"Official" Onkyo TX-NR809 Thread - Page 155

Mine always powers up to the source it was last on. Sorry, I don't know how to get it back to doing that. Maybe a full reset but then you need a half day to get it set back up the way you like it.

How are you controlling your setup? If you are using a Harmony remote, e.g., you may be setting a mode when you turn things on.

HDMI control, if on, will change the input to whatever device you turn on, such as cable box, blu-ray player etc. I would think you would want that off, but it all depends upon how you operate your system.

I now have a lip-sync issue with any Blu-Ray disc.I am using a Denon 2012 to the Onkyo,then the Panasonic AE5000 projector.I have tried two other Blu-Ray players without success.The only way I can correct this is manually which is not really satisfactory.Any ideas what is now causing this?Would a factory reset help?
Many thanks
Charles
P.S.Have now done a factory reset. No difference
Edited by charles norwich - 11/10/12 at 10:27am

Well I ordered my 809 a couple days ago from amazon. I tried to cancel my order last night based on the HDMI out failures I read about. Amazon said it was to late in the process to cancel. I think I will give it a go and hope for the best. I do read a lot of happy happy 809 owners. Fingers crossed.

Had mine for a bit and it works great. Plenty of power too.

Got mine a week ago and just got it connected....Having this issue.....I have the two HDMI outputs connected...Main to the TV and the other to the PJ...while watching a blue ray if I turn the TV off, it turns the blue ray player (Panny DMP-BD80) off simultaneously...I tried changing the "Monitor Out" setting to the various setttings but cannot avoid this..tried with both, main only, sub only, etc...the TV start automatically whenever I turned on the blue ray player and if I turn the TV off manually, the blue ray player will turn off at the same time...I only was able to watch the movie in the PJ by disconnecting the HDMI cable from the TV and then turning it off manually....apparently some setting is set to control the TV and blue ray player, but cannot determine which setting this is....

Any of those ONKYO experts in this forum can help....will appreciatte.....

Thanks.....

Something Ive noticed on the fans, because I read a few posts where they never come on. Mine are always on after a blu-ray flick, because I run it cranked pretty good. When ever I stop the movie and walk over to my player, i hear them humming. They usually run about 3-4 mins after I stop the movie, then they shut off.

Im actually glad they put fans in, cooler is better.

Hi mariokrt64, go into BD80 player menu and turn off HDMI Control (Viera Link).

Even if my TV is a Sony? I will try it anyway....

If you have HDMI control turned on it will cause interaction with devices turning power on and off. In some methods of control, this is desirable, it others it creates problems. Try turning it off on the Onkyo and the TV as well.

Hi. I am having a problem configuring the TX-NR809 to do what I want with the HDMI configuration, so I thought I would post the question here. Apologies in advance if I have missed a post in the thread that had the answer...

I have my TX-NR809 hooked up to a Sony HX929 TV. Because of the location of the BR deck and a couple other devices near the TV, and that I only have a couple HDMI cables between the TV area and a hidden A/V rack that has the Onkyo in it, I am using the HDMI ARC to route the audio from an HDMI input on the TV back to the receiver. However, it appears from the settings that I have to have HDMI Control (RHID) turned on in order to have ARC work. Technically, these are different as you can disable CEC (RHID) and keep ARC on. The issue with this config is that when RHID is on, I cannot disable the Audio TV OUT on the HDMI output, which causes the TV to get audio as well as the receiver, which is very annoying and results in WAF problems.

Is there a way to enable the use of ARC and disable audio passthrough to the TV? The Onkyo firmware seems to couple a lot of settings together so I can't have more fine grained control.

thanks in advance!

Mike

Turn the volume down on the TV - perhaps others have a sexier solution, but this is what I've come up with.

Here we go again. So now the AVR is also giving me a blue screen once in a while when using component input, wii specifically. This all started after the HDMI problems I was having and a full re-calibration/setup. Seems a simple reset is all it needs to fix it, but super annoying since I now have my AVR connected to a battery backup that's a bit harder to reach. Anyone else have this issue?

Also, is anyone out there able to control PS3 (slim) with HDMI control with the AVR? If possible does it also work with oRemote?
I haven't for the life of me been able to get it to work, unless my 809 truly is a lemon...
Edited by razrsharp - 11/19/12 at 7:44am

I download the latest firmware using the internet update on my TX-NR809 about a month ago. I believe it was the 7/2012 firmware. Anyway, I noticed that the HDMI handshake takes longer when turning on my TV and the Onkyo AVR. I see HDMI Startup on the front panel of the AVR and "ONKYO" in big letters on my TV. I didn't notice this before. Anyone else experience this? Did they change something in the way the HDMI starts up on the AVR that causes this?

It doesn't seem to affect the way the system works.

I think I found the answer to this. I must have changed the HDMI passthrough setting in the receiver. I used to have it so Video was passed through when the receiver was off. I turned this off after updating the firmware. I think leaving this on, causes the HDMI board to remain active, so when you start up the receiver it doesn't have to totally boot the HDMI board? Not sure if that makes sense.

quick question. i'm using the multichannel analog inputs from a dvd-audio player. from what i can tell, the 809 locks the multichannel audio and bypasses any sort of additional processing and disables audyssey. is there any setting I can change to be able to apply surround/listening modes to audio that comes through the multichannel direct inputs?

Since there seems to be few answers to many questions here I suggest going to the source.

The Onkyo Moderator on the site is pretty speedy answering genuine questions.

http://onkyoproductsupport.forumotion.com/

Doug k

All that kind of processing is done with the signal in the digital domain. When an analog signal enters the Receiver, it is beyond the point where that circuitry resides. For things like Audyssey to work on those signals, a conversion back to digital for the processing would be needed, and then a d/a conversion to pass it to the power amplifying stage. Would surely suffer a quality hit. Hope that helps.

thanks RBlum. That explains it.

http://www.avsforum.com/t/1442582/just-ran-dvd-essentials-hd-calibration-on-my-epson-8350-wow-unimpressed-need-new-pj

I was struggling to get my Epson 8350 to calibrate properly as seen in the above thread. Upon disconnecting my BD player from the Onkyo 809 and plugging directly into the projector my problem went away. So I decided to upgrade the firmware in my Onkyo 809 and this solved my problem. Basically the image being fed into an HDMI input and then output to my PJ from the 809 was coming out very dark. This also made test signals from the DV Essentials calibration tool appear way too dark. The firmware update fixed whatever this may have been. This had to be a known issue. Can anyone tell me what it was?

Greg

You should read
http://www.avsforum.com/t/1341271/official-onkyo-tx-nr809-thread/4400_100#post_22197867

Hello,

I was trying to figure if the 'minimum continuous power' rating (135W @ 8 Ohms/ per channel) is also the RMS rating for the amp? if not, does anyone know what the actual RMS value is?

Here's what the manual says:

Rated Output Power

All channels: (North American)
135 watts minimum continuous power
per channel, 8 ohm loads, 2 channels
driven from 20 Hz to 20 kHz, with a
maximum total harmonic distortion of
0.08% (FTC)

160 watts minimum continuous power
per channel, 6 ohm loads, 2 channels
driven at 1 kHz, with a maximum total
harmonic distortion of 0.1% (FTC)

145 watts minimum continuous power
per channel, 8 ohm loads, 2 channels
driven at 1 kHz, with a maximum total
harmonic distortion of 0.7% (FTC)

(Others)
7 ch × 180 W at 6 ohms, 1 kHz, 1 ch driven
of 1 % (IEC)

Maximum Effective Output Power
(Asian)
7 ch × 230 W at 6 ohms, 1 kHz, 1 ch driven

(JEITA)
Dynamic Power*
* IEC60268-Short-term maximum output power
300 W (3 Ω, Front)
250 W (4 Ω, Front)
150 W (8 Ω, Front)

THD+N (Total Harmonic Distortion+Noise)
0.08% (20 Hz - 20 kHz, half power)

Damping Factor 60 (Front, 1 kHz, 8 Ω)
Input Sensitivity and Impedance (Unbalance)
200 mV/47 kΩ (LINE)
2.5 mV/47 kΩ (PHONO MM)
Rated RCA Output Level and Impedance
200 mV/470 Ω (PRE OUT)
Maximum RCA Output Level and Impedance
4.6 V/470 Ω (PRE OUT)
Phono Overload 70 mV (MM 1 kHz 0.5%)
Frequency Response 5 Hz - 100 kHz/+1 dB, -3 dB (Direct mode)
Tone Control Characteristics
±10 dB, 50 Hz (BASS)
±10 dB, 20 kHz (TREBLE)
Signal to Noise Ratio 110 dB (LINE, IHF-A)
80 dB (PHONO MM, IHF-A)

Speaker Impedance 4 or 6 Ω - 16 Ω

As a 2 channel amp on a test bench pumping sine waves into an 8 ohm resistive load, calling it a 135 wpc amp would appear to be both legal and technically sound.

If you called it "Yet another 100 wpc AVR" you'd be good.

The extra 35 watts and $2 will get you a cup of coffee in most US Starbucks. They mean that the AVR can play about 2 dB louder than an actual 100 wpc AVR, which is a discernible but not all that noticeable amount of additional loudness.

I'm more interested in this: "Audyssey MultEQ® XT* "

I just pulled the trigger on this receiver. In skimming through the thread I don't see many issues that plague the NR609 HDMI card, although I haven't read each page word for word. In general, is this receiver any more reliable than other Onkyo receivers?

Also I plan on placing a USB powered fan on top of the receiver to aid in cooling. Does the USB port stay powered or is it only on when the receiver is on?

I've owned and loved mine for going on two years now. It has been inside a vertical equipment rack that is enclosed on the front and sides(I always leave the front door open a few inches). The 809 doesn't seem to get too hot, and I have had no trouble with it. A 608 that I installed at my parents' house did have an issue with the HDMI board, and had to be repaired.

I have only used the front USB port, and only for a wireless adapter when the receiver is operating, so I don't know if it is powered when the receiver is off.

Here are some results from Home Theater Mag that might help you

This from the 1009 which is rated at 135x9

Five channels driven continuously into 8-ohm loads:
0.1% distortion at 116.5 watts
1% distortion at 131.2 watts

Seven channels driven continuously into 8-ohm loads:
0.1% distortion at 86.1 watts
1% distortion at 100.6 watts

This is interesting. In driving 5 channels, would it be worth bi-amping the front left and right channels? Or would the left/right channels receiver 86.1x2 each?

Not sure on bi-amping. Personally, +100 watts is a lot of power, and I think these 135x7 or 9 Onkyo's push plenty of power at 5 channels. If you need more, Id get a proper amp like Outlaw.

I'm running Klipsch Reference speakers which are very efficient, so I know the Onkyo has plenty of juice for me.

how much power is theoretically available depends on how hard all the channels are being driven. If (as folks generally say is the case) the surrounds are never as loud as fromt three, then you might get full power from the front three playing real world signals, even with biampin, especially in light of the below.

Even if you double power that's 3 dB (one notch) louder. My research suggests that the tweeter (where the "high" amp goes) gets something like 20 percent or so of total power with real world movies and music. So the most you could really gain is 20 percent more power, a bit less than 1 dB.

Moreover, the extra power does not help a bit if you are not generating audible distortion with currently available power. 100 watts from a 100 watt amp sounds exactly like 100 watts from a 1000 watt amp. Nick from Anthem, who posts on these boards mostly in the Anthem threads, suggests that IF your amps are clipping because of requirements for bass/mids, then by biamping you gain the advantage that you are not connecting a clipping amplifier to the tweeter. Clipping basically creates harmonics - - i.e. higher frequency multiples of whatever the frequency content is in the "real" signal. If you biamp even if you don't stop the clipping you keep at least some of the most annoying (high frequency) hamonics from ever reaching the tweeter, so you don't hear them, making the system sound a bit cleaner than it otherwise would. Because the high amp is only putting out 20 percent as much power as the mid/woof amp, so it is not cliipping. Not everybody buys this, but it make sense to me.

In general, though, if you are driving your amps hard enough to clip them, the solution is a more powerful amp, not biamping with a receiver.

after agonizing over this receiver for a month i finally pulled the trigger yesterday when the price started dropping on Amazon.
It arrived today and i got to hooking it up after work.

I've got two MAJOR issues:
I've got an HTPC running XBMC. Whenever i switch to that source i get audio, and no video for at least 15-20 seconds. It doesn't matter if i'm powering up, switching from another source, or coming out of a menu. Since this is where 90% of my useage is, it's a big deal.

the other, less serious issue is switching between music tracks. the next track starts playing and there's 2 seconds of silence before the sound comes back. this only happens with manual switching, if i just let it play it's fine.

I know i read about handshaking issues in this thread, and i'm guessing that's my video problem. Has anyone found a solution or a work-around. I LOVE everything else about this unit, and it was my ideal set of features, that's why i gambled. But if i can't get rid of this video problem it's going to have to go back.