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ACER K330 LED 1280x800 - Page 17

post #481 of 933
Well, I've been following this thread and a bunch of other ones for LED projectors for a week or so, and ordered the Acer K330 from Tiger Direct through Amazon, before they went out of stock again...which they did this morning.

My second choice would have been the LG, either the HX350T or the HW300G. The HW300G doesn't seem to be available from a US vender yet, and I had some reservations about the 350T having a slightly lower resolution. So..the Acer it is.

My uses for this will normally be as a portable device for presentations in a political campaign over the next year. I'm sure I'll play around with it at home for movies as well though. My normal device for movies at home is a 61" Samsung DLP LED rear projection set which I have had since 2007 and been totally happy with.
post #482 of 933
The PJ runs an OS, like many devices of its ilk. A driver is preloaded in the variant of Linux running on the K330 (I wasn't sure about this since I was postulating based on experience but tataniko discovered this), there is no software (short of possible Ralink RT3070 firmware) on the dongle itself. Any functionality should be offloaded to the PJ whatever that may be.

150Mbps should be sufficient for HD video (18.75 MB/s). USB 2.0 theoretical maximum is 57.2 MB/s with a realistic throughput of perhaps less than half that (20-25MByte/sec). Someone correct me if I am wrong. Are you playing a 1080p BD rip or something? I play mkv files via flash drives all the time on my PC and it isn't a problem. Uncompressed BD rips run at around 5-6MByte/sec. Your inability to play HD video may point to the efficacy (or lack thereof) of the interface on the PJ or the on-board software itself.

Quote:
Originally Posted by HenryDudley View Post

I don't know if the dongle is going to be usable for video. I can't even play back HD video over USB, so I don't think the wifi will fare much better.

As for buying a generic USB stick with the same controller, I don't know, maybe it will recognize it, maybe not.

How are you going to get the software though to actually do anything with it though? I think that ships with the Acer dongle, unless it's also contained on a network share on the projector (seems less likely).
post #483 of 933
Quote:
Originally Posted by strindl View Post

My uses for this will normally be as a portable device for presentations in a political campaign over the next year. I'm sure I'll play around with it at home for movies as well though. My normal device for movies at home is a 61" Samsung DLP LED rear projection set which I have had since 2007 and been totally happy with.

It's a nice projector, but it's not super bright. It sounds like maybe you would be better off with something like the Casio laser/LED projectors for work and an Acer at home.

Quote:
Originally Posted by monakh View Post

The PJ runs an OS, like many devices of its ilk. A driver is preloaded in the variant of Linux running on the K330 (I wasn't sure about this since I was postulating based on experience but tataniko discovered this), there is no software (short of possible Ralink RT3070 firmware) on the dongle itself. Any functionality should be offloaded to the PJ whatever that may be.

I think maybe I should have been clearer about what I meant. The projector side is one thing, it has the drivers and software built in. However you also need to be running software on your computer that creates a virtual display device and exports it over the wireless network. As far as I know there is no standard for this, so you'd need special software.

Quote:
Originally Posted by monakh View Post

150Mbps should be sufficient for HD video (18.75 MB/s). USB 2.0 theoretical maximum is 57.2 MB/s with a realistic throughput of perhaps less than half that (20-25MByte/sec). Someone correct me if I am wrong. Are you playing a 1080p BD rip or something? I play mkv files via flash drives all the time on my PC and it isn't a problem. Uncompressed BD rips run at around 5-6MByte/sec. Your inability to play HD video may point to the efficacy (or lack thereof) of the interface on the PJ or the on-board software itself.

You aren't transferring a video file, you're transmitting a live video stream of the desktop. Your computer has to compress this in real time, transfer it over USB and the projector then decompress it (presumably it's not H.264-level compression, so it takes more bandwidth).

I'm not sure if the lack of bandwidth is the problem though, or if it's the software or capability of my computer. It works better on my powerful desktop computer. The picture is reasonably smooth then, although still has some amount of horisontal tearing. The Acer software also disables the aero glass effect in Windows and reverts it to classic, which is kind of lame.The display over USB thing is obviously designed for showing Powerpoint presentations, anything else really needs HDMI.
post #484 of 933
Quote:
Originally Posted by HenryDudley View Post

It's a nice projector, but it's not super bright. It sounds like maybe you would be better off with something like the Casio laser/LED projectors for work and an Acer at home.

I should have it by Thursday. Once I have had a chance to try it out a bit, I'll post my take on how it works as both a home theater projector as well as a portable one for presentations. I like it's light weight and small size for portable use...it's quite a bit lighter and smaller than the casio LED laser projectors. I'll be doing plenty of carrying this thing around over the next year, so that was a large factor in my choice.

I picked up an Epson portable screen to pair with it that should work well. It can be floor mounted on it's tripod or mounted on a wall, and is adjustable for 84" 16:9 or 65" 4:3 use.

The real debut for this setup will be January 24th when it will provide the video for a "watch party" for the State of The Union address at a campaign office. I plan on mounting the projector on a tripod I have so that I can adjust the distance to the screen to produce an 84" image that will fill the screen. I'll be sure to take pictures of that and post them in this thread so you can see how the K330 handles it.
post #485 of 933
Finally WIFI worked on Acer K330, THanks to my friend Pradeep for testing it on his PJ.

I have bought Dlink DWA-125 150 MBPS N router for my desktop to avoid running wires, and also wanted to check if it works with PJ, and it worked, below are some testing images.




Software is no big deal. We tested it on upgraded PJ with latest SW, and with Win 7 Laptop by following instructions in manual (PDF).

Tried with MobiShare, MirrorOP sender. They work brilliant with Android, but there is lag with mobile, and not all Andoird resolutions share videos. Videos / Games from Mobile are any way of no use, they stutter a lot.


Quote:
Originally Posted by HenryDudley View Post

I'm not sure if the lack of bandwidth is the problem though, or if it's the software or capability of my computer. It works better on my powerful desktop computer. The picture is reasonably smooth then, although still has some amount of horisontal tearing. The Acer software also disables the aero glass effect in Windows and reverts it to classic, which is kind of lame.The display over USB thing is obviously designed for showing Powerpoint presentations, anything else really needs HDMI.

Henry, you are right.

By this test, PJ works with other N USB dongles too, but not necessarily with all.

A quick question on behalf of my friend.
His PJ has a black ring inside/around lens (its highlighted in below image). Is this usual?

I can check with mine tomorrow, Yes finally my PJ is in my City, I will collect it tomorrow.

Thanks & Merry Christmas,
Naveen.KK
LL
LL
LL
post #486 of 933
Wow--great pics, Naveen. What's the make of the dongle that you are using or is it the Acer one?

Henry, even if you are transmitting the wireless desktop, bandwidth shouldn't be an issue. The RDP protocol, often used for such transfers, is incredibly mature and bandwidth efficient. I have no clue what is being used with the Acer though. At this stage, I am willing to bet the issue is software and not the hardware or the lack of bandwidth.
post #487 of 933
After reading the manual it seems like the Windows software needed actually is located on the projector so that you can just use any dongle it recognizes, connect to a server on the projector and download the installation files from it.

Which Wifi dongle do you have, naveenez2c? Do you have Windows? If so, can you connect it to that and try to project video and see what happens (720p video if you have any).

As for the black ring, mine also has it. I think it is the lens housing that the focus ring is fitted to.


Quote:
Originally Posted by monakh View Post

Henry, even if you are transmitting the wireless desktop, bandwidth shouldn't be an issue. The RDP protocol, often used for such transfers, is incredibly mature and bandwidth efficient. I have no clue what is being used with the Acer though. At this stage, I am willing to bet the issue is software and not the hardware or the lack of bandwidth.

As a heavy TS/RDP user, I have to disagree. It is completely useless for multimedia and is only designed and suited for transmitting mostly static images and beeps (although in R2/7 it can with the correct setup play video and sound seamlessly by using an extension that transfers the raw media files over the network and has the client decode it locally and seamlessly integrate it into the remote desktop window, instead of the host decoding it and transferring the image. Not that it's relevant here).

Of course there's no actual way the projector is using RDP, but the same applies to all similar solutions. Great for PowerPoint, not much use for my dream of wireless home theatering. Still though, if it works with a cheap dongle I'll probably get one for the novelty of it.
post #488 of 933
@Henry, Thanks for your Confirmation about Blank Ring Henry, my Friend will feel better now.

@ Henry/Monakh
I have already mentioned the Model I have used, it is Dlink DWA 125 .

This Model is more compact , and may not require extension cord Dlink DWA-131 (Update: But it wont work with PJ)

I am considering to buy another Dongle with 300 MBPS Dlink DWA-135, but as per what I read it wont add any value with this linux based PJ. Correct me if I am wrong.

We have also tried using a Win7 Laptop, it worked fine, we tried 720 P, I would say not bad. We moved laptop away from the PJ, and found no big difference. But I don't consider it flawless as I haven't seen a complete movie on wireless, it was just a small bit.

I can confirm it when I unbox my PJ tomorrow.

Regards,
Naveen.KK
post #489 of 933
What screen are you all using for Acer K330 PJ, can Satin White Painted wall do any better than a White Wall?
post #490 of 933
Until I can come up with a cheap better alternative for a screen, I am using black out cloth that you use for curtains.
post #491 of 933
I bought some when I first bought my little toy PT100, but ended up painting some pink foam board from Home Depot. Yeah, I'm lazy lol....

Does the BOC have better properties vs painted wall/board when it comes to gain? I painted my board with some latex primer I had around which has a matte sheen to it but I'm wondering how much better a grey/silver color would be (or black)....
post #492 of 933
I described my issue in a separate thread yesterday but didn't get any input so I figured I'd do a quick try here in the big k330 thread. I'd appreciate any help, especially since it was in these forums I heard about the tip to use a switch to get a toslink output out of a HDMI-only source (I can't remember which 500-lumen LED pj clone thread that was though).

I've got this Monoprice switch (product 5557) that I've already confirmed outputs properly to a TV from an Xbox 360 HDMI and Windows 7 6850 HDMI. The Acer doesn't see any video at all from either (0 for 2), and I've already forced the Acer to keep looking at the HDMI source ("No Signal"). I've also unplugged/replugged power to the switch to reset it and hopefully recognize the k330 plugged into it (which is what I had to do to get the TV to show after switching cables).

So, Acer k330 and probably other 500-lumen LED pj clones, Monoprice 5557 switch, not getting any HDMI video, any thoughts, solutions, alternatives? I'd like to switch between inputs while still being able to run dolby 5.1 to my receiver (which doesn't have enough HDMI inputs, and I'd also prefer not to use it as a video switch).
post #493 of 933
Quote:
Originally Posted by naveenez2c View Post

What screen are you all using for Acer K330 PJ, can Satin White Painted wall do any better than a White Wall?

I'm considering putting in for a $120 portable screen off Amazon. At about that price it's the perfect size for the room I'll be using it most often in (80-90" diagonal with 7-8 feet viewing distance, which is probably too close but I'm not too discerning), and still gives me the flexibility that I really look for in my gear.

There's also that big thread/guide in these forums: "Beginner's Guide To Simple DIY Painted Screens".

I tried BOC for the k330 and I was okay with the quality, so I was mainly looking for construction cost in dollars+time, plus time to set up/tear down and portability/compact storage.

I figured BOC would be pretty flexible, but I can't think of a way to have it roll up well for transport/storage and still be nice and flat for viewing, plus I'd have to hang it from something or possibly build something like a collapsible wood frame like I saw in one article, and for the trouble of setup/teardown, I thought $120 for a 80-90" widescreen diagonal might be an okay value.

If I had the wall space and didn't need portability, I'd probably build a frame and use either canvas, BOC, or plywood and then decide if it needs paint or if it's fine as is (you can paint canvas and BOC too). I almost certainly would not paint a wall directly, partly b/c a frame is at least somewhat movable, and you'd have to scrape/sand paint off a wall if you need to adjust it, while you can just toss the frame's canvas, BOC, or plywood and start over if you like.
post #494 of 933
Got the Acer for Christmas from my girl. Screen should be here tomorrow. Still have to go get 25' hdmi cable. I'm going to ceiling mount after I run electrical. I had a Sanyo Z1 bulb went. I loved it but you could clearly see pixels at 13' feet and it was loud very loud. This acer is almost silent in comparison. Can't really speak on picture quility till I receive screen. No clear walls.
post #495 of 933
I have not tried painted wall or material just yet, maybe try what you tried buy use a white based foam board.
I read on some of the DIY screen threads that some people have even used spandex ? can anyone confirm that ? and how well did it work ?
post #496 of 933
I no techno , electro geek, but, the toslink SPDIF is optical, it's run by light signals, and HDMI is run by electric digital signals... unless that switch your talking about converts the SPDIF/toslink into a HDMI signal, other wise, it will not work.
From Source, to any kind of switches, cables to TV or projector you have to get something that is called a " Handshake " from all the cables, and equipment that is involved, other wise, it will be a no signal and a no go.
Is this for your sound ? does your source component have a HDMI port on it ?
post #497 of 933
It might be the cable your using.
I remember one time I spent a lot of time one day and worried I might have fried my receiver or PlayStation 3, only to find out ? the cable was bad, yes, at first it worked, but the one flaw of HDMI cables are ? drum roll please, the more you work with them ? the more chance you can damage the delicate pins on the cable.
I remember a thread here on AVS a few months ago someone said to get a HDMI cable protector, that was some good advice.
Please check your HDMI cables first before of trying to diagnose any other components.
post #498 of 933
It's a love hate thing with HDMI cables, love the video and audio quality that comes with HDMI, but, once again, they can get damaged easy.
If high definition sound is not the issue, I would rather use DVI cables.
Composite, Component, even S-video cables, and DVI can take the constant plugging in and unplugging at a certain point, not so with HDMI cables.
Best thing to do with HDMI is once you get everything set up, leave the HDMI cables alone unless you get HDMI cable protectors.
The HDMI cable protectors are short HDMI cables where you can plug them into your source component, TV, or projectors, and if you want to unplug it, you unplug it at the other end of the protector, therefore protection the HDMI ports on your TVs, projectors, and source components.
post #499 of 933
Unlike the LG HX300 I have, it does not have any kind of zoom, I can say that the Acer K330 and the Viewsonic PLED clones at least have optical zoom in which you have more flexibility in placement for the projector.
post #500 of 933
post #501 of 933
post #502 of 933
Some people have even used laminates for screens.
Maybe one day I'll go check out Loews or Home Depot and see what kind of other material
can be used for a cheap screen.
post #503 of 933
Quote:
Originally Posted by DLPProjectorfan View Post

Unlike the LG HX300 I have, it does not have any kind of zoom, I can say that the Acer K330 and the Viewsonic PLED clones at least have optical zoom in which you have more flexibility in placement for the projector.

The K330 and the other clones do not have any zoom. The throw distance is fixed. They are also 16:10 projectors, meaning 16:9 content will be letterboxed and have a visible gray ("black") border at the top and bottom. This is something to keep in mind if getting a 16:9 screen. You want one that has a black frame thick big to drown this out (especially at the top and bottom, but also somewhat on the sides.)
post #504 of 933
Does optical zoom count ?
I checked both websites for those 2 projectors and looked at the users guide and it says they both have something , well, sort of optical zoom.
Viewsonic calls it : Magnify.
As for me ? I am happy just to get a nice picture in the room I am able to use the projector.
Light bleeding and black bars are of a far and distant concern at this time.
I have more problems of family turning on lights while watching the movie than those other problems.
post #505 of 933
If you go to viewsonic's website and look at the users guide on page 20 on line 16 is says optical zoom, unless that's a misprint ?
On line 16 on page 20 it says , Magnifies or reduces the projected picture size .
On page 22 of Viewsonic's website on page 22 where it says screen, it says " digital zoom ".
Is that some sort of zoom or is that a misprint ?
Can it be called in the realm of any kind of zoom ?
If so can or would it help those who have room limitations ?
post #506 of 933
Sorry, I keep saying optical zoom when I mean digital zoom.
post #507 of 933
Hank ? for those who really don't care about true HD sound, wouldn't a DVI cable be much better and more robust than a HDMI ?
As for me ? unless I really cared about TRUE HD audio, I rather go with the DVI route than use damage prone HDMI cable.. what about you ?
The problem is ? these clones do not have DVI ports, but, still you can get a adapter from HDMI to DVI, however ? you won't be able to use the TRUE HD audio.
Unless ? you go the multi inputs/output ? if your audio receiver has it.
post #508 of 933
All I can say is, people ? please be careful with the HDMI cables and HDMI ports.
I have a PS3 and I dread plugging and unplugging it every time I have to change something or move it around.
Those who have it on the back of those old HDTV CRTS ? be careful with limited space, I damaged a HDMI cable just by pushing it back, that's why they make the 90 % angle HDMI cables.
Please be careful with the HDMI ports on these clones, they can get damaged very easy even just by plugging in and unplugging, those pins can only take so much.
Find something or a adaptor to limit the amount of times you have to plug a HDMI into your projector.
The same goes with the electrical plug.
I have a old Infocus X2 projector and dreaded plugging it in, because when I plugged the electrical plug in I would hear some cracking noises around the electrical port on the projector, and, yes, it's still working, but, that's not the sound you want to hear on any kind of electrical component.
Unfortunately for me, I can't place my projector in a permanent place, I have to set it up, then, take it back down after use.
Find ways to limit stress on the electrical equipment, and ports on your projectors, or electrical equipment.
post #509 of 933
I would like to thank naveenez2c for his findings.

A couple of pages ago, it was mentioned that the k330's wireless driver is for Ralink RT2870/RT3070. D-link 135 uses RT3070, so my guess is any usb dongle with that chipset will be usable with the pj. On the other hand, the shorter D-Link DWA-131 uses Realtek 8192 and doesn't work.

Now to find a good N dongle with RT3070 that doesn't cost a fortune (see acer's own dongle). I was wondering if i would be able to stream ~12Mbps video through the wireless module but after some searching, i don't think it will be feasible with 150 draft N.

Naveenez2c, if you do more wifi tests, i would be obliged if you shared the results with us.

I am currently holding off buying the pj, till i find if wireless connectivity is feasible and reliable for atleast 12Mbps video, so as to plan the cable routing or not.

Oh, and by the way, thanks to all the people who contributed to this thread. Really helpful.
post #510 of 933
Naveen: You mentioned "Dlink DWA-125 150 MBPS N router" and my bad for not looking it up and knowing that it was a dongle. I love the fact that I was right though about the RT3070--that was complete conjecture on my part based on a lot of googling

Henry: Yes, RDP sucked for video until R2/7 but my point was that it is doable. To be fair, I am not quite sure how it is all put together (and I am in IT) so you may know more at this point than I do.

Ritzakis: I have only linked to a cheap RT3070-based dongle at Amazon twice, I know it isn't enough but please go back a page and you will find the post.
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