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Official Sony HX929 Settings & Calibrations Thread

post #1 of 267
Thread Starter 
Please try to keep things limited to settings and calibrations posts. Please refer to the owners thread for discussion.

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1318875

CNET

Home menu>Settings>Picture & Display

--Picture Adjustments menu--
Setting Memory: [any]
Picture Mode: Custom
Backlight: 1
Picture: 90
Brightness: 52
Color: 50
Hue: 0
Color Temperature: Warm 2
Sharpness: 50
Noise Reduction: Off
MPEG Noise Reduction: Off
Dot noise reduction: Off
Reality Creation: Off
Smooth Gradation: Low
Motionflow: Off
CineMotion: Off

-Advanced Settings submenu-
Black Corrector: Off
Adv. Contrast Enhancer: Off
Gamma: +1
LED Dynamic Control: Standard
Auto Light Limiter: Off
Clear White: Off
Live Color: Off
White Balance: [see below]
Detail Enhancer: Off
Edge Enhancer: Off
Skin Naturalizer: Off [grayed out]
i/p Conversion Preference: Quality [grayed out]

-White Balance submenu-
R-Gain: -5
G-Gain: -1
B-Gain: -6
R-Bias: 0
G-Bias: 0
B-Bias: 0

Ambient Sensor: Off

--Screen menu--
Setting Memory: [any]
Wide Mode: Full
Auto Wide: Off
4:3 Default: Off [grayed out]
Auto Display Area: Off
Display Area: Full Pixel
Screen Position: [grayed out]
Vertical Size: 0 [grayed out]

--Pro Picture Setup menu--
[all settings default/Auto]

--Home Menu>Settings>Preferences--

--Scene Select menu--
General

--Eco menu--
Power Saving: Off

FlatpanelsHD

After calibration
Picture mode: Cinema/Theatre
Backlight 7
Contrast 84
Brightness: 50
Colour: 50
Hue: 0
Sharpness: 0
Colour temperature Warm2
Noise reduction Off
Mpeg noise reduction Off
Dot Noise Reduction Off
Reality Creation Off
Smooth Gradation Off
Motionflow Clear Plus
Film-mode Auto 1/Auto 2
Black corrector Off
Adv. Contrast Enhancer Off
Gamma +1
LED Dynamic Control Standard
Auto Light Limiter Off
Clear White Off
Live Colour Off
Detail/Edge/ enha. Off
R Gain -3
G Gain -6
B Gain 0
R Bias -2
G Bias 0
B Bias +1
post #2 of 267
Very good. Let's get this thread rolling.
post #3 of 267
Thread Starter 
Here are my settings for both light and dark environments. Ambient adjusts backlighting.

Picture Mode: Custom

Backlight: Min but I have the sensor on so it doesn't matter
Picture: Max
Brightness: 49
Color: 51
Hue: 0
Color Temp: Warm 2
Sharpness: 50
Noise Reduction: Off
MPEG NR: Off
Dot NR: Off
Reality Creation: Off
Smooth Gradation: Off
Cinemotion: Auto 2

Advanced Settings:
Black Corrector: Off
Adv. Contrast Enhancer: Off
Gamma: 0
LED Dynamic Control: Standard
Auto Light Limitier: Off
Clear White: Off
Live Color: Off
White Balance - Defaults
Detail Enhancer - Off
Edge Enhancer - Off

Ambient Sensor: On

Pro Picture Setup
SBM: Off

Picture Mode: Game-Original

Backlight: Min but I have the sensor on so it doesn't matter
Picture: Max
Brightness: 49
Color: 51
Hue: 0
Color Temp: Warm 2
Sharpness: Min

Advanced Settings:
Black Corrector: Off
Adv. Contrast Enhancer: Off
Gamma: 0
LED Dynamic Control: Standard
Auto Light Limitier: Off
Clear White: Off
Live Color: Off
White Balance - Defaults
Detail Enhancer - Off
Edge Enhancer - Off
i/p Coversion Preference: Speed

Ambient Sensor: On

Pro Picture Setup
SBM: Off
post #4 of 267
Just a thought could you add the type of room the settings are used in (dark room or bright room)
post #5 of 267
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Digital lab View Post

Just a thought could you add the type of room the settings are used in (dark room or bright room)

Well since I'm using the Ambient Light Sensor it works in both.
post #6 of 267
Quote:
Originally Posted by bpmurr View Post

Reserved for review settings & Calibrations

Should there be "classification" of Settings offered?

==> ROOM LIGHTING (Fully controlled vs. Some control vs. Bright daylight)

==> SOURCE (BluRay vs. HDTV vs. Streaming, etc.)
post #7 of 267
Picture mode : Standard
Backlight : 6
Picture : 89
Brightness : 45
Color : 54
Hue : R1
Color temp : Warm 2
Sharpness : 66
Noise reduction : Auto
Mpeg Noise Red : Auto
Dot Noise Red : Auto
Reality Creation : Auto
Smooth Gradation : Low
Motionflow : Clear
Cinemotion : Auto 1
Black Corrector : High
Adv Contrast Enc : Low
Gamma : -1
Led Control : Standard
Auto Light Limiter : Medium
Clear White : Off
Live Color : Off
Detail Enhancer : Medium
Edge Enhancer : Off
Ambient Sensor : On
Full Pixel

3D
Led Control : Standard (have to change this, its set to off, and makes difference in blacks)
Glasses : High
post #8 of 267
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by rclams View Post

Should there be "classification" of Settings offered?

==> ROOM LIGHTING (Fully controlled vs. Some control vs. Bright daylight)

==> SOURCE (BluRay vs. HDTV vs. Streaming, etc.)

Well for me it's not source dependent as all my sources run through the same receiver. However, those who run direct to the TV might have different settings.
post #9 of 267
Quote:
Originally Posted by ratherb1 View Post

should we do this

we probably all go back and forth between threads (owners/settings thread) so it would be great to try to keep the thread just settings only so we dont have to go through a hundred pages trying to find someones settings maybe we can quote/comment in the owners thread instead idk if so i will delete this or we can post something like this at the beginning to try to keep the clutter down

Specific calibration threads have long been a common approach to separation of calibration issues from other ownership information. However, we should seek to limit comment in this thread to calibration posts only, so that it stands as a quick reference for members to review what settings other members are running.
post #10 of 267
my settings for dark viewing with ambient light behind tv

source: verizon fios

Scene: Cinema
Picture Mode: Cinema 1
Backlight: 8
Picture: 88
Brightness: 45
Color: 53
Hue: 0
Color Temperature: Warm 2
Sharpness: 44
Noise Reduction: auto
MPEG Noise Reduction: auto
Reality Creation: auto
Smooth Gradation: low
Motionflow: Clear plus
CineMotion: Auto 1
Black Corrector: med
Adv. Contrast Enhancer: Off
Gamma: 0
LED Dynamic Control: Standard
Auto Light Limiter: med
Clear White: Off
Live Color: Off
White Balance: Default
Detail Enhancer: Off
Edge Enhancer: Off
Ambient Sensor: On
post #11 of 267
Was there a post in the main owners thread with chad b's settings, or did I dream that up.
post #12 of 267
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by ejb2227 View Post

Was there a post in the main owners thread with chad b's settings, or did I dream that up.

No he did not provide settings.
post #13 of 267
I'm hoping that the OP of the owners thread can put a link to this thread in it.
post #14 of 267
Updated settings here.
post #15 of 267
What would you recommend if I favor Clear and Auto 1?
post #16 of 267
Bump
post #17 of 267
Quote:
Originally Posted by bpmurr View Post

Here are my settings for both light and dark environments. Ambient adjusts backlighting.

Picture Mode: Custom

Backlight: Min but I have the sensor on so it doesn't matter
Picture: Max
Brightness: 49
Color: 51
Hue: 0
Color Temp: Warm 2
Sharpness: 50
Noise Reduction: Off
MPEG NR: Off
Dot NR: Off
Reality Creation: Off
Smooth Gradation: Off
Cinemotion: Auto 2

Advanced Settings:
Black Corrector: Off
Adv. Contrast Enhancer: Off
Gamma: 0
LED Dynamic Control: Standard
Auto Light Limitier: Off
Clear White: Off
Live Color: Off
White Balance - Defaults
Detail Enhancer - Off
Edge Enhancer - Off

Ambient Sensor: On

Pro Picture Setup
SBM: Off

Picture Mode: Game-Original

Backlight: Min but I have the sensor on so it doesn't matter
Picture: Max
Brightness: 49
Color: 51
Hue: 0
Color Temp: Warm 2
Sharpness: Min

Advanced Settings:
Black Corrector: Off
Adv. Contrast Enhancer: Off
Gamma: 0
LED Dynamic Control: Standard
Auto Light Limitier: Off
Clear White: Off
Live Color: Off
White Balance - Defaults
Detail Enhancer - Off
Edge Enhancer - Off
i/p Coversion Preference: Speed

Ambient Sensor: On

Pro Picture Setup
SBM: Off

Motionflow off?
post #18 of 267
My settings for CATV, PC(Nvidia with default settings), PS3 and 360.

Scene: General for CATV, Graphics for PC, Game for PS3/360 and Cinema for Blu-ray

Picture Mode: Custom, Graphics, Game-original and Cinema 1

Backlight: 2
Picture: 90
Brightness: 48 (PC) 47 (360/PS3/CATV)
Color: 51 (CATV/RGB full source) 57(360/RGB limited source)
Hue: 0
Color Temp: Warm 1
Sharpness: 57 (75 for PC/PS3/360)
Noise Reduction: Off (Medium for CATV)
MPEG NR: Off
Dot NR: Off
Reality Creation: Off
Smooth Gradation: Off
Motionflow: Off (I'm not a fan of the effect)
CineMotion: Off (Auto 2 for any video content)

Advanced Settings:
Black Corrector: Off
Adv. Contrast Enhancer: Off
Gamma: 0
LED Dynamic Control: Standard(low for PC/PS3/360)
Auto Light Limiter: Off
Clear White: Off
Live Color: Off
White Balance: B-Gain -1, rest 0
Detail Enhancer: Off
Edge Enhancer: Off
i/p Conversion Preference: Speed

Ambient Sensor: Off

Pro Picture Setup
SBM: On


A few notes
-Scene modes General to Animation allows all the backlight LED's to completely turn off. Scene modes Photo to Graphics leaves all the backlight LED's at a dim level and they don't completely turn off.
post #19 of 267
Quote:
Originally Posted by chs4000 View Post

What would you recommend if I favor Clear and Auto 1?

Turn the backlight down a notch or two if using Clear with my settings. Technically you could leave it at 8, but blooming will be slightly more if that sort of thing bothers you.
post #20 of 267
Do you guys use custom mostly in a very dark room?
post #21 of 267
Warm 2, Warm 2, Warm 2, Warm 2... Really? Well, attached here is an alternative for those that like their picture to look less.. (to avoid any negative connotation) orange - instead more realistic/generally pleasant.

The look is very similar to that of the settings I made for my LG 42LH90 (also posted in its dedicated thread) from what I can tell. I never saw them side by side nor did I intentionally try to replicate this. It's just, like when calibrating the LG, I was drawn to the same things to go for, except this time I had even more experience and less to deal with TBH. As I mentioned in the Owner's Thread of this TV, there isn't too extensive of settings to modify. I had to go with the default preset (with my relative settings at the time) which had the best color accuracy. The biggest problem is that there is no standard to which the settings are based on/how they're different. "Cinema 2" under the "Cinema" scene seemed to be the most accurate. Nothing too extensive I would probably end up additionally changing if I had more specific PQ options anyway... On "Cinema 2", by default the colors are pretty accurate as is.

 

Optimal SONY LED HDTV xxHX929 Picture Settings for General Content All-Inclusive.pdf 293.7548828125k . file
post #22 of 267
Quote:
Originally Posted by Typhoon859 View Post

Warm 2, Warm 2, Warm 2, Warm 2... Really? Well, attached here is an alternative for those that like their picture to look less.. (to avoid any negative connotation) orange - instead more realistic/generally pleasant.

Warm 2 is the only setting you should be using on this set.. for all content. It provides the most accurate color, your settings do not. Any professional ISF calibrator will use Warm 2.

If you think Warm 2 looks "orange" then your eyes are trained/use to seeing things incorrectly, and it will take you a few days to adjust to Warm 2. Your settings are dramatically pushing blue gain, and you probably cannot see it because you are use to it. Your colors are also far too saturated, also a sign that you are coming from a previous TV that was calibrated for the masses, and not for accuracy. You also have some major black crush. Even on Warm 2, this set still pushed a little bit to much blue gain.

There is a reason why everyone is using Warm 2. It's not preference, you just need to switch it and give it a few days. After you adjust, and you go back to neutral, you will see just how bad it is. No offense but your settings are far from accurate. However, if you like them.. then hey, don't let me tell you how to watch your TV.
post #23 of 267
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tyrindor View Post

Warm 2 is the only setting you should be using on this set.. for all content. It provides the most accurate color, your settings do not. Any professional ISF calibrator will use Warm 2.

If you think Warm 2 looks "orange" then your eyes are trained/use to seeing things incorrectly, and it will take you a few days to adjust to Warm 2. Your settings are dramatically pushing blue gain, and you probably cannot see it because you are use to it. Your colors are also far too saturated, also a sign that you are coming from a previous TV that was calibrated for the masses, and not for accuracy. Even on Warm 2, this set still pushed a little bit to much blue gain.

There is a reason why everyone is using Warm 2. It's not preference, you just need to switch it and give it a few days. After you adjust, and you go back to neutral, you will see just how bad it is.

Ok, well I disagree. I've made many posts in the past saying why. The LG I was talking about had settings I made on my own as well. There were many people that seemed to really like them. We can have this debate but don't mislead people reading through these settings that mine are "wrong", nevermind "bad". They are in fact neither. I've heard every perspective about this you can imagine already and I disagree. "Warm" is the most disgusting thing anyone can do to a TV, in my opinion. I won't tell you it's wrong, and maybe it's even "right" by the standard which you will tell me things are based on. I've given this approach so many chances in the past only to wildly prove to myself more and more that it's ridiculous, once again, in my opinion.

I can explain in detail but I've posted settings for multiple TV's before and I have gotten a decent following behind them. That wouldn't really be necessary to prove anything but it did happen and it must say something at the very least... I've grown tired explaining every time.

I know you're just trying to help but I don't need to be taught, trust me. If you want to stick to what's "right" over going for a "window effect" then that's fine. Just ignore my post then. If you're curious on the other hand, I'd be more than happy to explain. I just don't want to argue.
post #24 of 267
Quote:
Originally Posted by Typhoon859 View Post

Ok, well I disagree.

Please note there others out here in HT land that also appreciate white balance color temps other than a perfect 6500.

My only caveat would be, it's just as important to have a flat grayscale track at a higher color temp because the higher color temps may tend to be even less "flat" than the traditional 6500 reference color temp track. Higher color temps can be too blue/green and can benefit from some tweaking for a flat response thru the 0-100 IRE range range.
post #25 of 267
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bytehoven View Post

Please note there others out here in HT land that also appreciate white balance color temps other than a perfect 6500.

My only caveat would be, it's just as important to have a flat grayscale track at a higher color temp because the higher color temps may tend to be even less "flat" than the traditional 6500 reference color temp track. Higher color temps can be too blue/green and can benefit from some tweaking for a flat response thru the 0-100 IRE range range.

I 100% agree with you. That is what I've worked on for a very long time on my LG LH90. This TV doesn't provide these options. I don't want to sacrifice everything else for minor adjustments in that department. With the limited settings on this TV, using meters and trying to get it technically perfectly calibrated I feel will just destroy any of it's appeal. I would've been more mad about this had the set not been able to pull it off without it, as it's pretty accurate in that department by default. Would you have any recommendations in approaching this if there actually is something I'm missing in regards to this? I'm completely open to suggestions whilst keeping things in relative terms.
post #26 of 267
Post calibration settings from a recent hx929 review:

After calibration
Picture mode: Cinema/Theatre
Backlight 7
Contrast 84
Brightness: 50
Colour: 50
Hue: 0
Sharpness: 0
Colour temperature Warm2
Noise reduction Off
Mpeg noise reduction Off
Dot Noise Reduction Off
Reality Creation Off
Smooth Gradation Off
Motionflow Clear Plus
Film-mode Auto 1/Auto 2
Black corrector Off
Adv. Contrast Enhancer Off
Gamma +1
LED Dynamic Control Standard
Auto Light Limiter Off
Clear White Off
Live Colour Off
Detail/Edge/ enha. Off
R Gain -3
G Gain -6
B Gain 0
R Bias -2
G Bias 0
B Bias +1
post #27 of 267
Quote:
Originally Posted by Typhoon859 View Post

Ok, well I disagree. I've made many posts in the past saying why. The LG I was talking about had settings I made on my own as well. There were many people that seemed to really like them. We can have this debate but don't mislead people reading through these settings that mine are "wrong", nevermind "bad". They are in fact neither. I've heard every perspective about this you can imagine already and I disagree. "Warm" is the most disgusting thing anyone can do to a TV, in my opinion. I won't tell you it's wrong, and maybe it's even "right" by the standard which you will tell me things are based on. I've given this approach so many chances in the past only to wildly prove to myself more and more that it's ridiculous, once again, in my opinion.

I can explain in detail but I've posted settings for multiple TV's before and I have gotten a decent following behind them. That wouldn't really be necessary to prove anything but it did happen and it must say something at the very least... I've grown tired explaining every time.

I know you're just trying to help but I don't need to be taught, trust me. If you want to stick to what's "right" over going for a "window effect" then that's fine. Just ignore my post then. If you're curious on the other hand, I'd be more than happy to explain. I just don't want to argue.

Coming from the 55" to the 46" I notice a big difference in color settings. On the 55" I had to set it to warm 2 to get rid of the blue whites but then I got the orange/yellow whites even with clear white: high and R gain -3. With the 46" now warm 1 with clear white: low looks perfect and close to my 46XBR3's warm 1. I also prefer this setting even though I can see warm 2 is better in color band images I have.
post #28 of 267
Is anyone else having issues setting the contrast (i.e. picture)?

I'm using the Advanced Contrast Test from the WOW disc and it says "the display's full dynamic range is utilized when the 'Ideal White' elements just become fully visible".

Based on the above, I would expect that I should be able increase Picture to the point where the "Ideal White" elements blend into the background and then decrease Picture down to where the "Ideal White" elements just become visible.

However, even with Picture cranked to MAX, I can't get the "Ideal White" elements to disappear into the background.

Is anyone else experiencing this? If so, what does it mean? The whites on screen certainly don't seem "dirty" or "dull" in any way.
post #29 of 267
Quote:
Originally Posted by Robonaut
Is anyone else having issues setting the contrast (i.e. picture)?

I'm using the Advanced Contrast Test from the WOW disc and it says "the display's full dynamic range is utilized when the 'Ideal White' elements just become fully visible".

Based on the above, I would expect that I should be able increase Picture to the point where the "Ideal White" elements blend into the background and then decrease Picture down to where the "Ideal White" elements just become visible.

However, even with Picture cranked to MAX, I can't get the "Ideal White" elements to disappear into the background.

Is anyone else experiencing this? If so, what does it mean? The whites on screen certainly don't seem "dirty" or "dull" in any way.
I have that too. I can only get the stars to disappear into the background at 4% and I'm using a ps3.
My friend has the dame set and is using a theta and can make them go away with the theta processor.
post #30 of 267
Quote:
Originally Posted by Robonaut View Post

Is anyone else having issues setting the contrast (i.e. picture)?

I'm using the Advanced Contrast Test from the WOW disc and it says "the display's full dynamic range is utilized when the 'Ideal White' elements just become fully visible".

Based on the above, I would expect that I should be able increase Picture to the point where the "Ideal White" elements blend into the background and then decrease Picture down to where the "Ideal White" elements just become visible.

However, even with Picture cranked to MAX, I can't get the "Ideal White" elements to disappear into the background.

Is anyone else experiencing this? If so, what does it mean? The whites on screen certainly don't seem "dirty" or "dull" in any way.

If you can see all bars with Max contrast, and they aren't tinted pinkish then you can set it to max. If they are tinted pink, then lower it until they aren't.

With this set, Max contrast (or picture) is possible without hurting the overall picture. However, it is quite bright.

So in short - set picture to what you want it to be. The contrast on this set is so good it comes down to preference.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Bytehoven View Post

Post calibration settings from a recent hx929 review:

After calibration
Picture mode: Cinema/Theatre
Backlight 7
Contrast 84
Brightness: 50
Colour: 50
Hue: 0
Sharpness: 0
Colour temperature Warm2
Noise reduction Off
Mpeg noise reduction Off
Dot Noise Reduction Off
Reality Creation Off
Smooth Gradation Off
Motionflow Clear Plus
Film-mode Auto 1/Auto 2
Black corrector Off
Adv. Contrast Enhancer Off
Gamma +1
LED Dynamic Control Standard
Auto Light Limiter Off
Clear White Off
Live Colour Off
Detail/Edge/ enha. Off
R Gain -3
G Gain -6
B Gain 0
R Bias -2
G Bias 0
B Bias +1

Any idea if they had Ambient Sensor on or off?
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