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2011 Mitsubishi 3D DLP Owners Thread (740/840 series) - Page 130

post #3871 of 3948
Quote:
Originally Posted by scottt27 View Post

I just purchased a 92840 from a private seller. Unit is exactly 1 year old with 3900 hours on it. I'm upgrading from a beloved 73736 that has been a great workhorse.

I've searched thru the thread here, and can't seem to find a definitive answer. I'm a BestBuy Premiere Silver member. Should I do the free calibration?

Thanks in advance.


Actually, I would not let Best Buy do it they are clueless. The real way to do it is to buy a Lumagen 3D Mini, a meter and software from ChromaPure and do it yourself. Calibrating color at one intensity or saturation won't get it right on these sets. They are not linear.

With the Lumagen you are adjusting the color at 125 points. With the 92840 you need to start in Bright picture mode. You set the white point with the greyscale contrast controls in the Service Menu. Once 100 percent white is correct, auto-calibrate with ChromaPure and the Lumagen will do the whole thing automatically.

Beside the set being non-linear which is why you can't calibrate it properly with the built in CMS, the color gamut in Natural or Advanced mode does not provide a properly saturated blue. That is in Natural or Advanced Modes blue has too much white in it, with blue set as blue as it will go in those modes it can not hit target. In Bright mode all the color is oversaturated.

That means a video processor can pull an oversaturated color's saturation into the target point. So with a Lumagen or certain other outboard devices you can essentially bring the color down to the proper points on the triangle, A DVDO DUO can also do this but not that is just a 6 color and grayscale. So if you get the DUO and start in bright you can get 100 percent intensity right, or 75 percent right not both, nor can you get right at 25,50 and 75% saturations. How the set looks auto-calibrated with a Lumagen and how it looks with the built in controls is much more than the difference between BestBuy and what a pro can do. A pro can't fix the CMS only an outboard box can get color right on these sets. There are boxes out there that can calibrate 4000 plus colors.... so they can essentially make the set perfect the downside is they are not designed for calibrating multiple inputs. The EE Color box is such a device but you will need some switching say a DVDO Edge or something like that with it.

The other thing keep in mind is that when you calibrated 125 colors to near zero error you are also correcting millions of colors because interpolation is used to correct the colors in between. 125 is great, 4000 plus begins to get you to studio reference level image quality. This kind of calibration is called 3D LUT...for look up table.

The last thing to keep in mind is that when you have the lights on in the room glare on the clear screen desaturates all the colors. If you need the lights on in the room, the more off axis and more subdued the lighting the less it impacts image quality. If you have not seen one of the sets calibrated with an outboard 3D LUT table type processor like a Lumagen you have not seen one calibrated. Honestly, any other approach might as well be waving a rubber chicken in front of the set. Yes greyscale can be done with the built in controls but calibrating the rest without an outboard processor is basically faking it.
post #3872 of 3948
Quote:
Originally Posted by gtgray View Post

Actually, I would not let Best Buy do it they are clueless. The real way to do it is to buy a Lumagen 3D Mini, a meter and software from ChromaPure and do it yourself. Calibrating color at one intensity or saturation won't get it right on these sets. They are not linear.

With the Lumagen you are adjusting the color at 125 points. With the 92840 you need to start in Bright picture mode. You set the white point with the greyscale contrast controls in the Service Menu. Once 100 percent white is correct, auto-calibrate with ChromaPure and the Lumagen will do the whole thing automatically.

Beside the set being non-linear which is why you can't calibrate it properly with the built in CMS, the color gamut in Natural or Advanced mode does not provide a properly saturated blue. That is in Natural or Advanced Modes blue has too much white in it, with blue set as blue as it will go in those modes it can not hit target. In Bright mode all the color is oversaturated.

That means a video processor can pull an oversaturated color's saturation into the target point. So with a Lumagen or certain other outboard devices you can essentially bring the color down to the proper points on the triangle, A DVDO DUO can also do this but not that is just a 6 color and grayscale. So if you get the DUO and start in bright you can get 100 percent intensity right, or 75 percent right not both, nor can you get right at 25,50 and 75% saturations. How the set looks auto-calibrated with a Lumagen and how it looks with the built in controls is much more than the difference between BestBuy and what a pro can do. A pro can't fix the CMS only an outboard box can get color right on these sets. There are boxes out there that can calibrate 4000 plus colors.... so they can essentially make the set perfect the downside is they are not designed for calibrating multiple inputs. The EE Color box is such a device but you will need some switching say a DVDO Edge or something like that with it.

The other thing keep in mind is that when you calibrated 125 colors to near zero error you are also correcting millions of colors because interpolation is used to correct the colors in between. 125 is great, 4000 plus begins to get you to studio reference level image quality. This kind of calibration is called 3D LUT...for look up table.

The last thing to keep in mind is that when you have the lights on in the room glare on the clear screen desaturates all the colors. If you need the lights on in the room, the more off axis and more subdued the lighting the less it impacts image quality. If you have not seen one of the sets calibrated with an outboard 3D LUT table type processor like a Lumagen you have not seen one calibrated. Honestly, any other approach might as well be waving a rubber chicken in front of the set. Yes greyscale can be done with the built in controls but calibrating the rest without an outboard processor is basically faking it.

I have strongly been considering the lumagen for my 73835. I already have an i1pro and use Calman. You are 100% right that the cms controls are useless due to the non-linearity. I keep going back and forth if i want to invest the $$$ for the lumagen considering i may ditch the mits all together in a yr or so. I know the lumagen can be used on any set but it may not be needed.
Edited by njfoses - 8/25/13 at 6:49pm
post #3873 of 3948
Lumagen has just announced their latest Video Processors now support 729 color calibration. ChromaPure, Calman and Light Source are all rushing out new versions of their calibration suites to support automated calibration with the bigger color set on these new Lumagens.

I just have spent a couple of years of AVS budget on health issues in the household so I won't be upgrading anytime soon. The firmware that allows this won't run on earlier models due to space limitations of the chipset.
post #3874 of 3948
Posted this on the Darbee thread but got only 1 reply.

Any Mitsubishi RP DLP owners (not Laserview) using a Darbee?

What kind of results are you seeing? Do you view in a completely darkened room?

I always thought viewing looked more 3 dimensional on my 73-742 than plasma, LCD etc. so I'm curious if the Darbee offers that much of an improvement on RP DLPs.

Appreciate your thoughts.
post #3875 of 3948
I have several DLPs but sent my Darbee back because the video results didn't seem to change much using it to justify the cost of the Darbee. Also, the DLP kept thinking there was a new device every time I turned it on using the Darbee so just didn't think it was worth the hassle as well.
Edited by lujan - 10/3/13 at 3:53pm
post #3876 of 3948
Quote:
Originally Posted by lujan View Post

I have several DLPs but sent my Darbee back because the video results didn't seemed to change much using it to justify the cost of the Darbee. Also, the DLP kept thinking there was a new device every time I turned it on using the Darbee so just didn't think it was worth the hassle as well.

Thanks much.

Yeah, I had a configuration once where the DLP kept thinking there was a new device every time I turned it on. Pain in the butt.
post #3877 of 3948
Quote:
Originally Posted by Repdetect View Post

Thanks much.

Yeah, I had a configuration once where the DLP kept thinking there was a new device every time I turned it on. Pain in the butt.

Mine did in the beginning but after use for a few days it stopped setting a new device and just accepted the Darby. I would give it a few days to see if it does accept it.
post #3878 of 3948
Quote:
Originally Posted by bsoko2 View Post

Mine did in the beginning but after use for a few days it stopped setting a new device and just accepted the Darbee. I would give it a few days to see if it does accept it.

Not to be a shill for Darbee, but Darbee processing is integrated into the latest Lumagens also there is a new Oppo with Darbee processing the 103D I believe. The benefits are undeniable and the fact that bed Blu-Ray maker and Video Processor maker have adopted should be testimony enough.

The Darblet is funny beast with regard to handshaking it does not like to see power blips, I have a very early example. Fortunately my whole setup is on UPS.

I previously did my HDMI switching at my Radiance and the Mitsubishi would go through periods of seeing a new device always Darbee related.... how Mitsubishis handles device detection on HDMI is just plain brain dead but for non-related reasons I started doing all my HDMI switching at my AVR. So now my HDMI chain works like this: Source (usually HTPC, I have more than one)>Denon 2112ci>Lumagen Radiance>Darbee Darblet>92840 and there is zero of the handshake, new device, which HDMI port nonsense on the part of the 92840. Totally stable. I use JRiver with both HD Homerun and Ceton Cable Cards.. all very nicely controlled by the HP Remote that shipped with HP Windows Media Center Extender. It run Media Center, the Denon and the Mitsubishi. If for some reason I need to mess with the Darbee or the Radiance I get those remotes out which is rare. Although the HP Remote will not do input switching on the Denon, my smartphone will and it is always nearby.
post #3879 of 3948
I want to express my continuing great satisfaction with my 92840. I was never that enamored of my 82837. It just did not put out the light or even come close to the image the 92840 produces, Now the Lumagen gets the color right and the Darbee dramatically improves the perceived sharpness. I wasn't lucky enough to have bought my 92840 for $2500 like some here but I didn't pay anything remotely close to suggested price either. My Lumagen came with a meter and software and was around $2100 so with the Darbee I have maybe $6400 in this configuration. That is an eye popping amount of money but the image is better than you could get out a 90" Sharp with out the video processing and I have 6K on this set already. It was new in December 2011.

So even now you can not duplicate the size and image for less than probably $10500. There will come a time when there are viable alternatives to this beast but it won't be until 90 plus inch 4K sets are in 4K range and we HDMI 2.1. I won't hold my breath.
post #3880 of 3948
Quote:
Originally Posted by gtgray View Post

Not to be a shill for Darbee, but Darbee processing is integrated into the latest Lumagens also there is a new Oppo with Darbee processing the 103D I believe. The benefits are undeniable and the fact that bed Blu-Ray maker and Video Processor maker have adopted should be testimony enough.

Oppo and Lumagen picking up the Darbee processing and Curt Palme selling them is what pushed me off the fence about getting a Darblet.
Quote:
Originally Posted by gtgray View Post

The Darblet is funny beast with regard to handshaking it does not like to see power blips, I have a very early example. Fortunately my whole setup is on UPS.

I just got a Darblet on saturday. It does seem to be picky... first impressions weren't good because apparently it didn't like one of my HDMI cables and I got sparkles all over the image. eek.gif Not really a welcome sight being a DLP owner as it nearly made my heart skip. I tried it with my HTPC and PS3 on my 73640 and didn't seem to have any handshake issues. The one weird thing is when I reboot my HTPC everything is tinted magenta, even the Windows 8 logo up until it boots up the tiles then the magenta tint is gone.
post #3881 of 3948
Quote:
Originally Posted by gtgray View Post

Not to be a shill for Darbee, but Darbee processing is integrated into the latest Lumagens also there is a new Oppo with Darbee processing the 103D I believe. The benefits are undeniable and the fact that bed Blu-Ray maker and Video Processor maker have adopted should be testimony enough.

The Darblet is funny beast with regard to handshaking it does not like to see power blips, I have a very early example. Fortunately my whole setup is on UPS.

I previously did my HDMI switching at my Radiance and the Mitsubishi would go through periods of seeing a new device always Darbee related.... how Mitsubishis handles device detection on HDMI is just plain brain dead but for non-related reasons I started doing all my HDMI switching at my AVR. So now my HDMI chain works like this: Source (usually HTPC, I have more than one)>Denon 2112ci>Lumagen Radiance>Darbee Darblet>92840 and there is zero of the handshake, new device, which HDMI port nonsense on the part of the 92840. Totally stable. I use JRiver with both HD Homerun and Ceton Cable Cards.. all very nicely controlled by the HP Remote that shipped with HP Windows Media Center Extender. It run Media Center, the Denon and the Mitsubishi. If for some reason I need to mess with the Darbee or the Radiance I get those remotes out which is rare. Although the HP Remote will not do input switching on the Denon, my smartphone will and it is always nearby.

The main reason that I returned the Darbee was because the DLP kept seeing a new device every time I turned on the TV. Didn't think it was worth the frustration also because I didn't notice a big picture difference as well.
post #3882 of 3948
Just a 73740 owner checking in, it's been awhile

We still love our 73740.......
It's given us some great movie, gaming, and sports memories, but it past time for a new bulb.
The menu code says 18,055 hours on this original bulb, and from what I've read it will feel like a new TV once replaced

Thanks everyone for all the great advice I've read on here
It's best to get it from the manufacture instead of getting the cheaper bulbs/models on Amazon
If I'm understanding things correctly
post #3883 of 3948
Quote:
Originally Posted by SquirrelyBama View Post

Just a 73740 owner checking in, it's been awhile

We still love our 73740.......
It's given us some great movie, gaming, and sports memories, but it past time for a new bulb.
The menu code says 18,055 hours on this original bulb, and from what I've read it will feel like a new TV once replaced

Thanks everyone for all the great advice I've read on here
It's best to get it from the manufacture instead of getting the cheaper bulbs/models on Amazon
If I'm understanding things correctly

I replace my lamp approximately every 6000hrs. You don't have to purchase from the manufacturer but do get an OEM lamp. Some sites may state OEM replacement which doesn't mean it's an OEM lamp. The hours are a set timer not a lamp timer so you'll have to keep track of the lamp hours manually with replacement.
post #3884 of 3948
post #3885 of 3948
OK I am back and reporting on this because I have tried to ignore it and talk myself into thinking the picture looks as good as it should. I have two DLP TVs in my house. I have a samsung hl67a750 LED DLP which contrary to some I prefer over my Mitsubishi WD-82740. I have tried everything and I cant seem to get this thing dialed in and clear as my Sammy.

1st off I like the high contrast "pop" picture. So natural is not what I am looking for. I have the Mitsubishi WD-82740 set at default Brilliant picture. I like it that way so this is basically just my perception and my preference. I had Uverse and just thought with IPTV that the picture when the sports spanned out became grainy based on the deficiencies of Uverse. So I decided to bite the bullet and went back to Direct TV thinking a better HD signal would improve this picture. I use this TV mostly for TV watching. I will say PS3, 3D movies look spectacular which is why I kept thinking this is a signal issue.

I am still not happy. My Sammy blows this away on the Sammy Brilliant default setting and the blacks and clarity are much better. Have to watch it straight on to look beautiful on the Sammy but the Sammy is killing this Mits 82 incher. I got the TV for TV watching for the most part and watching College Football in particular. So when the players are up close the picture looks sharp and vibrant and clear. When the picture spans out to show the field before the play starts the players look grainy and somewhat distorted. The Sammy I have is on Comcast HD and killing it. (Yes to be clear I have Comcast on the Sammy and DTV on the Mits)

I am not getting into a Sammy vs Mits since I have both I don't care. I just would think this TV would be comparable and maybe I have just missed something in the settings. Let me say up front I haven't performed any professional calibration on this TV but then again not on the Sammy either and as I posted above Sammy looks much better.

I just want the best out of this TV. Here is what I have for my settings so maybe someone can tell me where I might have a settings issue and not just a TV that isn't on par with my other.


So I have a Direct TV HD box with the display settings for the DTV box checked for 1080i & 1080P. I didn't check 720P or set the box to Native because of the cycling of the picture every time I change from a 720P broadcast to a 1080i one. So that is checked in the DTV box. I have a Onkyo TX-SR608. I have my Blu-ray, Apple TV and Direct TV going through the Onkyo and then using one HDMI to the Mits in the HDMI 1 input. Again, Blu-ray and Apple TV looks fine. I have the monitor out set to 1080P for up-scaling. I tried using "through" but saw no difference. I also tried "through" with the DTV box set up native but again that whole cycling the TV when the signal changes from 720 to 1080 was driving me nuts. So that is the reason I have it set to 1080P from the Onkyo. I could set to auto I guess but I see no difference either.

The TV is recognizing the signal as 1080P on the TV. I could use the TV to do this but again I hate the cycling and I have heard that while not great the Onkyo TXSR608 actually does a decent upscale job.

So am I missing something here? Like I said up close the images on the TV are great like in football but when it spans it gets grainy. I have to say not impressed and I have had it for over a year now. It isn't a dimness issue. It is almost like crappy signal. The bulb only has 2500 hours on it anyway. So I am not sure but I feel I should get more out of this unit. Again, I am not slamming this or comparing this to my Sammy other than I would think it would be as good if not better. Like all of us say you have to go by what looks good to you. Right now my Sammy still blows this thing out of the water in details. I can see it from the side much better than the Sammy but straight on not even close in clarity. What could be causing this grainy images when motion or lots of data like full spans during football action?

I thought maybe even a bad HDMI cable, but I switched out the ones I was using on the Blu Ray to it and it looked still grainy. Any help guys? Sorry for the long post but wanted to make sure I listed everything to get a good suggestion.

Thanks
post #3886 of 3948
Set the DTV to 1080p only. I don't know about your model but on my Onkyo I had to enter a code to turn off video processing because" through" was still processing the video. The Mits will upscale everything to 1080p regardless. What is the sharpness set at? If other sources look fine through the same path then there's definitely an issue with DTV and/or settings.
post #3887 of 3948
Have you updated the firmware? This model of TV has a known software bug that affects the picture.
post #3888 of 3948
Yes firmware is on 13.06 and I did turn down the sharpness all the way down to like 10 and that helped some on the grainy I think.

As for the Onkyo setting I have left it on 1080p out for everything and letting it upscale everything. That delay when the TV does it is irritating as many have stated before.


Maybe a calibration would improve the detail better? Can calibrations be set to clear it up and dial it in but keep the 'pop' picture I prefer in the brilliant setting?

thanks for responses
post #3889 of 3948
Had my 73740 for about a year and a half now. Replaced the first bulb about 8 months in and just ordered up another today (both direct from Mitsubishi).

I've noticed when the bulb is getting a bit long in the tooth, I will get some flashing in the picture - it's very subtle (my wife can't see it unless I pause the video), but it's definitely there. The flashing is most noticeable on bright or white content.

I had the same flashing right before I replaced the first bulb and was gone until just recently. FYI, both bulbs had about 6000 hours on them when the flashing started.

Is this just the bulb getting old, or is something else going on here?
post #3890 of 3948
Quote:
Originally Posted by Alan P View Post

Had my 73740 for about a year and a half now. Replaced the first bulb about 8 months in and just ordered up another today (both direct from Mitsubishi).

I've noticed when the bulb is getting a bit long in the tooth, I will get some flashing in the picture - it's very subtle (my wife can't see it unless I pause the video), but it's definitely there. The flashing is most noticeable on bright or white content.

I had the same flashing right before I replaced the first bulb and was gone until just recently. FYI, both bulbs had about 6000 hours on them when the flashing started.

Is this just the bulb getting old, or is something else going on here?
I've read several similar posts. Word is the lamp is getting old, so I would not worry about it. Some people switch to brilliant mode and it stops flashing.
post #3891 of 3948
Quote:
Originally Posted by Alan P View Post

...Is this just the bulb getting old, or is something else going on here?
I don't own this set (but my parents do, so I follow this thread to stay abreast of possible issues, etc.) However, I do own a Samsung DLP. So, in my experience, flickering may well be an aging lamp, but often it is a failing ballast. If you start having premature lamp failure, replace the ballast.
post #3892 of 3948
Quote:
Originally Posted by Augerhandle View Post

I've read several similar posts. Word is the lamp is getting old, so I would not worry about it. Some people switch to brilliant mode and it stops flashing.

Thanks, I'll try that brilliant mode trick next time she acts up.

Quote:
Originally Posted by 120inna55 View Post

I don't own this set (but my parents do, so I follow this thread to stay abreast of possible issues, etc.) However, I do own a Samsung DLP. So, in my experience, flickering may well be an aging lamp, but often it is a failing ballast. If you start having premature lamp failure, replace the ballast.

Is the ballast easy and/or inexpensive to replace? Where would I get one? On Mitsu's site I can only buy a lamp or a remote....
post #3893 of 3948
Quote:
Originally Posted by Alan P View Post

Is the ballast easy and/or inexpensive to replace? Where would I get one? On Mitsu's site I can only buy a lamp or a remote....
I don't want to mislead you. Again, this is my experience with my own Samsung DLP, not the Mitsubishi. It's my parents who have the Mitsubishi and they are not currently having the problem. I just assume the problem is endemic to all DLPs, that is, early lamp failure and especially a flickering lamp. That said, on my Samsung, ballast replacement is pretty straightforward, but it does mean removing the back panel and disconnecting some wires and sliding out the light engine. As scary as that sounds, it's only about a 10 minute procedure. The ballast for the Samsung cost me $80.

A flickering lamp can be simply an aging lamp, but in my experience with the Samsungs, it usually means failing ballast. Replacing said ballast proved to get far more life out of the lamps after that. In fact, when I order a lamp from Samsungparts (J&J International), there is a warning that if you are having early lamp failure, you should just automatically replace the ballast.
post #3894 of 3948
Thanks for that....but I think I'll wait and see what happens on this 3rd lamp before digging into my TVs guts. smile.gif

I did find a ballast for my TV online for about $75, so not bad if I end up needing one. And, who knows....before this 3rd lamp dies, I just may have a different TV. wink.gif
post #3895 of 3948
Quote:
Originally Posted by Alan P View Post

Thanks for that....but I think I'll wait and see what happens on this 3rd lamp before digging into my TVs guts. smile.gif

I did find a ballast for my TV online for about $75, so not bad if I end up needing one. And, who knows....before this 3rd lamp dies, I just may have a different TV. wink.gif
Here's a video just to give you an idea as to how simple a ballast replacement is. This is a Mitsubishi, not the same model, but it gives you an idea: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Wuy75C_HRb4
post #3896 of 3948
Hey Everyone,

I need an opinion on an issue I'm having.

I have a WD-82740. I've had it since March 2012.

In the time I've had it, it's gone through 2 major moves not including the initial shipment to me. Needless to say it's a monster to move and it probably hasn't been handled with the best of care but I've done what I can and it's never shown any previous signs of damage. I watch TV regularly but since I've had it, because of those moves, there have been a couple of multi month stretches where the TV was in storage and not in use.


A couple of days ago a freak power surge hit my apartment. The TV is on a pretty hefty media surge protector.

Immediately after that, the TV started taking forever to turn on. Yesterday the TV refused to display a picture at first try. Then after unplugging it, it turned on but I never saw the blue Mitsubishi screen, the picture just sorta faded onto the screen. Today, the TV won't display at all. When the TV powers on, I have to told down the power button for the TV to shut off. When I try to turn it back on, the status light flashes rapidly before the status light comes on. It never flashes red in any form or fashion that I can tell. Through all this, there doesn't seem to be any consistency in what happens when I try to turn on the TV. Sometimes the status light is immediately solid and sometimes it flashes before it goes solid. The 2 consistencies are that I have to hold down the power button to turn off the TV and that I never got a picture. When I looked around the back of the TV, it was abundantly clear the lamp was off.

So I unplugged the TV and removed the lamp cartridge. It looked intact. Didn't look burned out. Didn't look like there were any issues with it.


I'm probably just being a little paranoid because I don't want it to be a bigger problem but do you guys think it's just that the lamp went out as normal? I've had DLPs before and I'm no stranger to lamps going out but this is the first time I've had lamp issues with this particular TV and given that it happened just after a power surge and the fact that the TV still powers on (previous DLPs I've had won't even start up if the lamp was out or missing) make me wonder if I really need to be going to my local service center instead of just ordering a new lamp. The timing feels way too coincidental or I wouldn't even bat an eyelash.

So what do you guys think? I've given about as much information on my problem and the TV's overall history. Do you think my lamp just went out as normal (with the blub showing no physical signs when I examined it) or do you think the power surge screwed with the TV enough that it's more than a simple lamp replacement?



EDIT: Additional info. When I hit the power button, I don't hear the click sound you normally hear when a DLP turns on. I assume that click is the fact that the lamp isn't turning on? Also, I can verify that the fan is running but then stops pretty quickly as there is nothing to cool with the lamp not on.
Edited by vikmars - 11/6/13 at 6:04pm
post #3897 of 3948
Well you should have a spare lamp on hand anyway. If you plan on repairing the set regardless just get a lamp and try it first.
post #3898 of 3948
Count the error code blinks next time. There should be two sets of blinks, separated by a pause. The first set is the first digit (10s) of the error code, the second set is the second digit (1s), as in 4 6 equals 46
post #3899 of 3948
Quote:
Originally Posted by Alan P View Post

Had my 73740 for about a year and a half now. Replaced the first bulb about 8 months in and just ordered up another today (both direct from Mitsubishi).

I've noticed when the bulb is getting a bit long in the tooth, I will get some flashing in the picture - it's very subtle (my wife can't see it unless I pause the video), but it's definitely there. The flashing is most noticeable on bright or white content.

I had the same flashing right before I replaced the first bulb and was gone until just recently. FYI, both bulbs had about 6000 hours on them when the flashing started.

Is this just the bulb getting old, or is something else going on here?

OK, I was mistaken - it's more like 3000 hours on each bulb (just checked the hours last night, and I'm on a total of 6300). So, probably the ballast, eh?
post #3900 of 3948
Quote:
Originally Posted by RobertVT View Post

OK I am back and reporting on this because I have tried to ignore it and talk myself into thinking the picture looks as good as it should. I have two DLP TVs in my house. I have a samsung hl67a750 LED DLP which contrary to some I prefer over my Mitsubishi WD-82740. I have tried everything and I cant seem to get this thing dialed in and clear as my Sammy.

1st off I like the high contrast "pop" picture. So natural is not what I am looking for. I have the Mitsubishi WD-82740 set at default Brilliant picture. I like it that way so this is basically just my perception and my preference. I had Uverse and just thought with IPTV that the picture when the sports spanned out became grainy based on the deficiencies of Uverse. So I decided to bite the bullet and went back to Direct TV thinking a better HD signal would improve this picture. I use this TV mostly for TV watching. I will say PS3, 3D movies look spectacular which is why I kept thinking this is a signal issue.

I am still not happy. My Sammy blows this away on the Sammy Brilliant default setting and the blacks and clarity are much better. Have to watch it straight on to look beautiful on the Sammy but the Sammy is killing this Mits 82 incher. I got the TV for TV watching for the most part and watching College Football in particular. So when the players are up close the picture looks sharp and vibrant and clear. When the picture spans out to show the field before the play starts the players look grainy and somewhat distorted. The Sammy I have is on Comcast HD and killing it. (Yes to be clear I have Comcast on the Sammy and DTV on the Mits)

I am not getting into a Sammy vs Mits since I have both I don't care. I just would think this TV would be comparable and maybe I have just missed something in the settings. Let me say up front I haven't performed any professional calibration on this TV but then again not on the Sammy either and as I posted above Sammy looks much better.

I just want the best out of this TV. Here is what I have for my settings so maybe someone can tell me where I might have a settings issue and not just a TV that isn't on par with my other.


So I have a Direct TV HD box with the display settings for the DTV box checked for 1080i & 1080P. I didn't check 720P or set the box to Native because of the cycling of the picture every time I change from a 720P broadcast to a 1080i one. So that is checked in the DTV box. I have a Onkyo TX-SR608. I have my Blu-ray, Apple TV and Direct TV going through the Onkyo and then using one HDMI to the Mits in the HDMI 1 input. Again, Blu-ray and Apple TV looks fine. I have the monitor out set to 1080P for up-scaling. I tried using "through" but saw no difference. I also tried "through" with the DTV box set up native but again that whole cycling the TV when the signal changes from 720 to 1080 was driving me nuts. So that is the reason I have it set to 1080P from the Onkyo. I could set to auto I guess but I see no difference either.

The TV is recognizing the signal as 1080P on the TV. I could use the TV to do this but again I hate the cycling and I have heard that while not great the Onkyo TXSR608 actually does a decent upscale job.

So am I missing something here? Like I said up close the images on the TV are great like in football but when it spans it gets grainy. I have to say not impressed and I have had it for over a year now. It isn't a dimness issue. It is almost like crappy signal. The bulb only has 2500 hours on it anyway. So I am not sure but I feel I should get more out of this unit. Again, I am not slamming this or comparing this to my Sammy other than I would think it would be as good if not better. Like all of us say you have to go by what looks good to you. Right now my Sammy still blows this thing out of the water in details. I can see it from the side much better than the Sammy but straight on not even close in clarity. What could be causing this grainy images when motion or lots of data like full spans during football action?

I thought maybe even a bad HDMI cable, but I switched out the ones I was using on the Blu Ray to it and it looked still grainy. Any help guys? Sorry for the long post but wanted to make sure I listed everything to get a good suggestion.

Thanks

Depending on your willingness to invest in the set the correct answer to dramatically improved the image on the 82740 is to properly calibrate it using external color management via either a Radiance Lumagen or an EEColorbox and something like ChromaPure or SpectraCal. Once you do that you have a totally different television. You will do it in Bright... Brilliant worthless for anything resembling accurate color. You can have a bright snappy picture with dead spot on color.. That is hopeless with any of the preset modes or in Advance Mode. The CMS is not linear.. external color 3D Color Look UP Tables are required. The EE Colorbox is about$700 a pro can do the calibration and you don't have to buy a meter and software. The Colorbox will correctly set 4000 plus colors and interpolate to near perfect anything in between 4000. This kind of image is not available on your Sammy without an external color management processor either. In fact just about any display needs such a device to get color right. Some pro monitors have a similar capability built in. Pefect color/Perfect Tint may be the name for the CMS in the Mits but it is just crap, totally crap. I spent 3 years messing around with an 82837 then the 92840. I bought a Radiance XS and ChromaPure automatic and magic astonishing color... The XS is no match for current Lumagens or the EE Color... but you can still get color to an error level dE 1 or so on average... A pro with a high end meter and a late Lumagen or EEColor could get it to nearly dE of zero. The lamp needs to be on bright btw.
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