or Connect
AVS › AVS Forum › Display Devices › Digital Hi-End Projectors - $3,000+ USD MSRP › Optoma HD8300/HD33/HD3300 1080p 3D Projectors announced
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:

Optoma HD8300/HD33/HD3300 1080p 3D Projectors announced - Page 5

post #121 of 196
i was pretty sure i was going to take the 3d plunge with one of these until i realized how much new equipment i'd need to buy - my PS3 doesn't pass hi-res audio with 3d output, and my receiver (Onkyo 805) won't pass a 3d signal in its switcher...
post #122 of 196
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by oleus View Post

i was pretty sure i was going to take the 3d plunge with one of these until i realized how much new equipment i'd need to buy - my PS3 doesn't pass hi-res audio with 3d output, and my receiver (Onkyo 805) won't pass a 3d signal in its switcher...

You could still spend about $200 for a Panasonic DMP-BD310 Blu-ray 3D player that has dual HDMI outputs. You would connect one to your existing Onkyo for the HD audio and connect the other to the projector for the 3D video. Also this player has 2D to 3D conversion that you might want to play around with (some people enjoy it watching for some DVDs and 2D blu-rays, while others only want to see true Blu-ray 3D titles). You could connect the AVR's HDMI output to the projector's 2nd HDMI input and use that for your 2D video sources.
post #123 of 196
Quote:
Originally Posted by home4sale2 View Post

Guitarman, like others I am watching this thread with interest. Appreciate you doing the due diligence for us along with review(s) that are beginning to pop up. I have a few questions, apologize but I am new to the 3d topics and looking for some education. Looks like the 3d RF glasses from Optoma are yet to be released and may be the way to go. But when the specs say that you can use DLP link glasses as well, I imagine they mean backward compatibility with folks that have already invested in them. Does DLP link need an emitter as well (separate from the one that comes with this unit)? For someone like me with no 3d glasses, is it best for me to buy RF glasses?

Like some others (not all), I am wondering if the $500 premium for HD3300 is worth it. I am hoping that the default settings in HD33 and tweaks it offers is sufficient for my needs. As for warranty, even if a bulb blows in the next two years, I can probably get a new one for cheaper than warrantly. I watch maybe 2-5 hours per week, max. At the end of the day, I am trying to squeeze 3d in my budget (it was $1500 and I hadn't accounted for 4 glasses I am already thinking of purchasing now) rather than pay for extended warranty so look forward to others' thoughts on this and how they are approaching it. That darn black projector would be nice though. I have waited 2 years already but just maybe if I waited a couple more months for the price to drop, decisions, decisions...

Better off with the Optoma glasses this type is the best on the market, same as the Monster glasses. As far as the $500 difference it's all according to what deal you get from AVS. People are starting to think the HD3300 is better than the HD33. All I can tell you is Optoma told me all the best parts are hand picked for the HD3300.
post #124 of 196
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ron Jones View Post

You could still spend about $200 for a Panasonic DMP-BD310 Blu-ray 3D player that has dual HDMI outputs. You would connect one to your existing Onkyo for the HD audio and connect the other to the projector for the 3D video. Also this player has 2D to 3D conversion that you might want to play around with (some people enjoy it watching for some DVDs and 2D blu-rays, while others only want to see true Blu-ray 3D titles). You could connect the AVR's HDMI output to the projector's 2nd HDMI input and use that for your 2D video sources.

good thing about BD310 is you get free Avatar 3D...bad thing is 2D->3D is real bad (no depth within the image, just the image moves forward or backward w.r.t screen)

If you do want to get 2D->3D, try Samsung BD-D6700...its a lot better and adds good depth in many movies (ofcourse nothing compared to native 3D), but you also get the 2 HDMI thingy with this as well
post #125 of 196
Quote:
Originally Posted by falafala View Post
good thing about BD310 is you get free Avatar 3D...bad thing is 2D->3D is real bad (no depth within the image, just the image moves forward or backward w.r.t screen)

If you do want to get 2D->3D, try Samsung BD-D6700...its a lot better and adds good depth in many movies (ofcourse nothing compared to native 3D), but you also get the 2 HDMI thingy with this as well
i know this may seem like a naive comment, but is the 2d-3d option something that a lot of people around here would actually use a lot? I mean i figure that's sacrilege, almost like adding edge enhancement to video sources...does a "good" 2d-3d converter like the Samsung actually do something worthwhile to the 2d picture that isn't gimmicky?
post #126 of 196
Quote:
Originally Posted by oleus View Post
i know this may seem like a naive comment, but is the 2d-3d option something that a lot of people around here would actually use a lot? I mean i figure that's sacrilege, almost like adding edge enhancement to video sources...does a "good" 2d-3d converter like the Samsung actually do something worthwhile to the 2d picture that isn't gimmicky?
as i said, its not as good as native 3D, but its fairly decent....search AVS for 2D to 3D conversion threads and you will find many folks vouching for it and they even list the movies where its most obvious.
post #127 of 196
I pulled this info on the 8300:

"·Latest 1080p DarkChip3 DLP® technology by
Texas Instruments"

Didn't DC4 come out in about 2007. What would make the latest DC3 so great? Where is TI at with their DLP series?
post #128 of 196
Quote:
Originally Posted by home4sale2 View Post

Bummer, actually not sure if this projector would work for me without lens shift, if I am interpreting the numbers from Optoma's distance calculator correctly. I have a real low ceiling. I can place the projector as far back as 14 feet, ceiling only, hoping to get 120"
(16:9 diag) but willing to settle for 100". Is it true that the top of the projected picture will be at a minimum 7" + 9.4" = 16.4"? With a screen height of 59" + 16.4" I end up with 75.4" and I only have 70" from top to bottom (unless I remove an outlet which is about 8" from the floor). Aarghhh. Am I missing something?
Edit: Looks like if I adjust the height to 54", my throw distance is between 12 and 14' and my screen size is 110". So, I should be ok if I can find a screen that is 110" (so far I have seen 100 and 120").

Lots of 110" screens. Call if you need help.
post #129 of 196
Obviously the DC3 chip is rather old. Manufacturers use it because I think TI sells it for a lot less than the DC4. The market for DC3 and DC4 chips is very small. TI doesn't really have the financial incentive to undertake what would be a large outlay to develop a DC5 that would be a meaningful improvement. The situation was very different when rear projection units were popular with many using a TI chip. Flat panels and their drastic reduction in cost to purchase pretty much spelled the end for further chip development by TI. I think their efforts have been directed towards a 2.35 chip which they can charge mucho bucks for, for 3 chip commercial sector machines and high priced consumer projectors.
post #130 of 196
Quote:
Originally Posted by LowellG View Post

I pulled this info on the 8300:

"·Latest 1080p DarkChip3 DLP® technology by
Texas Instruments"

Didn't DC4 come out in about 2007. What would make the latest DC3 so great? Where is TI at with their DLP series?

It's always encouraging to see someone posting basic facts - however rare it may be!
You are correct in that the technology has stagnated. However the marketplace has regressed further as the HD33 uses the HD2!
Its only a coincidence that basic DLP mirror technology is well suited to 3D as it was not further developed or updated.

I just bought a new car after three days of intense research. Overall I observed that Japanese auto technology has also stagnated. Even worse, some, like the latest Honda's have also regressed.

Korea and China seem to be in the drivers seat but with rapidly rising prices. These products lack a bit of refinement and polish. Its the exceptions where you find the value. Needless to say, i did not buy the "top rated" $24K Hyundai Elantra GLS!

At least projector prices are falling with increased performance. We have it pretty good compared to automobiles.
post #131 of 196
Quote:
Originally Posted by HiFiFun View Post

It's always encouraging to see someone posting basic facts - however rare it may be!
You are correct in that the technology has stagnated. However the marketplace has regressed further as the HD33 uses the HD2!
Its only a coincidence that basic DLP mirror technology is well suited to 3D as it was not further developed or updated.

I just bought a new car after three days of intense research. Overall I observed that Japanese auto technology has also stagnated. Even worse, some, like the latest Honda's have also regressed.

Korea and China seem to be in the drivers seat but with rapidly rising prices. These products lack a bit of refinement and polish. Its the exceptions where you find the value. Needless to say, i did not buy the "top rated" $24K Hyundai Elantra GLS!

At least projector prices are falling with increased performance. We have it pretty good compared to automobiles.

I have not been paying attention to DLP for a while, so I though maybe I missed something.
post #132 of 196
A few random comments on the new Optomas.

The 3300 has a three year machine warranty and a two year warranty on the bulb compared to the one year machine and 90 day bulb warranty on the 33. Seems like a no brainer to pay the small extra street price difference for the 3300. If you need a repair after one year but within three years, you will end up paying way way way more than the street price difference. And a two year lamp warranty, high hour users will love that.

The RF 3D Optoma glasses are in stock now. They have a MSRP of either $99 or $100 per pair. Street prices are lower.

The 33 and 3300 have a fixed mounting offset of +0.16 times the screen height. This means take the vertical height of you screen viewing surface and multiply it by 0.16. You must mount lens center at this height above the screen top. Yes. The machines have electronic keystone correction but if you or your installer employees this, he and you belong in some other forum. The use of electronic keystone adjustments totally screws up your PQ and if you don't notice it, then you really should habitate some other forum.

The 8300 has adjustable vertical and horizontal lens shift but the vertical one is quite limited. The projector lens center can be no closer above the top of the screen than .05 times the screen height and it can be no farther away than 0.3 times the screen height.

If you have a HP screen, these projectors are not for you. The offsets, either fixed or adjustable, will not allow an appropriate mounting position for an HP screen.

Note BTW, the lens shift controls are finger wheels on the bottom of the projector and this could present a location problem if you use a mount with a mounting plate. Considering the minimum of 5% above requirement you will need to be on a ladder to adjust the lens shift on the 8300.
post #133 of 196
Quote:
Originally Posted by mark haflich View Post

If you have a HP screen, these projectors are not for you. The offsets, either fixed or adjustable, will not allow an appropriate mounting position for an HP screen.

I have an older Da-Lite High Power (Model B - 92" diagonal) screen. Is this what you're talking about? If so, I understand that these screens are optimized to reflect the light back in the same direction that the light comes from, so a projector firing as close to eye level as possible is ideal. But right now I'm using a Panasonic AE-700U (older 720p LCD) and have it ceiling mounted quite low (projects close to the top of the screen, but I don't have the exact measurements handy). I currently only watch at night because my room is not light controlled, and in fact will require a lot of creativity to improve that (it's an open loft area with skylights as well). When I stand up I see a shift in the brightness, but at night (or if the room was light controlled), when seated, it's still an enjoyable experience, and it's my understanding and experience that this screen surface resists hotspotting.

Because this is an older 720p LCD, my expectation is that the Optoma HD33/3300 should offer me both better brightness and black levels (as well as, of course, 1080p and 3D), but if you think I'm overlooking a significant issue that I'll experience with the HD33/3300 when paired with my Da-Lite High Power screen, please educate me.
post #134 of 196
Quote:
Originally Posted by mark haflich View Post

A few random comments on the new Optomas.

The 3300 has a three year machine warranty and a one year warranty on the bulb compared to the one year machine and 90 day bulb warranty on the 33. Seems like a no brainer to pay the small extra street price difference for the 3300. If you need a repair after one year but within three years, you will end up paying way way way more than the street price difference.

The RF 3D Optoma glasses are in stock now. They have a MSRP of either $99 or $100 per pair. Street prices are lower.

The 33 and 3300 have a fixed mounting offset of +0.16 times the screen height. This means take the vertical height of you screen viewing surface and multiply it by 0.16. You must mount lens center at this height above the screen top. Yes. The machines have electronic keystone correction but if you or your installer employees this, he and you belong in some other forum. The use of electronic keystone adjustments totally screws up your PQ and if you don't notice it, then you really should habitate some other forum.

The 8300 has adjustable vertical and horizontal lens shift but the vertical one is quite limited. The projector lens center can be no closer above the top of the screen than .05 times the screen height and it can be no farther away than 0.3 times the screen height.

If you have a HP screen, these projectors are not for you. The offsets, either fixed or adjustable, will not allow an appropriate mounting position for an HP screen.

Note BTW, the lens shift controls are finger wheels on the bottom of the projector and this could present a location problem if you use a mount with a mounting plate. Considering the minimum of 5% above requirement you will need to be on a ladder to adjust the lens shift on the 8300.

Nice post, but one correction. The lamp warranty for the 8300 and 3300 is two years, not one year.
post #135 of 196
I make a big assumption. That one buys a HP screen because they want the advertised gain. Mounting it high, one won't get anything close to the rated gain unless you are on a ladder watching the screen. The HP is a white screen. Almost anything white will work as a screen. I use a bed sheet, a painted wall, a retroreflective screen with angular reflective mounting, yada yada yada. You are by no means not the only one. But get up and put your eyes near the height of the projector lens and see the brightness you are missing. Delivering brightness is what the HP is about. Obviously, if one does not mount the projector close to eye viewing level, one won't get the gain the screen is capable of. And yes it still will be much much better than a bed sheet etc. But there are better screen material choices for ceiling type high mounts.
post #136 of 196
Simple solution - find a ceiling mount with a retractable extension or make one. Bring it down just above sitting head height and put it up afterwards. There's a solution to every problem and sometimes they're easy. The bottom line -- how badly do you want to use an HP screen? For 3D it is a godsend.
post #137 of 196
I probably should have mentioned that I originally bought my HP (from AVS I think) when I got my 2nd projector, the NEC LT85 (800x600 version of the popular-at-the-time LT150). That was in when I lived at the house I owned two houses ago. I had the projector mounted (essentially a back wall mount) just about 1.5-2 feet above my head (when seated). I then upgraded to the Panasonic AE-700U, and had the projector in the same position. Then I moved, and moved again, and in my current house the only room that would work as a dedicated movie room is my upstairs loft, which has terrible acoustics, wall/ceiling angles, open areas, skylights, and is painted white. At my last house I bought six home theater chairs which I brought with me to this house, and it would have been akward to floor-mount the projector in front of my front seats, plus the ceiling is so high here (I forget, but probably about 10') that it made obvious sense to ceiling mount the projector. Despite the high ceiling, I did buy a mount with a long extension, so it's probably only about 8' up. A case could have been made that the projector position and my existing screen didn't mate well, but the screen fit well for the spot, so I played it cheap and didn't think to change that. Now I'm thinking about going 3D (and 1080p), but I'd like to keep my existing screen for now, and possibly upgrade that later. So, a couple of questions:

1) Even with the sub-opimal positioning, aren't I getting > 1.0 screen gain?

2) Assuming I were to paint my walls/ceiling dark and control most light (or watch only at night), if I want to watch 3D and have it be bright enough to overcome whatever loss I'd get when using the shutter glasses, what's the ideal screen to pair with a ceiling-mounted HD33/3300?
post #138 of 196
srauly -- Your older model HP screen has an advertised gain of 2.8 for a PJ mounted at about eye level. Note, I bought my HP screen in 2004.

IIRC, AVS member Tryg made some measurements for a ceiling mounted PJ (unit at about the top of the screen) and came up with a gain in the neighborhood of 1.6 (about half of its rated gain).

Therefore, the answer to Q#1 is "Yes".

Q#2 -- You need an angular-reflective screen such as a Black Diamond or Vutec Silverstar (gain = ~6.0) screen. The problem with those is the possibility of hot-spotting when using it for 2D movies (which will be a lot brighter). Also, those screens are a lot more expensive than the screen you have. See the AVS Screen Forum for further info on screens.

The bottom line is to try it with the screen you have. If it is not bright enough, then consider getting a new screen. Painting the walls/ceiling with a dark, non-gloss, non-reflective, paint will definitely help (and should be done anyway).
post #139 of 196
Quote:
Originally Posted by CT_Wiebe View Post

srauly -- Your older model HP screen has an advertised gain of 2.8 for a PJ mounted at about eye level. Note, I bought my HP screen in 2004.

IIRC, AVS member Tryg made some measurements for a ceiling mounted PJ (unit at about the top of the screen) and came up with a gain in the neighborhood of 1.6 (about half of its rated gain).

Therefore, the answer to Q#1 is "Yes".

Q#2 -- You need an angular-reflective screen such as a Black Diamond or Vutec Silverstar (gain = ~6.0) screen. The problem with those is the possibility of hot-spotting when using it for 2D movies (which will be a lot brighter). Also, those screens are a lot more expensive than the screen you have. See the AVS Screen Forum for further info on screens.

The bottom line is to try it with the screen you have. If it is not bright enough, then consider getting a new screen. Painting the walls/ceiling with a dark, non-gloss, non-reflective, paint will definitely help (and should be done anyway).

I agree with CT. Try what you have. It will work fine for 2D (as long as you can darken the room and paint the walls dark) and may be okay for 3D, depends on your screen size. If you are not happy with 3D then look into changing your mount and/or screen.
post #140 of 196
Anything will always work. Its all good. Nothing is much better. Just be sure that you aim the projector at the screen. Why does Da-lite recommended cheaper fabrics than HP when recommended mounting positions for the projector can't be met? WTF do they know.
post #141 of 196
Hi everyone!

Been on AVS for awhile, but new to this 3D stuff. But time to go BIG (larger than my 50" plasma) for movies and sports. And this HD33 got me interested in going 3D at the same time......

My finished attic is only so big, so I am pushing it with the 106" screen I just ordered from Amazon:
FAVI 16:9/106-Inch Portable Tripod Projector Screen (TRI-HD-106) for only $115 shipped. Anyone familiar with this?

Also, what is the consensus on glasses for this projector? I need a family of 5 pack RF or DLP Link?

I plan to use a WDTV Hub to watch .MKV SBS 3D movies...... any possible problems with that? Will I need a new 1.4 HDMI cable?

Any advice would be appreciated. THANKS!
post #142 of 196
Quote:
Originally Posted by ClemsonKev View Post
Hi everyone!

Been on AVS for awhile, but new to this 3D stuff. But time to go BIG (larger than my 50" plasma) for movies and sports. And this HD33 got me interested in going 3D at the same time......

My finished attic is only so big, so I am pushing it with the 106" screen I just ordered from Amazon:
FAVI 16:9/106-Inch Portable Tripod Projector Screen (TRI-HD-106) for only $115 shipped. Anyone familiar with this?

Also, what is the consensus on glasses for this projector? I need a family of 5 pack RF or DLP Link?

I plan to use a WDTV Hub to watch .MKV SBS 3D movies...... any possible problems with that? Will I need a new 1.4 HDMI cable?

Any advice would be appreciated. THANKS!
I got the same model in 120" as it was the cheapest. Its very good for its price but if i had a dedicated HT room, I would go for a Black Diamond or some of those expensive screens as FAVI is somewhat unwatchable in day light as it reflects ambient light...I am tending towards DLP link as its cheaper if you need several pairs.
post #143 of 196
Has anyone seen a review/impressions of the HD8300 yet? I'm trying to make up my mind on whether it's worth the price difference over the 3300.
post #144 of 196
Anyone know about the Optoma HD83? It says 1080p-3D, 1500 lumen, 2000:1(on/off), 30K(Dynamic)...is this the consumer grade version of the HD8300? What's up with the cruddy on/off with DC3? Its specs are identical to the HD8300? Cost on these?

It seems weird that the HD8600 is still on Optomas page and is 50K:1 Dynamic, why would they go backward in contrast with new pjs?
post #145 of 196
Quote:
Originally Posted by pottscb View Post

Anyone know about the Optoma HD83? It says 1080p-3D, 1500 lumen, 2000:1(on/off), 30K(Dynamic)...is this the consumer grade version of the HD8300? What's up with the cruddy on/off with DC3? Its specs are identical to the HD8300? Cost on these?

It seems weird that the HD8600 is still on Optomas page and is 50K:1 Dynamic, why would they go backward in contrast with new pjs?

Marketing comes to mind.
The on/off depends on the actual design of the projector, not just the chip.
The 8600 is known to be great in overall IQ.

Case is near identical on them all, I wonder if the light engines are the same? The 8600 does have the upgradeable lens options, not sure about the other two.
Another look at the dimensions, the HD8600 is a little smaller.
post #146 of 196
Quote:
Originally Posted by falafala View Post
I got the same model in 120" as it was the cheapest. Its very good for its price but if i had a dedicated HT room, I would go for a Black Diamond or some of those expensive screens as FAVI is somewhat unwatchable in day light as it reflects ambient light...I am tending towards DLP link as its cheaper if you need several pairs.
Guys, keep in mind the Da-Lite High Contrast, High Power screen. While at the show I picked up a sample book from Da-Lite. I also got samples of SI's Black Diamond 0.08 and 1.4 gain screens. When I get time I plan on sticking the various samples to a 2.8 gain HP screen and take some screen shots. Unlike me, my brother is into photography, so I will probably do this at his house. He also has a 2.8 gain screen, adjustable height projector mount and a VW60 projector.
post #147 of 196
Looking forward to hearing your impressions on the screen samples. Wasn't there a new high gain DA-Lite material (not the 2.4, but another completely separate one)?
post #148 of 196
For those interested Art put up his HD8300 review today. Has some good things to say, says DI is good. Says black level isn't great yet if you look at his pictures it looks better than most specially the contrast details of the black and white space shot. So much for pictures I guess.

http://www.projectorreviews.com/optoma/hd8300/image.php
post #149 of 196
From Art's review:
Quote:


Assuming no horizontal shift, the vertical lens shift of the Optoma HD8300 will allow you to have the projector positioned (for our usual 100" diagonal 16:9 screen) with the lens (measured from the center) as high as 1.23 feet above the top of the screen surface, as low as 1.23 feet below the bottom of the screen surface, or anywhere in between. That's a healthy amount of lens shift. No match for the most flexible, but it should easily handle most rooms. Those with really tall ceilings might like more vertical lens shift so the projector doesn't have to hang down as far from the ceiling (on the usual pole).

This seems to be in direct contradiction to HD8300's owner's manual where the vertical shift does not allow the lens to be anywhere between the top and bottom of the screen. I wonder which info is right? If Art's right, then HD8300 will be a good candidate for those with HP screen. Can anybody verify this?
post #150 of 196
I had the impression from reading the review that Art is not so impressed with this unit as with say HD86
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:
  Return Home
AVS › AVS Forum › Display Devices › Digital Hi-End Projectors - $3,000+ USD MSRP › Optoma HD8300/HD33/HD3300 1080p 3D Projectors announced