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OPTOMA ML500 LED 1280x800 - Page 22

post #631 of 680
Quote:
My fan is pretty quiet and I keep mine in "user" mode. After you set your "user" settings, try going to the "LED settings" and put it on "eco" mode. If it is already on eco mode, switch it to normal mode and then back to eco mode. I'm not sure what else you can try. My fan is quiet, I keep it in user mode, I have it set to eco mode and I don't lose my settings when it is shut off and then turned back on. Good luck, and hope this helps you.

Thanks. Did some playing around, and indeed my projector will stay in user mode. However, this doesn't help my original intent, which was to keep the fan noise lower. It seems that User mode uses the same fan speed as PC mode, no matter how dim you set it. In terms of relative fan nosie, here's what I saw (all eco mode):

Bright: high relative fan speed
User/PC: medium
Cinema/Photo: low

Even if I have the brightness set to 0, the fan will still be "medium" and get quieter if I switch to Cinema mode. I have my projector setup to auto power on when plugged in, and use a plug in light timer to automatically disconnect and reconnect power at a certain time of day, so I'd like the projector to always power up into the lowest fan noise, but so far I have to manually change it every day.
post #632 of 680
Bump. Well, as a last resort I think I am going to have to use a programmable USB IR emitter with a computer script to change it automatically every day. oh well...
post #633 of 680
Hello people of this amazing forum!
This is my first post.
(English is not my native language, sorry)
I use to hang around different avforums because HT is one of my biggest interests.
And this is one of my favourite ones smile.gif

I have different HT projectors -but all of them works with bulbs and I have been following all discussions about led-projectors for a long time waiting for one to be bright enough at a reasonible price. And now I found the one, I bought a ML500 a few days ago.
So thank you for all information the last months smile.gif

I am very pleased with the projector.
As everybody else, I have the focus problem 10 minutes after startup.
But then its sharp and amazingly bright -even in eco-mode.
Maby bright enough to use the 3D option that comes with it?
I assume that one will have to lower the size of the projected image (down to 70") to enjoy a bright 3D-picture with glasses on?
I was thinking about getting a Optoma 3D-XL to convert the 3D-material from a 3D-BD-player. But nothing is for free -so I thought that I would ask in the forum before getting one:

Has anyone tried out the 3D (120Hz) function yet cool.gif?


Thanks in advance!

Regards

UffeB
Edited by lecvip - 6/27/12 at 9:49pm
post #634 of 680
I've used a similar projector, the Viewsonic PLED-W500 with the VP3D1 converter. It works great, I love it. I watch movies and game in 3D on the wall at 140 inches. Of course the darker the room, the better the image.

You can try the 3D-XL, but make sure that it's returnable. When reading these forums prior to my purchase, I read that Optoma said on the product page that it was incompatible.

If you have a PC with a 3D compatible graphics card from Nvidia, you can get it to work. Read the PLED-W500 forum, I followed the advice there and it works great. That's without the converter, I use the converter for my PS3.
post #635 of 680
Rugrash, thank you for the information!!

I can now confirm that the ML500 projector do work with the Optoma 3DXL-box connected to a BD-player to watch BD 3D movies tongue.gif
But not through the HDMI-port on the projector as on the other 3DXL-ready projectors (it did not work...I tried several different ways).
I relized that I now had to figure out how to get the VGA-port (it is the only 3D input on the projector) to be fully 3D-compatibel with HDMI.
I was a little worried about if the digital 3Dsignals from HDMI should survive the convertion to analouge VGA and give the projector the right input...
But the solution was real simple when it came to my mind... biggrin.gif - VGA supports 1920x1080p so it should not be a problem...

This is how I got it to work extremely good ( watched TinTin-movie yesterday) with my cheap Philips BD-player (on a 50" HC spare screen -just for testing):

BDplayer connected (with HDMI 1.4) to the 3DXLconverter.
From 3DXLconverter (with HDMI 1.4) to a electronic (high quality) HDMI-VGA converter.
From the HDMI-VGA converter (with VGA cable) to the ML500 VGA-port.

No tweaking att all (in my case) -it just worked fine from start to convert the digital signals to analog and keep the 3D-information. I just had to synk the glasses during upstart (in projector menu).
Very important to use HDMI 1.4 (HQ High Speed) cables.

I have tried to set the output signal from the BDplayer to 720p (cleaner/sharper picture?) and "auto" (1920x1080p according to projector and downscaled) and it all works just fine. I did not see any difference between the two resolutions.

High Quality picture and clean detail in the 3D-picture and no ghosting whatever (gosting is maby only a pure lcd-effect?).
I think that one can project 3D up to 90" -in a dark room (if bigger - the 3Dpicture will be uncomfortable dark, imho)...but the glasses did not darkened the image as much as I did expect. A screensize about 70" is probably the best...(personal taste) and will give a nice light picture.

I am very pleased that I now have a very good LED-projector that is portable and very useful in many different ways -and with the added components (375USD -which I can also use with other HDReady-devices) is a great 3D-projector -as well!!!

Thanks for listening!

!biggrin.gif

Regards
UffeB
Edited by lecvip - 7/4/12 at 2:39am
post #636 of 680
Quote:
Originally Posted by lecvip View Post

Rugrash, thank you for the information!!
I can now confirm that the ML500 projector do work with the Optoma 3DXL-box connected to a BD-player to watch BD 3D movies tongue.gif
But not through the HDMI-port on the projector as on the other 3DXL-ready projectors (it did not work...I tried several different ways).
I relized that I now had to figure out how to get the VGA-port (it is the only 3D input on the projector) to be fully 3D-compatibel with HDMI.
I was a little worried about if the digital 3Dsignals from HDMI should survive the convertion to analouge VGA and give the projector the right input...
But the solution was real simple when it came to my mind... biggrin.gif - VGA supports 1920x1080p so it should not be a problem...
This is how I got it to work extremely good ( watched TinTin-movie yesterday) with my cheap Philips BD-player (on a 50" HC spare screen -just for testing):
BDplayer connected (with HDMI 1.4) to the 3DXLconverter.
From 3DXLconverter (with HDMI 1.4) to a electronic (high quality) HDMI-VGA converter.
From the HDMI-VGA converter (with VGA cable) to the ML500 VGA-port.
No tweaking att all (in my case) -it just worked fine from start to convert the digital signals to analog and keep the 3D-information. I just had to synk the glasses during upstart (in projector menu).
Very important to use HDMI 1.4 (HQ High Speed) cables.
I have tried to set the output signal from the BDplayer to 720p (cleaner/sharper picture?) and "auto" (1920x1080p according to projector and downscaled) and it all works just fine. I did not see any difference between the two resolutions.
High Quality picture and clean detail in the 3D-picture and no ghosting whatever (gosting is maby only a pure lcd-effect?).
I think that one can project 3D up to 90" -in a dark room (if bigger - the 3Dpicture will be uncomfortable dark, imho)...but the glasses did not darkened the image as much as I did expect. A screensize about 70" is probably the best...(personal taste) and will give a nice light picture.
I am very pleased that I now have a very good LED-projector that is portable and very useful in many different ways -and with the added components (375USD -which I can also use with other HDReady-devices) is a great 3D-projector -as well!!!
Thanks for listening!
!biggrin.gif
Regards
UffeB

wont work with bluray because HDCP encoding.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/High-bandwidth_Digital_Content_Protection
post #637 of 680
Quote:
Originally Posted by lecvip View Post

Rugrash, thank you for the information!!
I can now confirm that the ML500 projector do work with the Optoma 3DXL-box connected to a BD-player to watch BD 3D movies tongue.gif
Regards
UffeB

That's great news. Sounds like you are using something like the hdfury to convert hdmi to vga. Which version of hdfury are you using? Or is it another product? This should work for the other clones as well, like the Acer K330 and Viewsonic PLED-W500.

Thanks
post #638 of 680
Hello eat meat!
It's HDCP-compatible.

Hello Sisyphus!
This is the product that's doing the job (except I bought mine in Sweden):
http://www.dealextreme.com/p/hdmi-to-vga-and-3-5mm-audio-converter-80408?item=19

I have only tried with the ML500, but it should work with all 3Dready DLPlink devices through the 3DXLconverter.

My simple solution is new even to the Optoma technicians...I have been in contact with them two days ago to hear if there was a solution for 3DXL -ML500
They told me it could not work because the ML500 is not HDMI 1.4a. Only PC with 3D-card will work...(that's when I started thinking about the solution -not HDMI but VGA)
I mailed back and told them my solution....they are probably testing it now biggrin.gif -and try to figure out how to make it stop working;)

I have also asked Optoma why not add a VGAport to the 3DXL OR send a HDMI-VGA.converter with it in the future.
At least they could write a sentence on their homepage about the solution with HDMI-VGA-converter -they do allready have labels of wich projector is "3DXL-ready".

It would bee nice to all owners of 3DreadyDLPlink-projectors which is not compatibel with the 3DXL-box HDMI out there in the world.

regards
UffeB
post #639 of 680
Due to analog sunset and HDCP, you'll never see a VGA port added to the 3D-XL.

The reason the ML-500 does not work with the 3D-XL is due to the EDID in the eeprom. Optoma would need to release a firmware update for the ML-500.

It's not unreasonable to assume that they are perfectly aware of this and released the projector without the proper support in order to keep it from competing with their other 3D projectors.
post #640 of 680
This is part of the answer from Optoma:

” This is because it does not have HDMI 1.4a. ...and therefore it is only "3D Ready" not "Full 3D"

Only "Full 3D" Models are GT750, HD33, HD83. (And their derivatives)

(Just in case you are wondering... it will not support 3D-XL either...this is a limitation of the ML500 & ML300 chipsets)“

But I don't care -the 3Dfunction works fine for me with the HDMI-VGA solution –"Impossible" or not..tongue.gif
Today I bought "Cars 3D" and is prepared for a nice evening with (hopefully) many stereoscopic laughs biggrin.gif in the weekend.
I will try to use it on my 90" HC BlackScreen that is mounted in my livingroom and see if the 500Al is enough for pleasant wieving of 3D in that size.

I did a short videoclip of what the 3D projection looks like on the 50". Excuse the mess -it's a spare room I use for experiments...
(The annoying tapping sound comes from the camera...) the video is in 720p.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sw8pbwcwKKc&list=UUwl0S6vpeLjAr1q7d--I3EA&index=1&feature=plcp


Regards
UffeB
Edited by lecvip - 7/5/12 at 3:05pm
post #641 of 680
Greetings All

Having the week of the 4th off I rearranged my viewing area

http://www.flickr.com/photos/39656871@N08/7600760450/

Cleaned the projector (3,000 hrs of use, in a carpeted room, with small short haired dog running around) and relocated the projector to the table between the chairs (top draw removed, shelf installed with projector)

http://www.flickr.com/photos/39656871@N08/7600754454/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/39656871@N08/7600752276/in/photostream

Then built a new HTPC with windows 7 (32 bit), SSD, USB stick tuner, case, 8 Gig Mem, etc.. I made a mistake and ordered the wrong motherboard so I had to wait till the following week to finish the build.

Last weekend I was playing around with the new computer and software (new to windows 7) and stumbled across something, this is the reason for this post.

In a pop down menu I saw this,

http://www.flickr.com/photos/39656871@N08/7600757524/in/photostream

Intrigued I selected the 120HZ option, not only did it go to 120 Hz it downgraded the res to 1024 X 768. These numbers being what everyone talks about in various threads about the conditions needed for 3D on these LED projectors, I explored further.

Having a Blu Ray drive for the computer and Power DVD 10 installed, I started to tinker with Power DVD and my wife’s copy of Glee 3D, then I get this screen.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/39656871@N08/7600759468/in/photostream

Never having the opportunity to play with a computer/display capable of 3D, I did not know if this image meant it was 3D. I tried a small strobe and 2 different video cameras to see if I could catch the left to right flipping, I couldn’t so I went out and smoked a cigar.

Not wanting lug equipment home from work (high speed HD camera) and knowing 1 day I’ll be getting a 3d projector I just bought 2 pair of well rated low cost DLP link shutter glasses.

http://www.amazon.com/DLP-LINK-3D-Projectors-Samsung%C2%AE-Mitsubishi%C2%AE/dp/B004G2VJM6/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1342738775&sr=8-1&keywords=3DTV+Corp+DLP-LINK+3D+Glasses

Well they arrived last night, started the movie @ the 120Hz, 1024 X 768 down the HDMI cable, pressed the power on button on the glasses and voila I have 3D (wife was really pleased, I had to watch entire movie with her).

Everything I have read has led me to believe this should not work, but it does. I have 3D coming from my HTPC down a 1.3 HDMI cable through my receiver to my projector, where cheap DLP linked glasses worked flawlessly giving me a true 3D image.

I’ll list the specifics of the equipment I have below, but some of the HDMI cabled in this loop I got from TJ MAXX (would you believe a 15 foot HDMI cable for $11-$15) Outside of the HTPC/glasses, nothing was bought/built with 3D in mind .

CPU http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16819103942
Mother board http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813157260
Hd, RAM, Case not critical
Windows 7 32 bit, fully upgraded
HT sound http://www.us.onkyo.com/model.cfm?m=HT-S5400&class=Systems&p=i
cheap cables, yep I skimped on cables and got lucky, did you know you can go to TJ MAXX and get a 15 foot HDMI cable for $11-$15.
HDMI union http://www.newark.com/multicomp/1901119/adapter-hdmi-1f-1f/dp/74M6207

I’ll help if someone else wants to duplicate these results.

AFM
Edited by afineman - 7/19/12 at 4:00pm
post #642 of 680
Hi my first post here =) but visit here alot =P Ok so I was gonna wait until the viewsonic clone went back on sale =/ but has anyone been able to duplicate afinemans post if people are I may just pull the trigger and grab this.
post #643 of 680
I am looking at the ViewSonic PJD5523w or this projector . The portability means alot as well as the lamp life, who can tell me the most hours anyone has on this projector yet?
post #644 of 680
Quote:
Originally Posted by afineman View Post

Greetings All
Having the week of the 4th off I rearranged my viewing area
http://www.flickr.com/photos/39656871@N08/7600760450/
Cleaned the projector (3,000 hrs of use, in a carpeted room, with small short haired dog running around) and relocated the projector to the table between the chairs (top draw removed, shelf installed with projector)
http://www.flickr.com/photos/39656871@N08/7600754454/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/39656871@N08/7600752276/in/photostream
Then built a new HTPC with windows 7 (32 bit), SSD, USB stick tuner, case, 8 Gig Mem, etc.. I made a mistake and ordered the wrong motherboard so I had to wait till the following week to finish the build.
Last weekend I was playing around with the new computer and software (new to windows 7) and stumbled across something, this is the reason for this post.
In a pop down menu I saw this,
http://www.flickr.com/photos/39656871@N08/7600757524/in/photostream
Intrigued I selected the 120HZ option, not only did it go to 120 Hz it downgraded the res to 1024 X 768. These numbers being what everyone talks about in various threads about the conditions needed for 3D on these LED projectors, I explored further.
Having a Blu Ray drive for the computer and Power DVD 10 installed, I started to tinker with Power DVD and my wife’s copy of Glee 3D, then I get this screen.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/39656871@N08/7600759468/in/photostream
Never having the opportunity to play with a computer/display capable of 3D, I did not know if this image meant it was 3D. I tried a small strobe and 2 different video cameras to see if I could catch the left to right flipping, I couldn’t so I went out and smoked a cigar.
Not wanting lug equipment home from work (high speed HD camera) and knowing 1 day I’ll be getting a 3d projector I just bought 2 pair of well rated low cost DLP link shutter glasses.
http://www.amazon.com/DLP-LINK-3D-Projectors-Samsung%C2%AE-Mitsubishi%C2%AE/dp/B004G2VJM6/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1342738775&sr=8-1&keywords=3DTV+Corp+DLP-LINK+3D+Glasses
Well they arrived last night, started the movie @ the 120Hz, 1024 X 768 down the HDMI cable, pressed the power on button on the glasses and voila I have 3D (wife was really pleased, I had to watch entire movie with her).
Everything I have read has led me to believe this should not work, but it does. I have 3D coming from my HTPC down a 1.3 HDMI cable through my receiver to my projector, where cheap DLP linked glasses worked flawlessly giving me a true 3D image.
I’ll list the specifics of the equipment I have below, but some of the HDMI cabled in this loop I got from TJ MAXX (would you believe a 15 foot HDMI cable for $11-$15) Outside of the HTPC/glasses, nothing was bought/built with 3D in mind .
CPU http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16819103942
Mother board http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813157260
Hd, RAM, Case not critical
Windows 7 32 bit, fully upgraded
HT sound http://www.us.onkyo.com/model.cfm?m=HT-S5400&class=Systems&p=i
cheap cables, yep I skimped on cables and got lucky, did you know you can go to TJ MAXX and get a 15 foot HDMI cable for $11-$15.
HDMI union http://www.newark.com/multicomp/1901119/adapter-hdmi-1f-1f/dp/74M6207
I’ll help if someone else wants to duplicate these results.
AFM

Thanks for exploring this! It's nice to know these LED projectors will work in 3D with Powerdvd and an AMD video card. Have fun!
post #645 of 680
Greetings All

Now that I have played with the 3D option for a week and watched 4 different movies as well as made some mistakes I figured I can give a better detail on how my system is working.

I'll start with the default steps (not all steps are needed all the time but following these steps will give the best chance of it working)

1: in the 4th pane of the projector menu set projector to “Factory Default”
http://www.flickr.com/photos/39656871@N08/7694248752/sizes/l/in/photostream/

2: in the 3rd pane turn “3D”, “On”
http://www.flickr.com/photos/39656871@N08/7694247428/sizes/l/in/photostream/

3: in the AMD Vision engine control center make sure GPU scaling is unchecked (if checked the 120 HZ option will not be available) http://www.flickr.com/photos/39656871@N08/7694241360/sizes/l/in/photostream/

4: in Desktop Properties select 120 Hz and Apply, resolution will roll back to 1024 X 768
http://www.flickr.com/photos/39656871@N08/7694239270/in/photostream

5: if you see this, then you are in 1028 X 768 @ 120 Hz (you glasses should sync to this image)
http://www.flickr.com/photos/39656871@N08/7694233388/in/photostream

6: start Power DVD turn on the 3D button and start your movie (NOTE. 3D MUST be turned of after use, or next time Power DVD starts, will cause out of range issues with the HDMI)
http://www.flickr.com/photos/39656871@N08/7694235340/in/photostream

In my previous post I gave details of the CPU and motherboard as well as my receiver and HDMI cables, so I won't repeat.

In step #1 I say set to defaults, sometimes making adjustments in the projector menu for the current film you are watching causes the screen to go blank the next time to switch to 120 Hz.

In step 3, if this is checked the the 120Hz option will not be available (this is video card type/driver specific I have AMD, yours may be different)

In step 5, I'm already @ 120 Hz and my glasses will sync. In the first picture this is a LED clock I have in my center http://www.flickr.com/photos/39656871@N08/7694231504/in/photostream

This is the same image looking through 1 lens of my 3D glasses, notice the clock is not in sync
http://www.flickr.com/photos/39656871@N08/7694229068/in/photostream

In step 6 (this is IMPORTANT) I say to make sure the 3D button is off when done, because if you don't and Power DVD starts again it will try to set the resolution to 120 Hz @ 1080P causing the projector to display “HDMI out of range”. So you must set the res. To 120 Hz in you control panel before turning the 3D on in Power DVD.

If you forget step 6, use a VGA cable to the projector and the dual screen option will become active and you'll be able to get the HDMI back in range. If you forget to switch off the 3D you'll hate yourself (It is a pain getting it back).

Other tips are, once the movie starts, pause it, set (on the projector) brightness to about 56, contrast to about 68 and Gama to 3 (these settings work best for me, your settings may be different).

Hope this helps the next person

AFM
post #646 of 680
I bought the ml500 got it today so haven't messed with the 3d as i was just enjoying a huge screen lol.. anyways I seem to be getting syncing issues I believe using a hdmi connected to my htpc within a hour or so of movie watching random black screens for a few seconds then picture comes back up but this is annoying. I dunno maybe i got a bad unit? any help would be appreciated.
post #647 of 680
Quote:
Originally Posted by afineman View Post

Greetings All...
6: start Power DVD turn on the 3D button and start your movie (NOTE. 3D MUST be turned of after use, or next time Power DVD starts, will cause out of range issues with the HDMI)

Hope this helps the next person
AFM

Thanks for the warning. smile.gif If you lose synch when starting up PowerDVD try pressing the S key (you might need to enable BD-J keyboard support in the blu-ray menu). This will stop playback and you might be able to disable 3D. If that doesn't work you can hit CTR + X which will close powerdvd. If you then eject the blu-ray disc and open powerdvd you can now disable 3D.
post #648 of 680
hey guys my unit doesn't seem to black out much anymore but as a user posted i believe the page before im missing my sharpness and hue settings any idea on how i can get them back?

also saturation is missing.

ah i noticed someone mention playing bluray brings it up and it did so all is well =)
Edited by nightnday - 8/9/12 at 7:50pm
post #649 of 680
@afineman

Forgive me if I ask many stupid questions, but for me, 3d+ml500=confusion.

I do not have the projector, yet. Bought one from Amazon yesterday for 399, so I thought it was worth getting. Now I have to figure out the 3D part.

I have read your instructions, but I notice you have an AMD APU, so I am not sure they will apply to me.

I have an Intel i7-990x with three ATI HD 7970 cards. In my CCC(Catalyst Control Center) I have no options for 3D Display settings, these may show up when I connect the projector.

I do not have a AMD Vision menu, maybe that's only with AMD CPUs, I also don't know this.

My main question is:

Where is the DLP emmiter for the glasses you use? Is it in the projector?


Also, has anyone got the ML500 to work with Nividia 3D Vision? If so, how?


Thanks in advance for your assistance.
post #650 of 680
Karuton

First there are no stupid questions

I had stumbled upon my projectors ability to displaying a 3D image via HDMI by accident, because I had not read about this (3D via HDMI) I documented what the key (I believe) parts were in my computer build that allowed this to work.

1: My AMD software does not have anything that says 3D, I was trying to point out that when conditions were set correctly (for my set up) a 120 Hz rate was displayed, this 120 Hz is the first step.

2: I don’t have an emitter, the term DLP link (anyone correct me if I am wrong) means the following.
My 3D glasses are looking for a flash of white light, this flash of white light happens between the left eye image and the right eye image, this flash is the sync signal for the glasses. So this means my screen is the emitter. NOTE: I have a Da-Lite HP screen, this can only help with the glasses seeing the sync flash.

As for other software/hardware compatible with this projector to display a 3D image, I can’t help. I too was very confused when reading about all the different ways of displaying 3D and actually became a bit overwhelmed.

In the end, if you computer can generate the correct signal to send down the HDMI then this projector will display it using the DLP Link technology, When you get it (the projector) and if you’d like some help, PM me and we can set up a Skype call and I’ll help where I can

AFM
post #651 of 680
@afineman

Thank you for the reply. I think you are correct about the DLP glasses using the flashes from the screen. I read some more on them. I now understand why some people were complaining about their cheaper glasses not working in bright light conditions.

I am in China now, go back to the USA on Thursday and will not get to try the 3D until I am back in Shanghai. I am pretty sure my hardware will be OK and I have PowerDVD 12, so shoudl be OK.

It's kind of amazing how little information there is on using 3D with this projector. Many have written it can't be done, so I think it must be frustrating for a lot of people.

I called Optoma in Shanghai today, the engineer did not speak English, but one of the staff translated his instructions. Forgive the rough English, but here is what they said:

1 make sure your computer graphics can output 120Hz signal, the independent video card is ok.

2 Please install the 3D player software, recommended “Stereoscopic Player”, NVideo 3D player software needs with NVideo cards and 3D sets.

3 3D source, general 3D blue disc cannot be used, because the wrong format, The format should be interlaced video, the following website has some demonstration pieces, http://www.3dtv.at/Movies/Index_en.aspx

4 active 3D shutter glasses, e.g. Optoma ZD201,
The above are all ready, connect the computer and projector (HDMI or VGA ),

5 switch to projector output (win7 system switch key is windows +P ), and then the computer output frequency setting for the 120hz: (desktop--- right key---screen resolution --- advanced settings----monitor; the screen refresh rate is set to 120Hz,)

resolution can be 1280x720p or 1024x768 or 800x600, the higher the selection, system configuration more and more high, the system configuration is not enough, processing signal slow, appear judder problem.

6 computer set up, see the projector to detect signal is 120HZ signal, if not, repeat the fourth step.

7 Set projector display mode as 3D (MENU---display mode---- DLP link)

8 Stereoscopic Player, set to software page flipping, and then open the 3D source, full-screen playback, wearing glasses can enjoy

If you think the 3D effect seems unmoral, you can set 3D synchronous turnover.


"unmoral" 3D --- smile.gif I told him I would not be watching anything "unmoral" wink.gif
post #652 of 680
I just bought the Optoma ML500 from Amazon when the price for me dropped to around $440 on Monday. I can't seem to find the "elevator foot" that screws onto the bottom of the projector to adjust its height. Where is it supposed to be found in a new package?

Having a missing part is making me suspicious that my projector was bought and returned by someone else who forgot to include the screw.

Is it possible to buy the screw from some place like Home Depot, or do I need to contact Optoma to get the screw?
post #653 of 680
The bottom should look like this http://0.tqn.com/d/hometheater/1/0/l/5/2/optomaml500bottomview700.jpg you should be able to unscrew the top rubber feet.. if it's missing that is strange. I have a friend who got a refurbished unit. I bought a new and neither of had to attach the screw it was already there. $440 is a pretty nice deal!
post #654 of 680
Thanks. That helped. I didn't notice the elevator foot was at the front side--I thought it was like the other rubber feet. I thought the screw hole in the middle was where the elevator foot was supposed to be, but I guess that's for something else like a ceiling or tripod mount.
Edited by poweredbyoats - 8/19/12 at 2:39am
post #655 of 680
i currently have the epson 8350 and epson 705hd. Will the ml500 blow the 705hd out the water as far as color? and at 100" can it compare to the 8350 wich is 140" This topic has really been making think more and more about pulling the trigger on the ml. i don't care about 3d or noise level, i do care about standard def quality since i mainly watch old tv series in my bedroom off dvd. but if this is all around a better pj than the 705 i gotta get it
post #656 of 680
it says pc 3d!
so how to watch 3d via pc?
its normal pc or 3d?
post #657 of 680
Hi all,

I signed up to help people up, I successfully have used a wireless dongle with the the ML500.

You can either buy their $28 dongle, or look for a dongle that has the chip set RT3070,

I just got one off ebay for $7, amazon have cheaper ones, as long as the chipset is an 3070 it will work
post #658 of 680
@ Stealthmatt and other wifi dongle owners:
I just got an ml500 and am looking to follow in your footsteps to get a wireless setup. I noticed that the optoma dongle comes with MirrorOp sender software, which I guess gets installed on your windows pc source to stream video to the projector. If you're using a 3rd party rt3070 dongle, did you need to get MirrorOp separately (@mirrorop.com) or are you using something else for streaming?

Thanks for the input!
post #659 of 680
Also, is lag an issue? All the demos I've seen of mirrorop online show a half-second or so of lag between the source and the projector. I'd imagine that it could get pretty annoying if you're streaming movie video to the projector and using the source's audio.

Thanks again.
post #660 of 680
I had a problem with my projector ever since I received it.
It would always go into searching mode. aka going black for 10 seconds to search for a source.

At first, I thought it was my cord. So I bought new cords and used 6 different HDMI cords.
Nothing worked, but it seemed like sometimes one cord was better than the other.

I figured it was my laptop's port. So I kept shoving the HDMI in there, and figured I would file down the plastic to make sure the HDMI would get in further...
Well, that seemed like it helped a little. But it really didn't.
So after 7-8 months of this I bought a new laptop.

I was excited because I would finally have it working.
Well, no, not exactly. It didn't work so it wasn't my laptop the whole time.

Really made me upset to find out it was the projector the whole time.

Anyways, regardless of it going out so many times making me upset.
I put in 3200 hours on it. So, out of 5050 to 5700 hours of owning it, it was on nearly 24/7
This isn't on eco mode either. It would shut off on it's own after several hours.
I use this as a movie player but mostly used for my game display.

It never gets hot and it seems to be fine. Image is all great and the color is wonderful. Nothing is turning yellow or any other noticeable defects.

Anyways, after it went out 4x in 5 minutes.
I was really thinking of doing the RMA process after I move. If I could, I do not know. Been awhile.
Just not happy that it has been doing that since I had it.

Anyways, after it did that, I started messing with the settings again and what do ya know, no more search blackscreen to piss me off.
I know there is a problem with the projector on certain settings. But, I'm not going to RMA it, I'll just deal with it.
Since it is not going black search mode on me again. So I am happy with it. just pissed that it took that long to get it to do that. Even though I did mess with the settings to make it appear the best in my eyes, I didn't bother to tweak it again. The changes I did do, I thought it would help the panic search mode black screen of anger. It never did though. Just minor settings that is kinda overlooked and where one wouldn't expect it to do what it did for me.

Take care.
Edited by kingj0n - 1/26/13 at 12:43pm
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