Originally Posted by PassingInterest
I've come full-circle, back to the Min-Wax Oil Modified Water Based Polyurethane and hope to be done with these two cabinets within the next few days.
The EM-6000 WB Lacquer that I applied from a new can had a curing problem.
I don't know if the product was to blame or if it really needed the 110 degree summer heat to speed the curing process. But, long after it should have cured sufficiently, I could not polish it, because it was too soft to polish.
Next, I thought I'd try a water-based 2-part finish, but I got a lot of crazing (cracking). That might not be the fault of the product. It was old and though I got fresh hardener for it from the manufacturer, part of it was still old. Plus, it was too thick to spray, so I added some water to thin it. Probably a bad idea. I intend to experiment further sometime with the 2-part water based finishes, since they offer the promise of being fully cured overnight.
Since I had some problems with finishes I hadn't tried before, I now have a new rule--I will try new finish materials only on small
I should have some updates soon.
I'm not a big fan of waterborne lacquers. I realize they are specified for most KCMA jobs, but I find them difficult to spray and sand. As far as finished appearance is concerned I find them to lack the depth of most solvent borne coatings. To me they just have a slightly blushed look about them. Some things I would be cognizant of when spraying them are relative humidity and surface/air temperature. They dry via solvent evaporation (in this case water) so anything impairing their ability to evaporate can lead to solvent entrapment which could lead to the inability to fully cure.
Without knowing the compatibility of the two products it is not impossible your 2 part system re-wet your WB lacquer system. That could lead to cracking, wrinkling, lifting, etc. If I were to guess based on what you've said I would vote for this being the culprit of the problem. Commonly I will see this when someone topcoats say alkyd with lacquer, poly with epoxies, or any other system in which the top coat solvent is "hotter" than that of the basecoat causing it to fail in one fashion or another.
Hopefully that gives you some insight as to what may have caused the problems. Mind you I don't work with either of these two products specifically, but these are problems inherent with the types of coatings you used.