ACER K330 LED 1280x800 - Page 23

On the photo 39 is looks like you could buy some wire harnesses to make those plug ins longer and build a separate box or metal case just for the lens, mirrors, and LEDS, and build a box just for the power supply and that would help in keeping the heat away from the lens.

With the Blue LED not having a heat tube for it, I was wondering if you could adapt some kind of manifold Y tube to use the larger heat sink for 2 of the LEDS ?

In photo 370, the heat sink for one of the LEDS is right next to the power supply transistors, not good, and the heat sink is obstructed, that heat sinks needs a clear flow of air going around it and for that hot air to vent out.

Was wondering ? what if ? take a small drill, a dremel, soldering iron, snipping shears and find some way to adapt a small computer case and parts from the projector case, or better yet ? find a old bulb based projector that someone is trowing out and selling cheap and take the innard parts from this projector and build something better with a better quality lens ?

Noticed the DLP chip heat sink is right next to the power supply transistors ? a no no, not good.
There should be a unobstructed flow of cool air going around that heat sink with it's own cooling fan if I was the designer.

Check out tataniko's photos of the break down of this projector.
Many design flaws.
Electronics need a good flow of cool air.
They should have built a heating tube for the blue LED and some how either made a Y heating tube manifold to hook into the larger heat sink ? or does the Green need that extra large heat sink ?
The DLP chip heat sink right next to the power supply transistors ? and no vents for the power supply transformers ? what's up with that ? cost ? build it cheap as they can ? make it only last a fer years so people will buy the newer models ?

From looking at the photos of the breakdown of this projector, would anyone want to guess that the HDMI port is being effected by the heat from the power supply components ? or should that not have a effect on the HDMI port ? could the heat actually be melting the HDMI port or distort the HDMI delicate pins ?

The HDMI port is right above the large power capacitor, toroidal coil and not to far from the power supply transformer... wonder if that could be effecting the HDMI port on these projectors ?

For those contemplating a LCD/Plasma over this, like others say it really depends on what you're after, and day/night usage, light controlled environment etc, we already have a huge plasma and I was after portability and night time usage so it was perfect for me and I love it at night, at night I use it over the plasma anytime, but in the day the plasma wins for obvious reasons.

(I'm on the new firmware).

With those experiencing jerkiness in video playback, I have that too from USB, I'm not sure if it's because of the crap USB I'm using or if it's because of CPU limitations of the unit, or poor drivers, my guess though would be CPU/drivers rather than the USB.

With HDMI I do have the issue with it switching back to the Acer screen when I swap video applications around on the computer like go from 1 screen to the other or go full screen youtube video etc.
I've swapped over to VGA because 90% of the time I use the unit I plug and unplug all the cables (coz I travel around with it) and VGA is just easier and I don't have to worry about the HDMI socket getting damaged, and also because the swap back to the Acer screen is avoided which was annoying.

Last week just for s$@#s and giggles, I pointed the projector out the window onto the apartment building some distance away (the section without windows), I wasn't sure it'd reach it, let alone be able to see it with all the ambient lights, but lol, it made it to my surprise. I had to put the image vertical to fit the building but my guess is that it was about 55x30 meters or something along that size, obviously unwatchable coz of the super lack in brightness though.
I had it in standard video/game mode and could see the image and make out what it was ok but it was very very faint, for picture mode it was very little difference if at all noticable, user/custom mode was slightly brighter to about 65-70% brightness/contrast but going above that just white-washed everything and then couldn't make it out no more. But yeh it was rather surprising that it made it that distance lol.

I usually do a 90 or 100" projection (limit due to room dimensions I usually use it in) totally fine in eco mode with a substantial amount of ambient lighting.

I have had some focus issues lately though where after the lens heats up the focus goes slightly out (not really noticeable watching movies but switching back from a movie to text you'd spot it), but it's not a major concern, takes 2 seconds to refocus and it'll be fine.

Coretronic M/B Rev. A. 2011/06/17

Connectors External:
SD card, USB A, USB B, HDMI, VGA, Composite Video out, AV in, Audio out.
Internal:
Power, LED module, DLP, FAN 1, FAN 2, FAN 4, Speaker, IR, Light Sensor, Buttons.

Chips DLP:
DPP6401
AFE1000

SOC:
AM8201

Nand 16GB:
Samsung 116 K9GAG08U0E

DDR Ram 512mb:
HYNIX h5du5162etr-e3c

Video:
ADV7612

Audio:
PT2334

LED:
LT10

Lamp:
Blue: 53501
Red: 93969
Green: 65521

Etc.:
NUVOTON N79A901
DRV602
LW052A
TPS65145
K330 M/B B09 7C44

Maybe a projector repair guy would be able to put together an upgrade kit (lens assy, cooling kit) for the K330, he would be able to match parts from different makes of old projectors, or at least he would be able to advise what second hand old projector would be best suited for this upgrade.
Does anyone know of a different way to flash the firmware on this thing?
My faulty projector does not see the SD card.

Who ever would come up with a upgrade would have to find a larger case that would closely match the case of the Acer K330 case with more room to put in more cooling tubes, heat sinks, and isolate the power supply from the rest of the electrical components.
I have the LG HX-300 and it does not suffer from the heat from the power supply because it has a external power brick for it.
Would a lens up grade from a old bulb based projector work with a LED based projector ?
Maybe someone with a little more money could buy one of these used on Ebay and find some way to put one together so people can have a guide in how to upgrade the clone projectors.
Or should people just wait for the new batch of LED projectors coming out later this summer and fall ?
I know one thing ? if the price drops even farther on these clone projectors that would tempt me to buy one.
If some one were to take the innards of this projector and retrofit it to another case they would have to refit it like you would refit the ports on a computer case.
The whole for the lens on the front of the projector would have to fit.

I meant the ports on the back of this projector would have to be re-fitted as you would change the ports on the back of the computer case with a different mother board.
I remember my brother had this real to real 8 separate track tape recorder back in the 70s where you can pull out different circuit boards like you pull out memory on a computer mother board, or how you can pull out video cards or audio cards on a computer mother board.
It was built so it was modular so in case something went wrong in this tape recorder it could be replaced easy.

Unless you guys are interested in hacking these things for fun I recommend you wait. That's what I'm doing. There are new LED units coming this Summer and probably more in the Fall. However, if you're out to hack for the fun of it I can understand that.

For those of you stuck with a k330 or other clone for whatever reason, you might want to try an HDMI to VGA converter. I don't think the VGA port has the signal drop problem. This is the one I was thinking about buying:

http://www.amazon.com/Audio-Converte...2263611&sr=8-1

The same model is available on ebay for a couple dollars cheaper. I decided not to buy a converter. I'll wait 3-4 months and see what the market brings...

i just received my new Acer K330, and I'm struggling with a focus issue.

I bought this projector as a monitor replacement, to read a lot of text that would otherwise be a painful experience on my 12" laptop.
I've noticed that text in the bottom of the picture is in focus, while text in the upper part is slightly out of focus, even when the focus ring is adjusted w.r.t. the top part. When I first noticed this, I thought that it's not a big deal. but now I'm starting to get headaches because of this blurry text. do other owners of this projector suffer from similar problems?

also, did you notice that there is a user accessible grey ring that holds the front lens in place? apparently, the ring can be screwed off with a lens spanner (which I don't have). has anyone tried to screw it off and realign the front lens?

if i look into the aperture of the projector, the aperture has a bulge on one side, so it's not circular. do all projectors have this bulge? does anybody know what purpose this bulge serves?

thank you!

I had the Optoma ML500, which is a clone of yours and I could never get it sharp. My Optoma GT720 and acer h5360 is very sharp when it comes to a monitor. I give the edge to my GT720. These 500 lumen clones are not as sharp and have focus problems. Even tho my ML500 had a long lamp life, I needed something that was sharp and gave a bright image.

Hi all,

After reading for many hours on here and other places to find a projector that suits my budget i chose the K330.

I plan to use this with a netbook in a small room 12x9 and will be using vga connection as no hdmi on the netbook.

Can anyone give me an idea of the image quality i should expect.

I bought this projector for $584AUD from the US that is with shipping as the unit here is almost $1000 with out shipping.

I did consider the Benq GP2 but i was put off by the 200 lumens so i hope the extra brightness will be good and all goes well, will let you know when i get it set up.

I have used the projector briefly with my Asus 1005HA-H netbook and the image quality was OK. I think in this thread there is some mention about chromatic abberation and anti aliassing of text because of diamond pixels but I'd say the overal image is very usable. Also people said that the RGB input gives the best image quality. I wouldn't know since I haven't tried it with a computer that has HDMI yet.

Hi, I am living in a shared bedroom at college. I watch movies on a 24" LCD monitor with the brightness and contrast set to zero so the light doesn't keep my roommate awake. The monitor only casts a soft light into the room at these low settings.

I would like to buy an Acer K330 but I would like to know how dim it can go. If you turn the K330 brightness down is it fairly dim or would it still light up the whole room brightly?

Not sure if this just a scaling issue or a bad unit, but my acer k330 projects the menu text great, ie no blurriness, but when I watch video, the picture is blurry. It seems to be the same on the composit and hdmi inputs. I have tried differant cables, shorter runs, etc. This was a refurbished unit I bought from amazon. Has anybody heard of this issue with these projectors? Thanks

Good thing I waited it out on the clone projectors, the blurring/focus issues is a deal breaker for me.
Got buyer's remorse when I bought the LG-HX-300, never was satisfied with it.
We can only guess we will have to wait for eternity for the full HD 1080 P LED projectors with decent lumens.
Would the LED/LASER hybrids offer us so hope ? maybe ? maybe not ? Hope they some with better optics also and yes, people are willing to pay a little more for that if offered.. no more cheap plastic lens.

I sold my ML500, I won't buy another led projector unless its 1080p and gives me at least 700 lumens calibrated. The ML500 gave me 360 lumens. That might be acceptable for a 1080p led projector for movie watching in a dark theater, but not for anything else. Sports, video games, and other video that is not watched in darkness need twice that amount, especially something that's 720p and is not going to be used for high quality viewing

I have not tested the projector turned down in brightnes. I assume it is a rather simple thing to do, one could even put some filter in front of it.

I think the real problem will be the noise! This is definitely too loud to sleep next to (at least that is my opinion) although I suppose one could argue the noise is monotone and one gets used to it. I will try a quick turn down of brightness when I get home.

I got my K330 today. my unit is also suffering from dreadful signal drop issue on HDMI port... I am gutted...to say the least... whole piece looks a cheap chinese product ( which indeed it is ). I contacted technical support at Acer and they asked me to send the unit back to nearest Acer service centre for inspection. I got it from a third party at Amazon who seem bit reluctant to accept the returned unit... anyways, I have tried lot of different cables and none seems to resolve this issue....

I am currently working on testing a media player about which I am going to write a review. I have to admit that with this player I have had drop-outs as well. I have used it in combination with the WII for a whole weekend almost non stop and did not notice any drop-outs with the same cable. The only suggestion I can give try unplug and re-plug the cable and check if there is any devices that might interfere with the signal such as power cables, wireless devices, speakers etc.

On another note, I have played a bit with the brightness and contrast and I was able to completely black out my 80" screen. Just don't expect a good picture quality at such low brightness settings at 80" Perhaps on a smaller screen it is better.

On a last note, I bought this wifi adapter (http://www.ebay.nl/itm/ws/eBayISAPI....E:L:OU:NL:1123) and it did NOT work with this beamer. It has got the 3072 chipset. When I plug it in and select USB A, nothing happens.

for the benefit of those who are still wondering what this drop out issue is I have uploaded a video on youtube... you will see how acer logo appears when signal drops. it happened thrice in 2 minutes and then didnt happen for next 2 hours and then happened again :-|

I am not allowed to paste aN url currently so please search for acer k330 hdmi signal drop and you should be able to see the link...hopefully...

Here is the link: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8jx78H8bAIk

I found the problems for my dropouts, my media player has this deep color mode, 10 bit & 12 bit. When 12 bit is enabled, it gets distorted and drops regularly. When 10 is enabled it works OK.

I tried to get 24P playback to work with my media player but I was unsuccessful where my LG TV does register 24P. This might be because the media player does not detect 24P capability and therefore does not put it trough but I start to wonder what this True 24P mode is that is mentioned in the features. I am unsure what the difference should be, it displays proper on 1080P 60HZ (or I prefer to set it to 720P since it is closer to the native resolution) but I guess when they advertise with it, it should work :P.

Update. It's not the projector. I have been using an older dvd player and ota tuner. Hooked up to a PS3 and it looks great.

I have an Acer K330 and I really enjoy the cinematic picture quality on a 120” Elite brand matte-white screen in a totally darkened home theater room, but I have been bothered by HDMI signal dropouts also.
Determined to do as much as possible to watch an entire movie with no signal interruptions, I have found methods that seems to have eliminated the HDMI dropouts, so far.
I suspect that all the possible non-video digital data signals that can travel from connected components through the HDMI cable to the Acer are causing it to lose signal synch,
so turn off EVERY possible signal from the connected components except for the video stream information.
Try these steps in this order:

1. On the menu controls of any HDMI-connected device, turn off HDMI audio if you are getting all your audio through a separate sound system anyway
(of course, if you ARE using the Acer’s built-in speaker, then leave HDMI audio on). If you want to get HD audio to a receiver, then leave HDMI audio from the blu-ray player (or other source) set to "on" to hear audio through the sound system, it's just that I turned off the HDMI audio going out of the receiver directly to Acer K330's HDMI input.

2. Again, on the setup menu of any connected component, turn off any form of CEC (Consumer Electronics Control), different manufacturers have their own name for this.
CEC is known as: HDAVI Control, EZ-Sync, VIERA Link (Panasonic); Anynet+ (Samsung); Aquos Link (Sharp); BRAVIA Link and BRAVIA Sync (Sony), HDMI-CEC (Hitachi); Kuro Link (Pioneer); CE-Link and Regza Link (Toshiba); RIHD (Remote Interactive over HDMI) (Onkyo); RuncoLink (Runco International); SimpLink (LG); EasyLink (Philips); and NetCommand for HDMI (Mitsubishi) – Thank You WikiPedia for that list!
You won’t need CEC through the Acer K330, and I don’t know if it even works with the Acer remote; who cares . . . just control whatever device from its own remote control, which is surely a nicer remote anyway.

3. Turn off Deep Color mode on connected devices, and also set the Acer K330 to “limited color range” HDMI as well.

4. Turn off ARC (Audio Return Channel) if it’s an option on any connected devices. ARC sends digital audio from a display device back to a receiver or other component, I doubt that the Acer even supports ARC, so why not turn ARC off on any source to eliminate it from even possibly causing a signal dropout. I turned the ARC off on the HDMI output of my Yamaha RX-V371 receiver.

5. Setting the HDMI output of a connected device to 1080P 60Hz seems to work best.

In summary, just turn off any signal type going out over the HDMI cable to the Acer K330 that isn’t simply the video signal, that’s it.
I got this idea that maybe all the non-video HDMI signal data causes a problem because I have the DVI output of my Dvico TviX HD M4000P DVR connected to the HDMI 2 input of the Yamaha receiver (via a DVI-to-HDMI cable), then out of the receiver’s HDMI to the Acer, and I never had a signal drop from the TViX simpler DVI-based source.
The goal is to watch the Acer K330's beautiful HD LED DLP picture without aggravating signal interruptions !
Thank You, AVSForum users, without the knowledge contained in these posts, I never would have discovered these HD LED DLP projectors.

Good news for everyone in the UK. This one works:

150Mbps Wireless Wifi 11 N Usb Dongle Network Adapter WLAN 802.11 N

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.d...E:L:OC:NL:3160

£4.45

Tested it today. Unfortunately no audio support only image. Also, I tested it with my Samsung galaxy s2 and MobiView worked but equiview didn't. One needs root access for MirrorOp which I haven't. I will try equiview again once I have the ICS update.