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2011 Mitsubishi 3D DLP Owners Thread (740/840 series) - Page 129

post #3841 of 3948
Yeah 55.. born jan 23rd 1958. And I just finished the moebius model of the Seaview from Voyage to the bottom of the Sea.

I have complete Ghostbusters gear and uniform, and even a real Ghostbusters Samhain complete with an insulation foam head I carved. I even have a Jayne Cobb outfit, including a custom Vera. (We costume at conventions).
Last year I made my wife Mass Effect eva foam armor, and this year's costume plan is the motorized patriot from Bioshock Infinite.

You can even check out my facebook page, if you don't believe me. wink.gif
post #3842 of 3948
Just giving you a hard time brother...wink.gif I know full well that there are folks that do things I wouldn't and they wouldn't do things I do...makes the world go round baby! cool.gif

But I was trying to get across my point that the warranty will not cover a dimming bulb and for you to be smart, buy a replacement, use this bulb as a spare in case the replacement blows (either in or out of warranty) to tide you over till you get a new lamp.
post #3843 of 3948
Plan is actually to buy several bulbs at once. the price will only go up on them, so buying several just makes sense.
post #3844 of 3948
Quote:
Originally Posted by Splicer010 View Post

also = shorter lamp life time.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Splicer010 View Post

Extra voltage=brightness.....

Not very clear on the responses but I guess this means I can use the 92" lamp on the 82" set?
post #3845 of 3948
Quote:
Originally Posted by Gareee View Post

Plan is actually to buy several bulbs at once. the price will only go up on them, so buying several just makes sense.
Price will drop...The lamp for my current 73734 w/housing, shipped, is something like $35. cool.gif

Quote:
Originally Posted by lujan View Post


Not very clear on the responses but I guess this means I can use the 92" lamp on the 82" set?
Yes. However, they should be one in the same as the real difference lies in the lens, not the light engine...
post #3846 of 3948
Wow! That IS cheap. I think the ones for the 82742 are around $70 or so.

I would be curious though if the 92" lamp does in fact have a shorter lifespan than the 82" lamp. If it does not, that additional brightness horsepower might be nice.

You might be able to watch in standard instead of on bright, and possibly get even more life from the 92" lamp.
post #3847 of 3948
Quote:
Originally Posted by Gareee View Post

Wow! That IS cheap. I think the ones for the 82742 are around $70 or so.

I would be curious though if the 92" lamp does in fact have a shorter lifespan than the 82" lamp. If it does not, that additional brightness horsepower might be nice.

You might be able to watch in standard instead of on bright, and possibly get even more life from the 92" lamp.
You mis-understand. The lamp should be the same. Regardless if it is the 82 or 92 inch. The 92 needs more brightness, thus a higher voltage. But this higher voltage is the problem for life span of the lamp. Same lamp in 82 should [theoretically] last longer than when placed in the 92 due to the lower voltage. No 'extra brightness' will be observed using the 92 lamp in the 82 set...
post #3848 of 3948
Quote:
Originally Posted by Splicer010 View Post

A lamp can last up to 3 years...All depends on the usage.
Quote:
we knew we'd be replacing lamps every year or so
And this time it is the "or so" that comes into play. Just instead of 10 months it was 6 months...Love the claim of being 55 and your wife and you playing Resident Evil. 6. Sounds cute...Sounds more like BS to me...but cute none-the-less... wink.gif

Ahem. I too am "over 50" and I also game. I play everything from Little Big Planet to Halo...
post #3849 of 3948
Quote:
Originally Posted by Augerhandle View Post

Ahem. I too am "over 50" and I also game. I play everything from Little Big Planet to Halo...
Keep the world going man! wink.gif
post #3850 of 3948
Quote:
Originally Posted by Splicer010 View Post

You mis-understand. The lamp should be the same. Regardless if it is the 82 or 92 inch. The 92 needs more brightness, thus a higher voltage. But this higher voltage is the problem for life span of the lamp. Same lamp in 82 should [theoretically] last longer than when placed in the 92 due to the lower voltage. No 'extra brightness' will be observed using the 92 lamp in the 82 set...

Thanks!
post #3851 of 3948
Quote:
Originally Posted by Augerhandle View Post

Ahem. I too am "over 50" and I also game. I play everything from Little Big Planet to Halo...

Maybe he feels were of the generation that grew up around the radio waiting for our favorite program, to start biggrin.gif I was a kid when the first video game system was released and couldn't wait for them to progress to the state they are today . I'm well in my 40's and don't plan on stopping now wink.gif
post #3852 of 3948
Quote:
Originally Posted by Splicer010 View Post

But to be fair Gareee, I have had multiple DLP sets from Toshiba and Mitsubishi. I have never had a lamp 'stay bright' longer than 10 months before significant dimming. Your warranty will not cover you because the lamp dimmed. That is the nature of a projection lamp, it dims with usage. The warranty is if the lamp fails, meaning, does not work. It does not mean 'call us if YOU seem to THINK the picture is not as bright and we will replace the lamp.'

Truth is folks there is a tremendous amount of dimming in the first couple hundred hours. At a thousand hours on bright the lamp will be hard pressed to make half the light it did new. To me the lamp on the 92840 is getting close to last gasps at 1200-1300 hours. That is basically change time for me. I don't see the point of having a 4 thousand dollar television and get a sub-par picture out of it. This is the AVS forum an "Enthusiasts" forum. This is place is more about getting the most out of our sets not the most out of our lamps. As the man said the lamps dim with use. What's more the light changes color. So if you had the set calibrated at 300 hours it is way out at a 1200 hours, so not only is it dim, it gets ugly too...

The point has been made if you have an 82840 you may make enough light that running the lamp on standard is a viable option for you. I do not use my 92840 strictly for movies in a bat cave environment and running the lamp on Bright is a necessity to reach tolerable light levels for any daytime use at all. I don't know how much faster the lamp dims on Bright than standard but wattage difference is around 15%,, The trend is to use higher and higher levels of light output on calibrated sets than in the past. I personally prefer a little bit of ambient light in the room even at night. These 92s might be able to make 40 ft lamberts with the lamp on bright if they are measured and calibrated the first hour the lamp is new... but it doesn't last very long and pretty quickly you are in the low 30s and it declines from there. The Samsung plasma that just won the 2013 VE shootout was set to 40 ft lamberts after dark calibration and will go much higher. 50 even 60 ft lamberts would be good thing on a set that gets used during the day.

One of the reasons the Samsung won the shootout was it could make 60 ft lamberts for day time to use and still be pretty accurate on color. Essentially the big Sammy Plasma has an LCD level of brightness our of a plasma.

I am at about 300 hours now on lamp 3 and I will put the meter on the set next week and auto-calibrate. It looks fairly reasonable now that the lamp has burned in but the faces seem a bit red.. Chromapure and the Radiance XS will fix that right up. Brand new improved version of ChromaPure so it should be interesting.
Edited by gtgray - 6/16/13 at 5:27pm
post #3853 of 3948
OK so I have a dilemma. I'm close to selling my Samsung 65F6300 lcd because I'm just not liking the overly bright look of it. I previously had a 2007 Samsung DLP and preferred the more "film-like, organic" look of that as opposed to the more "digital" look of an lcd. I was planning on replacing the 65F6300 with a 65S60. Yesterday a friend called and is looking to sell a 2011 73" Mitsubishi DLP (73840) for just $500. It belonged to a family member who died recently and just wants to get rid of it. I know DLPs have plenty of their own issues like replacing lamps, bad color wheels and possible geometry/overscan. I still have to check it out in person but if it checks out OK then it could be a tremendous deal. Any thoughts would be appreciated.
post #3854 of 3948
Quote:
Originally Posted by Charlie Kocis View Post

OK so I have a dilemma. I'm close to selling my Samsung 65F6300 lcd because I'm just not liking the overly bright look of it. I previously had a 2007 Samsung DLP and preferred the more "film-like, organic" look of that as opposed to the more "digital" look of an lcd. I was planning on replacing the 65F6300 with a 65S60. Yesterday a friend called and is looking to sell a 2011 73" Mitsubishi DLP (73840) for just $500. It belonged to a family member who died recently and just wants to get rid of it. I know DLPs have plenty of their own issues like replacing lamps, bad color wheels and possible geometry/overscan. I still have to check it out in person but if it checks out OK then it could be a tremendous deal. Any thoughts would be appreciated.

Since this is a Mitsubishi DLP thread, you're probably going to only get positive comments on the Mitsubishi DLPs. I think it's a great deal since I have 4 Mitsubishi DLPs (92842, 82740, 73833 and 65738). I'm sorry that they stopped making them because I've always felt that the DLPs were the most screen for the buck. Good luck with your 73840 if you end up buying it. smile.gif
post #3855 of 3948
overscan sucks on DLP, with that said. Geometry is usually ok after the x33 series, but could be present in any of them. I have had the pleasure of owning 3 different models, 73833, 73835, and 73740.

I currently own a 73835 and have chosen to sell the 73740 ( apps and 3D built in).

I feel that the 73835 is much brighter than the 73740, Better contrasts between blacks and white. (diamond series again)

The one you speak of is the 73840 , Diamond Series.

It has the protective shield, and the soundbar, apps, 3d and was pretty much the accolade of what Mits accomplished in the 8 years or so it marketed DLP projection units.

For $500 , if space is not of the concern that is a no brainer. I currently have a 73740 on craigslist for $900 and its a 1.5 years old. I sold a 73833 for $800 two years ago. So 4 years old at that point. DLP will hold some value on the used market. Not to compare but your circumstances are they want to get rid of it as soon as possible to move on, and likely realize the deep discount they are giving you / or someone else looking at it. Those 3D adapters prior to 2010 are like gold. Those things go between 350-450 on ebay.

You have the following issues in the future:
Bulbs,
Color Wheels
DMD boards.

Thats about it. and all of those are fairly inexpensive to repair if needed. Many are DYI fixes. Once you open up a DLP you will see that there isnt much to them, A boards c boards / control boards, power supply, and optical engine ( which slides out very neatly) for maintainence.

I think a 73840 for $500 is an amazing value. and DLP is a very smooth picture that is hard to match on Value LCD
post #3856 of 3948
If you don't buy it I will. Where is it located?
post #3857 of 3948
The two things a non-DLP rear projector owner should understand that are different from all other animals out in the wild these days is overscan and the lack of instant on and instant off. A 73840 set to bright will make more than enough light for all but the brightest environments. You may find the set only has a few hundred hours on it. The price is right if you can get home in one piece.
post #3858 of 3948
Quote:
Originally Posted by Augerhandle View Post

If you don't buy it I will. Where is it located?
Toledo, Ohio. He has it on Craigslist for $800 firm, but would sell it to me for $500.

Like I said I had an HLT-6187 Samsung DLP for 5.5 years before the DLP chip started developing white dots. I know I could have fixed it myself for about $150. The nice thing about the Samsung is that it was an LED backlight so I never had to worry about it burning out like a traditional bulb. Transporting it would be an issue as well and even if it has good geometry/overscan now it could all be screwed up if it takes too many bumps on the way home. It would also mean getting a new stand and selling off the old one, and finding a spot in an already cluttered house in the meantime.
post #3859 of 3948
I have been reading this thread for a while now. I have a question for anyone with the 82740 model. I have noticed "noise" and badly cluttered imaging on sports when spanned out like in football when the cameras pan out to show the formation before a play starts. Up close clear as a bell and great picture and color.

I have turned down sharpness and I am using quality cables in the connection. I have it hooked to uverse and read the back and forth threads about that. All I know is I had a 67" Samsung LED DLP and this TV 82740)on dish and I never saw it or noticed. The noise around details when full motion of sports is very bad now. BLURAY and PS3 look fantastic.

I may have to dump this because I think it's the uverse compression showing up since displaying a picture on such a large area and the faults can be seen. Do you all experience this with this TV?

anything on the 82740 I should try to clean that noise up? Or am I back to DTV?
post #3860 of 3948
Quote:
Originally Posted by RobertVT View Post

I have been reading this thread for a while now. I have a question for anyone with the 82740 model. I have noticed "noise" and badly cluttered imaging on sports when spanned out like in football when the cameras pan out to show the formation before a play starts. Up close clear as a bell and great picture and color.

I have turned down sharpness and I am using quality cables in the connection. I have it hooked to uverse and read the back and forth threads about that. All I know is I had a 67" Samsung LED DLP and this TV 82740)on dish and I never saw it or noticed. The noise around details when full motion of sports is very bad now. BLURAY and PS3 look fantastic.

I may have to dump this because I think it's the uverse compression showing up since displaying a picture on such a large area and the faults can be seen. Do you all experience this with this TV?

anything on the 82740 I should try to clean that noise up? Or am I back to DTV?

82740 here with Directv and Antenna. I don't have that issue from either source on a regular basis. Seems like I have noticed it once or twice on Directv, but I think it was their source or camera.
post #3861 of 3948
I just purchased a 92840 from a private seller. Unit is exactly 1 year old with 3900 hours on it. I'm upgrading from a beloved 73736 that has been a great workhorse.

I've searched thru the thread here, and can't seem to find a definitive answer. I'm a BestBuy Premiere Silver member. Should I do the free calibration?

Thanks in advance.
post #3862 of 3948
I wouldn't let BestBuy touch anything of mine.
post #3863 of 3948
Where is everybody getting there replacement lamps and at what cost?
post #3864 of 3948
I get mine direct from Mitsubishi. I've read too many horror stories here in the forums regarding aftermarket lamps that only last 500 hours and malfunctioning or damaged TVs. One may find a good aftermarket lamp somewhere, but it's not worth the risk to me.
post #3865 of 3948
Was there ever a useful Android App that would control the 2011 sets. I have come to depend largely on JRiver and I can run JRiver with JRemote not as smoothly as a good Windows Media Center Remote but okay. I also have an App that works with my Denon AVR-2112ci. A Mits app would be nice.
post #3866 of 3948
Also forgot to ask. Was the DLP chip (white dots) issue fixed by the time our sets were made? Or do I have to look forward to spending $200 to fix my 92840 down the road?
post #3867 of 3948
Quote:
Originally Posted by scottt27 View Post

Also forgot to ask. Was the DLP chip (white dots) issue fixed by the time our sets were made? Or do I have to look forward to spending $200 to fix my 92840 down the road?

I haven't seen this on any of the following models I have:

WD-73833
WD-65738
WD-82740 or
WD-92842

so I wouldn't worry about it since it may be only an occasional issue...
post #3868 of 3948
2 questions.

Best/cheap 3D glasses for WD-82840?

And I am currently fighting the urge to sell my tv to get a front projector and screen. What price to you guys think I could sale tv for? It has around 1200 hours. Bought last April.
post #3869 of 3948
Quote:
Originally Posted by kahmeal View Post

Has anyone else run into this problem/fixed it? WD-73740 using an HTPC with Geforce GT520 HDMI out (1.4a compliant card and cable) directly to the TV. Audio passed through HDMI and out from the TV via digital coax to my receiver. My problem is, whenever I watch a 3d movie in native 3d mode (1080p 24hz) the TV displays it fine but ends up displaying the "No signal, TV will turn off in one minute" message and unless I press a button on the remote it does in fact turn off. I've tried 23hz & 24hz, passing audio directly to receiver instead of through HDMI, nothing fixes it. It seems to be directly related to the 3d resolution mode as the issue does not occur in regular 1080p. Likewise I have no issues playing back checkerboard/sbs content and manually specifying the 3d mode on the TV. Short of trying another computer with a completely different video card, I'm out of ideas. Anyone?

I've been searching for a solution for this issue for almost two years and finally figured one out. I set the input name (Menu >> Inputs >> Name) to Blu-Ray instead of PC then this issue went away. So, if you're receiving the message "No signal, TV will turn off in one minute" when watching 3D video from your PC, changing the input name may fix it.
post #3870 of 3948
Quote:
Originally Posted by mit82 View Post

2 questions.

Best/cheap 3D glasses for WD-82840?

Dunno about the best but these are some of the cheapest decent ones you'll find:

http://www.amazon.com/PlayStation-3-3D-Glasses/dp/B00562O8U0/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1377239992&sr=8-1&keywords=ps3+3d+glasses

I have 4 pairs and they work great.
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