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2011 Mitsubishi 3D DLP Owners Thread (740/840 series) - Page 127

post #3781 of 3948
Yes the door has a safety interlock switch. When the door is open the power LED turns orange so you know it is open. Thanks!
post #3782 of 3948
Did you get your new lamp from Mitsubishi? Aftermarket lamps are known to cause startup problems. With DLP lamps, cheaper isn't always better.
post #3783 of 3948
I have a lamp from Mits on order. The one in there (the repalcement) was $129 while not cheap it was not an OSRAM lamp like the one I took out.
post #3784 of 3948
Recently, my 73740 has started making a short, high-pitched "whining" noise on startup. Maybe it's always done this, and I just never noticed it before. It only lasts like one second after I turn it on. Any idea what it may be?
post #3785 of 3948
Quote:
Originally Posted by Alan P View Post

Recently, my 73740 has started making a short, high-pitched "whining" noise on startup. Maybe it's always done this, and I just never noticed it before. It only lasts like one second after I turn it on. Any idea what it may be?
Color wheel spinning up.
post #3786 of 3948
Just wanted to note I am at 3500 hours on my 92840 and it is just under 13 months in service.
post #3787 of 3948
Quote:
Originally Posted by 120inna55 View Post

Color wheel spinning up.

Thanks, that's reassuring.
post #3788 of 3948
Hey fellas.....a few questions about tweakability.

I currently have a 65" Hitachi CRT, which outputs an amazing picture, partly because of the various tweaks I've employed. Some of the more important are opening up the set and making the insides as black as possible and creating a lens hood. I plan on getting a 7342 in the hopefully not too far off future. How difficult is it to remove the screen on the Mits and does anyone know what the insides look like? Is it grey inside? Has anyone ever gone in and cleaned the mirror?

I've skimmed through the posts here, but not seen any mention of anyone opening the set up and looking inside.
post #3789 of 3948
Unnecessary. Unlike CRT, DLP is not close to the high voltage which is what attracts dust/dirt. No need for Duvytine or whatever it is called, no need to clean the (1) lens every 6 mos, no convergence, nadda. You WILL LOVE the DLP coming from a CRT I assure you. cool.gif
post #3790 of 3948
Quote:
Originally Posted by lordcloud View Post

Hey fellas.....a few questions about tweakability.

I currently have a 65" Hitachi CRT, which outputs an amazing picture, partly because of the various tweaks I've employed. Some of the more important are opening up the set and making the insides as black as possible and creating a lens hood. I plan on getting a 7342 in the hopefully not too far off future. How difficult is it to remove the screen on the Mits and does anyone know what the insides look like? Is it grey inside? Has anyone ever gone in and cleaned the mirror?

I've skimmed through the posts here, but not seen any mention of anyone opening the set up and looking inside.





I seen the Inside of the FIRST 73740 I received ONLY because the top corner of the screen was busted completely out leaving a 6-8" Hole revealing the Inside of the TV( Sometimes Ship Happens rolleyes.gif ) ...the mirror was shattered into hundreds of pieces but appears to just hang suspended best I remember ..I remember it was black on the inside same as outside....Luckily the 2nd TV arrived in mint condition and I couldn't tell you what the inside looks like... just a beautiful picture.... smile.gif
post #3791 of 3948
Quote:
Originally Posted by Splicer010 View Post

Unnecessary. Unlike CRT, DLP is not close to the high voltage which is what attracts dust/dirt. No need for Duvytine or whatever it is called, no need to clean the (1) lens every 6 mos, no convergence, nadda. You WILL LOVE the DLP coming from a CRT I assure you. cool.gif

I'd still rather be able to make sure the insides of the cabinet are black, as opposed to gray though. I also like the idea of a lens hood. But I'd have to experiment with the set to see if it is beneficial like it is with CRT.
post #3792 of 3948
Most of these sets have access holes held in place with a single screw on either side. You can peer inside the set without much trouble using a flashlight, even when it's on.

Back in the day, I installed Duvytine in a DLP RPTV. It didn't appear to have an impact on the overall picture quality; unlike CRT. The inside of the set was a gray but even after covering every inch with black the DLP black levels were the same.

The mirrors on RPTV's are typically (always?) mounted to the back, slanted side and are usually trapezoidal shaped being longer on top than the bottom with the sides going down at an angle: in toward the bottom. Some may be glued? I don't know. The mirrors have been held in places with brackets in every RPTV I've owned over the years.
post #3793 of 3948
UPDATE: The lamp from Mitsubishi worked like a charm. It was an OSRAM brand and solved my hard starting issue.

Cheers!
post #3794 of 3948
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike Moorman View Post

UPDATE: The lamp from Mitsubishi worked like a charm. It was an OSRAM brand and solved my hard starting issue.

Cheers!

Glad you got it going!
post #3795 of 3948
Quote:
Originally Posted by K7JQ View Post

Thanks Wolfpack 7483. I'm gonna order a paior of Dimensional Optics 3Actives, and see how they work out. Most places, CR2032's are about $2.40 apiece....adds up if they drain this fast.

Try this place for much better prices on CR2032 cells. I am big into high end flashlights and this is a good online retailer. Button cell link

Also this coupon code will save you even more: cpf2011

Link to discount page

Travis
post #3796 of 3948
How do I find out how many hours are on my 82840 lamp?

Thanks!
post #3797 of 3948
Press the "menu" key then the numbers 2470.
That should do it.
post #3798 of 3948
Thank you!
3100 hrs after 13 mos of service, just ordered a lamp to have on hand. thanks again!
post #3799 of 3948
Glad you were able to use that code. I believe it is the same one Mits
has used on all its DLP big screens going back to the 73". A friend of mine
has about 4500 hours on his bulb..........quite a good run.
post #3800 of 3948
Is it expected that after a certain amount of hours the bulb starts to dim out? I haven't really noticed this but I have a lot of ambient light in my viewing room that I'm always fighting.
Thanks
post #3801 of 3948
Quote:
Originally Posted by Nofears View Post

Is it expected that after a certain amount of hours the bulb starts to dim out? I haven't really noticed this but I have a lot of ambient light in my viewing room that I'm always fighting.
Thanks
Yes.
post #3802 of 3948
Quote:
Originally Posted by Nofears View Post

Is it expected that after a certain amount of hours the bulb starts to dim out? I haven't really noticed this but I have a lot of ambient light in my viewing room that I'm always fighting.
Thanks

The bulb will dim progressively over it's lifespan, you won't notice just how dim it is until you replace it and the new bulb burns your retinas. cool.gif
post #3803 of 3948
Quote:
Originally Posted by Alan P View Post

The bulb will dim progressively over it's lifespan, you won't notice just how dim it is until you replace it and the new bulb burns your retinas. cool.gif

That's very true. I have only replaced the bulb on one DLP out of 5 that I've owned. The dimming was so gradual that I didn't even notice it but when I replaced the bulb, it was like night and day.
post #3804 of 3948
So is there maybe a consensus on the number of lamp hours until it should be replaced? I've got about 1300 hours on mine and it seems to be dimmer but it's been so gradual that it really is hard to tell. My TV sits in the family rooom surrounded by skylights and I'm sure I'll probably notice a big difference after I change out the bulb. It seems kind of like a waste changing out the lamp every 9-10 months though. In my old Sony Qualia it was pretty much routine to change out the lamp every 6-8 months. I think Sony had some clue that their lamps would dim pretty quickly because the voluntarily offered free replacements for the first 3 years I had the set.
post #3805 of 3948
Quote:
Originally Posted by club968 View Post

So is there maybe a consensus on the number of lamp hours until it should be replaced? I've got about 1300 hours on mine and it seems to be dimmer but it's been so gradual that it really is hard to tell. My TV sits in the family rooom surrounded by skylights and I'm sure I'll probably notice a big difference after I change out the bulb. It seems kind of like a waste changing out the lamp every 9-10 months though. In my old Sony Qualia it was pretty much routine to change out the lamp every 6-8 months. I think Sony had some clue that their lamps would dim pretty quickly because the voluntarily offered free replacements for the first 3 years I had the set.

I think it really depends on a lot of factors. Which size set are you using and which lamp setting. Running the Bright Energy setting will use the lamp up faster. While the setting will kind of determine the burn rate, you have so much more headroom on 73" than you do on a 92" inch. The lamp will not only change brightness over time (become dimmer) it will also change color. So a calibration will fall off. If you were using a meter and calibrating to say 35 ft lamberts that would determine your lamp life. Once you could not reach your target of 35 fl lambers while maintianing greyscale and color gamut tartgets it would be time to start thinking about a new lamp. That might be 1600 hours on a 92" and 3500 on a 73".

I have 3500 hours and am on my second lamp. I just did a calibration to roughly 35 ft lamberts and to get there had to raise the contrast from 53 to 59. I had a tad more clipping of above white but was able to get near perfect color from nothing to 100 stimulus which is max white.


I would not be surprised for someone with a 73" to achieve 40 plus foot lamberts with the lamps energy setting on standard. Standard couuld easily increase lamp life significantly. So how you use the set, its configuration and its size will greatly effect individual lamp life. I have heard the annecdote that off short on/off cycles wear the lamp more quickly than long power on cycles. I am confident this is true in regard to lamp failures but I don't know about brightness over time.
post #3806 of 3948
Thanks for the info gtgray. I do have a 92840 and have the lamp on the bright setting. A meter would also be very useful I think.
post #3807 of 3948
Hello guys, I have had my 82" 840 for about 6 months now. I spend most of my time here in the audio section but I do have a couple of questions for you guys.
1) Can anyone share with me their settings? I have a feeling that I am not getting the most out of this TV and I was told that if I have it professionally calibrated, I would need to keep having it done every year or so since it is a DLP.
2) Is there any way to get the "soap opera effect" with a DLP? Went over to a buddies house and his new LED has this effect and it kind of looked good for sports. It might get old but I would a least like to have the option.

Thanks in advance for your help and I am very sorry if both of these questions have already been answered in these 127 pages. BTW, this is my fourth Mitsubishi DLP. Love them for movies!
post #3808 of 3948
No "soap opera effect" with these DLPs (aka TrueMotion, etc.).

I've got a 73740 and could share my settings, but they may not translate well. I'll post 'em up tonight if I think about it. smile.gif
post #3809 of 3948
Quote:
Originally Posted by K5/SS View Post

Hello guys, I have had my 82" 840 for about 6 months now. I spend most of my time here in the audio section but I do have a couple of questions for you guys.
1) Can anyone share with me their settings? I have a feeling that I am not getting the most out of this TV and I was told that if I have it professionally calibrated, I would need to keep having it done every year or so since it is a DLP.
2) Is there any way to get the "soap opera effect" with a DLP? Went over to a buddies house and his new LED has this effect and it kind of looked good for sports. It might get old but I would a least like to have the option.

Thanks in advance for your help and I am very sorry if both of these questions have already been answered in these 127 pages. BTW, this is my fourth Mitsubishi DLP. Love them for movies!

If you calibrate at 2000-3000 hours you won't have to recalibrate yearly. Your calibration won't be perfect at the beginning or end of the lamp's life, but it'll be damn close.
Edited by Augerhandle - 2/8/13 at 3:49pm
post #3810 of 3948
Great info guys, thanks. Maybe I will have it calibrated after all.
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