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Mits 3DA-1 stopped working on my Samsung - Page 5

post #121 of 243
FYI - January 2011 works.

So far it seems only May 2011 doesn't work. Correct me if I'm wrong.

Picked mine up from Vanns.com from their Clearance/Open box for under $50 (and they still have some left btw). I didn't ask about manufacture date, I just took a chance and got lucky.
post #122 of 243
Bought a July 2010 3da-1 on eBay and hooked it up to my HLT 5687sax from the ps3. Followed the procedure to "unlock" it and it seems to work just fine! My glasses are to arrive this afternoon (Ultraclear DLP) and I will let everyone know if they work or not. They should, I get a strong red tint out of my hdmi 3 port with the PC mode on and 3d mode enabled. Never had the "anylink+" enabled on my tv before, so that was a little weird!
post #123 of 243
Just to be clear.. I have the samsung 67a750 and if i buy the mitsubishi 3da-1 that is not a may 2011 build and do the reset, it should work with the Ultra-Clear DLP LINK Wireless 3D Glasses without an additional emitter. I would be using a time warner dvr that is 3d capable. Does the 3da-1 have to be built before may 2011 or just not that month?

Really appreciate it. Thanks
post #124 of 243
Quote:
Originally Posted by if200 View Post

Just to be clear.. I have the samsung 67a750 and if i buy the mitsubishi 3da-1 that is not a may 2011 build and do the reset, it should work with the Ultra-Clear DLP LINK Wireless 3D Glasses without an additional emitter. I would be using a time warner dvr that is 3d capable. Does the 3da-1 have to be built before may 2011 or just not that month?

Really appreciate it. Thanks


Yes, any 3da-1 built prior to may 2011 seems to be working, for sure anything pre-2011. I would look for something from 2010 to be safe, but it looks like January 2011 works too (see ray105's post).

Yes, with the DLP link 3d glasses, you will NOT need an additional emitter on your Samsung 67a750.
post #125 of 243
Scored an adapter only on Ebay to try it out. Did the reset procedure and as soon as I turned on the TV (67A750), I see a little box, 3D Mode: L/R. Had me freaked out first because it made the picture from my PS3 be off the edges of the screen. Then thought of the 3D mode button and switched to 3D normal. Tried it direct connect PS3<<Adapter<<TV first to get it all set up and to run the Auto Detect (67" please) on the PS3. Tried the Disney sampler disc and it went right into 3D. Then started up WipeoutHD, "3D display detected: Switch to 3D Mode? Hell Yeah or No" I selected Hell Yeah, and it started right up and was obviously in 3D mode. Next I tried PS3<<adapter<<Onkyo NR-807<<TV. Both items still worked, but only stereo sound reaching receiver. Tried to change audio output settings from PS3 manually, but no go. Forgot to just play a regular BD that way and see if I could get 5.1 to passthrough (verified NR-807 set to Through before I started all this). The final configuration I tried, which would have been the holy grail, was PS3<<NR-807<<Adapter<<TV. The PS3 was happily ready to output a 3D signal (Wipeout gave 3D display detected message), but no signal at all would pass through the receiver when 3D material was on. Receiver even flashed "No Signal", it just can't see it. I could see getting lucky on an older receiver without OSD, or maybe even without HDMI audio, but then what's the point. So quite happy it worked (Thanks Justin-Dawson, mad props!) but I'll be looking for an HDMI splitter on Monoprice, and will just use Optical through a second input for 3D games. Not too worried about movies as there aren't any good ones out yet, IMO (Are there any grown-up movies out besides Avatar that aren't conversions?). Oh, I'll have to get some glasses too, probably some UltraClear DLP since I don't have an emitter. One of the modes I switched too did look quite red, but that was the PS3 menu and wasn't even 3D. I'll have to turn on Wipeout again and see the color. Hell, if the UltraClears look good, I'll just be happy. Yay!
post #126 of 243
You really only notice the red tint when the scene is very dark or when there are black bars.
post #127 of 243
Hi I own a Samsung HLT6187SX/XAA DLP 3D Ready HDTV with a Onkyo TX-SR876 receiver which is not 3D capable. So does that mean my PS3 and Motorola DCX3400 need to have optical audio going to my receiver, and how many HDMI cables does the 3DA-1 except because I also might buy a 3D Blu-Ray player if the PS3 is not capable of playing 3D movies?

What is the best way to go in regards to buying this stuff & what are the best & most comfortable glasses to buy (1 pair needing to go over prescription glasses), I need 4 pairs and whatever pairs them up with the TV?

Do I need new HDMI wires if I have 1.3a Category 2 Certified?

I know I need a 3DA-1 with a build date before May 2011, does the 3DC-1000 have the 3DA-1 in it and if it does would that be the best way to go?
post #128 of 243
Hi all. I've finally bit the bullet and got myself a mits 3da-1 adapter after I read that I can unlock it to use with my samsung. Everything works great except for the pass-through for my motorola pvr. I have all my inputs (PS3, PC, PVR, XboX360) hooked into a Psyclone 4 to 1 HDMI switch and get 2d/3d passthrough from all except the cable box. Even if I plug it in directly to the adapter. I got a message the first time I switched to that input on the switch that said that my HDMI had been comprimised on the cable box. I have to use a non 3d hdmi port on the tv to watch anything on cable. Has anyone else had problems with the moto cable boxes and the 3da-1? If so, did you get it sorted?

Thanks
EJ
post #129 of 243
Answers in red.

Quote:
Originally Posted by uvman23 View Post
Hi I own a Samsung HLT6187SX/XAA DLP 3D Ready HDTV with a Onkyo TX-SR876 receiver which is not 3D capable. So does that mean my PS3 and Motorola DCX3400 need to have optical audio going to my receiver, and how many HDMI cables does the 3DA-1 except because I also might buy a 3D Blu-Ray player if the PS3 is not capable of playing 3D movies? The 3DA-1 has one HDMI input and one HDMI output. The PS3 will play 3D movies. You will need to bypass the AVR with HDMI, and you can use your optical for audio.

What is the best way to go in regards to buying this stuff & what are the best & most comfortable glasses to buy (1 pair needing to go over prescription glasses), I need 4 pairs and whatever pairs them up with the TV? If you just get the 3DA-1, you can use DLP-Link glasses w/o an emitter. About $50 here http://www.ultimate3dheaven.com/uldlpliwi3dg.html

Discussion here http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1296909

Do I need new HDMI wires if I have 1.3a Category 2 Certified? No. Any high speed cable works.

I know I need a 3DA-1 with a build date before May 2011, does the 3DC-1000 have the 3DA-1 in it and if it does would that be the best way to go? It does have the 3DA-1 included, but it's cheaper to use DLP-Link glasses and the 3DA-1 seperately (see above).
post #130 of 243
I've copied this post from another thread - I had purchased the 3D adapter package with the Mits box and Gefen spoofer from tru3d back in January, along with the Xpand 103 glasses. It worked perfectly for a couple of months, and then I started having trouble with the 3D setup on the hdmi input3 on my Sammy HLT50-89S. I tested and retested, and finally got a hold of a high level technician at tru3d that told me that he had worked on the 3D implementation of the DMD with Texas Instruments. He immediately offered to issue me an RA number so that I could exchange the Mits box and Gefen spoofer for the new Mits box that works with the Samsungs without the spoofer. (3DC-1000 vs 3DA-1?) All I had to do was return the original items. My understanding was that they were just going to reprogram the firmware in order to allow the Samsungs edid. So I was completely surprised when they sent me the entire Mits starter kit, complete with two pair of glasses. (anyone need two pair of glasses?) This type of service is above and beyond what many companies are willing to offer nowadays, and I want to thank tru3d for their excellent and knowledgeable service.
post #131 of 243
Quote:
Originally Posted by Augerhandle View Post

Answers in red.

By bypass HDMI you mean straight to the the adapter to the TV, right & audio from both PS3 & cable out to AVR via optical audio?

So with me having both the cable box & PS3 needing to go to the adapter with HDMI, would this switch work? http://www.monoprice.com/products/pr...seq=1&format=2

After posting my original question I read a lot threads on glasses and these are how they seem to stack up in regards to quality & comfort.

1:Real ID CrystalEyes 5, rechargeable (Saves money on batteries), comfortable, no rainbows but expensive and they also make a 4 but I don't know the difference, I'm still new to this.

2:3D Heaven Ultra-Clear,comfortable, non rechargeable, possible rainbow effect but second best to the CrystalEyes.

3:Optoma BG-ZD101, non rechargeable, have good optics but the arms break including the Viewsonic model which is identical.

4:True Depth 3D DLP-LINK, got good reviews on Amazon but not on AVS.

5:What ever comes in the Samsung or Mitsubishi starter kits & If there are anymore I'm missing or that could be better please chime in.

So if I buy 1 pair of CrystalEyes 5, 2 pairs of 3D Heaven Ultra-Clears & a 3DA-1 (build date pre May 2011) I will be all set to go, and they will all work at the same time?

Can 3D hurt the TV at all, because DLP's have issues of there own in regards to the color wheels, Bulbs & LED's & I would think it would put some kind of stress on them right?
post #132 of 243
Answers in red

Quote:
Originally Posted by uvman23 View Post

By bypass HDMI you mean straight to the the adapter to the TV, right & audio from both PS3 & cable out to AVR via optical audio? Yes, but you may be able to run your cable box (HDMI) thru the AVR. The PS3 will definitely have to bypass it.

So with me having both the cable box & PS3 needing to go to the adapter with HDMI, would this switch work? http://www.monoprice.com/products/pr...seq=1&format=2

It should, yes.

After posting my original question I read a lot threads on glasses and these are how they seem to stack up in regards to quality & comfort.

1:Real ID CrystalEyes 5, rechargeable (Saves money on batteries), comfortable, no rainbows but expensive and they also make a 4 but I don't know the difference, I'm still new to this.

2:3D Heaven Ultra-Clear,comfortable, non rechargeable, possible rainbow effect but second best to the CrystalEyes.

3:Optoma BG-ZD101, non rechargeable, have good optics but the arms break including the Viewsonic model which is identical.

4:True Depth 3D DLP-LINK, got good reviews on Amazon but not on AVS.

5:What ever comes in the Samsung or Mitsubishi starter kits & If there are anymore I'm missing or that could be better please chime in. Not available as DLP-Link. These are IR (infrared) only.

So if I buy 1 pair of CrystalEyes 5, 2 pairs of 3D Heaven Ultra-Clears & a 3DA-1 (build date pre May 2011) I will be all set to go, and they will all work at the same time? Yes. Make sure the glasses are DLP-Link
post #133 of 243
Thanks for the info Augerhandle.
post #134 of 243
Quote:
Originally Posted by uvman23 View Post

Thanks for the info Augerhandle.

You're welcome. Have fun!
post #135 of 243
Quote:
Originally Posted by ray105 View Post

FYI - January 2011 works.

So far it seems only May 2011 doesn't work. Correct me if I'm wrong.

Picked mine up from Vanns.com from their Clearance/Open box for under $50 (and they still have some left btw). I didn't ask about manufacture date, I just took a chance and got lucky.


took a chance on this...there is a 7 day return window for clearance items, money back, so if the date is wrong, ill just send it back
post #136 of 243
i just bought two actually...my brother has a mits 3d...


funny thing...i ordered the first for 53.33 then went back to the page and it was up to 77.89....then i refreshed the page and it was down to 48.49...so i bought the second one

anyone else find that odd?
post #137 of 243
Quote:
Originally Posted by sneakking View Post

i just bought two actually...my brother has a mits 3d...


funny thing...i ordered the first for 53.33 then went back to the page and it was up to 77.89....then i refreshed the page and it was down to 48.49...so i bought the second one

anyone else find that odd?

Yes, that is odd! I just checked and the clearance/open box units are currently 77.58. Refreshing doesn't make a difference. They must have noticed their clearance units have been hot items lately!
post #138 of 243
Exactly. Who would have thought? Old 3DA-1's have become a new commodity with price fluctuations.
post #139 of 243
Quote:
Originally Posted by ray105 View Post

Yes, that is odd! I just checked and the clearance/open box units are currently 77.58. Refreshing doesn't make a difference. They must have noticed their clearance units have been hot items lately!

I think i figured it out....if you click on the clearance option tab, it lists a clearance item and it has a specific clearance code...if they have more available there is a tab below that item that says "+ see more clearance items"


so for some reason they have them individually priced, although i don't know why, when i bought my first they didn't offer the lowest priced clearance item instead of the one that was 5 dollars more expensive

now they are down to the last clearance that for some reason is almost 30 dollars more expensive
post #140 of 243
i got a response from CS today saying they can't verify the manufacture date....so we'll see how it turns out when they arrive!
post #141 of 243
Just got a 3DC-1000 Oct.10 build date today from ebay apears to work don't have glasses yet a pair of UC links on the way. I was wondering if it's ok to leave the 3d mode on or do I have to go back into the TV menu and turn it off and than back on when watching 3D. Thanks
post #142 of 243
Quote:
Originally Posted by chewbacca121 View Post

Just got a 3DC-1000 Oct.10 build date today from ebay apears to work don't have glasses yet a pair of UC links on the way. I was wondering if it's ok to leave the 3d mode on or do I have to go back into the TV menu and turn it off and than back on when watching 3D. Thanks

Normally you want the 3D mode in the TV turned off when watching 2D becasue the TV's 3D mode introduces artifacts such as a red tint. The adapter cannot turn on or off the 3D mode in the TV, but it can automatically pass 2D through and automatically begin decoding 3D as long as the 3D signal has the HDMI 3D signal flag that tells the adatper it is a 3D signal. The automatic mode is called 3D Mode Normal.
post #143 of 243
Thanks, after playing with it for awhile my TV swicthes 3D mode off automaticly when the 3D signal is gone.
post #144 of 243
Quote:
Originally Posted by sneakking View Post

i got a response from CS today saying they can't verify the manufacture date....so we'll see how it turns out when they arrive!

Mine just arrived yesterday from Vanns. Manufacture date of January 2011. Working great with my Samsung 61A750 and Ultra Clear DLP Link glasses!
post #145 of 243
72" Samsung anyone verify working solution?
To get this right, to have 3d work, one needs only Ultra Clear DLP Link glasses (or other dlp link glasses) and a Mitsubishi 3DA-1 build date prior to May 2011.
Correct? Thank you...
post #146 of 243
Quote:
Originally Posted by bchangus View Post

Mine just arrived yesterday from Vanns. Manufacture date of January 2011. Working great with my Samsung 61A750 and Ultra Clear DLP Link glasses!

received both of mine today. One was March 2011 the other August 2010. I will test both to check compatibility on my samsung. Neither of my packages included the Sync Interconnect Cable which was mentioned in the manual. Does anyone know if it is actually necessary?

edit: I have an emitter, btw
post #147 of 243
FYI - i just tested March 2011 and it did not work for me

August 2010 worked perfectly first try
post #148 of 243
If you're using an emitter then you will need that sync interface cable.
post #149 of 243
I plug the emitter directly into the TV and it works perfectly , what advantage is using the interface cable?
post #150 of 243
Apparently none if it's all working for you. Supposedly the adapter needed to sync with the IR signal coming from the tv, which is why there was a cable and an IR sync input on the 3DA1.
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