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Mits 3DA-1 stopped working on my Samsung - Page 6

post #151 of 243
I've used emitters straight from the TV and never once had an issue with the 3DA1 sync. I guess it is there if you have problems with sync issues.
post #152 of 243
it seemed to work without the pass through for me
post #153 of 243
Apprently the sync cable allows the 3D adapter to know if the TV's 3D mode is turned on (sees the sync signal as it passes through the adapter). If the 3D mode is not turned on and a 3D signals is detected, the adapter will remind you to turn on the 3D mode. If the cable is not used the adapter will still work but there will be no reminder.
post #154 of 243
That makes sense to me.
post #155 of 243
An easy working confirmation.... Samsung 72" DLP.... Mitsubishi 3da-1 (purchased open box from Vanns, build date November 2010)..... 2 pair Ultra-Clear DLP LINK Wireless 3D Glasses ! WooHoo Cheap, Easy, Large 3D
post #156 of 243
Quote:
Originally Posted by gsd102003 View Post

An easy working confirmation.... Samsung 72" DLP.... Mitsubishi 3da-1 (purchased open box from Vanns, build date November 2010)..... 2 pair Ultra-Clear DLP LINK Wireless 3D Glasses ! WooHoo Cheap, Easy, Large 3D

Isn't it great? Resident Evil is the best non-animated retail purchasable title I've found so far for 3D quality, same cameras as used for Avatar. I'm looking forward to getting Avatar though, perhaps with a BDT-310 so I can have Blu-ray audio while watching 3D movies. I get around it currently by having the output from my PS3 go through an HDMI splitter, but I have to manually switch audio output in the PS3 from HDMI to optical for 3D applications.
post #157 of 243
Agreed such a sweet deal, no wonder Samsung wants nothing to do with this, who would upgrade there DLP's?
Avatar is pretty awesome also.. Only took 2-3 weeks to get after sending in the form from the Panasonic BDT-110.... The BDT-310 would be a great choice!
post #158 of 243
Quote:
Originally Posted by gsd102003 View Post

Agreed such a sweet deal, no wonder Samsung wants nothing to do with this, who would upgrade there DLP's?
Avatar is pretty awesome also.. Only took 2-3 weeks to get after sending in the form from the Panasonic BDT-110.... The BDT-310 would be a great choice!

Agreed, none of the in-store demos I've seen come close to the 3D quality of my DLP (Sammy 67A750). I was blown away. I'll have to wait till I see Avatar, as that's the last 3D movie I've seen in the theater, but currently our opinion is that the 3D on our TV, looks better than the theater when the 3D is done well on the disc. Good examples being Resident Evil, and Open Season. Big Wave:Tahiti is alright, but the 3D is nowhere near Resident Evil quality. SI:Swimsuit demo is worse, it almost makes me think it's a conversion (it might be for all I know). Motorstorm Pacific Rift, and Wipeout HD look excellent. I'm looking forward to seeing how Uncharted 3, Resistance 3, and Battlefield 3 look in 3D. 3 of the biggest blockbuster titles coming out this fall on the PS3, and all in 3D.
post #159 of 243
The PS3 now outputs DTS-HD audio.

Firmware 3.70

3D playback* of Blu-ray Java ("BD-J") content is now supported.

DTS-HD audio output is now supported while playing Blu-ray 3D content

http://us.playstation.com/support/sy.../ps3/index.htm

(Dolby TruHD not supported yet, but hey)
post #160 of 243
Quote:
Originally Posted by Augerhandle View Post

The PS3 now outputs DTS-HD audio.

Firmware 3.70

3D playback* of Blu-ray Java™ ("BD-J") content is now supported.

DTS-HD audio output is now supported while playing Blu-ray 3D™ content

http://us.playstation.com/support/sy.../ps3/index.htm

(Dolby TruHD not supported yet, but hey)

I did not know that. Still doesn't work for me though as I need to have the adapter before my 1.3 receiver if I want it to be able to receive the HDMI signal, but the adapter only seems to pass 2 channel audio, so I'm using the optical output for audio when using 3D, and have the HDMI to a splitter so I can get full quality audio for regular blu-rays or SACDs. I'm open to suggestions if you have a better way though.
post #161 of 243
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mounta1n View Post


Agreed, none of the in-store demos I've seen come close to the 3D quality of my DLP (Sammy 67A750). I was blown away. I'll have to wait till I see Avatar, as that's the last 3D movie I've seen in the theater, but currently our opinion is that the 3D on our TV, looks better than the theater when the 3D is done well on the disc. Good examples being Resident Evil, and Open Season. Big Wave:Tahiti is alright, but the 3D is nowhere near Resident Evil quality. SI:Swimsuit demo is worse, it almost makes me think it's a conversion (it might be for all I know). Motorstorm Pacific Rift, and Wipeout HD look excellent. I'm looking forward to seeing how Uncharted 3, Resistance 3, and Battlefield 3 look in 3D. 3 of the biggest blockbuster titles coming out this fall on the PS3, and all in 3D.

Agreed on the Swimsuit demo. It looks like a popup book which is typical of a conversion.
post #162 of 243
Would you guys say it's safe to assume that a unit with serial number of 102758 is good? If my reasoning is sound that would make it around a June 2010 build date

I figure that generally serial numbers are chronological to a certain extent and the serial shown in this post says it was mfg August 2010
post #163 of 243
Quote:
Originally Posted by jason brent View Post
Would you guys say it's safe to assume that a unit with serial number of 102758 is good? If my reasoning is sound that would make it around a June 2010 build date

I figure that generally serial numbers are chronological to a certain extent and the serial shown in this post says it was mfg August 2010
sounds right...mine from march 2011 is 105555 and the one from august is in the 102XXX range
post #164 of 243
Quote:
Originally Posted by sneakking View Post
sounds right...mine from march 2011 is 105555 and the one from august is in the 102XXX range
Interesting...I was assuming that the 10 meant from 2010, then the next 2 digits were the week number of the year, and the last 2 were a simple count.

Clearly that's not the case if you have a 2011 model with a 10xxxx number. At least it seems like the chronological theory might hold up though. I got it from OneCall....they said they didn't see a manufacture date sticker on it. I guess I'll be finding out soon enough.
post #165 of 243
Quote:
Originally Posted by jason brent View Post

Interesting...I was assuming that the 10 meant from 2010, then the next 2 digits were the week number of the year, and the last 2 were a simple count.

Clearly that's not the case if you have a 2011 model with a 10xxxx number. At least it seems like the chronological theory might hold up though. I got it from OneCall....they said they didn't see a manufacture date sticker on it. I guess I'll be finding out soon enough.

hope for the best...a little fishy that they "couldn't locate" the date sticker, when it's right below the serial number

either they're full of it, or someone scratched it off
post #166 of 243
Quote:
Originally Posted by sneakking View Post

hope for the best...a little fishy that they "couldn't locate" the date sticker, when it's right below the serial number

either they're full of it, or someone scratched it off

I was a little hesitant, too, but I've done business with OneCall before and I've not had anything but the best experience with them plus their reputation is pretty solid. Additionally, in that pic that was posted on page 4, it looks like it was a separate sticker so it is plausible that it alone could be removed (although I don't know for sure why)

But when you say "scratched off" I'm getting the impression that it isn't a simple sticker.

Based on a couple days searching, it didn't appear that finding a verified pre-Jan 2011 unit would be exceedingly easy to find. Considering that, I'll likely still keep the unit but have to do the EDID hack. I haven't read enough about all the steps involved in that procedure, though.
post #167 of 243
OK, so the Ultimate3dHeaven glasses showed up a couple days ago (VERY pleased with the service from them btw), and today the 3DA-1 showed up. There is an actual manufacture date on the unit, just not on the box which is what they went by I guess. It is an August 2010 unit.

No question....this is the easiest 'hack' I've ever done to any gear, lol. Worked exactly like was described right off the bat. Now, figuring out all the other settings took a few more minutes, but still quite painless. From the time I opened the box til I had 3d was less than 10 minutes for sure.

I guess I didn't know for sure what to expect, but I gotta say that I'm not BLOWN away. I don't have much else to compare to except Avatar which we saw 3 times at the imax, so my base comparison base isn't exactly apples to apples.

PQ seems to be excellent on our 6187 sammy. I kinda feel like the images are going *into* the tv whereas I was expecting it to be the opposite. I didn't get the screaming deal some of you got on the 3DA-1, but considering the circumstances I'm pretty happy. One thing's for sure though....61" is waaaay too small for 3D, lol.
post #168 of 243
Calvtanzio: Did you get the Panny? What do you think of the 2D to 3D conversion?
Now I have a switcher that automatically switches between Direct TV and the DVD player, I also hooked up optical audio and all is going directly to HDMI 3. The only problem I have is sometimes the TV wont switch to 3D. I have to turn it off then back on.
This is the switch.
Amazon
HDMI 3-In 1-Out HDMI Auto Switch with 1.5 ft. Cable
Sold by: Eforcity
Condition: new
Quantity: 1
$8.26 each
Item subtotal: $8.26
post #169 of 243
Quote:
Originally Posted by larrylwill View Post

Calvtanzio: Did you get the Panny? What do you think of the 2D to 3D conversion?
Now I have a switcher that automatically switches between Direct TV and the DVD player, I also hooked up optical audio and all is going directly to HDMI 3. The only problem I have is sometimes the TV wont switch to 3D. I have to turn it off then back on.
This is the switch.
Amazon
HDMI 3-In 1-Out HDMI Auto Switch with 1.5 ft. Cable
Sold by: Eforcity
Condition: new
Quantity: 1
$8.26 each
Item subtotal: $8.26

Hey larry I decided to hold off on the panny, the fiancée and I just bought our first home and with all the expenses of moving were gonna wait till were settled and buy the panny player along with a new 3D Tv for the bedroom all at once..so to answer your question no lol unfortunately I have to wait but hopefully by next month I'll pick it up... I'm still really eager to try the conversion out & I looked more into the player it looks awesome especially with all the online features (Netflix ,VUDU,etc)...
post #170 of 243
Oh boy, oh boy, oh boy!
I read this forum and immediately set out to get a used 3DC-1000 from eBay, manufacture date January 2011 (last known working date on 3da-1, so I was sweating it a little). Paid $130 (no glasses) so not a great deal, but the hack worked perfectly! Hassle free 3D on my Samsung DLP! Killzone 3 in glorious 3D (awesome BTW). As a bonus my panny bdt310 will now send 24p, where before I was stuck on 60p (I know there's still judder, but I trust my TV to deal better with it.)
I want to thank whoever found out about this, as I would be out twice the cost trying to get it working, and not nearly so well!!
post #171 of 243
Quote:
Originally Posted by larrylwill View Post
Calvtanzio: Did you get the Panny? What do you think of the 2D to 3D conversion?
Now I have a switcher that automatically switches between Direct TV and the DVD player, I also hooked up optical audio and all is going directly to HDMI 3. The only problem I have is sometimes the TV wont switch to 3D. I have to turn it off then back on.
This is the switch.
Amazon
HDMI 3-In 1-Out HDMI Auto Switch with 1.5 ft. Cable
Sold by: Eforcity
Condition: new
Quantity: 1
$8.26 each
Item subtotal: $8.26
I have the dmp-bdt310 and love this machine. But after much tweaking the past few days I can't recommend it for converting 2D to 3D. Overall it's a toy gimmick, ineffective, even if you turn it up to extremes. Add to this that dark scenes suffer from the glasses and it's just not worth it. There were moments that broke this trend. When Iron Man is putting on his suit I would see depth as the outer shell of the suit was placed closer than parts within. Most impressive was Planet Earth when going over the Grand Canyon. The sides of the canyon were placed ahead of the floor, and the illusion of flying over a canyon was just awesome. So I'd say source material makes or breaks the effect. For general movies, pretty blah, especially on dark movies, but I haven't tried everything. Maybe I'll try star wars next. :-)
post #172 of 243
Quote:
Originally Posted by Benananda View Post
I have the dmp-bdt310 and love this machine. But after much tweaking the past few days I can't recommend it for converting 2D to 3D. Overall it's a toy gimmick, ineffective, even if you turn it up to extremes. Add to this that dark scenes suffer from the glasses and it's just not worth it. There were moments that broke this trend. When Iron Man is putting on his suit I would see depth as the outer shell of the suit was placed closer than parts within. Most impressive was Planet Earth when going over the Grand Canyon. The sides of the canyon were placed ahead of the floor, and the illusion of flying over a canyon was just awesome. So I'd say source material makes or breaks the effect. For general movies, pretty blah, especially on dark movies, but I haven't tried everything. Maybe I'll try star wars next. :-)
agreed...2d to 3d is mostly a gimmick....the only major differences I've seen are in on-screen text
post #173 of 243
Quote:
Originally Posted by jason brent View Post
OK, so the Ultimate3dHeaven glasses showed up a couple days ago (VERY pleased with the service from them btw), and today the 3DA-1 showed up. There is an actual manufacture date on the unit, just not on the box which is what they went by I guess. It is an August 2010 unit.

No question....this is the easiest 'hack' I've ever done to any gear, lol. Worked exactly like was described right off the bat. Now, figuring out all the other settings took a few more minutes, but still quite painless. From the time I opened the box til I had 3d was less than 10 minutes for sure.

I guess I didn't know for sure what to expect, but I gotta say that I'm not BLOWN away. I don't have much else to compare to except Avatar which we saw 3 times at the imax, so my base comparison base isn't exactly apples to apples.

PQ seems to be excellent on our 6187 sammy. I kinda feel like the images are going *into* the tv whereas I was expecting it to be the opposite. I didn't get the screaming deal some of you got on the 3DA-1, but considering the circumstances I'm pretty happy. One thing's for sure though....61" is waaaay too small for 3D, lol.
hey, that's awesome
post #174 of 243
Hi, I just got a used 3da-1 (September 2010) to hopefully use with my Samsung dlp tv. I hooked the hdmi out from the 3d blu-ray player to the hdmi in on the 3da-1, and the hdmi out from the 3da-1 to my tv. I am using a panasonic 3d blu ray player and it works directly to the tv fine, but when I put the 3da-1 between, I don't get any power light on the 3da-1.

I didn't think I needed to connect the din cable. Do I need that installed? I left that at the office so I can't check just now.

Any info greatly appreciated. I'm hoping the September 2010 unit will allow me to set it to mode 1 (unrestricted).

Thanks all.
post #175 of 243
If the Panny 3D blu ray player worked when connected directly to your tv (which it should), why did you bother getting the adapter?
post #176 of 243
I wanted to have the adapter for other 3d inputs, from cable, streaming, internet, etc.
post #177 of 243
Ok the DIN connector is used to sync the emitter/shutter signal between the adapter and the TV. I use it but others don't and say the shutter sync works fine. If you want to connect those sources you should get an hdmi switch.

If you had the Panny setup to output checkerboard then there's no need to run it through the 3DA-1. I think the adapter should still power up and pass through the signal. But the fact that you're running a checkerboard signal into a checkerboard converter might do something weird, I don't know. A better test would be to switch the Panny back to side by side or top/bottom output mode...then run that into the adapter. Or just run one of your other 3D sources into it.

Does the power light come off and on with nothing connected to it?
post #178 of 243
The Mitsubsihi adapter will not power on unless the source device is sending a live HDMI signal. Make sure the Bluray is plugged in and powered on. Also check again that you did not reverse the HDMI IN and HDMI OUT on the adatper - it is really easy to do.

Panasonic to the IN and TV to the OUT.
post #179 of 243
Also, did you do the button press sequence yet? I believe you do that with the other devices powered off. I just did it right away, and turned everything on and it worked, so I don't know which lights would've come on or not if I hadn't performed the sequence first.
post #180 of 243
Thanks all. Can someone tell me what the barrel plug size is on the oem power supply adapter? Is it 1.35mm X 3.5mm or 2.1mm X 5.5mm (or something else)? I think the adapter I have is not the original and might not be contacting correctly.
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