correction adjusts the location of pixels within the picture.
post #3765 of 3948
Quote:
Originally Posted by Augerhandle View Post

One does not affect the other. HV Pos moves the entire picture, geometry correction adjusts the location of pixels within the picture.

thus destroying the pq,am I right? or is it fine to adjust the geometry and retain excellent pq? sorry,im still trying to understand the importance of a 1-1 pixel relationship.
post #3766 of 3948
Quote:
Originally Posted by ipoop2much View Post

thus destroying the pq,am I right? or is it fine to adjust the geometry and retain excellent pq? sorry,im still trying to understand the importance of a 1-1 pixel relationship.
Geometry correction does not necessarily destroy picture quality. It may be very necessary depending on the natvie geometry of the set. But it effects 1 to 1 pixel matching and for PC usage that is not usually a good thing. Scaling is also not necessarily a good thing. I let my set overscan even though I have the Lumagen Radiance XS which will is probably the highest quality screen szing and scaling solution you can get. I will switch to 1.85 aspect mode out of the Lumagen when I need to work at the PC desktop.. but that is rare. I have to admit the Lumagen scaling is very good and artifacts are not noticed.

If you put up some resoltuion patterns you will see the effect of geometry correction. It is ugly but in most content you won't really notice it for the most part. For me turning if off is just one little part of everything I do to get the maximum image quality the set can deliver. If the native geometry was bad and correction made it near perfect I would use it. Overscan can not eliminated without some image damage... 1 to 1 pixel mapping goes out the window with that as well. My 82837 had nearly perfect native geometry and so running without correction was not realy and compromise. I have some sag on the top horizontal but it is only observable usually in program guides and that kind of content.

Everything you do is about compromises and finding the right combinations for the individual dispaly.
Edited by gtgray - 12/26/12 at 10:06pm
post #3767 of 3948
Quote:
Originally Posted by Alan P View Post

I recently compared about 7-8 different pairs of 3D glasses with my 73740.
The X103s were my first pair - didn't like them. They are very uncomfortable for me no matter which nose piece I used. Very heavy and not the best optics I've found.
Out of all the glasses, I've found these to be the best (for me):
Panasonic TY-EW3D3LU 3D Active Shutter Eyewear for Panasonic 3D HDTVs (Large) (2011 Model)
http://www.amazon.com/Panasonic-TY-EW3D3LU-Active-Shutter-Eyewear/dp/B0058SYDUW/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1354808418&sr=8-1&keywords=Panasonic+TY-EW3D3LU+3D+Active+Shutter+Eyewear+for+Panasonic+3D+HDTVs+%28Large%29+%282011+Model%29
The Panasonics are the most comfortable by far. Very light. Great optics. The lenses are small compared to most, so if that is an issue for you...
I also like these a lot:
True Depth 3D Glasses for 2011 Mitsubishi 3D TVs
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005V4YWVI/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i01
Almost as comfortable as the Panasonics. The optics are second best though. I'm still trying to decide whether or not to keep these or order another pair of Panasonics for my wife. She's happy with the True Depths, and they're about $15 less than the Panasonics...
I also tried the Optomas, Ultraclears, X104s, and PS3 glasses. The two above beat all those in terms of comfort and clarity.
I don't know why those 3DG X103s are so expensive. From the Amazon description, it sounds like they come with an external emmitter and some sort of kit...??

Thanks for the info. I bought some PS3 glasses at Best Buy for $20. They seem fine to me and the optics are great. I don't notice anything wrong but i'm a rookie. smile.gif

With that, i ordered the Xpand 103's and the these http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007COR4AG/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i02

I'm thinking about ordering the panasonics but at $70, i can get 3 PS3 glasses. Although i can return them back to amazon. I want to see if i notice a difference and if i don't i'll go back to PS3.

The other side is my kids and I want to make sure they have an enjoyable experience so they will be trying on each of these. Heck if anyone else has others, let me know and i'll give them a try if amazon has them. smile.gif

I watched Avatar using the PS3 glasses on my 92840 and was blown away.
post #3768 of 3948
ok,so now that I understand geo can someone explain to me what film mode does and how/if it affects 24hz bluray playback? is it just one of those post processing ops that everyone likes to disable? or is it the smooth 120hz? sorry,im a dlp noob...rolleyes.gif
post #3769 of 3948
Spent some time on this and posted in RPTV thread. I own the 82740 and an IPhone5, use the app to control TV.

Hopefully last update:

Been using it now.

Iphone (s)
1) Cellular Data must be off
2) IP is set static (not sure this is necessary but that's how mine is set up)
3)Router setting is set to my router IP
4)DNS setting is also set to my router IP

Mits TV
1)IP is set manually different from phone
2)Gateway and DNS are set to my routers' IP

Router,
1) In DHCP, reserved IP of IPhone
2)In DHCP, reserved IP of TV

Usage/Observations:
1)Multiple IPhones can control TV, turn it on, put in standby ect.,
2) but if IR remote is used to turn off TV then IPhone will not be able to turn on TV.
3) IPhone(s) will regain this function if an IPhone is used to but TV in Standby (off).
4) Being able to use IPhone for TV controll is definately useful and convenient.
5) IF cable modem and router are power cycled, will have to setup again.


regards,
MitsMarty
post #3770 of 3948
Quote:
Originally Posted by Shady12 View Post

I have an 82740 on it's way from Paul's. I ordered an Ikea Lack last week from Amazon(you could order it from Ikea online, even with shipping cheaper than Amazon). It was returned due to it being damaged. I changed my mind and went with the Omnimount Echo, which is $152 through Amazon, and was eligible for free two day shipping if you have Prime. It's wider, and the shelf is 10" tall as opposed to 6" on the Lack. . . . The Lack won't fit a receiver. (bold mine)

Thanks for this. I was looking at the Lack despite my contempt for IKEA (lack of) quality but was concerned about not being able to fit my Denon AVR into it. And of course neither the specs nor their "universal language"/pictorial assembly instructions tell you the shelf height. And of course I had trouble getting a live human in the furniture department on the phone at my not-so-local store.

Six inches def ain't enough for my ol' 3803.
post #3771 of 3948
Ladysman,
I urge you to check out this website. (http://www.dimensionaloptics.com/default.aspx)
I came across these guys website last year while researching all different brands,models etc. When I initially contacted them, I was surprised that their main man CEO Steve actually answered the phone. He gave me so much info on the whole 3D set-up. What to watch for, What to avoid. I was really impressed. Their active glasses are also available through Amazon as well. These glasses do require an external emitter which plugs into the back of the TV, but honestly it's black and only about 3 inches long. No one even notices it's there. They have different styles available and sizes as well (kids) so you could mix and match for the family like we've done. The glasses also come with their own hard shell zippered case and cleaning cloth. These glasses are also re-chargeable! No extra batteries needed. Oh yeah, they fit over prescription glasses as well.
We've had ours for just over 1 year, and love them. Hope I'm not sounding like a company stock owner. It just kills me to see everyone on this and other boards spending double the money and more on these other brands ie X-pand, 3D TV Corp, True Depth etc. mad.gif
If there is a better quality priced pair out there, could someone please email me. I haven't found them yet.
Ken
post #3772 of 3948
I'm currently using the Xpand 3DG-EX103 glasses for my WD-73740. They work well, however they are eating up the CR2032 batteries like crazy. I think I have them turned off, but I still have to replace the battery more often than the instructions say. I see that 3D Glasses Unlimited have their Blick Universal (I wear prescription glasses), and Dimensional Optic has their 3Active glasses that are recommended for my TV, and they are both RECHARGEABLE. With them both being the same price, any recommendations from users? I don't want DLP Link glasses. Thanks.
post #3773 of 3948
K7JQ,
I can only speak for the Dimentional Optics glasses. These things rock. I see that both the Dimentional Optics as well as the Blicks come with storage cases. The Dimentional Optics also come in different sizes (kids and adults) as well as a choice of styles such as black,gun metal, camouflage etc.
Just my 2 cents worth. I don't think you'll be sorry with these Dimentional Optics glasses. My family love them.

Call Phone numbers
USA 877.548.8450 (toll free)
For Technical Support call 805.548.8450 ext 5
You will likely talk to their CEO Steve. He will answer any and all 3D related questions you may have.
Tell him Ken in Burlington, N.C. sent you. You may get a better deal than you think !
post #3774 of 3948
Quote:
Originally Posted by Paul.R.S View Post

Thanks for this. I was looking at the Lack despite my contempt for IKEA (lack of) quality but was concerned about not being able to fit my Denon AVR into it. And of course neither the specs nor their "universal language"/pictorial assembly instructions tell you the shelf height. And of course I had trouble getting a live human in the furniture department on the phone at my not-so-local store.
Six inches def ain't enough for my ol' 3803.

Paul,
I have the TVilum Lauren stand from Amazon. It is 19.2" tall and just the right height for my viewing. It is much darker than the picture indicates and matches the size and color of the 82". The case is very sturdy, but a slight pain to assemble. The height of the shelves is adjustable.
post #3775 of 3948
Quote:
Originally Posted by wolfpack7483 View Post

Ladysman,
I urge you to check out this website. (http://www.dimensionaloptics.com/default.aspx)
I came across these guys website last year while researching all different brands,models etc. When I initially contacted them, I was surprised that their main man CEO Steve actually answered the phone. He gave me so much info on the whole 3D set-up. What to watch for, What to avoid. I was really impressed. Their active glasses are also available through Amazon as well. These glasses do require an external emitter which plugs into the back of the TV, but honestly it's black and only about 3 inches long. No one even notices it's there. They have different styles available and sizes as well (kids) so you could mix and match for the family like we've done. The glasses also come with their own hard shell zippered case and cleaning cloth. These glasses are also re-chargeable! No extra batteries needed. Oh yeah, they fit over prescription glasses as well.
We've had ours for just over 1 year, and love them. Hope I'm not sounding like a company stock owner. It just kills me to see everyone on this and other boards spending double the money and more on these other brands ie X-pand, 3D TV Corp, True Depth etc. mad.gif
If there is a better quality priced pair out there, could someone please email me. I haven't found them yet.
Ken

As I noted earlier, I did buy a set of these. In fact, the family and I have been using these glasses for the last ~10 days, watching 2 movies, 1 of which many times as kids like to do (Finding Nemo). In this time, we have used the Xpand 103’s, PS3 Glasses, and Dimensional Optics glasses. First off, I’m glad I bought different glasses as it seems each of us likes a different set (with both kids liking the Xpand because they wrap around their heads). My wife likes the PS3 glasses and they fit her well. The Dimensional Optics glasses I like as they are comfortable with great optics. I’ve pretty much thrown out the possiblility of buying the Panasonic glasses. Just no needs as I like the Dimensional ones a lot. I also love the case and the fact they are rechargeable although this didn’t steer me to buy these….you guys did. biggrin.gif

i'd love to get a set of the Dimensional ones for my kids to try. the "adult" set I bought are too big. I didn't see the Children sizes on their site so point me in the right direction.
post #3776 of 3948
Thanks Wolfpack 7483. I'm gonna order a paior of Dimensional Optics 3Actives, and see how they work out. Most places, CR2032's are about $2.40 apiece....adds up if they drain this fast.
post #3777 of 3948
Anyone got suggestions as to help remove scuffs or abrasions from the front panels of our DLP sets? Had mine about a year and a half and no matter how many threats to the kids or dog-stuff happens. Uggh. mad.gif
But seriously, I'm sure most of us have or will have this problem in the future considering the size of these units mixed with the plastic screens.
Thanks in advance....rolleyes.gif
post #3778 of 3948
FWIW I'd contact Mitsubishi, you could easily make matters worse with the wrong cleaner.
post #3779 of 3948
Sunday I was watching the TV (WD-82840) and I heard a loud pop and the picture went out. Okay - 18 months old it is about time the lamp blew. It was shattered inside the case (the lower part of the filament exploded). I ordered a new one and it arrived in 2 days. I installed the new one and - no picture. I power cycled the unit and the picture came up - looked great! Watched it for a few hours.

The next morning it would not start. The green LED would come on for about 2 minutes then go to RED. It will now occasionally start and look good as new. Other times it just won't start. I think I can hear/feel the fan running near the lamp. Any suggestions?

Thanks in advance!

I may have double posted - sorry)

Mike
post #3780 of 3948
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike Moorman View Post

Sunday I was watching the TV (WD-82840) and I heard a loud pop and the picture went out. Okay - 18 months old it is about time the lamp blew. It was shattered inside the case (the lower part of the filament exploded). I ordered a new one and it arrived in 2 days. I installed the new one and - no picture. I power cycled the unit and the picture came up - looked great! Watched it for a few hours.

The next morning it would not start. The green LED would come on for about 2 minutes then go to RED. It will now occasionally start and look good as new. Other times it just won't start. I think I can hear/feel the fan running near the lamp. Any suggestions?

Thanks in advance!

I may have double posted - sorry)

Mike
Don't know if these sets have a safety switch that is actuated when you close the lamp door/housing, but with my Sammy, you have to take care to ensure the switch is completely depressed upon closing the door or it will have random shutdowns and random success with startups.

I would, at least, re-seat the lamp and ensure the door is closed tightly. If the problem persists, you're going to need to make a service call.
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