Passive FPR 3D ghosting problems in Interlace and Checkerboard - Page 10

It's supposed to be the point where the left lens cannot block all the information from the right lens and vice versa.

The problem is there are some users using interleave and checkerboard where there is a calibration problem and even using small amounts of separation causes color ghosting. This can be fixed because the limit I was talking about has never been exceeded based. Using the same values for comparison to Side by Side mode which is already corrected for high amounts of ghosting also shows this limit is much higher.

You've got a couple options, use VGA to check if interleave has less ghosting.
Use Side by Side mode on HDMI which is supposed to have this ghosting minimized.

If these don't help, than my assumption was correct.

If you are talking about Avatar, then it's because you have to use the Avatar separation slider and not 3d vision. If I remember correctly, they base it on size of tv and distance because the developers want to have complete control of the 3d camera at all times to adjust it on the fly.

Ok, this is my up to date firmware changes that I noted for 4.00.18

Interleave- 3% greyscale ghosting
Side by Side and Frame-packing- No ghosting
Checkerboard- This is where they fixed all of the greyscale ghosting completely(good), now there is only color ghosting which I can use 25 Color to remove most of the ghosting. Not good for color reproduction, but better than running it at black and white.

Then there is Subverse setting and he was using a version higher than me and for some reason he posted that IZ3D checkerboard had no ghosting which is surprising indeed.

3dnewb,

What tv do you have now? The only way Nvidia users get 3d vision done the right way for passive users is to push for Interleaved support. Once you go to native resolution gaming, it's hard to match it for large screen tvs. The best shutter's can do for large screen is frame sequential for native pixel output but then large screen tvs don't have any inputs for 120 Hz. I was trying to see when HDMI would plan for new chips but no recent convention has mentioned any support for 60 Hz for Shutter glasses. Without an announcement, I don't see much progress that could be paved by shutter glasses gaming at native res at 60 Hz for tvs. It seems like gaming still needs some headway for more attention.

If I was not so much for quality then Side by Side would suffice for gaming but using the full pixels is necessary to match smaller 3d monitors.

So I just watched Thor, it's a post 3d converted movie but man watching this with 3d and the snow and rain flying all around is great. Not to mention I'm using cerwin vega 15" woofer loudspeakers for my fronts and a 200 watt cerwin vega for my center in a 7.1 configuration. This movies is good to show off the complete home theater experience.

butmuncher,

I hope LG sees what is wrong with checkerboard. Which one is better for checkerboard from the plasma to the lcd? I'm going to be checking each time a firmware comes out to see if they made any progress.

Go press the button on the monitor to reset the monitor default settings. See if that works.

3dNewb,

I've never used the depth slider on the tv ever. Sometimes I make a negative adjustment on the viewpoint and I only use that for 2d/3d conversions.

Butmuncher,

About the ATI checkerboard, it works exactly the same, except it is does not have any trial attached to it so it works forever if you have an ati card. Its part of the AMD/IZ3D cross promotion they have for new 3d users.

3dNewb,

About Avatar game, I just remembered that you kept mentioning that the depth was not good enough. Actually for the screen size, you should input 22" instead of 55" because it will increase the 3d popout and depth dramatically. What ends up happening is that the high depth settings on the small screen becomes magnified based on screen size just like going to watch an imax 3d is better than watching 3d on a 22" 3d monitor. Using 55" screen size will minimize the depth impact and lower your 3d settings.

Zaphodalive,

Have you tried Over/Under for that movie and see if removes the blockiness. If you like popping out effects, try Final Destination 3D. That has some effects that literally get thrown at you. HDMI has new chips that support the higher bandwidth but nobody is going to give something away for free without marketing the performance of the tech itself. I have not heard any announcement from Samsung, Panasonic.

Butmuncher,

Take into account this has a lot more to do with sensation and perception of the brain.

From my past experiences using passive glasses that are linear, I can maybe explain part of the reason why there is less depth. Remember that LG, Vizio, Toshiba uses Real D which is circular polarization just for reference. With the linear polarization, there were times when having a higher color disparity, which is when one eye sees some color ghosting from the other eyes actually increased the 3d effect for smaller depth values because the retinal disparity helped create two independent images not based on viewpoint only but also based on color.

Now later IZ3D updated their glasses model to remove the retinal disparity in their glasses by moving to a elliptical polarization and this helped completely remove any color ghosting. The side effects from this were that low depth images did not have the same 3d effect as a high depth image and therefore you would need to increase the 3d to get the same depth.

Now moving back to why LG passive possibly has less depth compared to active glasses. The only reason I see this is because when you have more color ghosting, then at lower depth values, you will get more 3d effect. On the other hand, with LG passive, there is no color ghosting at all, so because there is no color retinal disparity, then on low depth 3d the effect is diminished so thereby you would have to increase the depth higher to compensate or have a larger screen whichever. Other possible ways to increase the effect are to sit further from the tv.

Also I want to add, that I am getting better popout from this tv than from my other tech because I can increase the values to really high numbers. I think with depth though I would need to have both active and passive side by side because from my eyes, it is easier to see high amounts of popout than it is to see depth. This is one of those areas where each person sees a little different from another because of the way the brain works. You have the advantage because you have each side by side to compare.