'Preview sony vpl-hw30es' - Page 3

Yes, you are right.
We never made a complete Review of a HW20. However, I made some measurements with HW20 here and then and they usually end up in the same contrast region like the one we got from the HW30 now.

BTW: A contrast difference of 12% is BELOW normal tolerances / serial deviation for one and the same model.


Regards,
Ekki

Thanks Kraine

It's a cheap pull down screen, so it it has shortened my throw distance and had to be mounted closer to my lighting.
Fixed screen will be able to be mounted deeper into the proscenium, so less direct light will hit the screen for sports.
Guessing the HCCV material will put my current screen material to shame either way.

Was the end result of the review the HW30 is a HW20 with 3D. If you just wanted 2D would it make better sense to get a HW20 instead?

Exactly what does "motionflow" do?

it's Sony's version of frame interpolation which was highly regarded in the VW90. It's great news to see it also works in 3D mode. I can't wait to check it out.

Motion Flow in the vw90 offered a low setting (no soap opera effect) and high (max smoothness for sports). I think Sony finally tweaked the low setting to be useable for much more content. If the hw30 carries over similar performance, it's worth the upgrade over the hw20.

Motion Flow only works with full frame 3D and it removes all flicker. But it does not work with other 3D formats like side-by-side, which does suffer from flicker anyway and is a sub standard 3D presentation.

What type of 3D does Directv do? About the only reason I would use 3D would be using Directv.

thanks for the info. I am looking forward to trying it out in 3D on the Sony. I am highly sensitive to flicker and can notice it on my JVC RS50 vs. the Acer at the higher refresh. it's not a deal breaker, but always conscious of the flicker on the JVC.

For ESPN 3D, DTV does 720p side by side, a non standard format. The Sony will handle it but I don't believe with motion flow. It probably doesn't have the processing power to interpolated new images between each of the side by side frames. In essence it would have to do twice as much interpolation than for a non 3D image.

Kraine- thanks for posting. It's not bad out of the box at all... my JVC RS50 greyscale with 2 different lamps was off by a mile in comparison.

hard to believe the machine that costs 1/2 the price of the RS50/X7 is going to be easier to calibrate with the built in controls. JVC should be taking lessons from Sony this year.

I mentioned this in the other Sony thread as well, but I think Sony is remarkable in unit-to-unit consistancy. It must be their QC or just how matured their tech is. I have a 4 year old SXRD TV that still shows fantastic skintones and color, and only required a few tweaks.

And this is a lesson for those manufacturers (you know who they are) that intentionally mistweak or oversaturate the colors of the base model, and then leave out any ability to fix them, leaving you to watch sunburned faces.

So, post calibration, how many lumens are we talking here (high/low lamp setting)?

Very tight convergence. Nice!

Calibrated lumens are around 900 in High mode. Eco mode 30% less.
And the RCP is a bit buggy and not perfectly working.


Regards,
Ekki

Here is my gamut measurement of the 'Standard' color space (Calman 4.3, I1Pro), the good thing: I did not even touch the RCP controls!
And I can confirm the aprox. 900 lumens after calibration to D65.

For grey scale I used custom3/'gamma off' or the like and had to correct it only a few dots (you could do even better than I did, as kraine pointed out):

As you can see, in my case only Blue is a bit high, with the rest of the colors even luminance is almost perfect. So, there may be some unit to unit variance here.

I'm considering getting a new screen. If i get the hw30es calibrated, i guess i should not have that done until after getting the screen, correct?

BTW, has anyone tested the polarization of the RGB as the mark mentioned earlier it's possible the 3 panels could be polarized on a different axis, which would affect my decision on getting a screen that retains the projector polarization. It should be easy to test that i guess. My projector is due tomorrow anyhow so if no-one answers i'll test it myself and post the results.

How are these straight out of the box with only user friendly adjustments being made?