Viewsonic PLED-W500 LED 1280x800 - Page 9

Nvidia does not list them. The 'Advanced timing' option in power strip is grayed out (maybe because it is the trial version).

Hello,

After little more than a month, my unit has started to not turn off. I emailed Viewsonic and tried their recommendations to no avail. Basically, when I first turn it on and it hasn't heated up yet or been used for very long, I can successfully turn it off. If I have it on for a normal session of movie watching or gaming I will not be able to turn it off. The projector acknowledges that I have pushed the power button and says "push power button again to shut down" or whatever it says, but when I give it that second push the message disappears and the machine stays on.

Any others having this problem with any of the clones?

Thanks

yes i have the same problem with my unit. i set the automatic shutdown time to 1 minute and that kinda works for me as a workaround.

Got a replacement for my Viewsonic Pled 500.
This one jas excellent colours .

@sidglide
glad you got it sorted

@snugglebuddies
I have the same problem, almost all of the time it will not shut off with the remote or power button, so I just flip the powerstrip switch. Although it will sometimes still work with the remote. I read in the Amazon reviews that other people had this problem also.

Well I see that many have trouble getting 3D working in 720p.

I have used 3D in 720p for about 6 months over HDMI without trouble. So I want to share my total solution for this.

First of all I use nvidida usb dongle simulator for use of any active shutter glasses.
Then spoofed with ACER inf. file.

Then following settings must be used for transfering 120hz 720p through ordinary 1.2/1.3 hdmi cable :

Horizontal pixels: 1280
Vertical lines: 720
Refresh rate (Hz): 120
Color depth (bpp): 32
Scan type: Progressive
Timing->Standard: CVT reduced blank

Important to use reduced blank because projector cannot handle ordinary timing. Though not any difference in picture.

BUT now we have the "attempt to run stereoscopic 3d in non-stereo display mode" red text showing even though 3D is all perfect. This is how we solved this one :

Download PE EXPLORER and install it, then open following file with it : "C:\\Program Files (x86)\\NVIDIA Corporation\\3D Vision\
vstres.dll"

Press "Resource Viewer\\Editor" and inside folder named bitmap search for file called 201 (201 is general error code). This bitmap has settings for fonts and colour + transparent background and we need to delete it, but we cant just delete, instead replacing with a blank bmp.

Download attached 201.bmp and save it.

Click "open" right next to replacement source and use downloaded 201.bmp.
Save the file nvstres.dll and overwrite original (or make backup first).
You may have to disable and enable stereoscopic for this to work.

Now voila you will not have the red text coming up any more and fully functional 3D 120hz through 720p and with custom active shutter glasses! And best of all it is over ordinary HDMI cable and not bulky modded DVI.

 

 

201.bmp 768k .bmp file
Edited by colmania - 1/6/13 at 2:16pm

Yes, I've done that and modded the red overlay text.

The problem I have, is getting it to work with Arcsoft's Total Media center 5 for 3D Blu-ray disc playback via HDMI.

Actually I've tried WinDVD from Corel and it works perfectly with newest Nvidia drivers.
Remember to untick the Nvidia PureVideo box before playback or else it stutters like crazy!

Can you guys post your LED calibration numbers you get from the service menu. I want to compare mine.

Mine are in the pic

Hi, little question: i have a Htpc with a radeon 5770 hooked via Hdmi to the pled w500. Now, when im watching Mkvs (720p 60hz) and the camera start to "scroll" it isn't smooth at all... it's kind of laggy!
Is there any way i can set the vga resolution to 720p 120hz? How? Anyway, do you guys think setting to 120hz will help with the image "stuttering"?
Let me tell you this one more time... i LOVE my Pj!

Well I was considering the 3D Fury 3D converter, but after seeing a post on another thread here where a user said it was going to cost him $95 to mail it back to Taiwan, I decided to pass.

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...3#post22054873

Instead I've ordered the VP3D1 from Viewsonic for $200 and a rebate for free DLP Link glasses if purchased by 6-30-2012.

http://static.highspeedbackbone.net/...112-063012.pdf

Have a look at this thread http://forums.nvidia.com/index.php?showtopic=227993

after getting it back with a cleared optical path i'm starting to get the same problem within a couple of weeks. at the moment there are 2 dust blobs in the light path leeding to white clouds on total black screen. till now the two clouds are barely visible in total black on total black screen. but complety defocussing the picture makes the dust evident. so i guess it will not be long till the dust gets visible in normal operation again. am i the only one with the problem? i dont understand this. i'm very cleanly with my apartment and do regular dedusting.
so my real question is, if some does a (maybe pictured) manual for disassembling the projector and cleaning it from the inside. i dont want to send the projector in every couple of months.

I'm experiencing the Power off issue... had to physically unplug the unit, wait then plug back in. I'm at 240 Lamp Hours. Did you guys return your units to fix, or just did the auto-off workaround?
What kind of screens are you guys using with this Projector? I bought a cheap 92" Accuscreen (Draper line) and it is only really usuable at night. Not sure if its the screen or projector, but even at Nighttime, the picture seems a bit washed especially in very dark screens. I am thinking its more of a screen issue, and was considering something with higher gain. Though it does seem awkward if my screen is more expensive than the projector (spent $399 on this one)

nah, isn't screen issue, i have ~70" da-lite 2.4 gain, smaller=brighter, but still looks crappy.

6,000:1 full on/off isn't that much! and i saw RBE(saw it on my Qumi too, going to sell both), i guess my lowest acceptable projector is something like Epson 3010

thanks Mayuu. Out of curiousity, what modes are you using, RGB or YUV, Gamma... etc?

This is my first projector, so i dont really have much experience in comparisons. Its both good and bad, to know that even if I upgrade my screen, its probably not going to be that much better. Was thinking about Draper M2500 or Da-Lite Pearlescent on an equivalent 92" screen, but if you are still unhappy with a smaller Da-Lite 70' Hi-Power its most likely the projector.
My problem is that the projected area seems washed out, like a faint white hue over all the colors regardless of brightness levels, blacks never get truly black....etc. I tried playing around with the color space settings (yuv / rgb), different modes... etc, but the black levels never got dark enough. Its particularly bothersome in very dark scenes.

Black levels seem to get much worse when Brightness is above '51' , but not so much of a difference on anything below that. Regardless of brightness value, i get that white hue over all the colors. I notice this even in a pitch black room

i also expeience the power off issue...i got it solved ..just go to the reset in menu and reset it to factory settings..
if it doesnt get work try out the firmware upgrade
i use white wall as a screen n am satisfid with the quality of picture. one may feel exagerating but i watch a 720p/1080p and even SDTV from Set top box
at 16:10 aspect ratio for movies and satisfied with the picture quality even at 144 inch diagonal from 180" distance from wall and SDTV at 4:3 110" .and 3d using NVIDIA 3d vision and Tridef software is treat to watch.As i did the acer EDID hack for 3d it killed my hdmi audio.for movie i use spalsh PRO EX 1.7.1 u can enhance picture quality just playing around settings in playback option.
Edited by ole2267 - 7/9/12 at 9:57am

How does this compare to a traditional projector? For reference, my last projector was a Mitsubishi HD1500u 1600-lumen 720p DLP model, which I really enjoyed:

http://www.projectorreviews.com/mitsubishi/hc1500/specifications-id1296.php

How would the PLED-W500 compare - would the colors/picture quality be worse/better/equal for movies? I'll be using it in a light-controlled room, so I'm not too worried about the lumen count.

It does OK. But there some things to keep in mind. The lense shifts as it heats up making it necessary to correct for focus every now and then. Also, it's not going to have any significant video processing in it and it's use is really intended for office setups or occasional powerpoints. I use it for traveling but I wouldn't recommend it for a stand in HT replacement or some similar situation. There are much better projectors to use for that even though you may pay about 600 more than what this is going for.

1100 hours atm and no major problems.

Earlier I mentioned that I could not get 1920x1200 working over HDMI, only over VGA. The problem was, I was trying to get it to work at 60Hz, like it would over VGA.

I found that it would work at 1920x1200 via HDMI if set to 45Hz when connected via the VP3D1 or 50Hz when connected directly.

So when gaming in 2D, I use the 1920x1200@45Hz, if the game supports it. I find that the text is much better. This is with the VP3D1 connected, which allows me to switch to a 1920x1080@24Hz resolution within the game to play in stereoscopic 3D using Nvidia's 3DTV Play if I want.

I also found that I could display a (17:9) 2048x1080@30Hz resolution with the VP3D1 connected.

Keep in mind that in order to achieve higher resolutions like these, you need a good video card and a high bandwidth HDMI cable.

Hi Guys,

Quick question to you guys, maybe somebody has experinced this aswell.

When i Connect my viewsonic pled-500 to my computer ( GPU: Radeon 7850 have tried this with 5850 aswell) all the advanced setting for Color management like Color, Hue , Saturation and Sharpness etc are unvisible.

I connect the PJ to my WD Live t and Bam these advanced settings showed up.

I would like to adjust this even when i am connected to the computer.

Let me know if somebody has experineced this and was able to troubleshoot the same.

Go into Catalyst Control Center. Under Display settings (i think under DVI or HDMI) , there is something called Pixel Format. You will lose the color options if its set the YUV 4:4:4 or 4:2:2. I have mine set to Limited RGB. Whatever you set, i think you need to match the Color Space setting on the PLED-W500. I played around with this a bunch and i think Limited RGB has the least black crush for me. I'd have to retest running straight into the Projector without going through my Denon HDMI receiver

Good to know, thanks. The biggest problem I see, other than the lens shift, is the shutdown bug that seems to require a factory reset every 120 hours or so. Mine will be showing up Wednesday; for the price, I can live with that. I'll be using it for traveling PPT & for HT. Anxious to fire up some movies on it

What's the general consensus for 3D on the PLED-W500? The 3D processing box & glasses are pricey ($400+ with a pair of glasses, add a couple other people and you've paid more than the projector cost!) and I'm not really that much into 3D. I like it for a movie now & then. I do like the fact that it's 3D-capable. Also, what's everyone using for settings for watching movies?

I have lg hw300g and i have the same problem , anyone know how to fix it?

Thanks.
Edited by kornel221 - 8/7/12 at 8:04am

On your PC, while attached to the projector, go into the advanced graphics driver options and look for 'pixel format'. Try setting it to YUV 4:2:0 (or may be called YCbCr 4:2:0 or something similar).

Got mine in today. I am on the fence about keeping it. Initial impressions:

Cons:
Not as "vibrant" as I'd like (combination of brightness/saturation)
Not quite as sharp as I'd like

Pros:
Tiny (and lightweight)
Fast boot time (~5 seconds)
Reasonably quiet (I guess it'd be loud if you hadn't owned a projector before)
Large screen size
Onboard speaker is way better than expected

My biggest complaint is that it isn't as vibrant as I'd like. I think it has to do with the brightness and saturation, but I'm not exactly sure. I can tweak the brightness, but then it blows out (and still doesn't look super bright); I can tweak the saturation, but then people start looking funny For comparison, my previous projector was a Mitsubishi HD1000u: (1500 lumens, 2500:1 constrast ratio, also 720p)

http://www.projectorcentral.com/Mitsubishi-HD1000U.htm

The Viewsonic site says that LED lumens are perceived as 2.5x to the human eye, so I should be seeing around 1250 lumens in theory (for reference, my testing was done on a white wall with a WDTV Live Streaming network media player). The PLED-W500 definitely has better contrast for lighter scenes. "Bolt" usually blows out the whites on the dog's fur, but it did a good job keeping up. Black/dark sequences were a bit of a struggle until I tweaked the settings. Seems to struggle a bit on the really dark scenes though (ex. Bourne movies). Mostly, as far as the vibrance or brilliance thing goes, it almost looks like it's being shot through a piece of tinted glass - like when you look out the car window on a sunny day and you know it's bright, but it's being darkened. Like the vibrance has been sucked out of it a bit.

My assumption is that this mostly has to do with the 500 lumen count. However, in some shots, it seems plenty bright. For example, when the blue Viewsonic logo with the birds first appears, it looks plenty bright. In some shots, like in the flying scenes in "How to Train your Dragon", it looks well-lit. The saturation of the colors just doesn't "pop" like my old bulb-based DLP did (and this is testing in a light-controlled, pitch-black room). I'll try my laptop and a Bluray player and see if perhaps I can get a different amount of brightness out some other way (spent awhile tweaking the projector settings with limited success). Mostly I suspect this is due to the low lumen count. It should really just be a lot more vibrant, especially the stuff like How to Train your Dragon (but then again, it is a business-travel projector, and it's already doing more than I anticipated!).

The second, and lesser, complaint is that the sharpness is like a hair off. It's like when you get your eyes tested and it's one lens click before they nail your prescription (if you wear glasses). However, I mostly only notice it for text - movies seem fine for the most part. So a little soft but not terribly soft.

It does blow up well. The largest I could go in my room was 190" and it looked pretty good there. It is somewhat annoying not having a zoom on the lens, but it's so small and light that it's not really a big deal. I also really like the auto-keystone feature (worked out of the box); that made it easy for repositioning and not having to tweak it. The onboard speaker was surprisingly good; much better than my laptop speakers. I didn't mind the fan noise - it's a projector, it has to blow hot air out. Is it somewhat "loud"? Sure. Not as bad as my last projector, and I couldn't hear the fans over even the onboard speaker.

I really like the fast bootup time. 5 or 6 seconds to a screen. Super awesome. Wish it had more vibrance - more zing/color pop. Very mild softness is no biggie. I'll play around with it some more. I'm on the fence about keeping it because of the brightness issue...it's going to live in a light-controlled room when I'm not using it for presentations and I was hoping for a wee bit more of a "pop" with the picture. If I remember, I'll follow up in a couple days after some more testing.
Edited by Kaido - 8/8/12 at 7:18pm

So far, it is doing really well for live-action film. People look very natural. However, CGI stuff looks desaturated or kind of washed out (cartoons like Monsters, Inc.). Not bad, just no "pop". Live film has a much more natural look to it. The best I've been able to tweak the colors to so far is that it kind of looks like it does when you are outside on a sunny day - a bit bright, a bit washed out, but clear. Here are some screenshots from my iPhone cropped down (screen was a bit angled to get the size smaller for testing); shooting about 60" onto a white wall (ignore the horizontal dark marks, they're from the wall that's about to be painted, not the projector). The focus on the phone in the dark isn't great, but hopefully it'll give you an idea for contrast:

Shot of the clouds in Ironman. Lots of nice contrast. Usually whites blow out easily on my other projectors:



African-American skintones - another difficult area for projectors with the subtle gradients. Some of the best contrast I've seen:



Indy on 4:3 DVD:



Looking mean:



Lots of contrast detail:



Really nice skintones: (actual image is sharper than what my cell phone can take)



Has a nice, natural film-look to it: (again, my cell cam can't pick up all the contrast, his suit had different shades in it)



Working out with Monsters, Inc.: (good contrast but no "pop")



I was comparing it side-by-side with my 60" Mitsubishi DLP RPTV, which I absolutely love. I think the Pioneer Kuro has the edge for CGI stuff due to it's brightness, but so far the Mitsu RP DLP is the best I've seen for skintones. However, this LED projector is giving it a run for the money - while it doesn't have the brightness that the TV has, it does have even better contrast, as you can see in the African-American skintone & cloud shots above. Captures a lot of subtle detail there. It also does a good job of not blowing out the highlights - there were a few scenes that went all-white, but rarely. My HD1000u projector had that issue.

So anyway, take those for what they are - cell phone screenshots on a white wall. If you watch primarily cartoons & CGI, I wouldn't suggest this projector. If you watch mostly live-action stuff, then it's pretty good. I watch a mix. I love CGI, but I also watch a lot of film-films. I gotta get my Light Fusion screen painted up pronto and see how it looks on that!

Thanks for answer but i I can only choose between:


RGB 4:4:4 Pixel Format Studio (Limited RGB)
RGB 4:4:4 Pixel Format PC Standard (Full RGB)

My ati is 5830 and have the last catayst driver is 12.6

Thanks.
Edited by kornel221 - 8/9/12 at 4:25am

Thanks a lot for the information.
I am going to buy one of the clones (w500, k330, ...) in the comings days and I'd like to choose the best one for PC 3d gaming.
I do not know if the other clones can do the same thing.

Did you also tried the VGA hack with the EDID file that makes the PC think that the projector is a nvidia 3Dready projector?
If yes, could you tell us if the image quality using HDMI is much better than when using with VGA? (As the other clones may not be able to do 720p 3d over HDMI like this one).


Rugrash,
as you have tried both HDMI in 3D and VGA in 3D, do you think image quality was better on HDMI (as according to more recent posts you managed to mode the red overlay text ) than on VGA ?
Edited by Tehen - 9/7/12 at 6:25am

It seems to be possible using VGA according to other posts on forums (sorry I do not have the link) but I do not know for HDMI.