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Samsung LCD TV flashing/blinking like a strobe light - Page 3

post #61 of 92
Model: LA40B610A5R - Flickers like a disco.

After just a couple of years, my 40" Sammy has gone disco on me. I live overseas and ironically, repairs on equipment like this would cost me an absolute fortune! Does anyone have any clue which jumper I can cut to save my television?

Thank you and thanks for the thread!
post #62 of 92
After researching this same problem on the internet I have come to the conclusion that this has been a consistent problem with these tvs. I bought this same model brand new and after only a year the screen went out and did the same. Manufacturer wont cover because it was purchased outside of the year warranty.

After flickering my complete screen has gone dark, not sure if this jumper wil be a fix all now that Ive found this post a bit tooo late.
Edited by frankyc85 - 3/15/13 at 11:04am
post #63 of 92
Hi guys! I guess I've been lucky since my Samsung LN55C650 just started flashing after having it for almost 3 years. As I've painfully learned (from other experiences) it's better to first ask and then proceed. So I came here to this forum, reviewed all the posts and got all the instructions...

I'm very happy to inform that the solution works!! Well, at least for a few hours now. My TV set is working perfectly and the only thing I did was to cut a jumper.

Thank you all, very, very much. You really helped me (and helped me save a few bucks!)
post #64 of 92
Hello!Help please a have Samsung Series 6 LE40B650 - bn44-00264c
that jumper is supposed to control?
post #65 of 92
help please!
post #66 of 92
I recently had this issue with my LN55C650. Since it was out of warranty, Samsung refused to fix it or provide any help - worst customer service I've ever dealt with. Thankfully I found this forum and was able to fix it by cutting the jumper. Thanks so much!
post #67 of 92
My brother has this TV at about 18 mos. It is flickering when he changes sources only.

He can get it to stop by changing back, or sometimes it will keep flickering until he turns the set off and on again.

Same issue as reported here or different?

Many thanks for a reply.
post #68 of 92
Hi - I had the same problem with my 2010 Samsung. Was intermittent at first, would go away for months and then start up again. It's now been flickering 100% of the time for over a month. Found this thread and a few others all describing the same issue and the same fix. Here's the best description I found of the fix:

Took 10 minutes to get all the screws off the back and 1 minute to clip the wire (be sure to unplug your TV!!). It's totally worked!! BTW, I'm a female and have no experience or understanding of what the problem is - just followed the instructions!

Good luck!
post #69 of 92
I fixed the flashing on my brothers LN46C650 by snipping the 852 jumper on Power Supply p/n BN44-00341B. It works great! No one one seems to know why it was there to begin with.
post #70 of 92
per Dhagerty40:

LNxxC6xx series:

check the part number on the power supply.

if the part number is: BN44-00341B or BN44-00343B, cut jumper JP852

if the Part number is: BN44-0342B (55" Power supply), Cut jumper JP854

if this does not fix, the power supply needs to be replaced.

The LNT4053 is most likely being caused by Bulged and leaking capacitors on the power supply. it probably is also taking a long time to turn on.
post #71 of 92
Please help! I'm experiencing the same problem but on the old Samsung CL-32Z30DS, does anyone know which jumper I have to cut? Thanks a lot!
Edited by Bobstiv - 5/15/13 at 3:25pm
post #72 of 92
I would open it up and check out the caps on the power supply board for bulging or oozing and replace if necessary.
post #73 of 92
Originally Posted by ace5000 View Post

I would open it up and check out the caps on the power supply board for bulging or oozing and replace if necessary.

Thanks, I will
post #74 of 92
Hey everyone, I have the infamous flicker everyone is talking about. Samsung customer service, like everyone says, was no help. I have the Samsung 52" model ln52a580 and tried doing the research that everyone else did but to no avail no one could tell the 52" owners what jumper to cut. I decided I was either buying a new board and replacing it myself or have a trial and error on my existing board. I tried to snip the 852 jumper, didnt work, resoldered it back on, then tried the 854 jumper, also did not work, resoldered that one back on also. I, then just started cutting jumpers and testing the t.v. after each snip, if it didn't work just resoldered and started again, until I found "THE ONE" and that is after "6" more snips. For the model listed above, that is the Samsung LN52A580. I cut jumper "868" earlier today (6/5/13) and t.v. still working. I hope this helps out people because I did not want to spend money on another t.v. When I spent almost $2000 on this one.
post #75 of 92
My Samsung LN46C650 behaves the same way. I got it from Amazon in May 2010. It started out occasionally flickering when using the Roku (streaming Netflix). Then it got more frequent and started happening on cable channels, DVD, DVR. Usually the first 15 minutes or so would be fine and then it would start for no apparent reason. If I could stand watching it for very long, it would occasionally stop flickering for a few minutes and then start again. Damned annoying. & After a while it makes you motion sick to watch the TV.

I saw all the posts about cutting Jumper JP852 but was worried about doing surgery on my TV without really knowing what function I was disabling. I contacted Samsung through their chat line and asked them what JP852 did & what I might be disabling if I cut it. I could not get a straight answer out of the guy - not even a definitive "Don't do that because it will cause feature XYZ to no longer function".
He did recommend that I disconnect all the devices (DVR, Roku, etc) and then use the TV's self diagnostic "Picture Test" feature to see if it still flickered. Here's a link he sent me explaining how to do the Picture test:


SO I disconnected everything and did the test, and - SURPRISE! - the TV flickered as soon as the static test image appeared on the screen. Keep in mind that this is a static image built into the TV's memory. To me, that seems like pretty clear evidence that it is NOT a broken DVR or a bad cable connection - Its the TV itself. So if you are worried like me, I'd suggest trying that 5 minute test before you make a decision to cut the jumper.

I finally got up the nerve to cut the Jumper today, after checking on the price of replacement Power boards - about $100 each. So I figured, I know its the TV and the damage will be limited to a hundred bucks or so if this doesn't work. When I opened up the case, I found that it looks just like the pictures in this really good repair post:


As expected, I have board BN44-00341B and Jumper JP852 was clearly labelled and right where it was supposed to be. I gave the capacitors a quick visual check just to be sure they were o.k. & they were all fine. And I took care to not touch anything on the "HOT" side of the board so I didn't fry any components nor get an ugly capacitor-shock.

I snipped that jumper wire in the center, bent the top and bottom halves about 45-degrees away from each other and closed it back up. And now the TV is working fine. No flicker when using any of the devices and No flicker on the built in Picture Test either!

Bottom line: I cannot tell that its not a brand new TV - the original picture quality is completely back. Thanks to all who have tried this in the past and posted the details for folks like me to see. As with several others, I will re-post if the performance changes or the flicker somehow comes back but I suspect I won't need to.
post #76 of 92
Worked perfectly, took 10 minutes. You can also check out a video on youtube that shows how to do it
post #77 of 92
I Have Same TV and Same Problem
post #78 of 92
I have the same issue with techwood TK 3206 LCD

can someone help me? there is no jumpers on it i've disasambled but i don't see any ...

here's the backside picture:


I've just found 6 jumpers on power supply J1, J2, J3, J4, J5, J6

Edited by Shavi Meraba - 6/23/13 at 8:57am
post #79 of 92
any fix with the LN37A450? Its the exact same problem as seen on these videos.....problem is, I open up my 37 inch, and the board is different. Jumpers aren't JP...they are just J###.

Board is BN44-217A.

Need help!

Long time member here, long time reader/few posts....

post #80 of 92
I purchased a Samsung 55” LCD TV (Model No. LN55C630K1F) less than 3 years ago. Recently, the TV’s screen has become flickering. I have had a few rounds of communications with Samsung customer service. I pointed out that the problem was apparently a manufacturing defect and the TV should be recalled. In the end, I got Samsung’s response of “the issue is considered not a manufacturing defect. With the warranty being expired, no other accommodations can be offered”. Apparently, Samsung’s customer service is playing a hard ball. I firmly believe that the flickering screen is a manufacturing defect because (1) a lot of consumers reported the same flickering screen problem as mine on online forums and (2) Samsung has been aware of the issue (cut a jumper on the power supply board that was missed at the factory) and has issued a service bulletin on how to fix the problem. However, as an individual consumer, I am not able to have Samsung acknowledge its TV to be a defective product. I know there was a Class Action Settlement on a defective capacitor in some 2008 Samsung TV models or older. Does anybody know if there is a class action against Samsung 55” TV’s for 2010 models or newer? Or does anybody know if there is any law firm which would like to represent the consumers to file a class action law suit against Samsung for the defective TV’s?
I also own other 4 non-Samsung flat panel TV’s which are all older than 3 years and are working perfectly. With that being said, I vowed to never buy Samsung products again because Samsung does not stand behind their products at all!!!
post #81 of 92
If Model # is correct (LN55C630K1F) the C would designate it as a 2009 model TV. This is a prime example why i buy a 4yr waranty on all tvs.
post #82 of 92
This looks like an old post, but I have the exact same thing happening with my Samsung LCD tv. It is a about 2 years old, but I have several other Samsung TV's - not LCD that don't have this problem. When you turn the tv off for a few seconds, the problem goes away, but it is very aggravating. It actually flashes like a strobe light rather than going black. Did anyone find out what this could be?
post #83 of 92
Hi. I have the same flickering problem. I have a samsung LE46A558 and the power supply is this.

No jp852. Anyone knows which jumper I have to cut?
post #84 of 92
Interesting read. Has anyone figured out what this jumper actually does? It's a bit strange that most tv's seem to have worked for over a year with this jumper intact. I suspect as the tv ages, some components tend to wear/deteriorate. Perhaps this jumper changes some threshold levels or similar to allow greater range on some signals...
post #85 of 92
Just wanted to thank everyone that contributed to this thread. I was experiencing the same issue on my samsung LN46C750. The screen would flickr whenever i enabled the 3D mode on my TV. I cut Jumper JP852 as suggested and the flickering has ceased.(I literally just did this 15 minutes ago)

Thanks again
post #86 of 92
Thanks! Cutting the JP854 connector on the 55" worked just like cutting the JP852 (I was a little hesitant). TV works great!
post #87 of 92
Thanks to this I managed to fix one barely used le46c530. I also wanted to research a bit about the cause of this and here are the few things for anyone interested.

cutting jumper jp852 cuts the ground lead of the optoisolator (PCI801S) used for under voltage lockout signal, if the ground lead is cut the signal will follow the on/off signal from mainboard and will then keep the backlight driver ic (ICI801) on, so the fix only disables the UVLO signal which is generated by MM3313 (ICP802) power supply protection ic and is sensed directly from PFC-output trough voltage divider.
If I ever take the tv open again I would measure the PFC-output voltage (which should be at least somewhat ok as the device is working), the MM3313 DET2 input voltage and the DET2 output signal. The problem could also be in the optoisolator but they usually last many years of this kind of simple use. Of course as I have no experience with PFC systems there could be something broken in the active PFC which then trips the UVLO.

these deductions were made from the schematic and picture of the board as I was not at home at the time so didn't have any measurement devices and also I forgot to take some more pictures while the tv was opened.
post #88 of 92
My husband and I also have the Samsung tv that blinks like a strobe light. We found the jumper, cut it, and the tv works great.... BUT now the remote control doesn't work. The only way to turn the tv on and off is to plug it in to watch, and unplug it to turn it off. Any advice??
post #89 of 92
Originally Posted by t54g05 View Post

Hi. I have the same flickering problem. I have a samsung LE46A558 and the power supply is this.

No jp852. Anyone knows which jumper I have to cut?


Same issue here:( Can anyone help to locate the misbehaving jumper?


Model: LE46A552

Board PN: BN44-00203A (alternative: BN44-0202A)

SIP468A Rev 1.3


I have further photos of the board if needed.


HERE you can check the diagram of the power supply board.

Edited by IroningHUN - 9/29/13 at 1:49am
post #90 of 92
I have the flickering problem with Samsung TV model number LN46E550F6FXZA. TV is 14 months old and just started flickering yesterday. Found this thread and would like to do the jumper fix myself. Can anyone verify the specific jumper number for my model that needs to be cut?
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