2011 Mitsubishi 3D DLP Owners Thread (740/840 series) - Page 30

Perfect Color and Perfect Tint are for adjusting color in the preset modes. You would really need a meter and software to do this. In some model years it was of limited value because blue luminance could not be controlled. It is a more convenient control to use than what is in Advanced Mode for color adjust. Either method if it the controls work properly is okay. Advanced mode has a full set of grayscale controls to go along with it its color management.

I can not speak to how well these controls work on the 2010-2011 sets. The grayscale controls work well, it is the color controls that suffered from being clunky, lacking precsion, repeatability as well as in the case of the color blue a lack of a sufficient range of authority. The other bit about the color controls is that blue and red tend toward desaturation. Not having calibnrated a 2011 I can't speak to how improved these controls behave whether in advanced mode, or the Perfect Color, Perfect Tint twins in the preset mode operate.

It is not like they should not work well, the interfaces are straightforward. It is just they were basically either poorly implemented or not well debugged.

Mits sets have been been traditionally hard to calibrate to a pro level. You will see those comments when you do see Pros speak about calibrating Mits DLPs. I personally use an External Video Processor as the 2009 model was especially troublesome, especially blue. As for the underaturation, the results can be pretty weird if you try to calibrate one of the modes with the wider gamuts like Bright or Brilliant. I did a full calibration in Bright the other night with the help of my Video Processor and although it measured okay... it looked plain weird. I am not sure why. I hit the color targets at 75% but maybe it was way off at other levels of stimulus.

You should have better luck with a more modern graphics card. The newer ones from Nivida and AMD are very good at handling audio over HDMI.

You might want to set the DVR to upscale everything to 1080i if you have that capability. That way there is no resolution change when you change channels.

Wasn't the "clear screen" important to you?

Not enough to justify the big price difference. I got this one for a steel and couldn't resist.

I am a little surprised to hear that you don't like the picture quality on your new 92" as much as your old 82". I previously had a Diamond 73" with a very good picture and my new 92840 is much better. Not bad for a screen so much larger. Just out of curiosity, what settings are you using?

Well, I did it...I bought the WD-73740 on QVC yesterday for their 1 time deal at 1399. I have a 50 in SXRD, on it's 2nd optical block, but so far, doing great.

This Mit will be replacing the SONY in my theater room/basement.

"fingers crossed"

I am a little surprised to hear that you don't like the picture quality on your new 92" as much as your old 82". I previously had a Diamond 73" with a very good picture and my new 92840 is much better. Not bad for a screen so much larger. Just out of curiosity, what settings are you using?
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Hi,
I've had each and every Mits big screen starting with the the original (3) 9" gun model. I've always been happy with them.
I use just about the same settings "natural" (with color, tint variations) on all of them. For some reason my last 82" just had the clearest best picture of them all. One thing on all of them is that the first 50 hrs on the bulb are pretty lackluster.
The current 92" does give a good picture, I find it more LCD like than the others. Perhaps because of the screen. Reflections are very noticable, but not that distracting once you have a picture going (otherwise it's a nice large mirror!).
One thing for sure however is that a lower stand is almost a
necessity (my opinion). I had the 82" on a 16 inch stand but that proved a little too high on viewing the 92". Twelve to thirteen inch stand height is most likely ideal. Going from a 73 to 92 inch screen will probably be a "wow" factor. From 82 to 92......not so much.

Since the audio was AWOL, I went to Mitsubishi's alternate solution using the PC's digital coaxial output (RCA) to the 92840's digital input (stereo mini-plug). This was a bit tricky since I'm not really sure why the 92840 needs a stereo mini for the digital audio stream. All I could do is buy a RCA-miniplug adaptor from Radio Shack to hook it up. Still no sound! Another mystery! (Anyone know how to get this to work? My PC only has S/PDIF optical and S/PDIF coaxial for digital out).

One thing I know is the TV does NOT have a digital audio input other than HDMI. The mini-plug audio input on the TV labeled DVI/PC is an analog audio input. It is for PCs or other devices that have DVI outputs. DVI is video only and in those days, the audio was analog not digital. On most PCs, they had mini-plug stereo analog outputs.

As for you Dish network, try plugging in the componet cables to the TV Input 1 and then checking the menus for the Dish receiver to see if you need to turn on the HDMI output. Some older devices require turning on the HDMI in the menus because HDMI is not the default output.

And yes check your cable box/DVR for a setting that will set all output to 1080i. Since I watch very little of the 480i content, and my cable system groups all HD together, I leave the output set to 480i for SD and 1080i for all HD (to my eye the TV is better at the upconversion of SD than the cable box). The delays are not much of a problem but if you are frequently switching between SD and HD channels, you may perfer setting all output to 1080i.

That is a good point on size vis-a-vis "wow" factor. I went with a 14" stand on mine to give myself some component flexibility, but I don't think I would have liked anything higher. I also think bulb time is important. I waited for 100 or so hours before doing some rudimentary calibration (with serious professional calibration I think the recommendation is 200-300 hours), and the result is very pleasing. As you say, the Clear Contrast screen is a large mirror when it is off, but I believe it is a game changer when the TV is on. It adds a lot of clarity and detail.

What I had in mind with the settings was something I remember reading from a full-time calibrator. He said that, while the typical calibration took him about 3-4 hours, he had spent well upwards of 6 hours getting some sets adjusted to his satisfaction. He implied considerable variation among sets, even of the same type. You may have been very lucky with your last set and less so with this one. I may have been lucky with mine. But according to what I have read, most of them can be dialed-up with enough effort. I will be interested to hear your thoughts as you continue to tweak it up.

These last few posts answered some things I was going to ask - and they are: "should I have waited more than a week to attempt to calibrate my TV?" and "will I need to redo the calibration after some number of hours?"

I would love to do a professional calibration at some point... So I guess I need to start getting hours on the bulb

All of your comments are right on the mark. I believe 14" on the stand height will work for most. I sit about 12' from the screen. That 16" stand put me too far below the sweet spot for viewing at 12', but might
be perfect if you are a little further back. I really do feel the higher
contrast screen gives a more unified image (I call it "LCD" like). The colors (after a little help) are really very tight and pretty impressive.
Hopefully it will get better after several hundred hours on the bulb. I
did have the original bulb in my 82 after 2 years, so no complaints on bulb life here!

I found my problem, in the Mitsubishi WD-92840 3D Setup, the DLP LINK must be set to OFF for the XPAND 3DG-X103 glasses to work. The DLP LINK interferes with the IR signal.

Has anyone had success with their x40 series TV correctly processing the 3D from a Comcast box in "automatic" mode?

Whatever I do, the automatic mode fails to detect that the broadcast is in 3D. This is the same for both channels they have (ESPN3D and that other channel), or any of the On-Demand 3D movies. I have to manually enter the settings every time and change it to either "side-by-side" or "top-bottom" before the TV starts processing the 3D. And that's a lot of buttons to push every time to turn it on, and then to turn it off at the end.

So, I'm beginning to wonder which of the following is my problem:
a) Comcast's boxes don't support HDMI 1.4a (i.e., Comcast sucks).
b) I have an older box that doesn't support HDMI 1.4a (i.e., time to bother Comcast)
c) The automatic mode in my 73740 is broken (i.e., time to bother Mitsubishi)

I would love to hear from other Comcast and Mitsubishi combo users. Thanks!

I think that's right. By the way, I enjoyed your photos. Nice to be handy with tools. Wish I were.

Last night I discovered my error in assuming the PC audio input was digital when it is indeed analog. I should have looked more closely at the labeling. Anyway that's a big caveat in my book, if you don't have all HDMI devices, you will need to factor in some sort of component switcher, or most likely a receiver to handle digital audio. That definitly puts a crimp in the "Home Theater in a box" idea.

92" tv and HTIB? What's wrong with this picture?

Most likely the Comcast box is not sending the HDMI 1.4a 3D signal flag. That flag is what triggers the automatic mode. The reason there is a manual setting in the TV is becase so many of the cable boxes out in the world can send SBS or TB frame compatible siganls but cannot add the signal flag becasue of the box's age.

You should note that the TV can process SBS in 720p, 1080i or 1080p but can process TB correctly only in 720p and 1080p 24Hz. It cannot process TB correctly in 1080i or 1080p 60Hz. - these last two are not HDMI mandatory but can be available from some cable boxes.

I'll be watching tv(73740) and the tv will shut off and the green light starts blinking anyone know what this is about.

I've had this happen but only while I'm editing channels (like removing them after a channel scan). I would call Mitsubishi.

Six weeks ago I purchased my MIT 82840. Felt if I was going to upgrade to hd I might as well go all out and get 3D.

So held out for 2years with my sat160 directv tivo receiver. Finally upgrade to hd and buy a new set with 3d. Get a new directv receiver and now six weeks latter the new Tivo hd receiver is finally available. BUT at a cost of 5.00 more a month! This is in addition to 10.00 a month for HD and 7.00 dvr fee a month. I thought that this receiver would be state of the art, thus the long wait! NO, it is not 3d capable and does not get several other services like directv cinema score guide etc. Yes for 99.00 I can get the receiver. But why would I ? Yes I love the software, remote control but what do I do with my 3d tv. Tivo and directv- you blew it and we should pay more for less. What the hell was the long delay in releasing this receiver about?

Directv gave me a full new whole house 3D system for the instl price of $49.00. They should have found some incentives for you as an existing long time customer.

My wish list is for Mits to make a monitor version of the 92840. I don't need HTIB from Mits; I need them to take out the stupid speakers so I can use my far superior home theater system. They just want to jack up the price for the stupid speakers. I see Consumer Reports again ranks Mits as worst in reliability. If Sharp makes an 80" 3D next year, I think that will probably be the beginning of the end for Mits.

Even when a manufacturer's product improves in reliablity, it takes minumn of 3 years to show up in CR listings. These cover multiple years so nothing shows up in the first year of improvment.

Hello everyone, I just bought 73840 and I own 3D Samsung 46C750, I was told that I will not be able to use Samsung 2200AR 3D glasses with Mitsubishi. Are there glasses that I can use for both TV's?

Find an external IR emitter compatible with those glasses and plug it into the VESA port on the back of the mits. This would be your cheapest choice if you can find one.

The Xpand X103 are universal IR.

That's what I can think right now.

You might try the Xpand glasses made for Mitusbishi TVs, the 3DG-X103. The spec sheet indicates that they are compatible with the emitter from the Mitusbishi starter pack and that emitter was compatible with your Samsung glasses so it might work for both the Mitsubishi TV and the Samsung TV.

http://www.mitsubishi-tv.com/pdf/spe...G-EX103-V2.pdf

If your Samsung has an internal emitter like the Mitsubishi you might be able to get the XPand 103 Universal glasses... same price as the Mitsubishi specific XPand 103 model, but you just push a button to change what TV it will sync with.

Thank you all for your help.
So i have 2 options:
1. External emitter for Mitsubishi TV compatible with Samsung 3D glasses
2.XPand 103 Universal glasses that are compatible with both TV's
Do they have Xpand glasses with rechargeable batteries?

Do you know if WD-73840 compatible with Samsung's Smart Hub?

the 103 model does not have rechargeable but the 104 model that is due out soon (or just came out) is supposed to be rechargeable.